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Old 09-14-2012, 01:11 PM   #16
roger 04 rt
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Here's a temporary version of an add-on pressure regulator in the fuel return line for testing. It has worked out well. This will be better mounted, and with Oetiker clamps, in a fashion similar to the IBMWR external filter mod. Hoses will be dressed away from all moving parts. Any thoughts on a better location ... other than in the tank? ;)


roger 04 rt screwed with this post 09-14-2012 at 02:56 PM
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:19 AM   #17
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We all know what Goober thinks.
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Old 09-21-2012, 04:24 PM   #18
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Roger, it seems like you've read the posts on increasing fuel pressure for better atomization. 3.2 bar has been reported as sweet spot. Too much pressure is counter-productive.

Why are you still using the oem fuel distributor if you have new external?

Hasenwerk posted his mod here, check out his pics as well as those on RB Racing. Most won't need external fuel pressure regulator but it is a cool mod which seems to have several benefits. Others should at least request a new BMW fuel distributor when the frame is lifted and where the old one is > 7 years. That is arbitrary number since exposure to UV light, chemicals, physical stress determine how fast the black nylon ages.

Thermal Over-Tube available:
Just discovered a source for thermal over-tube: Reno Hydraulics. Incredible abrasion resistant outer layer plus what looks like asbestos inner weave. Dark orange in color, not sure if available in black. Use of this over-tube/sheath should completely alleviate any fear of fuel hose damage from heat or rubbing. Seems to be oem on some cars and on O2 sensor wires.

BTW, Jo Momma, the Basement is the correct forum on here to write parody of TV sitcom. POV can be welcome but 8 times in one thread? Most will prefer to read tips on employing proper technique, use of better materials and of preventing known failure modes.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:31 PM   #19
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I see.

Goober has left the building...........
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagerider View Post
Roger, it seems like you've read the posts on increasing fuel pressure for better atomization. 3.2 bar has been reported as sweet spot. Too much pressure is counter-productive.

Why are you still using the oem fuel distributor if you have new external?

Hasenwerk posted his mod here, check out his pics as well as those on RB Racing. Most won't need external fuel pressure regulator but it is a cool mod which seems to have several benefits. Others should at least request a new BMW fuel distributor when the frame is lifted and where the old one is > 7 years. That is arbitrary number since exposure to UV light, chemicals, physical stress determine how fast the black nylon ages.

Thermal Over-Tube available:
Just discovered a source for thermal over-tube: Reno Hydraulics. Incredible abrasion resistant outer layer plus what looks like asbestos inner weave. Dark orange in color, not sure if available in black. Use of this over-tube/sheath should completely alleviate any fear of fuel hose damage from heat or rubbing. Seems to be oem on some cars and on O2 sensor wires.

BTW, Jo Momma, the Basement is the correct forum on here to write parody of TV sitcom. POV can be welcome but 8 times in one thread? Most will prefer to read tips on employing proper technique, use of better materials and of preventing known failure modes.
Asbestos...really?
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:47 PM   #21
roger 04 rt
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If you look at my Wideband O2 thread I've boosted the fuel pressure to 52 psi or about 3.6 bar. I've also shifted lambda from 1 (stock) to 0.94 which matches the FP increase.

I've left the stock regulator in place for two reasons:

--I'm too lazy to lift the tail right now

--At some point in the future I may pull the external regulator and install a 3.5 bar which gets me into the ballpark.

My next step is to permanently mount the regulator and properly dress the hoses. It can be done well. I'll end up with the same number of QDs as stock, two.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:26 PM   #22
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If you have done canisterectomy now is a good time to clean up those hoses too.
Cut them back to within six inches of the fuel plate thingy, add a $2 Y, now run just one hose to the location by the rear brake master. Remove all the other ugly hose, also the battery overflow hose if it's still there. Now it looks real sanitary in that area by the brake master.

For simplification I no longer use QD's on the fuel lines, just not worth it to me.
Just for fun you can use different color hose on fuel lines. Our local aircraft place had black hose and blue hose, so now I have a quick visual of what is what.

Don't forget to use 'blank' hose clamps designed for FI and not the 'worm' drive that dig in to your hose.

Mini brake/fuel/whatever temp shut off clamps are about $4 at Pep-Boys. Carry two in your pocket, you'll be a hero.
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:23 AM   #23
roger 04 rt
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Without going into the why I've add the fuel pressure regulator here (okay, to shift the Motronic Open Loop fuel table 10% richer, 4% to accommodate E10 plus 6% for my Wideband O2 at Lambda = 0.94), I found a really good spot for a professional installation. By using this I have eliminated the BoosterPlug that I had previously installed.

The Aeromotive 13301 comes with a mounting bracket of soft steel which was easy to put a 90 degree twist in. It is bolted using the front frame strut attachment, near the alternator. Currently the pressure is set to about 53.5 psi. You can see the FPR vent to atmosphere to which I later attached a vent hose.

Goober would like this better than the tie-wrap version.

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