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Old 09-02-2012, 03:10 PM   #61
mspa OP
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Well, I found out that the Bikemaster American Superbike bars I have were originally mounted on stock risers . . . so maybe that means they are 22mm??? At least I know they will fit, Disston
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

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mspa screwed with this post 09-02-2012 at 06:17 PM
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:22 PM   #62
Wirespokes
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Don't worry about the bars - they'll work as-is. All you've gotta do is fold in the mirrors, turn the wheel to one side getting that one through, then roll forward a little while leaning a little and get the other side through. That's how I've done it with the living-room bikes.

As for the forks - no need to pull them all apart! If they're working, save it for a winter day to service them. If the steering bearing pre-load is too loose, adjust it with the hook wrench. And it sounds like it's a little loose. The problem with loose steering bearings is it's possible oscillations can occur - other wise known as a TANK SLAPPER. Not to be taken lightly!

I don't like using the 36mm flat box wrench since it scars the nut. If it's needed on the road, well, it can't be helped. But in the shop I use a box wrench or socket. And, yes, that nut locates the top clamp. The whole assembly will wobble until locked into position by that nut.

One thing you might not be able to tell without taking off the top clamp, or at least loosening it up, is the slotted nut can go on the wrong way. Only one way is right. It's bevelled on one side, which points down to the bearing. It's flat on the side that supports the top tree.

And as for the tire - don't worry about it! The reason it's got a direction marking is that it's stronger one way than the other. If it rolls smooth, not lumpy, and doesn't vibrate, just turn it around! The cheap thing to do is swap the discs side to side, but even there, it's not a big deal. Just turning the wheel around is probably just fine. So the brake pads will need to re-seat to the discs... big deal! They'll still stop just fine. I've done it with my bikes before and never really noticed a difference.

Frankly, the thing to be concerned about is the steering bearing pre-load. Get that sucker right and go ride! Save your money for gas!
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:40 PM   #63
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You'll be able to see the bike in the not too distant future WS, and if I haven't taken the top plate apart, you'll see close up and I think agree that the slotted nut is on right. I can tell with the thickness of the part of the nut that is the "top" is flat up against the top clamp, and from looking down from above, I can tell there is no taper. The side to side movement feels right and is bouncy (laterally speaking) and as much as I hand tightened the cap nut, it hasn't moved.

Your tricky idea for the mirrors getting through the gate came to mind. I find myself doing that as-is if I don't enter the gateway dead center . . . by the way, what are you doing putting bikes in the living room? :)

Today brought a new thing to look at. A few oil drips on the ground, which I haven't had in two months. I'm going to clean the general area tomorrow and go for a ride. When I get back, I should be able to sort out where it's coming from. I noticed it on the rear left side of the oil pan. There was a little bulging bit of clean oil near the corner. Since the oil was clean with no grit or dirt, I'm hoping it just blew down from the oil dipstick cap. FYI, I park on the center stand. I had checked the oil and may not have gotten the oil cap tight. I just tightened, carefully. Actually, loosened, then tightened to make sure I didn't overdo it. I am changing the oil in 500 miles (about 5 weeks).

The second thing to look at is the oil switch which was new when the seller did engine work back in 2005. The pan gasket shouldn't leak. I checked all the pan bolts and they are tight. Looking around the bottom, there is some moist dirt in the normal places.

If I don't get the drip tomorrow, I'll know it was the oil dipstick cap. Otherwise, I assume from what the seller told me to look at, is the pushrod tubes.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:40 AM   #64
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Good idea to clean driveway but is easier to see oil drips on a large piece of cardboard.
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:21 PM   #65
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Tracking down possible oil leak

Here's a pic of where I have seen oil.



The green circle shows where the spill over seemed to be on Saturday. I wiped the areas that could have oil seeping . . . did cold startup to warm engine. Turned off, and got gear on. Oil started to weep down. I wiped off, and rode a few miles to the store. Same thing. Both times no dripping on ground. Went to one more store and home. Each time just enough oil to see, but no substantial amount. Always from the same spot. Got home and have checked several times in the last 3 hours. Not oily at all.

Obviously, it's not a serious leak, but this may prove to be a nuisance leak.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

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Old 09-03-2012, 08:22 PM   #66
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pics of oil pan



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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

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Old 09-03-2012, 11:56 PM   #67
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Good thing the slotted nut was there. Well hidden f'sure and it didn't make sense if it wasn't there...good result.

The oil on that shelf is usually from the rear main seal or the oil pump...no reason it can't be a diy job and reasonably cheap.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:20 AM   #68
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I'm hoping worse case scenario is a gasket that's not too difficult to fix. I have an oil change coming up in about 500 miles/5 weeks. If this starts getting worse, that will have to happen sooner.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-04-2012, 05:15 PM   #69
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Most likely candidate for this oil leak is the rear main oil seal. Other candidates are the oil pump O-ring and the fromt transmission seal. No gaskets up there that would be a simple fix. You might as well start planning right now that this is going top be one of your Winter projects. You could put it off for quit a while but it will not get better on it's own. It will be getting worse actually.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:44 PM   #70
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I communique'd with the seller and I think we have it narrowed down to the Neutral Indicator Switch Seal. I got some light in the area I lovingly call "the cave" (in between the shelf and tranny), and everything is dry. But I noticed the wire and black plastic harness that is to the left of the greased up NIS seal was glistening and the greasy mass had some oilyness to it. I carefully cleaned the wire off without disturbing the grease, and fired up the engine to run a bit. But no leak. I'm going to check again before I go to work tomorrow and take a white paper towel with me. If I see oily stuff on that wire again, I'm going to wipe to see if it is oil. This has a ceramic housing that seals against copper, so they eventually leak.

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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:05 PM   #71
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Back on to tweaks now . . .

I'm ready to install the stock risers I received today, thanks D !!! But ran into some questions . . .

Stock risers and 7/8" bars
I have 7/8" Bikemaster Superbike bars that cause a 1/8" gap on the risers. I haven't tightened the nuts, but I can't imagine this decreasing much. Is this normal?






Spacer under top plate reduces amount of threaded stud for nut.
There is a spacer piece with white rubber washers under the triple tree top plate. Is this a stock piece, or possibly an add-on for the Space Ace barbacks I just took off? The threaded studs on the risers aren't long enough to go all the way through the nuts, so I'm wondering if it's a bad idea, or okay, to thread the studs back out a 1/8" to have more stud underneath for the nut?




Control grip removal and grease.
The current bars have plastic plugs and the left grip is really on tight. I don't think it's glued, but I obviously can't put my air compressor hose in the right side to help "blow out" since that plug is in there. Any tips?

Can anyone tell me about the graphite colored grease that is under the right throttle grip? Do I need to use a certain type?

I can't ride my bike till I get this stuff figured out, so I'm hoping to at least figure out if the current bars are okay with the risers, AND some solution for the riser studs and spacer under the top plate. However, there will still be an issue of tank clearance with the controls. I couldn't rotate the bar or grips where I want and not hit the tank. I really want full steering angle without damaging the tank . . . so clubman bars may become necessary.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)

mspa screwed with this post 09-20-2012 at 09:12 PM
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:13 PM   #72
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I had a fun day today!

I got to do something fun on the bike today. It took me a few hours (trying to be careful), but I got the stock risers installed, using my current Bikemaster Superbike bars, and put my Napoleon mirrors on. I like the difference in feel while riding, and really like the improved vision with the mirrors.

The process was interesting to me because I found the need to do a rough install so I could position the bars and cut the ends off. I did the left side first to make sure my thinking was sound :) I removed the grip on the left side first, cut a hole big enough for the mirror's rubber stub to slide through tightly. I think I installed the bars four times to check various geometry to make sure the controls didn't hit the tank and also have clearance for the fairing. I did take the fairing off for space to work.

Here's some pics.







Tank clearance


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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:15 PM   #73
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Napoleon mirrors









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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:20 PM   #74
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One thing I had suspected might be a problem is a problem to some degree. The rubber grip and mount on the Napoleon mirror are "grippy" and so when I let off the throttle, well, I can't, I have to roll the throttle down manually. This takes a little getting used to, but I'm thinking I need two very thin nylon or plastic washers to put between both parts so the throttle can release on it's own. Does that make sense?

I'd appreciate ideas on this. Also, I removed what I think was a graphite lubricant on the bar so the throttle sleeve would slip back to zero. I wiped much of it off after it seemed to not work as well after the work I did, and BEFORE putting the mirrors on. So before putting the mirrors on, the throttle was already a slight issue.

So I really need to address the lubrication and the washers for slippage between grip and bar end mirror base.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:37 PM   #75
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more pics

Here's a few more pics to show how the bike looks with the bars in stock position with new bar end mirrors.










Yes, my bike is almost the same color as my truck. When I found the bike on CL—after other deals falling through—I thought this was meant to be mine.

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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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