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Old 01-21-2014, 10:33 AM   #496
Saralou
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Location: July 22, 2012 start RTW from Vancouver, B.C.
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hello

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Originally Posted by romafras View Post
Great meeting you in El Calafate. Keep us posted on your progress.
Cheers.
Yes and Likewise. We have sketchy internet here in El Chelten, but I will forward the info to Mateo. Funny I got your blog post in my email shortly after we met you at the gas station. Thanks for the picture! We have you down to contact before we head north again to pump you for info. Cheers.

Sara & Daniel
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:12 PM   #497
Saralou
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Ruta 40

The day started with almost no line at the gas station unlike yesterday, a bit cool at 13 degrees, but sunny.


san carlos de bariloche 52 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


san carlos de bariloche 53 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

There was almost no wind today and when there was it was 80% at our back!!! We kept south until Esquel and got gas again with almost no line. The old ruta 40 goes south from here but reports of very bad road conditions there kept us south on the “ruta 40” to Gobernador Costa, Chubut Province at 444 km where there was finally a hotel and a very long line for gas.


Screen Shot 2014-01-15 at 4.29.26 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


FILE1006 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


FILE1013 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


Setting out early we were braced for wind and gravel today. About 100 km south there is about 5 km of gravel that is a bit deeper in spots, but no real issue. The Desvio near Rio Mayo is good road but can be tricky when the wind is gusting, the gravel is deeper, and there is oncoming traffic. We were glad to see it was only about 40 km and not the entire 135 we had left to get to Perito Moreno.


Screen Shot 2014-01-15 at 4.35.25 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


FILE1021 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

We met these three Argentinean guys on the gravel driving with street tires!


DSC00442 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

The last 60 km the wind was WOW strong. It was pressing our helmets so hard on one side it was painful. The shelter at the gas station was just enough to keep the bikes from being blown over on the stands. Luckily the hotel had 1 room left and a courtyard to store the bikes. Walking down the street to the laundry was even a challenge.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:34 AM   #498
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Very nice report !! Enjoy your trip, it's very cold up here in the states.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:50 AM   #499
Saralou
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cold up north

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Originally Posted by sarelp View Post
Very nice report !! Enjoy your trip, it's very cold up here in the states.
Thanks. We met some Germans today who turned back from Ushuaia at Punta Arenas about 350 km away because of the cold. We are glad we splurged on heated jackets.


Sara
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:52 AM   #500
Saralou
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Fitz Roy

We have had a 2 -year friendship with Clive from Toronto, but we have yet to meet outside of skype. He is one of those guys who knows everyone. He has been very helpful with places to stay and his friend in Argentina brokered the almost impossible to get mandatory bike insurance for us. He of course has a connection in Ushuaia who is a biker who will store our bikes for 2 weeks. He is headed north to la Falda from Ushuaia so the only place we can meet him before he heads out of South America is to go east to the 3 on a bit of a detour.


Screen Shot 2014-01-15 at 4.39.27 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

On the way to Fitz Roy we had a nice sunny day with the wind at our backs. We spotted several herds of Vicuna (a wild relative of the llama) and several flocks of flightless Rhea. We also came across a few gauchos out on the range.


FILE1033 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


DSC00448 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


DSC00453 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


DSC00458 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


DSC00460 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


FILE1136 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


Dan trying to get the picture involves some off roading.


FILE1072 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


FILE1109 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr




They have the funniest sign here stating the obvious. At the bottom of every hill the sign says hill and at the top “you guessed it” it says down hill!


FILE1150 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


Since we left on our adventure on June 22, 2012 everyday people have been asking us where we are going. When we say Ushuaia the reply is always “ Wow that is a very long way”’ but today at the YPF when I answered the gas attendants question his reply was “ you are almost there!”


DSC00461 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

Arriving in Fitz Roy after 310 km we did find the 2 places to stay listed on base camp and opted for the one on the north side of town as it looked better and was a block from the only restaurant in town. Clive had a lot longer ride from El Califate and finally showed up at 7 pm. After a good dinner, lots of great stories, and 3 bottles of wine we did not get and early start in the morning.


DSC00465 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


DSC00466 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:07 AM   #501
Saralou
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Peurto Julian

Heading south on the 3 we again had almost no gusting wind issues. There were more problems with drivers passing too close on our left so you get sucked over towards them when the wind is blocked. There were again tons of Vicuna and Rhea on the side of the road. It’s funny on the isolated parts of the 40 we saw no wildlife, but here they are everywhere.


Screen Shot 2014-01-16 at 5.25.24 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

The next town south is Puerto San Julian, which has been visited by Magellan in 1520, Drake in 1578, and Darwin on the Beagle with Captain Fit Roy in 1834. It is a huge natural harbor. It was strategic in the 1982 Falkland’s war as it is one of the nearest points of land to the islands and was used as a base by the Argentine Air Force. On the waterfront there is a replica of Magellan’s ship the Victoria, which was the first to circumnavigate the earth.


Screen Shot 2014-01-16 at 5.27.51 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


Screen Shot 2014-01-16 at 5.28.10 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


DSC00471 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


DSC00468 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

Now for a good Argentinean steak for lunch.


DSC00472 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

Having a siesta late in the afternoon we heard a bike start up outside. Dan says “ that’s an 800!” He looked out and sure enough it was a bike from Ontario. Daniel went outside to say hi. As he walked up to the guy he said “ Hi Dan”! Daniel was looking very confused when Wei replied, “ I know Sara”. It is so funny how you meet people by pure chance. Wei had been to two places already where there were no rooms, and he drove further into town and ended up meeting us! If you want great advice on where to eat and what to order check out his blog.



DSC00473 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:08 AM   #502
Saralou
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Rio Gallegos

We were making for El Calafate and decided with the wind getting stronger today we would go on the paved road and not the 230 km of gravel of the highway 9. The first stage was to go south to Rio Gallegos.


rio gellagos 1 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

There are several spots on the way where you can see flamingos and other birds. The wind was again not too bad today, strong but not gusting. There were a few sprinkles of rain as well. We were very thankful for our heated jackets today, as the temperature was 10 degrees.


rio gellagos 2 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


rio gellagos 3 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

The big thing of the day however was seeing the first road sign to Ushuaia!



rio gellagos 5 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

We saw a ton of bikes today, but not as many as at the first gas station in town. The rain really started by 4, but we were tucked into a small hotel by then.


rio gellagos 7 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:09 AM   #503
Saralou
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El Calafate

Getting up the next morning the wind was already stronger than yesterday. The first 80 km west it was strong, but not gusting. Most of the way it was manageable. There was only the last 45 km to El Calafate where it vas very strong, but with minimal gusting.


el calafate 1 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calefate 4 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

They have these silly wind blown palm tree signs here. Like Wei said, “ There are not even trees here let alone palm trees!”



el calefate 2 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

Stopping halfway at the only gas station where there was a pretty long line, but at least there was gas unlike when Trevor was here.



el calafate 2 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


There was again a lot of bike today heading east and south to Ushuaia.



el calafate 5 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


There is an amazing view spot of the glacial Lake Argentinio on the way into the city.



el calafate 6 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 7 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

We have a great view from our place as well.


el calafate 14 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

On the way into town for lunch we stopped for gas and I spotted a KTM with a British Colombia plate. It was actually Roberto and his friend Mateo from Italy. I have actually followed their blog as well.


el calafate 12 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


http://mototravellers.com/first-segm...und-the-world/


We had diner at a place recommended by Wei and enjoyed some great lamb and steak Daniel’s favorite Argentinean wine.


el calafate 19 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 18 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

One of the things we have been looking forward to since we left home was seeing the glacier at Perito Moreno. It is a 80 km drive from town along several lakes and snow topped mountains.



el calafate 22 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 25 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

You hit the gate to the national park about 30 km before the glacier.


el calafate 23 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

There are several view spots along the way, but save your battery in the cold for the viewing decks.


el calafate 26 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 30 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 31 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


The glacier is 5 km wide at the end and 14 km long.



el calafate 55 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

We did not have a great day with clouds and some rain, but it was still spectacular. The cracking of the ice preceded large pieces falling off. With huge booms when they hit the water.


el calafate 37 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 38 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 45 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 48 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 40 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


On the way back we headed to the port at Punta Bandera to check it out. WOW was there some wind there! You could barely stand up.



el calafate 64 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el calafate 63 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:58 PM   #504
sarelp
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What is the average temperature down there ? it looks pretty cold for the middle of summer. The food looks pretty awesome.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:16 PM   #505
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Hey you two hooligans, awesome awesome photos and no more steak shots Dan .....I almost drowned in my own slobber

We are in snowy Peru still enjoying pork that is so thin it only has one side

Love to you both

Andi & Ellen
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:48 PM   #506
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Awesome pics! Glad you liked the recommendations so far. Thanks for the shoutout and link to my outdated blog site. Gives me real incentive to write/post quickly when I have the time (i.e. when I get home).

I didn't need heated gear but did have good layers and timed the weather well.

I'm heading into Uruguay tomorrow. Hope the ride to Ushuaia was good and say Hi to Flo for me!
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:05 PM   #507
Saralou
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temp

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Originally Posted by sarelp View Post
What is the average temperature down there ? it looks pretty cold for the middle of summer. The food looks pretty awesome.
I think the average in summer is about 10. We had a very cold 5 degrees back from Chelten, but a balmy 18 today as we rode to Rio Grande!

Sara
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:13 PM   #508
Saralou
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ahhh peru

Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis View Post
Hey you two hooligans, awesome awesome photos and no more steak shots Dan .....I almost drowned in my own slobber

We are in snowy Peru still enjoying pork that is so thin it only has one side

Love to you both

Andi & Ellen
Thanks!!!

We are almost at our goal! We will drink to your health in Ushuaia!

Sara & Dan
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:15 PM   #509
Saralou
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Hey

Quote:
Originally Posted by NomadicOne View Post
Awesome pics! Glad you liked the recommendations so far. Thanks for the shoutout and link to my outdated blog site. Gives me real incentive to write/post quickly when I have the time (i.e. when I get home).

I didn't need heated gear but did have good layers and timed the weather well.

I'm heading into Uruguay tomorrow. Hope the ride to Ushuaia was good and say Hi to Flo for me!

Have fun get US dollars!!! We go to Tolhuin on the lake tomorrow as our reservation in Ushuaia is for the 26 th. We are just about to go out to Tante Sara as you suggested here in Rio Grande! Cheers. Keep up the food recommendations!

Sara
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Old 01-24-2014, 01:21 PM   #510
Saralou
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El Chalten

Another day starts with a gas line, but thankfully they are pretty fast. The road heads back east and then north on the Ruta 40 to El Chalten, which is the town at the entrance to the northern part of the Glaciers National Park and with access to Mount Fitz Roy.


Screen Shot 2014-01-18 at 5.37.45 PM by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


We had the wind at our backs for a while, but that did not last. The wind was pretty strong, but not gusting much.


el chelten 25 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

We felt really bad for the people on bikes it must be hellish at times. We even saw a couple riding their fully loaded bikes in the ditch to try to get out of the wind.


el chelten 2 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


The only issue was stopping for photos at a Mirador because the wind picked up and it was very hard to get a photo and hold onto the bike. Riding into the town the views are really something and photos just can’t do it justice. We did a bit of a walk about the town, which is packed with hikers.


el chelten 7 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el chelten 9 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el chelten 10 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el chelten 11 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el chelten 18 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


el chelten 20 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


We opted to take the shuttle around to El Pillar and walk back over the mountain pass to El Chalten, which is about 5 hours.



el chelten 17 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 3 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

You don’t have an up and back route this way and there are more views of the glacier.


fitz roy hike 1 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 4 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr




fitz roy hike 6 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 9 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 10 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

This is as much of Fitz Roy (spire on the far right) that we ever say in this bad weather. It was really cold and even snowing for part of the day.


fitz roy hike 33 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 32 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

The last 2 hours is downhill and got warmer finally.


fitz roy hike 43 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 37 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 53 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 50 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr


fitz roy hike 55 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr

A well deserved treat after a long hike! Also a Wei recommendation was the Cerveceria great food and service. Go early there is always a wait list.




IMG_2500 by Worldwide Ride.ca, on Flickr
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