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Old 10-01-2012, 10:09 PM   #31
GmanVic OP
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and two steps back

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Originally Posted by GmanVic View Post
...
If anybody is reading this...any other ordering things I should pay attention to? Brake lines, footpegs, starter, battery, a million wires...
...like the gear indicator sensor...

... looks like I am taking it apart again...(((sigh)))

I feel like an idiot, but I can't really just stop at this point. The good news is that I know pretty much what to do...practice makes perfect!
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:04 PM   #32
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Okay if I have to take it apart again I guess I better do it BETTER than last time...at this point I definitely do not want to strip anything so I have rigged up a tool where I "made do and took my chances" last time. Specifically, the Final Drive Housing Pivots, on the inside; the ones with the big locknuts. Ideally you are supposed to hold the inner 12mm Allen while loosening or tightening the 30mm nut. I don't have a 30mm wrench, so here's what I made up:







Not perfect of course -- can't get my 1/2 drive torque wrench in at the same time...but I think it will work.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:34 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by GmanVic View Post
...Not perfect of course -- can't get my 1/2 drive torque wrench in at the same time...but I think it will work.
I'm in the midst of similar work (currently paused while I sort out a tranny). Your thread has been helpful, so thanks!

Is there any reason you couldn't use a spanner / box-wrench to hold the retaining bolt while you torque the bearing bolt? This would allow access with your torque wrench.

I've thrown up some draft check-lists for the rear end of the R1100GS. I will be adding images, reinstallation notes, and tools-required lists when it goes back together. Lemme know if you've got any suggestions or edits.

Removing Final Drive
Removing Swing Arm
Lifting Rear End
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:44 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rutard View Post
I'm in the midst of similar work (currently paused while I sort out a tranny). Your thread has been helpful, so thanks!

Is there any reason you couldn't use a spanner / box-wrench to hold the retaining bolt while you torque the bearing bolt? This would allow access with your torque wrench.

I've thrown up some draft check-lists for the rear end of the R1100GS. I will be adding images, reinstallation notes, and tools-required lists when it goes back together. Lemme know if you've got any suggestions or edits.

Removing Final Drive
Removing Swing Arm
Lifting Rear End
Thanks rutard. It looks like I am partly documenting for others, partly make lists for myself, and partly seeking psychoanalysis!

Your check-lists look fantastic! That's exactly the kind of thing that works well for me!

As for your question "Is there any reason you couldn't use a spanner / box-wrench to hold the retaining bolt while you torque the bearing bolt? This would allow access with your torque wrench." a 30mm box wrench would work well, for all except the torquing - the 12mm hex pivot pin goes in first and is torqued against the bearing to 7 Nm, then the 30mm nut needs to be torqued to 150 Nm, without the pivot pin moving. So either way, with the tool I concocted, or with a wrench, the pivot pin risks moving. (Unless there is such a thing as a box-end torque wrench?)...apparently there is! http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0218345 - but in my quick search I didn't find 30mm options! [EDIT: Use crow foot from Twilight Error: McMaster-Carr P/N 5832A23 - $26. Its an SAE tool - 1 3/16, but it fits the 30mm locknut beautifully. When I remove the FD, I use heat and a 30mm impact socket in my gun to zap it loose, then when I'm reassembling, the crow foot head goes on my torque wrench and I hold the adjusting bolt with a breaker bar/12mm allen socket.]

And here are some other work-arounds: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/a.../t-128741.html

My Clymer manual says to put a mark on the pivot pin, once it is torqued, so when torquing the nut you can check the mark from time to time to see if the pivot pin is turning too. I am planning to:
1. Loctite and torque the pivot pin,
2. Let the loctite set for a day
3. Mark the pivot pin
4. Torque the nut, keeping an eye on the pivot pin mark.

GmanVic screwed with this post 11-01-2012 at 05:14 PM
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:20 PM   #35
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For reference - You can buy sets of large hex key adapters in most auto parts stores, labelled as brake caliper wrenches or something like that. I spent a whole frustrating day visiting tool stores looking for a 12mm hex key adapter and being told they could order one for $30-$60, before I found the set on the shelf at O'Reilly for $10.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:45 PM   #36
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Okay things are coming together with some struggles:
- don't forget to install the gear indicator switch (on top of the neutral switch). I read somewhere you can get at this with taking off the axle and FD. Don't believe it.
- careful to not to let the gear indicator switch to come apart. Mine did and there are three tiny spring with three tiny metal pickups. I lost one of the bits of metal. I put it back together with what I had but have no idea how it will work, if at all.
- turns out I had a new seal for under the new neutral switch, so that's in there, along with the o-ring.
- rubber boot at the front of the rear axle housing was hard to get on this time.
- helluva time getting the screws back into the sides of the electrical box. Finally left out the metal spacers in for now. Will revisit in a few weeks. Probably would have been better to reinstall the electrical box before dropping the frame and bolting it down

Again, so important to have help. Some stuff takes 6 hands.

QUESTION: There's one big electrical plug, I think it's got 4 or 5 round prongs in it and I can't recall where it goes. Apparently I thought it was important so I took a "look at this" picture while disassembling...

Does anybody know what this is and/or what it plugs into?

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Old 10-02-2012, 11:37 PM   #37
slartidbartfast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GmanVic View Post
Okay things are coming together with some struggles:
- don't forget to install the gear indicator switch (on top of the neutral switch). I read somewhere you can get at this with taking off the axle and FD. Don't believe it.
- careful to not to let the gear indicator switch to come apart. Mine did and there are three tiny spring with three tiny metal pickups. I lost one of the bits of metal. I put it back together with what I had but have no idea how it will work, if at all.
You sir are a sucker for punishment! You KNOW you'll be taking it apart again when the gear position indicator doesn't work properly don't you?

Sorry I can't remember what the plug is for or where it goes. Good luck!
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:55 AM   #38
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Haha! Yes I do know I will be taking it apart again...that was already the plan since I installed a used trans and intend to rebuild the current one and swap it in the future. Should be easy by then!
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:16 AM   #39
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I think that's the O2 sensor, it should have a mating connector up around the alternator...
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:54 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GmanVic View Post
Does anybody know what this is and/or what it plugs into?
Uncle Mark is correct. Just looked. It's the O2 sensor. One lead is connected to the exhaust. The other is on the RHS of the bike directly under the Motronic Computer. It should be affixed w. 2 zip-ties to the aft RHS headstock brace (just above and to the left of where your finger is pointing). Lemme know if you want a pic.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:29 PM   #41
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Don't do what I did!

Nice Thread. Please note drive orientation of yokes on shaft during reinstall. I didn't remember how it lined up and guessed. I guessed wrong. It had a bad vibration. I had to disassemble and redo. To recover from this goof, use a flashlight and look up the swingarm, to figure out how it lines up. Save a lot of time by noting how that shaft and yokes line up, when you pull the final drive off.

Bike actually is smoother now than before. I recommend looking down the swingarm and knowing for sure how the yokes are positioned.
Make a mark and then verify the yoke alignment, visually with a flashlight.

Poway screwed with this post 10-04-2012 at 03:01 PM
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:14 AM   #42
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GmanVic View Post
Thanks rutard. It looks like I am partly documenting for others, partly make lists for myself, and partly seeking psychoanalysis!

Your check-lists look fantastic! That's exactly the kind of thing that works well for me!

As for your question "Is there any reason you couldn't use a spanner / box-wrench to hold the retaining bolt while you torque the bearing bolt? This would allow access with your torque wrench." a 30mm box wrench would work well, for all except the torquing - the 12mm hex pivot pin goes in first and is torqued against the bearing to 7Nm, then the 30mm nut needs to be torqued to 15Nm, without the pivot pin moving. So either way, with the tool I concocted, or with a wrench, the pivot pin risks moving. (Unless there is such a thing as a box-end torque wrench?)...apparently there is! http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0218345 - but in my quick search I didn't find 30mm options!
And here are some other work-arounds: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/a.../t-128741.html

My Clymer manual says to put a mark on the pivot pin, once it is torqued, so when torquing the nut you can check the mark from time to time to see if the pivot pin is turning too. I am planning to:
1. Loctite and torque the pivot pin,
2. Let the loctite set for a day
3. Mark the pivot pin
4. Torque the nut, keeping an eye on the pivot pin mark.
I have R & Rd my pivots several times and applied the locknut torque without the pivot pin moving. Use the Loctite sparingly. Don't wait for a day to torque...do it within a minute or two. It will work just fine.
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:33 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
I have R & Rd my pivots several times and applied the locknut torque without the pivot pin moving. Use the Loctite sparingly. Don't wait for a day to torque...do it within a minute or two. It will work just fine.
The 7 nm torque seems to be enough to hold the pivot bolt in place when the lock nut is done up. I mark it with a paint-pen just in case, but they never seem to move.
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
I have R & Rd my pivots several times and applied the locknut torque without the pivot pin moving. Use the Loctite sparingly. Don't wait for a day to torque...do it within a minute or two. It will work just fine.
Yes, that worked, thanks. I marked the pin and yes she stayed put.
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:24 PM   #45
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Hey y'all!
Apparently this bike IS idiot-proof! Back together and riding and all feels GREAT!

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