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Old 10-26-2012, 01:33 PM   #1
Kenbike OP
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Pulling and reinstalling heads

I planning on pulling my heads and throttle bodies in 3 or 4 weeks and sending to Power Tripp for a port job and blueprint the throttle bodies. Will raise the compression ratio slightly and rework the heads to improve mid range punch. I will be removing and installing the heads my self. I assume it is not to bad and wanted to see if any one has pulled and reinstalled them with the engine still in the bike?
I will also will remove the exhaust header and have it coated to help reduce engine heat. I just can't swing the cost of selling my for $8000 and buying a new 1190 for $15000 and it still needing $2500 in farkles so this is my route.
Hopefully will pick up 7 to 10 hp and my Bazzaz auto tuen can remap for the increased flow.
Currently have a Moto Hooligan air box and RC8 intake trumpets with a Remus Roxx 2 into 1 system with out the baffle.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:49 PM   #2
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Front head shouldn't be a problem, might need to remove the radiator; it's the rear that might be a bit messy. I'd almost drop the engine though. It doesn't take that long beyond what's necessary to get to the heads.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:43 PM   #3
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I was reviewing th4e service manual. Can you remove the head and leave the cylinder jug and piston in place on the LC8?
It shows pulling the entire assembly. How tough is it resetting the cam timing on these bikes??
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenbike View Post
How tough is it resetting the cam timing on these bikes??
I have never done this but I think you simply have to align all the dots and marks on the various gears (clutch hub, starter, ignition trigger wheel, balancer shaft etc) to have the timing correctly set, before installing the camshafts (with the marks lined up properly) and buttoning up the bridges.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenbike View Post
I was reviewing th4e service manual. Can you remove the head and leave the cylinder jug and piston in place on the LC8?
It shows pulling the entire assembly. How tough is it resetting the cam timing on these bikes??
Follow the manual, it's very easy and no hectic issues, just make a crankshaft holder bolt to hold the crankshaft at TDC.

It is possible but finicky to just leave the barrels in place as there are bolts that go back up through the barrel into the head to facilitate just taking the the whole head off and not having to replace the head gaskets. But as you are going to be doing port work you'll have to get them apart.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:56 PM   #6
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Just tilting the engine forward will be enough, tho it require removing alot of electrical wires and stuff so its not super easy, replaced the rear cylinder base gasket:

http://www.dirtyadv.com/ktm-950-adve...t-replacement/

/Johan
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:53 PM   #7
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Cool2 Take it All Off, Baby!

Drop the engine it'll make life so much easier!

When you pull the heads you are going to loose the compression of the base gasket, which is an area that has had problems on these bikes. You're going to want to inspect the base anyway to see if the cylinder assembly has been hammering it. See here (or goggle Pyndon base gasket)

Q: Why would you want to raise the compression further than it's already-high 11.5:1? Assuming it's a street bike you're going to have to run the best gas you can find (I hear 20% ethanol is the new goal in the USA). How are you going to accomplish this?

The ports on these heads are atrocious- Marc Salvisberg of Factory Pro/Wheelsmith Racing talked about seeing up to 15hp on his dynos from cleaning up the ports! Casting remnants & irregularities with machining that KTM seemed to make no effort to blend surrounding surfaces! This is something other companies (including the Japanese "Big Four" with their higher production rates) have been paying attention to for years now. Polish the exhaust to a mirror finish, while the intake should have some texture in it to keep the fuel atomized in the air stream... smooth the ends of the valve guides in the direction of flow but don't remove any length from them so they can support the valves as much as possible.

Since you've got it down this far measure your valve springs for height & compression, and remember to send your intake manifold rubber boots so they can be matched with the intake ports/throttle bodies.

You're gonna love it when it gets back together!
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:12 PM   #8
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I guess you make a good point about compression ratio, it may not be a good idea to raise it past 11.5 to 1.
I really like your hp increase you feel is possible with a 990, given the hp ratings of the super duke it makes sense that a worked over adv should be 110 -115 hp.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:10 PM   #9
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Would a pair of SD or SDR heads, cams and throttle bodies make a better starting point?
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:34 AM   #10
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I wonder that mt self, I posted over on the Super Duke site. Not much on this site for guys hot rodding the motor on the Adventure.
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Old 11-01-2012, 04:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenbike View Post
I wonder that mt self, I posted over on the Super Duke site. Not much on this site for guys hot rodding the motor on the Adventure.
i only found one topic from some body who did some port work.
http://www.superduke.net/forum/viewt...esion&start=75

The SD heads should be the same as from a 990ADV just check the part numbers.
The SDR head have some higher compression if i'm not mistaking but check the part numbers then you know for sure.
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