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Old 09-22-2012, 09:49 PM   #76
mspa OP
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Clutch cable length

After repositioning my bars, I have even more slack in the clutch cable. If you look at the pics below, you'll see the slack along the right front side, and also up at the bar how I have the adjustor way out, and the cable running through the center cable hole in the top plate. I have no idea how this effects my adjustment process. But I went for a ride today and the bike rides great other than the same slipping in the upper range. If I drive "normal" as in not speeding, there is no problem. So you could say the bike is perfect as long as I am a good boy.

I started another thread about my neutral indicator switch because it was leaking even more today after this ride today. I'm going to check the tranny fluid since the flywheel is dry. I hope the fluid level is still good, but I don't want to drive myself nuts trying to adjust the cable if this is a contributing factor.





Should I assume that the 1410mm lenth on MAX BMW (part# 32 73 2 324 958) should work? I plan to measure the cable on it tomorrow. It doesn't look like the photo (below).

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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)

mspa screwed with this post 09-22-2012 at 09:55 PM
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:09 PM   #77
Les_Garten
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Really like what you have going on here. Whoever did your paint looks like they did a great job!

One pointer and a question.

What did you use for the plugs on the tailpiece where the grab rail was?

There is a better neutral switch out there I think. You might want to do a search for it. One that is less prone to leaks. Somebody told me about this but I can't recall all the details.
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:34 PM   #78
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Thanks Les!

The guy I bought the bike from painted the bike. He used to be a bike tech for H-D and BMW dealers. It's not perfect, but I think I got a way better bike than I originally thought about getting back into biking. With something this big, I didn't want a beauty queen that I might drop and curse myself to no end. Despite little niggly things to deal with, I'm really in love with this bike.

As for the black plastic hole covers, I'll take a better look tomorrow. They aren't all matching, but I'll let you know what I find, and post a pic or two if I think it will help you. I like the clean look and my wife will probably never sit on this thing anyway, and if she does, she'll be holding onto me

Thanks for the pointer on the switch. I remember the parts guy at the dealer saying those have a tendency to go bad. I wish BMW just came up with a better design. But if you find a link for the part you are talking about, please come back and post.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:20 AM   #79
r77toy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mspa View Post
One thing I had suspected might be a problem is a problem to some degree. The rubber grip and mount on the Napoleon mirror are "grippy" and so when I let off the throttle, well, I can't, I have to roll the throttle down manually. This takes a little getting used to, but I'm thinking I need two very thin nylon or plastic washers to put between both parts so the throttle can release on it's own. Does that make sense?

I'd appreciate ideas on this. Also, I removed what I think was a graphite lubricant on the bar so the throttle sleeve would slip back to zero. I wiped much of it off after it seemed to not work as well after the work I did, and BEFORE putting the mirrors on. So before putting the mirrors on, the throttle was already a slight issue.

So I really need to address the lubrication and the washers for slippage between grip and bar end mirror base.
Slide the throttle assembly inboard.
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Old 09-23-2012, 01:50 PM   #80
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Did that. Still not moving freely, even without the mirror on, so maybe it's the lube between bar and throttle sleeve? Or maybe it's in the grip, involving the gear mechanism?

I tried to clean off the graphite colored lube on the bar since it wasn't slipping. Sprayed some TriFlow on there. Today, I took the throttle grip cover off to see if something was going on in there. Well, in the process of doing that, the cable ends came out, and I may have reversed the position of those. But in the middle of all that, I pulled the throttle sleeve out and it "floats" around on the handlebar just fine. So the "friction" seems to be when it's fully engaged with the gear in housing. I initially pulled the throttle out to make sure it was aligned, since yesterday, I did pull the cover off to inspect, and the gear popped out, so I had to put back in. I just centered it in place without thinking "did I rotate the throttle sleeve?"

I just pulled the grip control back out on the bar to give the throttle cables more room, as before, and even more. No effect, so it's not the cables, or the bend. This has to be either a lubrication issue, or something is going on in the grip when the throttle sleeve is in all the way. The gear has plenty of lube in there. It's messy to handle it. Also a graphite colored lubrication, but seems thicker than what was on the bar previous to the bar mod.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)

mspa screwed with this post 09-23-2012 at 02:05 PM
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:39 PM   #81
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Got the throttle grip figured out. Had to sand down the paint on the bar. Went for a test drive and sweet!!

Oh, I highly recommend the Napoleon mirrors. They are pricey at $35 each, but the view is amazing!!

Now I need to figure out my clutch cable, as in getting my clutch adjusted, AND double check to see if the neutral switch is leaking as I suspect it is.

[update] That darn switch is leaking. I stuck my finger on it tonight (still hot and that smarts) and it was wet. I wish there was an easy way to fix. I should be happy it's something small like that and not a bigger more pricey problem.

Am I wishing too much that soon I'll be done with little niggly stuff and can enjoy a few months with no repair stuff? I have close to 1300 miles on the bike and will be doing a oil change, etc. soon, and wondering when I'm going to be doing a valve adjust. I'm looking forward to getting on a "regular" maintenance schedule . . .
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)

mspa screwed with this post 09-23-2012 at 07:44 PM
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:32 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les_Garten View Post
What did you use for the plugs on the tailpiece where the grab rail was?
There are two fastener types. Here are pics of both. I'm pretty sure you can get at the local hardware store if they have a good assortment of fasteners.



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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-28-2012, 07:08 PM   #83
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Getting excited about my first big drive this weekend. I'm taking the bike down to Wirespokes to fix the odometer and maybe get a second opinion on how the bike is setup.

The clutch adjustment seems to be fine as long as I don't wrench on the throttle, and I patched my neutral switch with Ultra Black, so should be all set.

Next tweak will be cleaning up the wiring up at the bars and headlight, relocating the fuses back inside the headlight, and generally dealing with the additional length on wiring from relocating the bars back to stock.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:02 PM   #84
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Many thanks to Wirespokes!!

I just got back from a weekend introducing my bike to Wirespokes. It was time to just get my odometer fixed and I really wanted a more experienced airhead to look at how I had my clutch adjusted to see if I had screwed up. I figured it would be nice to also have him look over the bike to help me zero in on "final tweaks".

Over two days, not only did he fix my speedo/odometer, but he really went out of his way to zero in on things I would have missed. He adjusted the carbs. He re-routed all cables to accommodate the bar being back in the stock position. He addressed the steering cap nut that had been getting loose. We did my first oil change with oil filter and air filter. Replaced all fuel lines. Relocated the ground on for the Dyna III ignition, that was grounded to the screw for the voltage regulator. He relocated the fuses to back in the headlight bucket, and basically cleaned up the two big clusters of control wiring in the insulator. I even learned how to take the gas tank off—a few times.

One thing I'm really glad for is the timing. He noticed that my center stand bolts are bent. So I have to address that pronto. I'm going to see if my local shop has the parts. I know MAX does, but if I can get in the next day or two, that's better.

Also, the clutch is still slipping at high speeds when WOT puts the engine under duress. At least that's how I think of it. I hope to find out tomorrow if the guy I bought the bike from—what parts he replaced when he did the clutch job. Maybe it's just lube/grease that got flung off the splines? We noticed that he overlubed the mechanism for the rear brake, so it's possible.

I am still going to buy a new neutral switch and I'll most likely visit Wirespokes another time to help reposition my fairing into the proper position—a little further forward—so we can bend the front turn indicator stems back down and run through the fairing. I'm sure there will be some other thing we'll want to address.

Wirespokes is a super nice guy to hang out with, and for me, it was like having your older brother teach you about your first airhead. A great time well spent!!

I'll post some pics soon. I'm still too tired tonight.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:46 PM   #85
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Previous clutch work done

So I found out today that the work on the clutch last spring was replacing the friction disk and spring. The pressure plate and flywheel was in spec, and they were not resurfaced, since you shouldn't do that. It may be that spline grease has flung out onto the surfaces.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:01 PM   #86
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Updated to do list

After the work that Wirespokes did this past weekend, I have an updated list of to-do's. Here it is listed by priority.

1) Center stand bolts are bent -- I am hoping this is simply bent bolts that need replacing. One side has the bolt head appearing to be angled into the side hole. I just looked and the spacers are a little cock-eyed in the mounting holes, it appears because the way the bolts are bent. I'm hoping that the bolts are the only thing to buy.

2) Clutch -- based off the parts that were replaced last spring (see above post), I need to determine the best course of action to resolve. It's not a bad situation if I keep my speeds under 75 and don't wrench on the throttle up in that range. So I suppose I could live with it as-is and do next spring.

3) Neutral Indicator Switch -- slow weeping, but needs to be replaced. Will do together with clutch, if that requires opening up.

4) Front forks -- it was nice having someone else ride my bike. Wirespokes rightly pointed out that my front forks are riding a bit rough, and potholes and such cause a knocking sound in the front. He thinks maybe the springs are preloaded. I am told these forks have the stock progressive springs. I have BMW fork oil, so might not be a pricey fix.

5) Bullet fairing -- Wirespokes had a great idea. Put the fairing where it's supposed to be. I have the indicator stalks bent up and hopefully, they can be rebent into position so the fairing can move forward about an inch. This will require fabricating new support brackets.

6) Replace the voltage regulator -- mine is a bit wobbly. We put new rubber since the old rubber grommets were compressed and cracked. Wirespokes suggested using a newer voltage regulator. I just need to find some good options, so I'm open to suggestions.

One other thing I have to look into was some front end wobbling at about 90 mph on the ride home last night. The sensation was definitely something I would consider to be the front tire/wheel out of balance. I called the shop I paid to install and balance the tire (which was slightly used but has good tread). There are 7 of these newer style non-lead balancing weights that are almost opposite on each side of the rim. The funny thing is that I haven't noticed that until yesterday, and I've gone that fast . . . so it's hard to imagine that the tire or wheel has suddenly gone out of balance. I was going on an incline, which I haven't done on a high speed throttle on, so maybe that somehow factors in? I can't imagine that either.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)

mspa screwed with this post 10-01-2012 at 08:07 PM
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:17 PM   #87
disston
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The clutch on an Airhead does wear the two pressure pieces too. You can SOMETIMES get away with not changing the pressure plate and the compression ring but it's is not recommended to do the clutch job this way. It is the cheap way to do the job and it often leads to the problem of a slipping clutch.

You can either back off the throttle and learn to live with the slippage or redo the entire clutch. If you do the OEM rebuild it is 4 parts. That is everything. I have only ever heard of a spec for the friction disk. I don't know of any spec for any of the other parts.

There is a cheaper way to do a clutch job. It involves machining parts and fitting a special disk. All this is handled by only one place I have ever heard of and that is Southland Clutch;

http://www.southlandclutch.com/

You ship them everything you have, two plates and disk (I guess you don't have to ship the spring because you will buy a new one of those) They will machine everything to accept the thicker disk they make from your old disk. It's a package deal. Call them for more info.

I've never done one of these but I do like the idea and I may have to do it sooner than later actually. My clutch also slips a little. But it's not slipping much. (see, I too did a cheap clutch job, But I know I'm cheap)I'm not going to try and tell you this is the correct way to do a BMW clutch.

If you really think there is oil on the disk then take it out to clean it. We'll tell you how to do all this. It's true this could be the problem but you won't know till you get it all apart. And while at it rub the pressure parts with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:44 PM   #88
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I'm cheap to a certain extent . . . but one thing I would need to know or decide, is if using correct BMW parts will be best in the long run. My viewpoint is that I will keep this bike. So to that end, I'd rather spend more and have it last longer.

Like you said, I may just live with the clutch for now. Possibly, take another trip down to see Wirespokes to do the other work, pull the clutch to examine, clean and rub the pressure plates down, to see if that works. That's the cheaper way. If we see issues, I can budget and save to do right. But I can assure you I'm not taking to a dealer to get raped. Inmates here will treat me MUCH better

Quick question on the nylocks for the riser studs. Is it advisable to get the 8mm, as opposed to 5/16"?

Also, for proper replacement 8amp fuses, are these good? http://www.amazon.com/JT-Products-24.../dp/B002UZZIG4 I found some Littlefield brand GBC fuses at O-Reilly's Auto Supply, but wasn't sure, so I didn't buy.

Would love a recommendation on the Voltage Regulator as well.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:22 AM   #89
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They're the correct fuses.. Head to your local ol' VW mechanic. He'll have 'em.

There are a few
alternative regulators.
  • Bosch make one, a RE55 or the RE57. One earth's via the frame connections, the other via a wire to a frame connection.
  • Borg-Warner R-588
  • Neihoff WA 709.
Autozone have an equivalent of the B-W for less $.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:32 AM   #90
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Thanks BB, I'll look into that.

- - -

The fuse relocator (you see in previous photos) was removed and wires reconnected with fuses inside the headlight bucket. However, the headlight now comes on in both ignition positions. How do I troubleshoot that?

Another thing I noticed last night, maybe not related . . . is that when I was turning the key back and forth through each position, and did this a few times, I could hear a clicking back behind the battery (or so I thought) and at the third and last time of doing this, heard a puff type of sound. The best way I can describe is it sounded like some fuel was ignited and combustion out the head. I did not have the start button depressed.
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Riding my airhead is like eating chinese food . . . an hour later, I need to ride again.

1978 BMW R100S "bitza" (R80/7 frame)
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