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Old 07-25-2012, 04:58 PM   #16
dentvet
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Duke 620s came with little rubber pads that fit into the footpegs for the vibes, you can still buy them or make your own. Start diving into the LC4 thread to find everything you can think of, including a thread on how to rebuild your shock.

Thanks for the roll backwards trick, navin!

What else are you going to find for 1200 bucks with a title and 50 ponies?
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:12 PM   #17
Shooter1
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620

I had two '98 RXCe620's. Your bike did not come stock with the Edlebrock, it probably has a dellorto on it unless someone has monkied with it. I replaced the E-brock with the BST40's on both my '98's and you could kick start them with 3, maybe 4 kicks when cold. When warm they woudl start on the first kick, and you didn't have to kick the shit outta them. Just a nice steady fluid motion and bam, it's runnng. I'd be sure your carb is dialed in and the valves are in spec, that will make the bike start easier. My bikes had the e-start but every now and then I'd kick it , (standing on left side, with right foot) just to see the looks on my buddies faces when is started so easy. Yes the 620's vibrate, a pretty fair amount. It never bothered me off road or on gravel. Around town not too bad. I stayed as far away from the interstate I could get with that bike however. Both were absolutely bulletproof. If I ever stumbled across another one close to home for sale I'd probably buy it. Good luck.
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Old 07-26-2012, 05:03 AM   #18
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dentvet View Post

What else are you going to find for 1200 bucks with a title and 50 ponies?

Exactly! That's how I rationalized it! :)

This morning, it took two kicks cold. Then, two more kicks when it had warmed up a bit - but died on me because I forgot to turn the dang gas on!

I've got shop manuals for both the bike and the engine. I'll check and see what I got for a carb. The PO did say he re-jetted the carb to match the FMF exhaust, so I don't know if it's correct or not.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:43 PM   #19
rz35027
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The shock itself might not be bad. Check for any signs of leakage. The 95-96 era bikes came with a 63 kg rear spring and maybe 40's in the front.... way too soft.

You look like a big guy, putting heavier springs on the bike will make a really big difference(!) I'm guessing here, but, 8.8 -90 kg on the back, and 50's or better on the front. It will become a different bike.


I have a 95 RXC with a few mods, kick only can be a pain sometimes, otherwise it's a great bike!
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:11 AM   #20
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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I haven't really hit any terrain with it yet, so I really don't know how well the suspension works. It just feels a little "floaty" at 60 MPH - but that's compared to my big V-Twin Cruiser. It may just be the nature of the bike. I am probably 60 lbs heavier than the average rider. What's this sprung for? 150 lbs?

I don't see any signs of leakage around the rear shock. But, the bike is 18 years old - maybe all the oil is long gone evidence of the leak was cleaned up. Maybe it is just sprung too soft. Maybe, it's just low on nitrogen. Really the only way to know for sure is to take the shock apart and look.

Kick start is getting to be less and less an issue. Both because of advice I've gotten here and practice. In the mornings, I've been doing the 7 kicks with the compression release pulled before turning the bike on. Starts the first kick every time.
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Old 07-27-2012, 05:13 AM   #21
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So, what does the battery do on this bike? Mine is completely shot. Dead. Won't take a charge at all. But, the headlight, tail light, brake light and blinkers all work when the bike is running.

The indicator lights on the dash don't work though.

What would replacing the battery do for me? It's just a little 1.2 aH gel cell - so I can pick one up for about $20.
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:33 PM   #22
rz35027
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It's probably sprung for 150 or less.

If it gets low on nitrogen, the shock will leak... the gas keeps pressure on the seal head. Try just gassing it up. These shocks are not that difficult to work on, there is a good thread in here somewhere.

The battery is required for parking lights, the bike will run fine without it.
The brake lights are AC only, they won't work without the engine running. Everything else is DC.
The instrument lights are little bulbs in a rubber boot pushed into it's place.
On a bike that old and with so few miles it would be a good idea to change the crank end seal in the clutch cover, it supplies the bottom end with oil (you really don't want it to fail), it is an inexpensive seal and easy to change out.

Put an FCR on it (!), it really wakes the motor up.
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:08 AM   #23
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I was able to take the bottom cap off the gas reservoir yesterday. Then, I drilled and tapped for a schrader valve. Put it back together and she's holding 150 psi of nitrogen. It felt pretty good on the ride home from work. But, until I really push it off road, I don't think I'll be able to tell if the suspension is working correctly or not.

I am going to have to do something with the front end, though. The right fork is definitively leaking. I'll probably just wait til this winter to tear into it and fix everything at once.

I'm pretty sure the crank seal has been replaced. I'm the third owner of the bike. The guy I bought it from said that the guy he bought it from replaced "some seal under here" and pointed to the clutch cover. The original owner is fairly local. I'll see if I can get a hold of him and find out if that's the case.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll see if I can get a few minutes away today and get some onboard video with my gopro.

gravityisnotmyfriend screwed with this post 07-28-2012 at 08:10 AM Reason: cant spel gud
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:29 PM   #24
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Just a quick vid on how to start and how not to start.

http://youtu.be/mxe3wGPSHWA

The first start, I had just finished work, and the bike had been sitting for 10 or so hours. Charge the combustion chamber, find the other side of TDC, full choke, and she's running in one kick.

For those saying, KTM=Kick Thirty Minutes, go ahead and time it. I guess you could say KTM = Kick Twenty thousand Milliseconds. Though that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue!

The second start, it just wouldn't fire. Usually it's been starting first kick. Rarely, it takes two. When it didn't start on the 3rd, I knew something was wrong. Yeah, it doesn't matter if you set the kill switch to run if you haven't turned the ignition on!

I've got another video uploading. Nothing really interesting - just me driving on pavement and gravel. I'm planning on hitting an OHV park in a few weeks. I''ll get some good onbd footage of that.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:45 PM   #25
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Like I said, nothing too interesting. Just cruising the IA back roads:

http://youtu.be/LBQ7dybX69Q
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:15 PM   #26
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Still riding the 920. Still learning the little nuances about her. I drove a couple of miles to get gas and had a heck of a time starting it. Turns out I shouldn't have used choke. Realized I had flooded it, so I pulled the compression release, opened the throttle and gave her a 1/2 dozen kicks. Fired up on the next kick. I'm learning.

Anyway, a couple of days ago, I see a mysterious package on my handlebars as I leave work. Turns out someone has left a pair of brake pads - brand new in the package - on my bike for me. They appear to be the right ones.

I don't know if any of you FF (is it alright to call you guys FF's? Or do I need to earn that? Should I care? ) live around here. But I just wanted to post a big thank you to the mysterious brake giver outer!

This bike sure has been drawing attention. Had a guy knock on my door over lunch. We talked about the bike for awhile and he asked me if I'd sell it. I just don't know where I could find another bike with this much performance for the money, so I told him that I'd be keeping it for awhile!
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:18 AM   #27
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Weird Electrical...

Iíve been driving the KTM as much as possible lately. Even took it to an OHV park to test itís off road meddle. It did awesome. Never pictured myself clearing tabletop on a 620cc monster, but it did it with ease. It does look like I blew a seal on the rh fork as it has started to leak oil. Iím planning on doing a complete suspension rebuild over the winter anyway Ė hopefully it can wait.

Anyway, weird electrical issues have shown up. The headlight seemed dim and flicker. The turnsignals only worked some of the time, and the tail light doesnít light. None of the instrument lights work.

But, how do you diagnose electrical on a bike that has to be running for the lights to come on? I can only work on it late at night after my kids are asleep, and itís a bit too loud to let it idle in my neighborhood while I chase wires. Plus, the thing would vibrate all the way down the driveway if I left it on the center stand. Luckily, I have an electrical schematic. The power comes from the generator, through a rectifier, through a regulator, then feeds a capacitor. I simply unplugged the capacitor and plugged in 12V DC there. Viola! A powered bike.

Turns out that the headlight and turn signal issues were just dirty connections. I was able to clean them, and they worked great on the way to work this morning. I did find that my turnsignals will only flash 3 or 4 times if the bike is idling Ė but if I rev it up a couple of hundred rpms, they flash just fine. I suspect that it needs the extra power and the first few flashes simply drain the capacitor.

But, the tail light and instrument cluster are still baffling. I suspect they are related since they are on the same circuit. With power on the circuit, I checked the two power contacts in the tail light socket. The contact that should power the tail light is at zero volts no matter what I did. Parking lights on or off, headlight on or off, hi beams, low beams, doesnít matter. Obviously, itís what I expected since the light doesnít work. But, the brake light is the weird thing. With no brakes, the contact is showing 4.3V Ė with the brakes on, itís showing 12V. There must be wires crossed somewhere, but I have no idea where the 4.3V is coming from. I only put 12V in the system.

Hopefully I can get some more time to diagnose it, but I donít even know where to start. All the wires look good as far as I can chase them. Iíll have to start checking continuity from plug to plug to see if there are any broken wires.

I canít imagine anyone here has the answer as weird as this is. But, I like to have a log of what Iíve done, and this seems as good a place as any to write it down. That said, any advice would be appreciated!
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:28 AM   #28
Kawidad
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Did you ever buy a new battery? IF not, problem solved.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:57 AM   #29
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Never did buy a new battery. The bike hadn't been started for a week and I checked the battery. It showed 12.8V. I just assumed the battery was shot since nothing happened when I turned on the key.

As it turns out, the battery only powers a parking light - which is just a tiny bulb next to the head light. Oh, I should mention that the parking light bulb is missing. But, I can't imagine that would cause problems. I'll have to check the schematic just to be sure, though.
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Old 08-27-2012, 01:24 PM   #30
smokeeater495
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Inconsistent electrical sounds like my old '96 RXC620. I would start by unplugging and cleaning every electrical connector. Put some dialectric grease inside before snapping them back together.
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