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Old 07-25-2012, 12:26 AM   #1
french horn OP
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Location: Bundaberg Qld. Australia
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Dr650se takedown centrestand build

I hope this works, my primitave computer skills may get in the way..... but here goes.

After positive reviews of this : http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=12274

I have decided to try posting a "HOW TO BUILD IT" thread.

Any advice as to "HOW TO POST IT BETTER" would be appreciated...

REMEMBER, IT'S FOR A DR650SE .... but the idea should work for a few other brands/models.

This thread may take a while 'coz I also have to work through the week AND my skills on this thing are pretty hopeless AND I gotta work out how to present this thread so y'all can understand my amateur methods ..

I hope it will be helpful
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:37 AM   #2
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Stage 1 ... Mounting plates

This page took hours to do, and it looks a bit small so I hope you can magnify it ( Ctrl + the + ) or even print it out to use in your workshop.

enjoy.

EDIT ALREADY : too much maybe

All measurements are in mm ... not inches
see HUGE EDIT below also.




well, looks useable.

Next parts should be the legs .... stay tuned.

cheers

HUGE EDIT

Thanks to inmate macdesign, a champion fella, we now have a decent drawing of the plates.
He will be making his from stainless steel and says he may knock up a few sets for inmates
but, at this stage, can't put a price on them (I reckon they'll be top notch items). He also said
he will send the files for your local laser/water cutter to set up with if you want them.
If interested, please PM him. ... that's .... macdesign.

THANKS HEAPS macdesign







.

french horn screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 12:53 AM
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:27 PM   #3
JagLite
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Thumb Temporary Center Stand

Excellent start!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
And your time just in posting up a build thread.
It eats up a LOT of time, I know.
But it is very much appreciated

Looking forward to the rest of the instructions
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Excellent start!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
And your time just in posting up a build thread.
It eats up a LOT of time, I know.
But it is very much appreciated

Looking forward to the rest of the instructions
No worriesw mate, your appreciation is appreciated
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:12 AM   #5
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Dr650se takedown centrestand - legs - part 1


Now pay attention, this could get confusing .... but I hope not.

The legs are a bit complex so we need to draw a plan. From that plan, we will also make 2 templates.

We need:

a large sheet of hobby cardboard .... or something you can draw on .. ...at least 500mm long X 200mm wide

a plank of timber ... good if 20mm or more thick.... at least 60mm X 400mm

a sharp pencil

a steel ruler ... metric .... best if it's at least 500mm in length

a protractor or set-square
.................................................. .................................................. ...............

The pic below is a guide and I will refer to it from time to time.... see pic = SP ... unless I forget
( the rulers in the pic are to keep my c/board flat ... make no reference to them )

HERE GOES


STEP
1 Draw a line slightly above the narrow edge of the c/board, length of line at least 100mm in length SP B

2 somewhere to the left of centre, using set square or protractor, draw a perpendecular (90 deg's) line up the c/board .. line length PRECICELY 420MM SP
B A ......point A represents TOP OF LEG

3 from
A come back 80mm and mark it. SP C
( I should have marked where your perpendicular line started ..(see STEP 2) ... we'll call it D, sorry about that

we want the footprint to be wider than the bike frame for stability, so the next few steps will ensure that.

4 from point D mark a point 50mm to your right along line B SP , from that point, complete a triangle back to point C
we need this triangle to be transfered to a timber plank (15mm thick plank is good, but use what you have) then cut
accurately

5 we need to make another triangle exactly 1/2 the angle (point C) [ skip this instruction if you know how to divide the angle ] from point C place marks 300mm back on both lines (SP CD and CB ), using mm ruler mark centre between those marks. draw a line (mine is dotted .. SP) from C through that centre mark to line B we need to make another timber triangle from this






That should keep you busy for a few minutes ...... I gotta cook dinner

cheers





french horn screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 05:59 PM
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:22 PM   #6
McAdoo
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Looking good, Thanks for posting up this build
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:24 AM   #7
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Hijack !!!

(Thanks McAdoo .... my pleasure)


Had to do it .... check this out.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....ostcount=12310

french horn screwed with this post 07-27-2012 at 02:34 AM
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Old 07-31-2012, 04:45 AM   #8
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Dr650se takedown centrestand - legs - part 2

During this stage, we'll be making a few jigs ... nothing fancy but I feel necessary to get the legs absolutely mirrored.
We do this so the bike sits level when on the stand.

Here's 2 of them:



Here are 2 pics demonstrating that, no matter how accurate we measure and cut, unless you "jig" , the legs may be different. I placed both legs, after welding, on the original plan .... they don't match the plan... but they are the same as each other :









As you see, I did something a little wrong, probably using a biro to mark with so you can see the marks in the pics, and accuracy went out the window.

That said. let's get on with it.

Remember... all measurements are in mm
STEP:

1. I used 20x20x1.6 RHS steel, I suggest you use something similar otherwise the mounting plates may not work.
Cut 2 lengths at 430 ... (whatever the first length is ... 426-433, ensure both are exactly the same).


I marked each piece twice .... so as to be marked on either side of the upcoming cut.. the arrows as marked indicate the top, where all measurements are taken from...SP below




2. On 1 piece, mark 80 from one end then on both, mark 280.





3. Grab the smaller timber triangle you made from the plans.Place it in your cutoff saw, ensuring it protudes both ends of the fence .. mark a spot and insert a nail (see pic - SP) then place the 430 length as to cut at the 80 mark, clamp it but don't cut yet. Take a pencil and mark the triangle adjacent to the 280 mark .... now cut. Don't worry too much as to what part of the 80 mark to cut, being on an angle now ... anywhere will do.






Now insert the 2nd 430 length into the cutoff saw ... this time, match the 280 mark with the mark you put on the triangle and ensure the nail is hard against the fence ... this will ensure the cuts are exactly the same distance from the ends.... go ahead and make the cut.
sorry, forgot the pic.


more soon.

french horn screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 06:02 AM
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:39 PM   #9
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Now we're going to drill the holes for the pivot tube/hinge at the top of each leg.
I managed to find some 2mm walled tube with 9mm inside diameter so I need 13mm holes. The rod I used as hinge pins (see MOUNTING PLATE in second post) is 8mm, a slightly loose fit makes for easier assembly.

STEP
1. Take the top (short) section of the LEFT leg. Because of the angle cut, it has a long and a short side. On the LONG side, from the top end, scribe across at 10mm down. Then find centre width, mark it and centre punch it.


.


2. At this point, we need to make a "jig" for the drill vice ... this will ensure the holes in each leg are exactly mirrored, just incase drilling isn't perfect. The bed of my drill vice has 28mm slides. I grab some spare leg material (in my case, 20x20mm RHS) and cut a piece 25mm long then de-burr it .. this is now a "jig". With a straight edge I place the jig into the vice which leaves a 3mm shelf for the top of the leg to sit flat across the vice bed.SP below.





3. Insert a drill bit suitable for pilot holes ... I used 5mm then install the "jig" and scribed top of leg , tighten vice - SP below. (take no notice of felt-tip marks, they're from an earlier project)



Rotate the drill table with vice loosely bolted into position and adjust so we are aiming to drill into the centre punch dent ... tighten vice bolts and table clamp ... drill pilot hole through both sides, the drill bit should pass through into the space between the vice slides. Once drilled, remove the top of leg.

Now, insert the other top of leg into the vice with "jig" but this time, have the SHORT side uppermost. This will ensure a mirrored hole ... if your drilling wasn't exact in the first top of leg it may be off centre, if we don't drill from the SHORT side this time, the centerstand will have a twist when in use, putting extra stresses on the centrestand. Go ahead and drill the pilot holes as before.
Loosen the table clamp and swing the table away so you can remove the pilot drill and insert the appropriate drill bit for the pivot tube ... in my case, 13mm , swing the table back into place and drill the larger holes, remove that top of leg and replace it with the first one you drilled, ensuring the long side is uppermost, drill the larger holes.

4. Onto a length of plank, place the long section of the LEFT leg then hammer a nail into the plank at the bottom end of the leg, then 2 nails into the plank along the length of the leg, ensuring to leave room to weld at the angled cut.

Grab the short length of LEFT leg, the piece you just drilled, and place it onto the plank so as to have an angled joint, then hammer 2 nails into the plank ensuring a perfect match at the angled joint ... this may take several nailing attempts. SP below. (I painted nails white so easier to see in pic)




The next step is necessary to prevent weld-shrinkage from opening the joint immediately after the first tack.

5. Take 2 clamps and appropriate scrap steel tube, clamp the longer section of leg to the 2 nails,ensuring the end is against the nail ... not too tight as to bend the leg, then clamp the short section ensuring a perfect fit at the joint. SP .. I forgot to take a pic during construction so this (just taken) shows the sections already welded. You will also notice I removed some timber so as to not let any molten metal to burn and sink into the plank causing problems in subsequent jointings ... probably not necessary. SP below



Go ahead and TACK the sections together


Once tacked, remove leg from the plank and complete welding the joint .... then do it all over again with the other leg.
Once fully welded, grind excess material so we can fit plates to the sides of the joint for strength.SP



6. To make the plates, I used 1.5mm sheet steel. It had surface rust so I hit it with a wire wheel.

I first drew 2 lines on my sheet steel, one 25mm from the edge parallel to the edge then another line at 50mm.

I then placed the welded joint on the 25mm line and traced the angle from the edge to the 50mm line,at both sides of the leg ... then continued so as to have 4 tracings SP below.



Then cut the plates from the sheet, I used a thin (2mm I think .. not measured) 4" cutting disc.

Using the (what was) 25mm line on each plate, go ahead and position and clamp the plates and weld them to both sides of both legs, grind them if necessary so as not to leave dangerously sharp protrusions.



.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............

Now we're going to install the pivot tubes.

Cut 2 lengths of tube so that they are long enough to protude through both sides of the legs by a minimum of 5mm, you drilled the holes for these earlier.

insert the tubes into the holes as shown below. I made the tubes longer so welding spatter (or my clumsy welding) won't enter the tubes, it can be difficult to remove SP below



Go ahead and weld the tubes in place... both outside the leg and, where you can reach inside.
Once you've done that, using the 1.6mm sheet steel, make 2 end caps and weld them on to close off that end.
Now cut the protusions off and grind it all over for a nice finish.SP below





MORE TO COME

cheers








.

french horn screwed with this post 08-01-2012 at 06:34 PM
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:15 PM   #10
JagLite
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Centered and standing

Looking great!
Nice instructional how-to too
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Old 08-02-2012, 12:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Looking great!
Nice instructional how-to too
Thanks heaps for that JagLite .... fairdinkum? you like the "how-to" method? ... that's encouraging.

I hope you're taking advantage of it all, 'coz I'd like to see someone post some pix of what they've done.

If you, or anyone else has questions or problems, please post here, we may all learn something.

cheers mate

Greg
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:23 PM   #12
JagLite
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Thumb Photo proof

I do my mods in the winter and ride during our all too short summer.
This winter, when I weld one up I will post my experience and pictures.
In the meantime, hopefully others are taking advantage of you sharing your knowledge.
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
I do my mods in the winter and ride during our all too short summer.
This winter, when I weld one up I will post my experience and pictures.
In the meantime, hopefully others are taking advantage of you sharing your knowledge.

can't wait for winter then ..
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Old 08-12-2012, 12:58 AM   #14
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Now it's time to make the cross member and the sockets which allow for assembly/disassembly of the stand.

Because my cross member is 20mm square, I am using 25mm square tube (RHS) with 1.5mm wall thickness for the sockets. This will give a slightly loose fit ... no worries.

Using the LARGER triangular "jig" you made from the plans, trim one end of your socket material then square cut 70mm along ... make 2 sockets. Due to the angle cut, you will have a long and a short side of each socket. From the angled end, measure down 20mm (or leg thickness) on both long and short sides. Run a line from edge to edge, showing the depth to cut, making tabs. SP below Cut down to the line, ensuring to hug the inside of the socket with the saw. Remove any material between the cut and the nearest wall.





Using a stout pair of pliars, bend each tab out to an angle parallel to the end .SP below

.

That's the sockets done.

.To determine the length of the cross member, we have to jump through a few hoops.

If you haven't done so already, paint the MOUNTING PLATES. When good and dry, remove the front footpegs, install the MOUNTING PLATES between the footpegs and bike frame .... ensure the plates are clear of the engine cases. With some form of threadlock, tighten the bolts ... job done.

Working from beneath the bike, measure the distance between the outersides of both plates .... mine was 261mm ... right it down.

Back in post #2, I mentioned the need of atleast 300mm of hinge rod, go get it now.
On that rod, place a mark about 50mm from one end, not a critical measurement... then another mark 261mm (or your measurement) from it with a third mark EXACTLY midway between them.

Refer to the pic below for the next few steps.
On a clean sheet, bench, floor whatever, draw a line (base line) atleast 400mm long, half way along it, draw a perpendicular line atleast 450mm long. Draw another line 80mm above and EXACTLY parallel to the base line.

Slide both legs onto the rod ensuring they have the feet wider than the hinges, as shown. Place the inside face of each leg on the two wider marks (261mm) then place the combined pieces onto the lines you just drew, ensuring the third mark (midway between the first two marks) on the rod, sits exactly over the perpendicular line, the feet are equidistant from the perp. line and the short "top of leg" sections are parallel to each other.

Where the legs intersect the drawn line at 80mm above the base line, mark the line directly beneath the inside face of the legs.




. Move the legs away and measure between the two marks you just made, this will be the length of your cross member.

Using the LARGER triangle "jig" again, measure and cut your cross member, ensuring the measurement forms the LONG side of the cross member. Because of the loose hinges and sockets, 1 or 2mm either way shouldn't be problematic, but try to get it right.




At this stage, you can check accuracy by re-placing the legs (on rod) and cross member onto the drawn lines to see that the 80mm line is directly beneath the lower edge of the cross member. If so, slide the sockets into place, bend socket tabs to suite, ensure every piece is on its marks, then tack the sockets to the legs, DO NOT WELD THE CROSS MEMBER strip it all down and complete welds, ensuring not to have any molten material entering the socket at the tabs, so as to make the socket more shallow.



You could, if you like, set it up on a more suitable bench for welding. I used two 80mm pieces to ensure the cross member was level....don't weld them on ;)


.

french horn screwed with this post 08-13-2012 at 10:44 PM
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:45 AM   #15
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Once it's all welded and cleaned up, grab two "shaft locking pins" (you can use anything you like, but I figured these pins suitable for quick assembly). I used 6mm x 65mm for a good reason ... that's all they had at the tractor parts shop .




.
Measure and mark the sockets ready to drill suitable holes, not too sloppy fit. With the socket in the drill vice, grab the cross member, check that the angled end matches the angle of the leg and hold the cross member firmly in the socket while you drill the hole ... completely through. I marked the leg and corresponding cross member end incase the holes don't match the other socket. Go ahead and drill the other socket/cross member end.
Sorry for the blurry pic., I wasn't wearing my glasses and it looked OK to me




Next is the part where we fit the stand to the bike, trim the feet and maybe shim the stand for more rear wheel-ground clearance.
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