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Old 07-29-2012, 09:42 AM   #1
MikeMike OP
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: South east Mexico
Oddometer: 4,193
Coil Stick removal suggestion

Seeing that the coil stick puller that arrived at the local dealer here when I ordered it 8 weeks ago was for an earlier type of coil stick (narrow head, not the tear drop shape), I was left with my hands.

I found that by gently folding up the rubber skirt (reversing it) I was able to get a decent grip on it and began to patiently, very patiently and gently rock and pull the coil stick.

Cylinder 2 was fairly easy, only about 5 minutes. Cylinder one required a tiny squirt of WD-40 (without getting any on the inverted skirt) and about 10 minutes of patiently working it out.

Be careful, it is very, very tempting to lift on the rear extended piece where the wires plug in, but you really have to resist this. No pliers either. I thought about using the screwdriver trick the GS1150/1200 guys use but there is really not a great amount of space in order to fold up a rag and pry the things out. Also, the lip on the tear dropped shape piece is very narrow.

For me, it seemed that the rubber skirt gave me enough grip, but you have to go really easy and be patient.

Also, when you get all the plastic of the air chamber/batter carrier off, be careful with the plastic piece that remains below where the battery is carried. This spacer piece likes to get a little crooked. Also, watch for the seal on the crankcase breather hose where it bolts to the motor, mine was missing and I used a line of sealer that should hold ok.

I really think the proper puller tool, that $25 buck metal one that is for sale should be used, it probably makes a 15 minute and risky job (coil sticks are really friggin expensive) a breeze.
Moral of the story, in a "pinch" you might be able to get yours out with the method I used. Just be real patient.

Regarding the plugs, I used some copper based anti-seize on the threads (a very, very light application) and a normal drinking straw to screw them in. Just put the end of the drinking straw over the end of the plug (it will hold it suspended if it is snug enough) and then lower the plug in and gently start the threads. The idea here is that it is like using a piece of rubber tubing (that I never have sitting around) and the straw will slip if the plug is cross-threaded. I was able to use the straw to get the plugs all the way in and used an old socket I had (believe it or not, one that came from the first tool kit I ever owned back in 1971 when I worked on my liittle Kawasaki) and been keeping it all these years. It is a very, very narrow space in there. I wouldn't recommend using any socket unless it measures around 21 mm outside diameter or less. Mine measured just under 22 but had an old sticker on it. The sticker was actually rubbed off near the base, that is how little space I had. Just for giggles, I tried another socket I had and it did not fit and would have gotten stuck (very bad!). It is also worth checking the gap on new plugs, one of mine was out.

Other things, there is a new air filter design (well, new to me) that has a metal grid with two humps in it reinforcing the top (like an automotive filter) and the silicone rubber lip is noticeably stiffer. It also has a new part number and a 30% higher price.

Just thought I would pass this along, it might be helpful to someone.

MikeMike screwed with this post 07-29-2012 at 09:56 AM
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