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Old 08-10-2012, 06:28 PM   #1
Kevinhooa OP
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06 KLR Flooding - No Start

I have a little bit of time to tear into this problem tomorrow, but if I could narrow things down it would really help.

06 KLR with 31,300 miles. Riding home tonight I hit a rather deep soupy puddle. Only about 18-20 inches, but crap flung everywhere. Bike stuttered a little bit coming out of it but then ran fine for about 2 miles before dying when I let off the gas at the top of a small hill. No start after that.

- The t-mod has been done, and I checked the bottom tube which appeared clear.

- I opened the float bowl thinking maybe that was stuck, and gas continued to pour out and did not stop. That didn't seem right to me, usually the bowl empties and thats it right?

- Exhaust smelled like gas, which would tell me it's flooded.

- I checked the airbox and although the filter is a little dirty, there was no water in there. Good sign.

Seems like I might have some carb cleaning to do. What do you guys think?
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:49 PM   #2
GAS GUY
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Check the needle and seat and float level.
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:54 PM   #3
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Yep, concur wwith GG. Stuck float.
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:59 PM   #4
Kevinhooa OP
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Thanks guys. I'll try and get this sorted out before the ride tomorrow. Prob clean the filter while I'm at it.
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Old 08-13-2012, 06:22 AM   #5
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Got it running yesterday. Looks like there was some crud in where the slide operates which made it "hang up". Gave everything a go-over with carb cleaner, cleaned the filter and airbox, and got it running again. It was probably due for a cleaning anyway, this was just the bike's way of telling me it needs a little more "us" time! Lol

Thanks again guys.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:55 AM   #6
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"- I opened the float bowl thinking maybe that was stuck, and gas continued to pour out and did not stop."


if there was no vacuum source on the petcock then that ain't right in 2 ways. the needle & seat caused the running problem & sounds like its fixed but the petcock may still have a problem. it is supposed to shut off fuel flow when the bike is not running.... unless it has been altered. if the fuel never shuts off to the carb, the next time the needle leaks makes it likely to have a hydrolock and/or fill the crankcase with fuel. so, was your oil level high? does id smell like gas? might be time for an oil change.

the KLR has a manual off position
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Old 08-22-2012, 05:53 AM   #7
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Beezer - so do you think I have a petcock problem? How could I test if it was working properly. I didn't wait to see if the gas ever stopped with the float drain open. Could it have been from trying to start it too many times? I drained the float again when I cleaned the carb and it drained normally this time. When petcock is switched to off nothing comes out. Even after the tank has been off of the bike while cleaning everything. It's attached to an IMS if that matters at all.

I say this because I'm still having problems with this. After cleaning the carb the bike started fine and sounded good to me. I went to ride it the following monday and it wouldn't start again. So I looked up some more info and found something that pointed to it possibly being a fouled plug. New plug was $8 beans and I haven't replaced it in 20,000 miles or so. Figured it wouldn't hurt.

I replaced the plug and it started again. Dielectric grease on the top and antiseze on the threads. I even rode it 50 or so miles with 10-15 through the Pine Barrens and then to home. Didn't sputter or hiccup over the bumps at all like it did the first time I had this problem.

Now today it's not starting again. I did notice it made an odd noise twice while trying to start it. It's hard to describe but it sounded very similar to the noise a boat motor makes when you use the hydraulic assist to raise it up out of the water. Lol. I know kind of an odd noise description for a cycle engine noise, but I think that's the closest I got to describing it.

Could this be an intermittent bad coil or connection? Possibly a short in the wires somewhere? I'm guessing there is a way to test the resistance on something like that, but not sure that is the right troubleshooting route.
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Old 08-22-2012, 06:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevinhooa View Post
Beezer - so do you think I have a petcock problem? How could I test if it was working properly.
Beezer's an eminent authority; I don't presume to speak for him, but . . . he's on ALASKA time! Thus I'll offer some comments before he responds.

With an operational stock petcock, no fuel will flow when the engine is off, regardless of lever position.

When the engine is running, or when the engine is cranked for starting, vacuum actuates the petcock in the ON or RESERVE position, and fuel should flow into the carburetor under those conditions.

You can CHECK your petcock operation by disconnecting the fuel line at the carburetor, placing the end in a clear container, and cranking or running the engine. If the petcock is operational, fuel will flow freely, with the lever in either the ON or the RESERVE position.

When the carburetor float bowl fills with fuel, an operational float valve stops further fuel flow.

Otherwise, the engine needs spark, compression, and a combustible mixture to run. You can check for spark; apparently you have compression, and . . . a clean and correctly-adjusted carburetor provides a combustible mixture.

BTW, can't tell from your previous comment whether you actually removed and disassembled your carb for cleaning: "Looks like there was some crud in where the slide operates which made it "hang up". Gave everything a go-over with carb cleaner," If you merely sprayed carb cleaner around, some opportunities for manually cleaning jets, etc., internally may remain.

XDragRacer screwed with this post 08-22-2012 at 06:59 AM
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:25 AM   #9
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XDragRacer - I'm going to try and get this going tonight. I'll rule some problems out and maybe try and check the jets in the carb and see what I come up with.

I want to get this straightened out before I start to get things ready for a big trip I have planned in PA in 1 month. I don't want things to be haunting me on the trip.

Thanks again guys for the input.
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:31 AM   #10
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No Spark - Electrical?

Sorted through a couple of things.

Amongst some other carb stuff I checked, I also took the spark plug out, grounded at the fins on the upper cylinder and started it up. No spark.

So I'm trying to figure things out from here. I know typically in electrical you can test things from the end and work backwards until you find where the power gets cut off, or measure resistance in this case.

I checked the clymer and I have a device to measure the resistance. I was going to start at the Ignition Coil and work my way from there. However the Clymer doesn't give a setting to put on the tester (X10, X100, X1K) like it does for every other test. Accurate reading between the Black and Yellow/Black connections should be 10-50 so I figured I'd set the tester to X10 and it shoots right to 0.

I'm probably doing something wrong here, or maybe there's something else I can do to trouble shoot this.

What do you guys think?
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:51 AM   #11
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Before you go too far into it. Make sure you check the side stand switch and the clutch switch. These are prone to failure and can cause seemingly weird electrical issues.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:55 AM   #12
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Before you go too far into it. Make sure you check the side stand switch and the clutch switch. These are prone to failure and can cause seemingly weird electrical issues.
What he said. At the very least temporarily bypass both... That clutch switch in particular was designed by 2nd year Eng student who later flunked out of school and is now selling from a food court.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:47 AM   #13
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You can test gas flow out of the pet cock by sucking on the vacuum line from to the carb to the petcock. That is what the carb does.

Try testing the blk/w wire with the ignition switch in the on position. It is grounded to the blk/yellow when off. It may make a difference.

I usually test for current first and you can do that with most multimeters.

I assume you know that the ignition runs off A/C power from the stator, starting with the pick up coil.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
if there was no vacuum source on the petcock then that ain't right in 2 ways. the needle & seat caused the running problem & sounds like its fixed but the petcock may still have a problem. it is supposed to shut off fuel flow when the bike is not running.... unless it has been altered. if the fuel never shuts off to the carb, the next time the needle leaks makes it likely to have a hydrolock and/or fill the crankcase with fuel. so, was your oil level high? does id smell like gas? might be time for an oil change.
Good pointer. Both scenarios happened to my DRZ400S, crankcase filled with oil. I had to replace some parts in the carb and the entire petcock.
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
I assume you know that the ignition runs off A/C power from the stator, starting with the exciter coil.
Fixed.

The pickup coil triggers a thyristor discharging the CDI's capacitor through the ignition coil when the rotor's timing mass passes by, creating a spark.

(Ignition AC-powered on Generation 1 only.)
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