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Old 04-07-2013, 06:14 PM   #61
AntonLargiader
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If you have a way to pull the seal, you're OK. It's normally installed from the outside. The rear input seal is the only one that has to be done from the inside.

That said, the front input seal usually sits pretty deep in the cover, so pulling it isn't the easiest thing. I'm not sure if I've ever done that.
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:21 PM   #62
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Thanks Anton. It doesn't look possible to pull, or install the new, front seal (the input shaft) from the outside. The rear (output) seal I managed no problem.
I'm starting to work up the courage to pull the cover...(fear of the unknown!;-)
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:34 AM   #63
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BTW the five bits in the picture are (clockwise from top):
- sleeve for fuel distribution line left side
- battery cable washer
- broken foam washer for shift linkage
- M6 wavy washer (maybe from under battery)
- cable clip for neutral/gear switch cables (two inside the swingarm cavity).
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:44 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
BTW the five bits in the picture are (clockwise from top):
- sleeve for fuel distribution line left side
- battery cable washer
- broken foam washer for shift linkage
- M6 wavy washer (maybe from under battery)
- cable clip for neutral/gear switch cables (two inside the swingarm cavity).
Someone really knows their Oilheads pretty well ...
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:49 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
BTW the five bits in the picture are (clockwise from top):
- sleeve for fuel distribution line left side
- battery cable washer
- broken foam washer for shift linkage
- M6 wavy washer (maybe from under battery)
- cable clip for neutral/gear switch cables (two inside the swingarm cavity).
Thank you Anton! Yes that all makes perfect sense and appears to be exactly right. IMPRESSIVE! :-)
Now that I have the transmission out again, I will put it back together with more care and this will help.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:53 AM   #66
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And by the way, my strategy with that seal is going to be:
1. Call the local BMW mechanic and ask what they would charge to change the seal
2. Pull apart my "spare" M97 (with the toasted input spline) to learn and explore.
3. Take what I learn from 1 and 2 to decide next step.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:57 PM   #67
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Success, Progress, and Beer

Okay, the strategy below worked, the seal is replaced and the trans is back in...it was tricky becuase of two things:
1. The old seal was pushed so far in that it appeared to be recessed. With gentle application of dental picks, Jeff, and optimism, out it came.
2. The M97 seal was not right so that was throwing me off. I bought a M94 seal "just in case" and that turned out to be the same as what came out.

So which do you want first, the good news or the bad news? Oh, I guess I get to decide...
GOOD: It was obvious why I had a leak, the new seal went in great, and I think the reason I took the beast part again is solved.
BAD: if it was the M94 seal that fit...does that mean I bought and installed a used M94 trans when I though (and sought) a M97? Serial number (0033953EAC) indicates M97 as near as I can tell. Or is possible that there is a "in between" trans that is a M97 but fits the older seal.... *sigh* I didn't think so!

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Originally Posted by GmanVic View Post
And by the way, my strategy with that seal is going to be:
1. Call the local BMW mechanic and ask what they would charge to change the seal
2. Pull apart my "spare" M97 (with the toasted input spline) to learn and explore.
3. Take what I learn from 1 and 2 to decide next step.
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:17 PM   #68
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Seal Clue

Rutard, I am rereading this thread as I prepare to resintall the the final drive... Yes, you called it below. And an excellent photo. Note that the photo shown looks just like my trans, including the SEAL that is BLACK and narrow. The one that doesn't fit my trans, that I was sold as the "M97 input shaft seal" by A&S is brown and wider. Do you know that the photo below is a M94 or M97? I am afraid I enbded up with a M94. :-(

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Hey Gman...I'm no expert, but I'll chime in to give you a bump.

If the leak is where the transmission and the engine meet, then it's coming from one of the two.

I'm gonna make an unscientific assumption that it's not coming from the engine side.

If you're sure it's Trans Fluid, then there aren't many places for leaks on the front side of the the transmission housing.

It could be coming from a crack in the casting, or a loose bolt, but most likely this is the culprit:

Most of the leaks I have read about occur at the Input Shaft Seal. I'm not an expert on these trannys, but there's no vent on the front housing to cause the leak.
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:15 PM   #69
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I don't know what you mean by M94 and M97 seal. There is only one fit. There have been upgrades to various seals (the output, I think, changed recently) but it's the same seal for all of them. What you may be mixing up is the rear input shaft seal and the front input shaft seal. They have the same OD but one is thinner.

EAC should be M97. If the bearing protrusion on the main housing (above the output shaft) has a double hump in it, that is nearly always an M97 (it changed just before the M97 came out).

If the shafts turn freely when in neutral, it's M97 because otherwise the M94 O-rings add a lot of drag.

M97s usually have a smoother painted finish to the case, too.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:39 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
I don't know what you mean by M94 and M97 seal. There is only one fit. There have been upgrades to various seals (the output, I think, changed recently) but it's the same seal for all of them. What you may be mixing up is the rear input shaft seal and the front input shaft seal. They have the same OD but one is thinner.

EAC should be M97. If the bearing protrusion on the main housing (above the output shaft) has a double hump in it, that is nearly always an M97 (it changed just before the M97 came out).

If the shafts turn freely when in neutral, it's M97 because otherwise the M94 O-rings add a lot of drag.

M97s usually have a smoother painted finish to the case, too.
Anton, thank you. The seals shown below are (bottom, brown) what I was sold as being the M97 input shaft seal by BMW dealer; and (top, black) what came out of the trans, and what BMW sold me when they said "well maybe it's an M94"...




And...based on the below photos can you identify if this is M97? Below are some shots of the output shaft area -- regarding the double hump you mentioned, I am not sure what you mean?



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Old 04-14-2013, 01:43 PM   #71
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Last picture shows you have the newer bearing on the intermediate shaft. It's pretty safe to say you have an M97, but the EAC alone is enough for that.

The light brown rubber seal is, I think, what they are now shipping for the output. I'm not doubting that you're confused about something, I just don't know what it is.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:48 PM   #72
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Thank you Anton! I am glad to hear it is an M97 as I had thought originally. My confusion (well, in this particular area ) seems to stem from BMW selling me the wrong seal and me using that seal as a reference marker. All good now and putting it together this week. Getting to be prime riding season here in BC!


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Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
Last picture shows you have the newer bearing on the intermediate shaft. It's pretty safe to say you have an M97, but the EAC alone is enough for that.

The light brown rubber seal is, I think, what they are now shipping for the output. I'm not doubting that you're confused about something, I just don't know what it is.
P.S. - If I decide to get the original M97 rebuilt...it will go straight to you, Anton!
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:13 PM   #73
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Here are the parts numbers that I have. I have NOT verified these against the actual seals:

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Old 04-21-2013, 03:09 PM   #74
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Progress today, but will need new tapered needle bearings for the final drive pivot. Will take the FD to the shop for them to press those out/in.

And a couple of notes. I am now using an electronic (pdf) BMW repair manual. I sure like the style better than my Clymer: everything is briefly stated, step by step, torques and clearances embedded in the procedure (no need to flip to a reference table), and the model-specific steps are prefixed with [GS] or [RT] or whatever.

The manual already paid for itself in the simplicity of installing the final drive housing, which I struggled with the boot before, but now I know how easy it is when done properly! And it told me the proper position of the circlip (horizontal as per the below).

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Old 04-21-2013, 03:12 PM   #75
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