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Old 08-27-2012, 09:35 PM   #16
mspa OP
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What are those other two gauges? Nice pics. I see the ignition was relocated . . . or is that a steering lock?
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:21 AM   #17
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Welcome to the forum mspa! You've got a great start on a nice bike!

It sort of looks like the original turn signal stalks were bent up to get them out of the way? I'm not particularly wild about the 'turn-signals-mounted-in-the-headlight-ears' approach.

I've run my bikes without gaiters, but then again, haven't ridden gravel roads that much with the street bikes. And when I have, just took it easy and there wasn't any traffic so no kicked up stones. Maybe I've been lucky, but I do like the look of the bare fork tubes.

I agree - ditch the bar backs! Hate the way they feel and look!

You know, my consideration is that turning these bikes into cafe racers or stripping them down uglifies them. Looks go down hill from here. And it's not that I'm a purist, I just like the way they look in stock form.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:26 AM   #18
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Thanks Wirespokes!

I don't ride on gravel. Period. I'll get a dirt bike if I do that.

I think the turn signal stalks just look that way in the photo. When I bring the bike down to you in a month or so, you'll see. That's a small thing for me, but I supose it's worth looking at down the road.

I have decided to ditch the barbacks. Solutions, options links to what I should consider??? I'll look at my Clymers and see what this involves . . . unless someone can share a link that describes the process better.

I'm a bit paranoid about my front tire now. I want to flip it around soon, but I don't want to lose riding days to work. I may see what a shop will do and just put the new Metzler on since this one is compromised now.

mspa screwed with this post 08-28-2012 at 09:45 AM
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:19 AM   #19
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I don't worry about bugs. I wear fork boots for rocks. Black tops have plenty of them. I ride with guys that are on 100hp plus bikes with giant super sticky radials kicking up every rock on the road. That or a CRF450 with motard racing slicks. Cars can do it too! Fork tubes are pricy! I learned my lesson with my LS. At around 80k miles I needed new tubes for rock dings. I filed them down every chance I got but . . . .
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:12 PM   #20
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It would be nice to just put the fork tubes on but then when you get to taking this part of the bike apart you always end up doing more than you planned. make sure you have some fork oil, a way to measure it and new seals. The large plastic bumper in the bottom of the slider is also always bad, in fact it often seems to be missing. It just dissolved.

Grease for the bearings.

Maybe you don't ride in traffic as heavy as SS but what he says often is a key element that others miss. I always listen to this guy.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:07 PM   #21
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I'll keep an eye on them, and when I'm about ready for servicing the forks, I'll do it all at once. Makes perfect sense what you say about getting int to do one thing and before you know it, you are in DEEP.

I have to start compiling a list of maintenance stuff to order in the near future. I'll get some more plugs then. They are certainly easy to swap, so no worries there.

My first priority now, and quickest win-win, is dealing with the barbacks. In a couple months, maybe less, I'll be visiting Wirespokes :)
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Old 08-29-2012, 08:25 AM   #22
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Gee, he might even take a bath for that.
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:48 PM   #23
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I hope he does :)

So new concern popped up. During warmup at work this evening before coming home, I noticed the steering cap nut vibrating a little and moving counterclockwise, as in loosening

I tightened by hand as best I could and rode home. I get home and take a closer look and end up removing it to see what's under it and make sure there is no damage. I notice with the cap off, the tube inside is not aligned, unless I pull up on the forks a little. Putting the cap back on, I realize that in order for the cap to seat on the triple tree, I need to lift the forks to center that tube and I hand tighten to where you see in this photo.



Another angle from top. I don't have a wrench that will fit or a socket. But I'm thinking about getting a socket tomorrow. Does anyone know what size the nut is? I found it on microfiche at Max BMW, and another site, but no size is mentioned. I'm sure I can go to O'Reilly's Auto and they'll let me take a couple of sockets out.



Anything to be concerned about?
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:00 PM   #24
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I find those and the fork caps loose a lot. It's suppose to be torqued to 76ftlbs I believe. 36mm. Tightening the locknut will change your bearing preload! Keep track of that!
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:12 PM   #25
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Here's where I show some ignorance . . . what is the bearing preload. I know some bikes have a dampner knob, so does preload act similar in slowing down the rate of steering motion?

And is keeping track of that mean note in my riding journal when I torqued it to 76 ftlbs ?? Orrrr, maybe to keep an eye on it to make sure I tighten it again before it starts vibrating loose?

So many questions

I have notice the engine vibration increase, which is perhaps why seeing the cap nut vibrate was not so much a surprise . . . so I am assuming that it might be time to learn how to make some adjustments. I have Snowbum's (bmwmotorcycletech) article on synchronizing carbs . . . but that looks like a serious weekend learning experience that might be more fun learning with someone local who can show me. I'm one of those guys that learns visually, than by reading.

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Old 08-30-2012, 10:12 AM   #26
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I now have a legitimate reason to swap the barbacks. I have to remove those to get a socket around the cap nut. Talked to the local BMW dealer and I'm not paying $100 to tighten. Torque wrench and socket will cost about $55-60, and I'll need again at some point . . . but since I have to remove the barbacks, I might as well put new risers in. I am concerned about the controls on my Superbike bar possibly getting in the way of the fairing upper braces, so I'm preparing myself for a more involved "fix" to the problem.

I also want to get my Napoleon mirrors on, but don't want to mess with that until I know I'm keeping the current bar, grips, etc.

As we know in mechanical things . . . one thing turns into many
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:34 PM   #27
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There are two wrenches that belong in your tool kit for this. One is sometimes called the Dog Bone wrench. It has the 27mm socket on one end, for the swing arm lock nuts. And the 36mm box end wrench for the lock nut on top of the fork. The other wrench is a hook wrench that has two pins in one end, for the fork tube caps. And the hook wrench that fits the slotted nut under the nut you had come loose. You may use substitutes for these tools but the tool kit wrenches will do the job.

Bearing Preload; Applicable to all tapered roller bearings. These are the bearings found in the wheels, the swing arm and the forks center stem (where you are having this problem). This bearing was invented by a Mr. Timken in the 1890's. You can Google Timken or roller bearing and find out all about them. They are maybe the most common bearing in the World. We use them in a lot of applications. The alternative is ball bearings which are inferior in this application, (but I believe they were used in the /2 bikes in this place.)

Tapered roller bearings are installed so they have some sideways force applied. They are working primarily on the axis that they roll on. In other words a wheel bearing will rotate in the direction and in the plane you want to move and carry tremendous loads in that plane, thousands of pounds. But it is installed with a few pounds of force pushing at 90 degrees to the plane it rotates in. This few pounds of preload is usually somewhere between 3 and 7 pounds.

Did you recently have replaced or replace the steering stem bearings? New bearings will seat themselves after as few as 50 miles and sometimes take a little longer, but not much. A bearing installed and properly preloaded will be loose after a while because it is a new bearing. The steering stem will knock as it goes up and down and the slotted nut and the top lock nut may come loose. This is probably what has happened.

To properly fix this take stuff apart enough so you can get to the slotted nut with a hook wrench, tighten it and add 4 or 5 lbs of force to the wrench. It is not much. Over tight and the bearings will fail, too loose and the bearings will knock (also with a motorcycle you can get a tank slapper from too loose steering stem bearings.) Then, putting things back together when you tighten the lock nut, 36mm, hold the slotted nut in the opposite direction to prevent changing the preload.

There is another caveat concerning the lock nut. It can have worn edges or faces where it meets the slotted nut. It will not hold if it is deformed. Look at it carefully.

Good Luck.
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:46 PM   #28
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I'll look again, but I didn't see anything like that. There are two wrenches with half moon shaped ends that I think are for adjusting rear shocks? But I'll check when I get home.

Also, when I took the cap nut off, there was nothing between it and the triple tree top plate (if I'm describing it properly?). I did look at the collar on the nut and it did not look irregular.

I've put on about 1000 miles in the last two months and I'm pretty sure the seller had recently overhauled part of the bike. I have no idea if that area was recent. I will talk to him when he gets back from vacation in a few days.

I'll take some photos tonight and post. Thanks!
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:43 PM   #29
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Maybe you can see the slotted nut under the top clamp. I can't see it in the picture you have post #23There's an awful lot of stuff on that bike to take everything apart. It is possible to tighten the slotted nut with out taking it all apart. The hook wrench you need is the one that has two pins in the other end for the fork tube caps. This wrench is thicker than most shock adjustment wrenches but it is thin enough to fit under the top clamp.

If the nut was missing you could see the threads of the stem and I don't see them either so maybe it's just the grease that prevents us seeing what is happening here.

Here's the pic of how it should be. #3 is the slotted nut. #4 is the top nut that came loose.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...12&hg=31&fg=10

#5 are the fork tube top caps that fit the pin wrench.

If you don't have these two tools in your on board tool kit you need them. Hucky's is a good source for these. I think you have to call him because they aren't on his web site. Find out if you have those parts on your bike and look at the lock nut too because you may need that also.

http://www.bmwhucky.com/
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:42 PM   #30
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Okay, thanks!

I have the factory toolkit and there isn't room for any more tools, so I assume it's complete. There is the wrench with two pegs on one end that I figured are for the fork caps. There is a similar style wrench with holes, not pegs, that I thought may fit with the other?

I'm on my way home and I'll take a look and reply, possibly with another photo.
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