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Old 08-23-2012, 12:45 PM   #16
timekeeper
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I have 4 Airheads..all with dipstick gauges (all accurate, boiling water test).
The 3 Airheads (one on a EML sidecar) never get above 245F, as as soon as the cooler opens everything stays there.
On the R100T, without a cooler, it can get to 260F on a hot day of constant 5000RPM running (interstate).
Thank god for good oil:)
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:46 PM   #17
naginalf
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That VDO setup is definitely on my wishlist, thanks for posting! I have the RR meat thermometer and hate it. It's mostly because I have a PD. It scratches the tank first of all, although the PO did a fine job of installing a piece of paintable tape to keep from going into the tank's plastic. Also because of the large tank, you have to be stopped to read it, having to lean way over to see it. And from what I'm reading from you guys, it reads a little high due to higer temps in the upper crankcase (heat goes up after all). Also, it burns the piss out of my fingers when I try to check the oil and then it never wants to screw out, the rough ass outer rings chews up my already burnt fingers not to mention fiddling around with it between the cables. And then, I can hardly tell where the oil line is on the smooth, shiny stick . I'll sell ya mine for $20 and a stock dipstick!
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:29 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by naginalf View Post
That VDO setup is definitely on my wishlist, thanks for posting! I have the RR meat thermometer and hate it. It's mostly because I have a PD. It scratches the tank first of all, although the PO did a fine job of installing a piece of paintable tape to keep from going into the tank's plastic. Also because of the large tank, you have to be stopped to read it, having to lean way over to see it. And from what I'm reading from you guys, it reads a little high due to higer temps in the upper crankcase (heat goes up after all). Also, it burns the piss out of my fingers when I try to check the oil and then it never wants to screw out, the rough ass outer rings chews up my already burnt fingers not to mention fiddling around with it between the cables. And then, I can hardly tell where the oil line is on the smooth, shiny stick . I'll sell ya mine for $20 and a stock dipstick!
I guess you don't believe in the KISS principle or maybe the fact that my fingers don't have much feeling left at the ends anyway. But, hanging off the bike to look at the gauge...well that's just heaven
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:34 PM   #19
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My gauge only differs from the one pictured by the blue marks on it to denote the oil is cold, it has blue on the scale till about 165f....
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:44 PM   #20
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I wanna know why a standard VDO oil temp gauge with a black face costs $30, but the same white faced one costs $60? Is white paint at a premium or something?
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by R100RT Mark View Post
Anyone have any concerns about using the sender as the drain plug?
Looks like it ought to work well. Use a new sealing washer each time (I'm sure you know that) and be careful when installing/removing the "plug" so as not to damage the sending unit (I'm sure you know that).
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Old 08-23-2012, 02:55 PM   #22
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Looks like it ought to work well. Use a new sealing washer each time (I'm sure you know that) and be careful when installing/removing the "plug" so as not to damage the sending unit (I'm sure you know that).
I can say mine never leaks and has been on there for years. The guy bought it like ten years ago and it works now that I fixed the wiring. Even the light works now.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:56 PM   #23
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:11 PM   #24
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Putting oil temp and pressure gages on an airhead or an old VW bus is going to get you nothing but ass cramps and ruin your ride, there some things best not known.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:17 AM   #25
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Putting oil temp and pressure gages on an airhead or an old VW bus is going to get you nothing but ass cramps and ruin your ride, there some things best not known.
Ha! I had the dip stick temp gauge. My old timer airhead pal said "Git rid that thang, it'll just drive you crazy."
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:05 AM   #26
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CRAYDDS:WHEN YOU ARE CRAZY TO START WITH....IT DOSEN'T BOTHER ME AT ALL
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:08 AM   #27
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You will need a 45degree adapter to first put in the oil sender threaded hole with the correct thread pitch then the "output" of that adpter have the correct thread pitch for the oil sending unit (you can have a oil sending unit with 2 poles - 1 for the oil pressure guage the other pole you reattach the idiot light so you have the idiot oil pressure lite on the dash working as well) Most of these sending units and VDO guages can source from any Airhead VW special supply houses e.g. http://www.cip1.com/

Reason for adapter is you will not have enough room between cylinder barrel and oil pressure hole for the sending unit...I tried and it won't fit (unless you can find a smaller sending unit)

I've never found a source for the 45degree adapter...lots of 90's....90's won't work unless you put a line from that adapter t oa sending unit located elsewhere.

Had this set up on my 82 RS but then a broke the 45degree adapter few years ago while doing pushrod tube seals...

I don't have any pics of that set up....later I went to a plug in the oil galley (left side just below gearbox on engine) and fabed an adpter and nylon plastic line to the sending unit located by the battery box....can get pix of that set up. I couldn't find a 45 degree adapter anywhere at the time....lotsa 90 but no 45.

Nice to have but just another farkle to drive you crazy...you're call.

I have both oil pressure and oil temp guages on my RS...


That's a Wudo RS dashboard with 4 guage cluster ....not available anymore.

NOTE: Have to get the correct sending unit both for the oil pressure units for an airhead (range) and for the guage units (PSI or Bars)..

Think there was a thread about using a 90degree adapter then running a copper(?) pipe or brakelkine pipe from it along the frame rail up to a sending unit near the battery box...might have been Max Headroom (Nick)...he has some really well engineered stuff on his bikes...think he posts here..yes he does I just read his comments!

Good luck
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Old 08-24-2012, 06:23 AM   #28
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Mine works great but I never really use it and it doesn't bug me at all. I have the correct volt gauge fo rthe hole were I to sell my oil temp gauge and sender. I like the idea of knowing what the temp is so I GUESS if it got really high like above 280 or so I would kow to check my oil. Even though I check my oil every other ride. And this thing doesn't leak or use oil, it just has a tiny seem round the oil pan which I will fix next time I do the oil and filter change.
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Old 08-24-2012, 07:42 AM   #29
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""
"Think there was a thread about using a 90degree adapter then running a copper(?) pipe or brakelkine pipe from it along the frame rail up to a sending unit near the battery box...might have been Max Headroom (Nick)...he has some really well engineered stuff on his bikes"

yep I remeber seeing that thread, and it is a clean set up, one someday I will duplicate on my bike. I will also switch to a different idiot light sending unit, that will kick on at 15psi instead of the bmw one of 7psi
you can get copper or silver brake line pipe, but I will hunt for a black line when the time comes

back to original question, I dont have a dipstick temp gauge, or any temp gauge. but if I throw a thermal gun on my cylinders after a long ride, I run about 215 to 220 degrees . not sure if that helps know oil temp

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Old 08-24-2012, 11:05 AM   #30
moosehead
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For bikes with an oil cooler I think an oil temp guage is overkill...I know I have one on my 82 RS but I really would like to put this set up on a non-oilcooler bike. IMHO that would be more important info.

BTW, my oil cooled RS pretty well stays at the same temp reading all the time but in real cooler times I cover the oil cooler so oil does have a chance to warm up (I don't have thermostat oil filter cover...just a GS type cover with no thermostat) I did notice in cool weather (5-10C) that oil barely gets warmed up for quite a while that's why I cover it off...to let the oil get warmer. Guess if had thermostat cover then it would keep oil circulating in engine rather than through oil cooler

I'm too cheap to buy a new one...a piece of plastic over the cooler in cold weather works wonders!
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