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Old 08-27-2012, 09:42 PM   #31
rz35027
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The brake light runs on AC - the bike must be running. Everything else is DC - the battery/regulator. Hook a battery/12 power supply into the battery terminals to test out your wiring... except for the brake lights.

Everything on the bike gets vibrated like crazy, check for abraded wires and loose connections... Blue loctite is your friend.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:21 PM   #32
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Location: ((kg*m)/s^2), IA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeeater495 View Post
Inconsistent electrical sounds like my old '96 RXC620. I would start by unplugging and cleaning every electrical connector. Put some dialectric grease inside before snapping them back together.
That was my first step. It did take care of my flickering headlight, but not the tail light.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rz35027 View Post
The brake light runs on AC - the bike must be running. Everything else is DC - the battery/regulator. Hook a battery/12 power supply into the battery terminals to test out your wiring... except for the brake lights.

Everything on the bike gets vibrated like crazy, check for abraded wires and loose connections... Blue loctite is your friend.

Lights don't care if you feed them AC or DC. The filament lights up the same no matter which way the electrons are traveling. That's why I hooked up the 12V power supply just past the capacitor - to test all the AC lights.

Dug a little deeper today. Found a couple of interesting things and finally a solution. The first culprit was the fuse inline with the battery. Looked fine, but showed 650 Ohms resistance. So, I swapped that out. Then, I was able to trace wires. I had power from the battery to the ignition switch. Power from the switch to the handlebar control. So, I cracked open the handlebar controls and had to do a thorough head scratching . The wire colors inside the control weren't what the schematic said they should be. But, if you follow the wire bundle back to the plug under the cowl, they were the right wires.

Then, I saw that the wire bundle was not factory shrink wrap. It was tape. I really should have gotten pictures, but time was short and I had to get this wrapped up.

After peeling back approximately 312 yards of electrical tape it became obvious that the handlebar control was not the factory original. However, the buttons on the control did what they are supposed to - mostly. The only thing that it didn't do was to connect the green wire to the yellow wire when you turn the headlights on. Those wire were cut and taped off for some reason. And, of course, those are the wires that power my taillight. So, for now, I just permanently wired them together. So, any time my key is on, my taillight is as well. I don't see a down side to that setup. When I get more time, I'll see if I can figure out a better solution using the aftermarket handlebar control. But, for now, everything but the instrument lights are working. I checked the speedo light and it is burnt out. I hope that is the same for the rest of them as well.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:14 AM   #33
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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shock, carb, throttle issues

Finally got a little (very little) spare time to start addressing some issues on my KTM. The first thing to tackle was the rear shock. Mine had no dampening left in it. And, while I could have rebuilt it - and still may - Beek-02 gave me a good deal on a stock shock in good working condition.

Initially, I thought I could just pull the two bolts holding the shock on and slide it out the left hand side of the frame. No such luck. I ended up stripping just about everything off the top and back of the bike to get access.




That was taken after I got the new shock in.

I did put the subframe back on, but I'm leaving the tank off while I address a few other issues. First, the bike is thirsty - way too thirsty. I'm only getting about 60 miles to a tank. I pulled the carb and checked the main jet. It's a 195. A little research says that this bike came with a 155. Now, it does have an FMF pipe so it could be a little richer than stock. I'm thinking I'll try a 170 in there.

I haven't check the idle jet, but since that controls idle up to 3/4 throttle, I suspect that is pretty fat too. That's where most of my riding happens.

I could drop the needle a couple of slots, but I want to get closer on the jetting first.

The other issue I'm having is that the throttle pull doesn't seem linear. You can move the grip quite a bit with very little increase in throttle, but then you get to a certain point, and the throttle pops open quickly. I'll post a pic of it later, but it turns out that the throttle grip itself is badly worn. There's a plastic piece that's supposed to be round, but it's been worn pretty flat where the cable first comes into contact. It ends up with a sorta cam profile. Tough to explain, but I'll post a pic.

Last couple of things I want to address while the bike is torn down. Definitely need to check the valves. Have done that since I've owned the bike. And, I'm thinking I'll rebuild the water pump while I'm in there. There's a definite smell of burning anitfreeze when I park the bike after it's warmed up. I"m hoping it's just the water pump seal going out.

gravityisnotmyfriend screwed with this post 01-21-2013 at 07:15 AM Reason: updated title
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:15 PM   #34
gravityisnotmyfriend OP
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Location: ((kg*m)/s^2), IA, USA
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After some research, the thingy that's worn is called the throttle tube. I need a new one.

Motion pro sells one that looks like the one on my bike, but there's no dimensions or fitment specs. Are all throttle tubes pretty much the same? Will any throttle tube for a 7/8th inch bar work with my bike?


E.T.A.
Upon a closer look, it's a domino throttle tube. Looks like those are all the same size. I should be able to find one of those to work.

gravityisnotmyfriend screwed with this post 01-25-2013 at 06:11 AM
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