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Old 12-30-2012, 09:43 AM   #91
broncobowsher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvangel View Post
Had some time this weekend, pulled all the plywood off so I could install the Insulation 1" High R board.



When pulling off the nose piece I saw this,



1-1/2" gap between the plywood and wall, right were all the water sprays up from the tow vehicle.



I expected more from Haulmark.
Not surprised.
Ordered a couple for work and specified 5k tie downs over the frame rails. They put nice 5k tie downs over the frame rails, bolted only to the plywood floor.
Next order we specified the 5k tie downs attached to the frame rails. Now we won't be pulling the floors out of the trailer cinching down pallets, so long as they rember to put the nuts on the bolts holding the tie downs in place. You get only what is specified, not what you were expecting.
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:49 PM   #92
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Looking at that picture I am amazed that someone cut that and looked at it and said that's good! Then the guy who painted the floor(and the wire and the steel said that's good! So I assume there quality control person said, yep...that's good!

When installing the insulation in the nose the lateral tubing is at 21" and then 27" and the 24" with the middle one about 1-1/2" out of "level" I guess 24" on center is tough to do? And again someone said...looks good!

Then installing the insulation in the ceiling not one beam is the same dimension from the next one and were up to 1-1/2" out of "square" but then some were correct? And the welder said LOOKS GOOD TO ME!
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:55 PM   #93
showkey
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Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
Not surprised.
.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^

MOST............Trailer construction is marginal at best...........my wiring junction connections were made in unsealed home construction metal box, the industry has the market cornered on scotch lock connectors......poor choice when connections are exposed to weather.

I redid the cargo hold downs as well.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:58 PM   #94
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The insulation is working out great, I work for a company that has a division that does spray foam so I could have had it done for free but was worried that it would fall apart from all the vibration and bouncing around.

My first choice for flooring was the Herculiner but did not want black and even though there website said it was available in colors none of there distributors seemed to know it?
Have you thought about an undercoat? I wondered about going to all the trouble of insulating the body and freezing or cooking because the floor isn't insulated. Would foam break down?
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:07 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by showkey View Post
^^^^^^^^^^^^^

MOST............Trailer construction is marginal at best...........my wiring junction connections were made in unsealed home construction metal box, the industry has the market cornered on scotch lock connectors......poor choice when connections are exposed to weather.

I redid the cargo hold downs as well.
You mean they stepped up to scotchlocks? I have seen household wire nuts used in trailer wiring.
Unsealed household eletrical box, that sounds about on par.

You did go and check all the welds in the frame to make sure they are all there, right? Quality control is generally most of the parts are installed when it leaves the factory and it is impressive enough that someone will buy it. I have seen some nice high quality factory built trailers, but they are proud of their work and the price reflects it. The discount trailer business is all about putting the cheapest product on the road possible while looking good enough to the buyer.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:35 AM   #96
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Have you thought about an undercoat? I wondered about going to all the trouble of insulating the body and freezing or cooking because the floor isn't insulated. Would foam break down?
For now I'm going to skip insulating the bottom, I really don't even plan on heating it and defiantly am not doing AC. If I heat it would be with a Buddy heater and am going to rely on fans for cooling but when and where we camp it has always been fine with neither so am figuring it will be that much better with the insulation I am doing now.

If I decide to later I can do the bottom with 2 pound(closed cell) and would do it after all my penetrations are done any way.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:38 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
You mean they stepped up to scotchlocks? I have seen household wire nuts used in trailer wiring.
Unsealed household eletrical box, that sounds about on par.

You did go and check all the welds in the frame to make sure they are all there, right? Quality control is generally most of the parts are installed when it leaves the factory and it is impressive enough that someone will buy it. I have seen some nice high quality factory built trailers, but they are proud of their work and the price reflects it. The discount trailer business is all about putting the cheapest product on the road possible while looking good enough to the buyer.
I have always viewed Haulmark as a higher end trailer (I was wrong), not like Featherlite or ATC,Mission but I higher quality than the ebay specials.

I will check the welds now that you mention it though, I did see that there are only a couple screws holding the back floor plywood down....
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Old 12-31-2012, 01:24 PM   #98
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Cam-O-Bunk

http://www.discobedusa.com/?products/2

I plan on using these in the trailer. They'll be handy for when the grandkids come over too.



Pretty cool the way they can be made into a couch.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:00 PM   #99
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I have a CamOcot setup, I used them in my Motovan and they worked great. Takes a few minutes to set up but very well made and not bad to sleep in.



I was going to use them for fold out beds like this,





Still might, thinking about what to do...
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:01 PM   #100
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Pretty cool the way they can be made into a couch.

How are they made into a couch?
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:08 PM   #101
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Nice!, I have had them for a few years and never saw that.




They end up being a little wide for my plan but would be lite weight and take up very little room.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:45 PM   #102
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After weighing the costs, price per cubic inch, use of space, weights, time involved, finishes and of course the coolness factor I have decided on these cabinets,

6' Base cabinet


6' upper cabinet


It is a bit of a change of plans for me but I think it will work, haven't ordered yet but probably will after I sleep on it.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:40 PM   #103
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After sleeping on it and re-measuring the trailer these cabinets are to big, gotta rethink it...

Floor tile showed up, looks nice!



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Old 01-04-2013, 05:11 PM   #104
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Parts keep rolling in, just have to get the time (and good weather) to start assembly.

I ordered this door knob to try and make work because a normal rv door latch would hit the lock bar, we'll see how this works.



Ceiling material, pvc wainscoting. I thought it would be easier to instal than 4x8 sheets.



And the second roof vent, no fan.



I should be able to work on it Sunday...we'll see.
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:39 PM   #105
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Parts keep rolling in, just have to get the time (and good weather) to start assembly.

I ordered this door knob to try and make work because a normal rv door latch would hit the lock bar, we'll see how this works.


.


5 inch back set would move the knob back another inch or so too away from the bar.
they even make longer ones if needed.

16-132-US3
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