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Old 08-07-2014, 10:24 AM   #1501
Twotaildog
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This is turning into my favorite ride report.

Kevin

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Old 08-07-2014, 11:25 AM   #1502
rtwpaul OP
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Originally Posted by Twotaildog View Post
This is turning into my favorite ride report.

Kevin

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thanks Kevin, there is a lot more to come, hellava lot more
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:58 PM   #1503
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200 lbs of security was caged so i could get to my bike



i said goodbye to Tima and headed out to meet the day and what it would bring me



people are super friendly again



as i ride with the mountains to my left i know right behind them is Kyrgyzstan waiting for me




you see these signs everywhere Kazakstan 2050 but it seems all the money os being spent in the cities and nothing in the outer areas besides these billboards reminding people where their money is going



getting to the KZ/ KG border the line is long and i play the ignorant tourist and ride to the front, and i am let in and ushered thru, i was guided by English speaking border agents and the exit was relativity simple and took maybe 15 minutes




the Kyrgyzstan border crossing was actually fun, i was told to go to a building off to the right, i entered and inside there were about 15 people working or waiting...paperwork needed to be filed out but the paperwork was in Russian and Kyrg, so between the 15 people they translated each word and we were laughing and joking as we went, everybody in line stopped doing there own paperwork and joined in the fun

when the paperwork was complete, i was told to go to passport control, this is the building looking back, i was told not to get off my bike i handed my passport across and the guard went and stood in line for me and came out a few minutes later handed me my passport and told me i'm done...now thats what i call an easy border crossing



i'd arranged to me a local american guy who'd lived here for 8 years and he took me thru the city and led me to Memo's place, avoiding all the streets where motorcycles aren't allowed to be


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Old 08-07-2014, 02:12 PM   #1504
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Awesome update Paul, looking forward to more!!
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:04 PM   #1505
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"the Kyrgyzstan border crossing was actually fun"

Don't think I've ever seen that in a ride report before. Great update!
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:18 PM   #1506
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A border agent stood in line for me,now the is what I call a civil servant.
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:03 PM   #1507
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"the Kyrgyzstan border crossing was actually fun"

Don't think I've ever seen that in a ride report before. Great update!
it was just a really funny situation, everybody in the room was laughing and joking, all borders should be there, as i was leaving they all thanked me for coming to there country, instantly you get a good feeling about a place...its the simple things you remember when you travel

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A border agent stood in line for me,now the is what I call a civil servant.
don't know if its protocol but it sure worked for me, cause he could push in line without being shouted at
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:25 PM   #1508
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i'm woken in the morning and told breakfast is ready



outside Sambor's group are trying to get ready for their tour but one bike isn't running properly, so while the bike is looked at by one of the group who's a BMW motorcycle mechanic the others double check their rotes




eventually Sambor has had enough and tells the group to take his bike and he'll meet them later "me and Paul will fix it" they laugh because there super BMW mechanic can't fix it so what shot have we got!!! Oh yee Poles of little faith and knowledge of who Sambor and i really are



so later we head to Ali's little motorcycle repair shop as he asked sambor and i to come by and listen to an Africa Twin, he really doesn't want to tear into it as the owner admitted he rode it for about 1 hour with no oil but thought he had an electrical problem so added oil!!! We agree there is no other option but to open the motor

a lot of adventurers have been helped right here with simple tools and good fundamental knowledge





Sambor tells me he's owned eight AT's in the past and loves them but now they aren't made anymore he wondered about building one by buying every new part from the Honda dealer as they are all still available somewhere...so one long Polish winter he sat down and priced it all up before making the first order, the total came to around $100,000...so he scratched that i dea and bought a KTM 640 adventure



our trip there was two fold we actually knew there was another drz400 in town and Sambor had got a call about shipping it to Poland for the owner, if you don't know he owns www.advfactory.com and he ships bikes worldwide and does tours in some really unique and exotic locations...if you don't have the time like me, you should check out his site, he just came back with a group from, Afganistan, prior to that he was in Bhutan, next week he's off to the Himalayas

so we drove thru town and we found the drz, got it and went in, with a little research and a few questions asked on here in the drz thread and to gunnerbuck and motolab between us we covered all options and the only thing that was left was a bad stator...a swap was done and a running bike was made





the yellow one in the back is the bad patient who looks like it died and has a death shroud over it...the bike is fixed and running good
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Old 08-08-2014, 04:46 AM   #1509
mtbbker
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Glad you got that DRZ running
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:27 PM   #1510
rtwpaul OP
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decided after talking with Mac to meet up in the morning and ride into the mountains, Sambor was going to go ahead very early to catch his guys and then we would find him at a yurt camp, so the night beofre a few Italian guys were at Memos heading to Tajikistan in the morning so we decided to head out into the city and walk around for a while...its the little things that you notice that the locals just don't see













one of the Italian guys who'll remain nameless for his own safety from his girlfriend had quit smoking a few months back...temptation got the better of him and he enjoyed undeniable pleasure which then it turned into undeniable guilt





the morning arrived and Mac came to meet me...it was now time to head into the mountains and find out why Sambor1965 has been coming here every year for the last 21 years...

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Old 08-09-2014, 01:56 PM   #1511
Lupin 3rd
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Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
so we drove thru town and we found the drz, got it and went in, with a little research and a few questions asked on here in the drz thread and to gunnerbuck and motolab between us we covered all options and the only thing that was left was a bad stator...a swap was done and a running bike was made




the yellow one in the back is the bad patient who looks like it died and has a death shroud over it...the bike is fixed and running good
Heh it's a small world out there, looks like the 'donor' bike is Wesley's!

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Old 08-09-2014, 07:01 PM   #1512
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to be honest i'm not moving that quick, the days i ride here have been around 400k +/- which for me is a lot, i really like to ride shorter distances, leave late arrive early...

i posted a bunch over the last few days as i've been in Ulan Ude now for four days, i have found a problems with my bike relating to the roads so just posted when i got to work on my own stuff

i can definitely soak it in, i have Mr.Kim riding with me and i have changed his out look to travel, most koreans have a very set tight schedule and don't deviate at all, he decided to ride with me, its funny how much enjoyment you can also get seeing someone experience things he could never have imagined

Odometer, well i don't have one!!! my electrics fried it a few days before i left vegas so i had to do a total rewire, so i am running everything off my GPS, problem is it added my flying miles and multiple ferry trips to the total (i zeroed the morning i left) so i have to go and calculate it all i'll let you know...but when you look at a russian map it doesn't seem too far at all, and europe seems a lifetime away as i meet more and more people coming in from Mongolia telling me how bad the terrain is this year cause of the heavy rains...one guy told me last night 200k in two days on one road riding 14 hours per day, wrap your head around that

as for posting here, its strange i did it for a solid memory and hundreds of views per day but minimal comments as i don't come from a large riding group like a lot of riders do, my backround is in such a different part of the motorcycle world so far removed from adventure travel it makes me wonder, so some days i wonder if its worth it as comments and interaction are at a minimum

strange and weird things happen daily, you just can't post everything and somethings you just keep for yourself
Just discovered your Road Report today and have spent the last few hours reading up to this point. It is worth the time and effort you are putting into these posts to educate, entertain and inspire others. You have a long road ahead of you and plenty of time to build fans, like me.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:13 PM   #1513
rtwpaul OP
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Heh it's a small world out there, looks like the 'donor' bike is Wesley's!
yeah it was pure coincidence, as we are working on Sambor's bike he gets a call from Wesley asking about shipping his bike from Bishkek to Poland...Sambor looks up from the phone, "i have a donor bike", on the way to collect it he contacted a friend in Poland to get a new stator for Wesley so he can be riding the same day...so small world yes indeed
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:23 PM   #1514
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Riding with "Mac" a guy i contacted thru HU our plan was simple, find Sambor...but in reality not so simple as the directions to where he 'maybe' were vague at best, we knew he was somewhere up a dirt road



so we rode blacktop for half the day, stopping for gas and food and trying to avoid being stopped by the cops who WILL stop you for 1km over the limit and ticket you







the heavens opened and we took cover under some trees and Mac donned his rain gear



the rain only lasted a few minutes but it was intense, we headed to Kochkor and filled up and then looked for the turn off to Song-Kul lake and the dirt








the track went over 70k's twisting and turning up the mountainside and topped out at 11,250 feet




then disaster struck...my camera stopped working with a god awful grinding noise and the lens stuck, i played with it trying to help it retract and it did, the next photo op and it opened and wouldn't focus...seriously, it couldn't wait a few days for me to get back to Bishkek

we rode on, and with our directions from Sambor he said get to the summit, then ride about 20k's then ask some one for CGT, or did he say, CTG, CBT, BCT...we'd forgotten but he thought there'd be a sign and he told us we'd see his bike

we found the lake and saw yurts in the distance, Mac speaks fluent Russian so he was asking anyone and everyone, each one knew where we meant but as usual pointed in different directions...i had no camera and missed some amazing photos of his interactions with the local mountain people

it was at this point i felt myself hurting for a photo fix i was like a crack addict looking for the next hit...i needed to get a shot and there weren't any dealers around!!!

eventually we found him, 10k's off the dirt road way over the horizon and yes we could see his bike but only from a few hundred yards, as i got off my bike and tried the camera again and it was dead, completely except for a bad grinding sign...i put my bike keys in my pocket and there was my phone...hey camera, kind of...so from here on out bear with me for photo quality until the replacement is bought, which will be very soon



so priorities first go use the facilities, probably the most scenic shitter in the world and consider throwing you camera down the hole



i didn't i came back to the yurt and we sat down and i told them let me see if i can fix my camera, now if you have read more than a few pages you know i can fix things, but all i needed was a jewlers phillips head screw driver, and Mac pulls one out of his pocket....GOING IN!!!



i found the drive motor was warn out on the gears that push the lens in and out, it was done, the Lumix would live the rest of the days on the steppe

Ok, so lets see what a camera phone can do with some of the most amazing scenery available to practice with...this will give you a taster



we had food and settled into the yurt for the night and the sun went down the temperature dropped below zero almost immediately, it was going to be a long cold night
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:41 AM   #1515
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the sun rises and i check the temp on my bike, its -10C or 14F and thru the night it rained off and on, looking to mountains there is a new dusting of snow...for reference it August 4th and we are about the same longitude as New York City

there's a donkey tied up far away from everyone and everything, i joke with Sambor he must be a bad donkey and he told me he was and still is, last year when he was here they cooked a sheep for mutton stew and every since his best friend went missing he cries at night so they tie him up far enough away so he doesn't keep anyone awake



we stall to leave so it can warm up a little, well at least get into positive numbers

the road away from the lake takes us up to the top of a pass (it has a Kyrg name which translates to 32 switchbacks) and the drop in front of us goes down over 1000 meters in 2k, as you ride down each turn reveals a little more track that wasn't visible from the top




at the bottom the river that cut thru and created this valley is flowing by at full speed



sambor has groups of riders that come here from Poland to ride and he sets out routes for them...but for himself he saves the best routes and keeps them quiet and only for the select few, we are in now heading to so hidden valleys, that tracks are sometimes hard to see or find and not on maps or GPS...we ride for hours in and out of canyons and over mountains and al my GPS showed was a blank screen







we find a small farm house in the middle of nowhere and a canyon close by that looks like a good ride and ask the farmer who is also a guide if we can get thru somehow, he points to an uphill track and tells us the river for that canyon starts over there, so we ride to see, Mac stays put and Sambor and i go and check out our options, steep climbs on sandy tracks take us up and over a mountain and down to the river on the far side, the drop to the river bed is about 20-30 feet and the river is flowing fast and strong, so its a no go, Sambor tells me he'll be back next year with a smaller lighter bike and later in the season and try and find a way thru




we ride back on a different foot path and head to the river to try and find a different canyon to get thru



again tracks that are only just visible that locals have made show us a direction




a small single track leads up and over a mountain and behind is the track we used to get to our high point



the rest of the day we find remote tracks and roads and each horizons shows another amazing vista, i get the shakes as i need my camera fix each time i reach for the cell phone





the sun drops behind the mountains and we need to find a camping spot, some local fishermen who are four brothers tell us about a good area, they come and join us, make us dinner and a fire...the night is full of stories of that big one that got a way and they like all fishermen use there hands to show the size as the other just laugh at the exaggeration


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