Quit our jobs, sold our home, gone riding...

[Turkeycreek]

Thanks for the update Gene, good info on the TVIP in La Paz. It went smoothly because you did it correctly and got your visa when you entered Mexico; you are in the country legally. The problem some folks have had is that they failed to get a visa when they entered Mexico and they had to run around trying to find a migracion office when they could get one. It is usually easy if you follow the procedures. Vehicle "free zone" means no TVIP required, it doesn't mean no visa.

Cómo es su español?

[eakins]

oh sweet.
...make sure to have that marriage license ready at each border as neda's bike reg in your name could come back to haunt you over and over. do you have an apostille for it?

either you got lucky or they've improved their TVIP service at the ferry dock. it hasn't been that way in the past with reports of employees acting almost mad you didn't do this at the border and people paying all sort of extra "fines" and having to wait around a long time for not having their TVIPs. maybe timing it so there is no ferry service at all is the key as the area gets overwhelmed.

on the southern end to Guatemala (mesila) remember to turn your TVIP back in (to get your deposit back) before the border. if you dig around, you can find where the office is but it's not right at the border where you'd expect it to be but farther in say 20min or so.

as for actually sticking that hologram sticker on your windshield, most don't and it's a bitch to get back off after the glue has baked in the sun. if you get stopped just pull it out.

at this point I would get all your documents and each photocopy your drivers licsense, passport and tourist card on 1 sheet and your tvip on another sheet. this is common practice and if you get pulled over (transit cop bucking for a bribe not a true offense) show only the 2 photocopy sheets at 1st. if a transit cop gets your original document it's harder for you to bluff your way out of a bribe. in the case of a true offense and ticket they will hold your DL and you go and pay the fine at the court and get it back. by law the police can not keep your passport only your DL. if they say you need to pay on the spot it's bogus & a bribe. by handing a cop a photocopy your signalling you understand how this works and know what they're up to.

if they are looking only for a bride they back down real fast if they only have a photocopy. if they insist on the original tell them you will only give that to them after they write a true ticket. waiting out a bribe is the best course then asking for their chief (el jefe) to come by and write you a ticket works after that. transit cop will lie out their ass to get you to pay them something on the spot as they make so little $. federal police and the military will not give you tickets as their current jobs are protection and dealing drug gangs.

hopefully you won't have a single transit cop issue before you leave but expect it somewhere along your long journey. use the same technique for every country. i've heard honduras is the worst and sometime it's easier with those guys to pay a buck or 2 and move on.
mexican transit cops all think tourist have gobs of cash and look for $50 or more.

here's my story. i was riding on a puerto vallarta side street and a transit cop waved me down. he said i was going the wrong way down a 1 way street and he needs to give me a ticket. i said 1st of all i'm sorry, i'm a tourist but where is the sign??? there of course was none. he repeated he needs to give me a ticket and i repeated please show me a street sign or how should i know that it is 1 way (it wasn't of course and had used this road many times). he then repeated I need to give you a ticket and I said no ticket...and then went silent. he stared at me for a bit and said again i need to give you a ticket and I said please your chief here so i can talk to him. he then looked at me again for a minute (and was thinking to himself) and said let me see your paperwork. i then pulled out my 2 photocopied sheets of paper and handed that to him. he looked at it and quickly handed it back and said have a nice day. he had nothing on me, i was not scared, was patient and prepared...and I won.

enjoy the rest of your time in southern baja!
when you head south after mazatlan, the toll road (cuota) to tepic (15d) is worth it as the free road (15 - libre) in that section is slow as hell. get off the San Blas exit ad drop down to the coast. After you go through the town of Las Varas look for a right towards Chacala. Check out and hopefully spend a night. Chacala has they sweetest beach in the whole region. After that head south to Sayulita and plan on spending a few days as it's that cool of a spot.

El Diamante http://www.hoteldiamantesayulita.com.mx/ is one of the key hotels in town. You can ride your bike up into their courtyard and secure them and walk the rest of the time. Andres and Theresa run the place and the inside rooms are a great deal for pricey Sayulita. Make sure to check out the beach bar at the Cammeron campground around the corner and get plenty of fish tacos in town. http://www.sayulitalife.com/ I know you'll enjoy Sayulita. We have many friends living again their this winter & we're head back next. Bernie and Linda (from Fernie w/ 1000 Vstrom) might be at El Diamante as they live their every winter.

farther south is Puerto Vallarta and the Malecon at night. make sure to take a day trip to Yelapa - http://www.yelapa.info/ and up into the mtns of san sebastion del oeste http://www.vallarta-info.com/sansebasti.html. if you do visit lake chapala/ajijic (home to 1000s of canadians) and stay (which I recomend you do) plus take a day bus then taxi ride and visit old historic guadalajara, the road past san sebastion is a great twisty mountainous back way to chapala - http://www.accesslakechapala.com/location/chapala/ .

there are some sweet hot springs/vapor caves on lake chapala in the town of san juan cosala. this town is on the north side and west of ajijic http://www.accesslakechapala.com/201...la-balnearios/

...as you head farther south I'll tell ya about cool spots i've found.

Originally Posted by lightcycle

So here are the gory details on obtaining a TVIP at La Paz: there aren't any. It was dead simple and quite an enjoyable experience.

While you can buy ferry tickets to Mazatlan right in La Paz, they will not sell it to you unless you have a TVIP. The only place you can get your TVIP is at the ferry docks in Pichilingue, about 20 minutes away from La Paz. Or a very nice 15 minute ride... . So, after hearing all the horror stories about getting a TVIP, we rode out one afternoon just to get it done and over with.

There's a Banjercito building right at the dock, staffed by two very friendly girls who spoke perfect English. We had done our research and made photocopies of our passports, the vehicle registrations, our drivers licenses, and the visitor permits that we got at the border in Tijuana. The pre-work was unnecessary, since they have photocopiers right there in the office. There was no one else in line, since we came when there wasn't a ferry scheduled to depart, so they attended to us immediately, one girl doing each of our TVIPs. Mine was done in less than 5 minutes.


TVIP, can't get into Mexico without it. Don't leave Mexico with it.

The only complication (which wasn't their fault) was that all the names on the photocopied documents have to match. Unfortunately, Neda's bike is registered under my name. We needed to produce a marriage certificate to show that Neda wasn't importing someone else's motorcycle and that it belonged to the family. That took a bit of time on my part because of how paranoid I am about protecting our documents online, since I didn't have my laptop with me and had to use their computer, which they were really nice about.

The cost is about $50 USD per TVIP, and the bond that you have to put up can be paid by credit card. Since my bike is older, the bond is $300 (model years 2001-2006), but Neda's 2012 GS was $400. The bond for pre-2001 models is $200. They gave us a list of all the addresses of the Banjercito offices at the border exiting Mexico and told us to return the TVIP to get our bond back, which means cancelling the charge on the credit card. If you don't do this, you'll lose your deposit and have troubles getting your vehicle back into Mexico ever again. The TVIP is good for 6 months.

It was a very painless and pleasant experience! I'd recommend going at a time when there isn't a ferry set to depart, that way you'll be guaranteed that there'll be no lineup. It's so close to La Paz, and it's a beautiful ride there and back and you can hit the beaches at Pichilingue and make an afternoon out of it.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by Turkeycreek

Thanks for the update Gene, good info on the TVIP in La Paz. It went smoothly because you did it correctly and got your visa when you entered Mexico; you are in the country legally. The problem some folks have had is that they failed to get a visa when they entered Mexico and they had to run around trying to find a migracion office when they could get one. It is usually easy if you follow the procedures. Vehicle "free zone" means no TVIP required, it doesn't mean no visa.

Cómo es su español?

yes, but I know people who who did infact go to migracion at the border and still had a hell of a time at aduana (customs) in la paz. you know mexico, things change day to day on how easy or hard things go and how things work.
i'm glad they had a smooth experience.

[mlcollier5895]

i gotta question, scrolling thru looking at pic's.... for the big guy... what were your reasons for picking the bigger GS Adventure, over a smaller 1150 or straight 1200 GS ? can you shoot me your reasons ? send e-mail to me at "MLCollier5895@yahoo.com"

my thoughts are . . . you won't be able to use the greater gas tank 'cause your mates all have limited gas range . . . but that's just one thought. thanks in advnace. mark

[mlcollier5895]

i gotta question, scrolling thru looking at pic's.... for the big guy... what were your reasons for picking the bigger GS Adventure, over a smaller 1150 or straight 1200 GS ? can you shoot me your reasons ? send e-mail to me at "MLCollier5895@yahoo.com"

my thoughts are . . . you won't be able to use the greater gas tank 'cause your mates all have limited gas range . . . but that's just one thought. thanks in advnace. mark

[lightcycle]

Originally Posted by KamLeeR

Looks like its going just Dandy! Miss ya both!

Howdy, Carolyn! Hope things are going well on the ranch. You're going to have to change your handle to KamTeeM...? Love the new ride!

Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis

Gezz we will have to get our A into G to catch up with you guys

Hey A&E, we are moving in slow motion, you'll be caught up to us in no time and blazing the trail ahead of us on that new Orange Terror. I'll definitely keep tabs on where you guys are, I have a feeling we'll be exchanging war stories over a cerveza or 6 in the near future!

Originally Posted by Cloud

"Take a road less travelled" ha? I like this Canadian film.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7wN4...yer_embedded#!

It's funny, I did a solo trip across Canada in 2008, and that movie came out the very next year. When we watched it, I felt like someone took a movie of my life during the previous summer. Every scene was taken from the all the places I stopped at!

Originally Posted by mlcollier5895

i gotta question, scrolling thru looking at pic's.... for the big guy... what were your reasons for picking the bigger GS Adventure, over a smaller 1150 or straight 1200 GS ?

my thoughts are . . . you won't be able to use the greater gas tank 'cause your mates all have limited gas range . . . but that's just one thought.

Hi Mark, are you referring to Kevin in Ottawa/Vancouver? I'll let him answer, I think he's got an ADV account.

[lightcycle]

Originally Posted by Turkeycreek

Cómo es su español?

Muy lento para mí. Aprendí una nueva expresión: "Me defiendo"

Learning Spanish is probably one of the toughest things I've done lately. I'm not used to something not coming to me very easily. There are three parts to learning a new language: reading, listening and speaking. The reading part is the easiest, as I can pick apart the written words and supplemented with my sad knowledge of French, can piece together an accurate translation.

Over the last couple of weeks, I thought I understood the spoken word pretty well, but then realized I was filling in a lot of the gaps with educated guesses and implied words. Not to mention, our instructors and our homestay family were very good actors, conveying their meaning with hand gestures and pantomime. When I closed my eyes and listened to them, I didn't understand a thing.

The hardest part for me is speaking Spanish. I am very self-conscious about opening my mouth, it takes such a long time to remember the vocabulary and recall the conjugations. Neda is so much better at picking up new languages and has a head-start on learning Spanish (my fault, I was lazy). Because we're in the same class and together at the homestay, I end up not talking very much and just letting her do all the speaking. I'm like that unused muscle that atrophies because the dominant muscles do all the work...

I'm a lot better than when I started, I can tell, but not as far as I thought I'd be at this point. Oh well, seems I've got quite a bit of time and practice in front of me.

[lightcycle]

Originally Posted by eakins

at this point I would get all your documents and each photocopy your drivers licsense, passport and tourist card on 1 sheet and your tvip on another sheet...

Taking all your good advice to heart.

We haven't run into any crooked cops yet, but we've heard lots of first-hand horror stories from locals and travellers, so we're going to prepare ourselves. I have to admit, the whole concept of "la mordida" really rankles my sense of justice and fair play.

[Turkeycreek]

Originally Posted by lightcycle

Muy lento para mí. Aprendí una nueva expresión: "Me defiendo"

Learning Spanish is probably one of the toughest things I've done lately. I'm not used to something not coming to me very easily. There are three parts to learning a new language: reading, listening and speaking.

I've been in Mexico 5 years. Started with zero español. No lessons, just what I learned from my construction crew, housekeeping staff and my neighbors. I know lots of words but conjugations still escape me. Some days I think I'm hot stuff and the Spanish is pouring out of me. The next day - nada. I get by but so did Tarzan. I decided that I didn't care if I sound like an idiot when I speak Spanish. Lots of people claim I sound like one in English any way. So I just talk. I keep telling myself that it can't be that hard since the 3 year old next door can speak Spanish.

no perder el animo

[Merlin III]

Originally Posted by lightcycle

Taking all your good advice to heart.

We haven't run into any crooked cops yet, but we've heard lots of first-hand horror stories from locals and travellers, so we're going to prepare ourselves. I have to admit, the whole concept of "la mordida" really rankles my sense of justice and fair play.

I have heard of that type of corruption, with slightly different circumstances, directly from friend victims in NYC, Boston, and I experienced it in Arizona and NY. I think it is everywhere.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by lightcycle

Taking all your good advice to heart.

We haven't run into any crooked cops yet, but we've heard lots of first-hand horror stories from locals and travellers, so we're going to prepare ourselves. I have to admit, the whole concept of "la mordida" really rankles my sense of justice and fair play.

the feedback I got from rider I meet in Sayulita is those who rode through Baja never really experienced crooked transit cops. however those riding around Mexico mainland and coming from points south did experience it. i guess the mainland transit cops get paid so little that bribes are part of their pay. not sure the deal in Baja.

i'd say justice and fair play are things of the US and Canada...the land of laws. south of the border things are more about taking care of your needs and getting things done...mordida is just an extension of this. i'm sure you've noticed how people move through space available to them vrs the rigid this is my lane stay out US mentality. you'll see this even more as to head to the more crowded mainland.

biggest tip i can offer up is buy a separate wallet and put a few pesos plus and old credit in their. use that as your pullout wallet in case you run into any situations. a transit cop who makes $500 dollars a month seeing your big wad of cash at a stop will want some if you show it. petty theft is a bigger issue so secure everything on your bike. people as a whole a very honest in mexico, but not all are. in the end most will just see you as $$$.

[eakins]

Originally Posted by mlcollier5895

i gotta question, scrolling thru looking at pic's.... for the big guy... what were your reasons for picking the bigger GS Adventure, over a smaller 1150 or straight 1200 GS ? can you shoot me your reasons ? send e-mail to me at "MLCollier5895@yahoo.com"

my thoughts are . . . you won't be able to use the greater gas tank 'cause your mates all have limited gas range . . . but that's just one thought. thanks in advnace. mark

his bike is not an ADV.
spoked wheels are the fastest quick glance giveaway.

[Skeandhu]

Originally Posted by lightcycle

Hi Mark, are you referring to Kevin in Ottawa/Vancouver? I'll let him answer, I think he's got an ADV account.

What? Who are you guys calling "big"?
It's actually camera trick; I'm only 5'9", it's just that Gene and Neda are very tiny...

Mark - If you were indeed inquiring about my GSA, I will limit my thread-jack and get back to you separately.

-Kevin

[lightcycle]

Updated from http://www.RideDOT.com/rtw/56.html



Our first week in La Paz has been very taxing. Every day, we're up early to have breakfast and engage Alicia in some morning Espanol, then off to escuela for cuatro horas of intensive vocubulary enhancement and verb conjugation. When we get back in the early afternoon, we have a little break then another session of homestay language practice over lunch. Our evenings are spent in the room doing a bit of homework and massaging our aching heads, random Spanish words leaking out of our ears.


Practicing "las compras" (shopping) en Espanol in Todos Santos

So when the "fin de semana" (weekend) finally arrives, we feel rested enough to take a day-trip south to Todos Santos, a beach-side town recommended to us by Felipe, our Spanish instructor. It's about an hour's ride away from La Paz, and the road winds up and down the Sierra de la Laguna mountains. Lots of fun!


Bringing forth the Mayan Apocalypse...


Misione de Nuestra Senora de Pilar in Todos Santos


Musta forgot the rosary beads in the car...


Lobby of the Hotel California, Todos Santos

Yes, this is *THE* Hotel California, made famous by The Eagles song. I was a bit disappointed. I think I was expecting a real dive of an establishment, the kind of place a washed up, disillusioned Don Henley would check into and muse poetic about the twisted lives of the hotel's mysterious occupants. We walked through the lobby and halls, but no Mirrors on the Ceiling, no Pink Champagne on Ice. Just a very trendy, expensive hotel that steers visitors to the very large gift shop selling "Hotel California" souvenirs.

We didn't spend too much time there...


Getting ready to hit the beach

What we're really here to see are the pretty beaches just outside of town. It's about a 10 minute ride through some gravelly and sandy roads, and I'm glad that we unloaded most of the heavy gear off the bikes. Even so, we wobble our way through heavy sand to reach the beach's parking lot. Stupid, crappy Tourance tires.


How to take pictures of the waves coming ashore


Picture of waves coming ashore


How not to take pictures of the waves coming ashore

Felipe told us that a popular attraction in Todos Santos is the Turtle Release. The beaches here are an important nesting site for sea turtles, especially the endangered Pacific Leatherback. Unfortunately, the beaches have become home to all sorts of human activity - dune buggies and other powersports, and people taking their (hungry) dogs out for a walk. All of which destroy turtle nests buried in the sands.


Checking out the incubation greenhouse

Between the nesting months of October to April, volunteers comb the beaches at night and relocate the sea turtle eggs to a protected incubation greenhouse, providing a better environment for hatching success. The sites with the round fences around them are nests that are ready to hatch soon. The fence stops the turtles from trying to instinctually head for the waters, and allows the volunteers to gather them up in the late afternoon.


This baby is seconds old! It just crawled out of the sand having broken out of its egg!

The project is aimed not only at replenishing the sea turtle population, but also to educate visitors, who are encouraged to "assist" the baby turtles to make it to the waters without being trampled on by dune buggies or joggers, or eaten by dogs or birds.


We each "adopted" one baby turtle and walked them to the edge of the shore


My baby! Feeling a bit paternal here...

Sea turtles live to about 100 years. I got a bit choked up when I realized that we were here on their Day 1, helping them increase their odds to make it to Year 100. The odds are still stacked against them, even when they make it to the waters unmolested, they'll have to face aquatic predators, but at least we're evening the imbalance that we caused in the first place.


Day 1 of 100 years


SO CUTE! These little guys know exactly which way the waters are


And they're off...!

A line was drawn in the sand so that we didn't leave deep footprints on the shore that would impede the baby turtles' progress to the waters. And also to stop us from accidentally trampling on them, as the incoming waves occasionally pushed the turtles back on shore. I wanted to walk my baby turtle all the way into the water, but we are told that it's good for them to struggle on land as it prepares them to swim in the waters.


Off into the sunset, goodbye baby turtle!

[Turkeycreek]

The breadth of your experiences on this trip in truly amazing. From bears to turtles, the Wave and the waves and all the interesting people you write about. Thanks for having us along