Riser height, what's the max

[SauceSquatch]

I'm in the market for new risers, and there are a few threads about what risers to get, but aside from who makes the best riser what is the max height I should go with?

Some folks say they can go 2" by flipping your throttle housing and some folks say it should be less. Has anyone run into problems going with 2"?

I actually want to go with the 2" to get the ROX anti-vibe (which they don't make smaller), it might require me to bend the bars forward a little at my height 5'10". Will I be cool with stock cables?

[Hondo]

I had no issues using 2" Rox solid risers on my 2011 Adventure. I did rotate my throttle assy 180-

[srad600]

I've got 2" Rox risers on two bikes, and they work great. If you're riding difficult terrain I'd just be sure to torque the bolts well. Had one side loosen up after 6mths of riding, re-torqued and it never happened again.

[RAPitude]

2009 990A

I just installed the 2" Rox Risers last week. Here's what I needed to do.


I rotated the Throttle cable 180 degrees.


I have ABS, so the brake line routes back to my seat along the frame, with the return line coming back in the top position. I did swap the routing of the brake line with that of the return line. In other words, the brake line from the handlebar is now in the top position, and the return line to the front brakes is now on the bottom position. The brake line is almost binding at full lock, but it's right on the edge where it doesn't. I think it is fine, as others who have done this have had no issues. And once I actually adjusted the bars to where I wanted them, there was a little more slack to it.


Clutch cable - no change, there was enough slack.

Electrical
- Clutch switch - no change, there was enough slack.
- Turn switch and Headlight switch - Needed to open windscreen/headlight and cut zip-ties to get the extra length for these. There's enough wire in there, just need to reroute a little and re-zip-tie.
- Brake switch - This was actually my only real issue. It was too short. It routes into the steering head, and then gets added to a large bundle that heads back into the bike. I didn't feel like opening up the bundle or tracing it further into the bike (it was a time thing, I was getting ready to leave for a trip). So, I just clipped the two wires, added about 3-4" of wire, connectors, and heat-shrinked the addition. DONE.

Hope this helps.

- R

[SauceSquatch]

Thanks that helps quite a bit. I have a 2010A so I would be in for the same thing. Doesn't sound bad and now I know to give myself some time for the install. I'm going to order up a set.

[SauceSquatch]

Ok, well I was going to go with the Anti-Vibe risers but it looks like they only make those in a 2 1/4" for our bar size... Seems like a that extra quarter inch is questionable... I'm not sure it's worth taking the risk to get the anti-vibe... Has anyone installed a 2 1/4" riser with stock cables?

[SauceSquatch]

actually scratch that, going with the 2" regular...

The 990 has a anti-vibe in the stem, they don't recommend using the anti-vibe risers if you already have that. I would imagine it would have the opposite effect and bounce all over the place.

[Pops of the desert]

I went with 2" and Hi CR Protapers, perfect strand up position now.

[brooks]

19mm Raid Risers. Perfect!

[Hodgo]

2" risers are about the max for the SE. I can assume the ADV is similar. I just fitted some RoxSpeed Risers and had to turn the throttle cable upside down to get them free.

[SauceSquatch]

Originally Posted by RAPitude

I have ABS, so the brake line routes back to my seat along the frame, with the return line coming back in the top position. I did swap the routing of the brake line with that of the return line. In other words, the brake line from the handlebar is now in the top position, and the return line to the front brakes is now on the bottom position. The brake line is almost binding at full lock, but it's right on the edge where it doesn't. I think it is fine, as others who have done this have had no issues. And once I actually adjusted the bars to where I wanted them, there was a little more slack to it.

So I just finished up last night and I know now what your talking about with the break lines running back along the frame, thanks for the advice. The rest of it was very straightforward and I had plenty of room after flipping the throttle, clipping a couple zip-ties going up behind the headlight and flipping the brake lines at the frame behind the right tank (might be different on a S mine is ABS). It was definitely a process but man o man it feels great now, incredible the difference.

After I got done I cracked a beer and observed a job well done... until i noticed a light coming from inside the bike... I left my damn mini flashlight behind the tank next to the frame, GAH! So i had to take it all off again to get it out... I knew it went too smoothly

All and all I think i could have even done a 2 1/4" as the max...