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Old 12-31-2012, 05:03 AM   #61
motormail OP
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Got some very bad news from OTR today saying: Due to very low request we actually do not know if and when we will offer
the 26Ltr OTR fibre tank kit again. Bugger.......



I also asked about supply of the OTR rally fairing kit to suit the 26Ltr big tank and they said: The rally fairing for the stock tank
can be adjusted to be used with that 26l tank, but not vice versa.



That's probably some good news as it might fit the Gillimoto tank being that's now the only option for a larger tank. Anyone
know how much different the Gillimoto tank is in shape to the stock radiator shrouds? Might just work when you compare
boneman660's with supamanaint's?



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Old 01-01-2013, 01:15 AM   #62
John 171
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bark busters

Hi Flickit.
I have the VPS Bark Busters, Pro Tapper Bars and no weights fitted to my R and have not felt anymore vibration through the bars than when it was standard. I have done a few all day and multi day rides with this set up with no ill effects. Hope this information helps.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:40 PM   #63
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For anyone who may be interested, there is a nice 09 660R on Bikesales Vic for $4000.
Has the metal mule pipe, bash plate etc. 25000ks.

I stumbled across it a couple of days and messaged the owner for a mate, its still for sale but my mate isnt in the position to buy it atm.

Seems to be a very cheap bike.
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:54 AM   #64
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XT660R

Anybody know a slightly longer clutch cable (maybe from another Yamaha?) that will fit? I got some 30mm bar raisers but I'm not game to use them....the cable seems pretty tight standard.

What about the air box? A couple of times lately I've noticed the slightest trace of dust in the air box. I'm using the standard style filter from OTR....the only difference to the Yamaha one is the seal foam is not quite as dense. I put a bit of grease on it everytime I check it.
OR... the leak could be around the cover. I notice it has no seal but relies just on the lip of the box in the groove of the cover. I put a bit of grease around this too. Is it worth trying to put a "seal" of "O" ring material or similar in that groove?

And what about the cush drive. I'm on my second set at 14,000 k's and probably due for new ones again with the next tyre. Even getting them from OTR it's going to be an expensive proposition in the long run. What's the solution? Anyone know anything about those blue ones I saw a picture of somewhere?

All info gratefully received.
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:02 AM   #65
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Hey Woop,

Here's a cush drive rubber fix the South African boys use, apparently gets them 15,000 to 20,000 kms out of a set - heavy duty tube strips



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Old 01-06-2013, 04:27 AM   #66
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Question Clutch Cable...

Quote:
Originally Posted by woopwoop View Post
XT660R

Anybody know a slightly longer clutch cable (maybe from another Yamaha?) that will fit? I got some 30mm bar raisers but I'm not game to use them....the cable seems pretty tight standard.

What about the air box? A couple of times lately I've noticed the slightest trace of dust in the air box. I'm using the standard style filter from OTR....the only difference to the Yamaha one is the seal foam is not quite as dense. I put a bit of grease on it everytime I check it.
OR... the leak could be around the cover. I notice it has no seal but relies just on the lip of the box in the groove of the cover. I put a bit of grease around this too. Is it worth trying to put a "seal" of "O" ring material or similar in that groove?

And what about the cush drive. I'm on my second set at 14,000 k's and probably due for new ones again with the next tyre. Even getting them from OTR it's going to be an expensive proposition in the long run. What's the solution? Anyone know anything about those blue ones I saw a picture of somewhere?

All info gratefully received.
Hi Dave,

Had a similar problem to you with the clutch cable. As we both stand over 6' in our riding boots, I found the standing position on the XT cramped, so on went the 30mm raisers. This made the clutch cable ridiculously tight. So I went to the local Yamaha shop for a solution (not that helpful) next stop the Husquvarna shop. "Yep we can make a new clutch cable for you, but before we do that lets see if we can re-route the cable for you."

Guess I'd better buy a 900 Nuda from them for being so helpful

So cable re-routed, tightness gone, at zero cost. Standing ergonomics just about right...

Here's some photos Dave:





Don't know if this is the right thing to do, but so far so good
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:54 PM   #67
woopwoop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motormail View Post
Hey Woop,

Here's a cush drive rubber fix the South African boys use, apparently gets them 15,000 to 20,000 kms out of a set - heavy duty tube strips

Thanks motormail, I'll give that a go......and I like the price!

I still wouldn't mind finding out about those blue ones though, if anyone knows anything about them.




Quote:
Originally Posted by boneman660 View Post
Hi Dave,

Had a similar problem to you with the clutch cable. As we both stand over 6' in our riding boots, I found the standing position on the XT cramped, so on went the 30mm raisers. This made the clutch cable ridiculously tight. So I went to the local Yamaha shop for a solution (not that helpful) next stop the Husquvarna shop. "Yep we can make a new clutch cable for you, but before we do that lets see if we can re-route the cable for you."

Guess I'd better buy a 900 Nuda from them for being so helpful

So cable re-routed, tightness gone, at zero cost. Standing ergonomics just about right...



Don't know if this is the right thing to do, but so far so good
Thankyou Jason. That seems pretty straightforward. I'll give it a go.
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:35 PM   #68
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Hey Woop,

Also found these, gotta love the Germans, the only mob making an aftermarket set of cush drive rubbers by the looks of it. Cost $29.50 Aus plus $37.50 Aus in postage and cheaper than OTR. Would love to know how these go.

Link to ebay item here

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motormail screwed with this post 01-06-2013 at 11:59 PM
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:51 AM   #69
woopwoop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motormail View Post
Hey Woop,

Also found these, gotta love the Germans, the only mob making an aftermarket set of cush drive rubbers by the looks of it. Cost $29.50 Aus plus $37.50 Aus in postage and cheaper than OTR. Would love to know how these go.

Link to ebay item here

Looks interesting....especially if we could get the postage charges down a bit.

I found those others......in the Aus. Tenere thread.....but they look the same..... I'll check a bit further.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....postcount=4070

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Old 01-07-2013, 12:57 AM   #70
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Clutch cable stuff

If anyone's looking for cables you can speak to Beerwah Mechanical Services ... home to the Suncoast Cable Company 5494 0000.

They make up to your pattern - just provide them the old cable.

They've done a few for me ~$50.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:14 AM   #71
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Finally got my broken pig home. Here she is in bits 1 hour later.



Yet to straighten the rear end




Rather cactarse
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:24 AM   #72
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Then started work on why it would blow the ignition fuse every time the key was turned on. Thanks to my neighbour Mike, you champion and a six pack later, we found this:

When it was dropped, the kill switch had blown to bits inside, so cut the wire and joined the kill switch wires


Next, Mike champion found the dropping of the bike on the right side had pushed the coil onto a bolt, which cut through the plastic and shorting the electrics.


Then pressed the go button and bugger me the pig lives....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=xbX-DKtNV7E
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Old 01-08-2013, 05:27 PM   #73
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Eek Hard to kill!

These motors don't have a reputation for being hard to kill for nothin' eh!

Will follow your resurrection of this pig with interest!

Boneman
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:28 AM   #74
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1st attempt at straightening the sub-frame....my experience with Yamaha frame and built in sub frame combo's is they've bent like butter, so I tried the soft option on the XT660R first with ropes as not to go bezerk and bend to far. Well ferk me, no wonder these pigs weigh so much, even the sub-frame is built like a tank, so had to pull out the chain hoist and get serious.

The old neighborooney (Mike the Boral mechanic) came across as he heard a bit of a racket, then beers arrived and a lot of discussion as to where it should be pulled, whacked with a hammer (which turned into sledge hammer) and bent with a crowbar followed, along with more beers, 38 + degree heat just invites one to drink beer...dam it, too much work to do on pig, want to go riding ASAP.



So how does one attempt to straighten the sub-frame on an XT660R pig, not so simple....but one can strap the rear wheel to a pole, tie the non bent side at the front to another pole, then attach the block and tackle to the rear bent side and start pulling the chain block to a point where you think it is just to far then go some more. The flex in these sub-frames is just astonishing.



Even after all this pulling, whacking and bending, it still isn't enough. Will have to take to the diagonals under the seat with a porta power, close but not home yet.

.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:26 AM   #75
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Forgot to take some photos of the porta power in action, but the results speak for themselves, piggy is very near almost straight. Right hand muffler just needs to come up a bees dick and because the seat has been sitting in a bent position for so long it stayed that way so will have to take to it with the heat gun to bring it back. Or I could just plant my fat arse on it and go for a descent ride...same heated outcome.







Can't wait to remove those 2 x counter weight mufflers off her fat arse and slip on the Metal Mule 2 in 1 system. Decided to go with the Metal Mule mainly because it came in well under the $1k Aus therefore no import duties unlike any of the OTR exhaust systems which were way over that mark.

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