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Old 10-27-2012, 03:21 PM   #1
dmftoy1 OP
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Location: Lexington, IL
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Pressure plate balance and clutch plate question.

Ok, so I'm going to be replace my rear main seal and oil pump o-ring. Took the clutch out today and I mic'd it @ 5.36mm and minimum appears to be 4.5 mm. As near as I can tell from the manual I've got about 2/3rd of the service life left. Would you replace it while you're in there or just go with it?

Ok, now for the more important question. Didn't realize that the 74's don't have any balance marks on them. I'm about 80% sure I've made the correct index marks on pressure plate and flywheel but is there any way to be 100% sure or is it a matter of tearing it all down and reindexing pressure plate to flywheel if I have noticeable vibration?



Any/all input gratefully accepted.

Have a good one,
Dave
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Old 10-27-2012, 03:33 PM   #2
disston
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I would use it. Some might see some advantage to fresher parts but I would rather spend money on stuff I think I need. Maybe I'm just cheep.

No worry about balance. The advice to mark the parts and return to original is over rated.

With the new seal, did you set to original depth with the tool? This is something that should be done. A lot of seals get driven in till they are flush with the engine block. They may work at this depth but it is more correct for the seal to be a couple of mm proud of the bore in the block. When I did mine several years ago I found the old seal driven in till it was flush with the surrounding rear face of the block. I could see by the part of the flywheel the seal rode on that it was running on the very edge of the flywheel. Installed new seal to a more proper depth so it rode a litter higher on the flywheel.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:26 AM   #3
dmftoy1 OP
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Doing seal today so ill set my seal driver stops based on old one before I pull it. :)
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:51 AM   #4
chollo9
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65%? I'd definitely use it.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:18 AM   #5
disston
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That seal installer tool makes this job a lot easier. The rear seal is just a little too big to be driving in with a hammer and a block of wood. And it's difficult to get the right depth with a hammer.
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:45 PM   #6
ME 109
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Don't forget to block the crank!
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:47 PM   #7
Martian
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When I replaced my clutch plate, etc, there were no marks on the new parts. So, I put it all together before mounting it on the bike, and suspended the grouping from a piece of rope run through the middle of everything. It took several times of repositioning, but eventually, the flywheel/clutch assy stayed level when suspended from the rope. The bike is really smooth.

FWIW/YMMV
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:01 PM   #8
Wirespokes
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I'd also continue with the original clutch disc. I like to get my money's worth out of stuff. Don't bin it till it's used up.

Some have been fairly close to balanced no matter how I positioned the parts, and others weren't. I suspend the parts like Martian and they come out smooth.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:39 PM   #9
bmwrench
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Whether you renew the clutch parts depends on what size motor you have. The '70-'80 clutch can barely handle a stock 1000cc motor, but is adequate for the 750-800cc motor. If it's an R100 and there is any grooving of the pressure plates or wear on the disk, it will slip.
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:35 AM   #10
ME 109
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I think the clutch in my 81rs is just about bullet proof.
I put a new friction plate in towards the end of the last millennium and it's still going strong
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:57 PM   #11
bmwhacker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by me 109 View Post
don't forget to block the crank!



+1
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