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Old 08-05-2012, 07:35 AM   #31
Twin-shocker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC View Post
There aren't really any problems with fibertanks over here, only due to vibration.

There might be some marine coating I can use. Epoxy can get thick too, it that even matters.

There is I think a French made marine epoxy which has been designed to work with Efuels, and this might work better as a sealer than the very thin products such as Caswells which seem to have been diluted 50-60% over the base epoxy resin used simply to increase profits.

Way to seal a tank is to start with a relatively thick epoxy and thin this down using heat, and apply to inside of your tank while its still thin enough to cover properly. If you do 2 applications this way then you will have a much better hope of avoiding the problems which would result by using something like Caswell.

I will find details of the French resin and post them later. Also worth checking if the super unleaded fuel you can get in Denmark is ethanol free (some of that sold here in the UK has no ethanol).
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:27 AM   #32
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There is a british product called sureseal, that claims to be able to withstand ethanol.

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Old 08-05-2012, 09:55 AM   #33
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The "Sureseal" stuff is along the same lines as Caswell..............far too thin to provide much likelihood of long term success, and like Caswell doesnt come with proper application instructions of any kind.

You need to be looking at a high viscosity novalac epoxy resin, which you will need to thin using heat to apply, and ideally post cure at elevated temperature for a few hours to ensure 100% cure.

Discounting the silly micky mouse tank sealers on the market currently these are the type of products which would be likely to work as tank sealers: http://www.coatingandlining.co.uk/products
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:28 AM   #34
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I see.... Thinking of bailing out and going stock seat/tank, still with clipons, rearsets etc.

Could look awesome and I would still have the capacity to carry panniers.
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:53 AM   #35
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There are a few sources of ethanol proof GRP tanks in the US, but you might be better sticking with stock as I dont think even the US tanks come with any sort of guarantee.
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:41 PM   #36
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You can use Kreem the original one from Germany, works too. Is resistand at least to our E5 and E10 fuel.

http://www.tanksiegel.de/

(Don't use the "Kreem Complete Petrol/Gas Fuel Sealer Kit" which comes from the US, this is a plagiarism product witch has a lousy quality and is a lot cheaper too.)

And you will use the cleaner first which is very agressive and will "dissolve" the surface of the resin so the surface got rough, as rougher the surface as better the sealant will connect with the resin of the fiberglas. People that are complaining of chipping paint often haven't roughen the surface enough, a real task with gas tanks made of fiberglas. Used it for my glasfiber tank too, no problem so far ... (pic possible if desired, (warning a real gleamy item))
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:22 AM   #37
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Thats interesting............is that product based on a novalac epoxy resin? One of the main reasons for sealer failure, is lack of adhesion due to rather silly micky mouse application instructions from producers such as Caswell, which will mean the inside of a tank will following prep still be too slick for the sealer to adhere properly.

If that German product has something which eats into the surface of the GRP, then I would guess chances of it working long term are maybe increased 100% over the US made sealers, where I would guess any prep materials which actually work are probably going to be banned, probably on greenwash grounds.
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:25 PM   #38
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I just used a product named RED KOTE on my Suz tank and so far so good.
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:12 AM   #39
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It has been a long time since I made an update, as I can only work on the bike in the weekends. Yesterday I got myself some larger diameter heat shrink, which I will use as a hose for the main loom up the frame, in combination with the spiral band I have. Got a new phone, so I'll be testing the camera too.

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Old 08-22-2012, 08:31 AM   #40
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My wallet fell to progress!

Split the cases, great first experience.

Crank is dead, so is the clutch bushing/spacer.

Ordered an overhauled crank via eBay at next to nothing, seals, bearings etc. is also on the way. With great luck most of the parts will be here friday :)
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:03 AM   #41
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Oh yeah, rearsets too!

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Old 08-24-2012, 08:42 AM   #42
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Nice start.... you're hooked now.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:46 AM   #43
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Thanks :)

Clipons and various rubber bits just got through the door today. So I will be tinkering tonight. Parts for the engine will arrive next week. So next weekend I will be putting the engine back together.
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:43 AM   #44
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Silhouette of the bike.

The objective now is finishing the motor and the last electrics.

Paint and wheels will be done at a later point. Want to see if I can get some miles on her, before I tear her apart for paint etc.
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:25 AM   #45
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Looking good!

What rearsets did you end up with?

yeah edit: going to go ahead and guess moto carerra.
I'm in the market. Haven't done any research.
What have you learned, ie. why MC rearsets?

I thought I read somewhere about using old FZR rearsets and modifying them somehow....
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