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Old 08-28-2012, 08:29 PM   #16
PatrickM
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If it were a car I'd suggest looking at the motor mounts.
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:04 AM   #17
fiwi OP
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Quote:
Just to confirm - you are saying that if you:

1) drop to 4th gear while maintaining constant SPEED it goes away (because the RPM goes up?)
2) shift up to 6th gear while maintaining constant SPEED it goes away (because the RPM goes down?)
3) hold 3200 RPM in either 4th or 6th gear there is no problem?
Yes JR, that is exactly what Im saying. I cannot replicate the pulse in any other gear at any other speed, no matter what I do. Weird.I did another inspection of the chain and sprockets and they seem to be fine. I am booking the bike in to get the brake fluid changed over the next couple of weeks. I will get them to have a look at it. Call me a pessimist but I can guess what their answer will be.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:21 AM   #18
MikeMike
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If it's 5th gear or transmission related, your drain plug will be sporting a very distinct afro of metal.
It'll take you about an hour to:
Change the oil and filter and get a good look at your drain plug's magnet
Check the wheels for lost weights and out of round
Clean the chain link by link and see if you are missing o-rings or have frozen and kinked links
Check the sprockets
Check your chain tension
Re-torque the motor mounts
Check tire pressure
And test ride
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:34 AM   #19
Cambi
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Same here

Hi fiwi - add me to the list - 2010 - 24 000km - started about 1K or so.
It's prety light on 5th gear around 3000RPM but just like you - I now avoid hanging there - vibration seems to come from the left hand side of the engine.
This is how I feel it.
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:52 PM   #20
JRWooden
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I think MikeMike's list is a good one ... I still am going at your symptoms....
When you get to the shop maybe you and one of the techs could go for a ride with two bikes - yours and something for comparison ... a few miles out switch bikes and come back in to the dealership....

weird issue ...
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:56 PM   #21
GH41
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I'll side with the chain and/or sprocket camp. The cost over the life of the parts is small compared to gas. How is the spring rate adjustment on the shock? You know the chain gets looser as the shock compresses?? Did you check the chain adjustment on the center stand? On my 2012 F650 with only a few thousand miles on it the chain is noticeably tighter in one spot. Adjust the chain to the upper (looser) end of the spec and crank the spring rate up to double what you usually run. If a sprocket is out of round it shouldn't pulsate if the chain is loose. If the pulsating is still there put it back on the center stand and adjust the chain to as loose as it will go. Turn the wheel in the direction of forward motion and watch the chain as it comes off of the front sprocket. If a link is stiff you will notice it as the chain comes off of the small diameter front sprocket. GH
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:41 PM   #22
fiwi OP
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Wicked

Quote:
If it's 5th gear or transmission related, your drain plug will be sporting a very distinct afro of metal.
It'll take you about an hour to:
Change the oil and filter and get a good look at your drain plug's magnet
Check the wheels for lost weights and out of round
Clean the chain link by link and see if you are missing o-rings or have frozen and kinked links
Check the sprockets
Check your chain tension
Re-torque the motor mounts
Check tire pressure
And test ride
I did an oil change last week and checked the drain plug, clean as a whistle. I will run through all those other things on the weekend.

Quote:
Hi fiwi - add me to the list - 2010 - 24 000km - started about 1K or so.
It's prety light on 5th gear around 3000RPM but just like you - I now avoid hanging there - vibration seems to come from the left hand side of the engine.
This is how I feel it.
So Cambi, what you gonna do about it?

Quote:
I'll side with the chain and/or sprocket camp. The cost over the life of the parts is small compared to gas. How is the spring rate adjustment on the shock? You know the chain gets looser as the shock compresses?? Did you check the chain adjustment on the center stand? On my 2012 F650 with only a few thousand miles on it the chain is noticeably tighter in one spot. Adjust the chain to the upper (looser) end of the spec and crank the spring rate up to double what you usually run. If a sprocket is out of round it shouldn't pulsate if the chain is loose. If the pulsating is still there put it back on the center stand and adjust the chain to as loose as it will go. Turn the wheel in the direction of forward motion and watch the chain as it comes off of the front sprocket. If a link is stiff you will notice it as the chain comes off of the small diameter front sprocket. GH
I thought you only check the chain on the side stand?. Well, that was what i did. Side stand, check, move bike forward a fraction, check, move bike forward etc. I will try all your other points on the weekend too.

Thanks everyone for all you ideas and input

Grant
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:19 PM   #23
GH41
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If you are checking the chain adjustment on the side stand you probably need to push the bike a couple of miles to get a good reading and then remember where in the two mile trip the chain was the tightest! Checking it on the side stand is bull shit! GH
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:25 AM   #24
MikeMike
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I agree with the above. I just changed my chain and sprockets after more than 40,000kms more as a preventive measure as they were good to go for a few more thousand kms. I did chain adjustments by the book (only a couple) on the side stand but also on the center stand and found no noticeable difference. I am convinced they say side stand because the bike was available with the center stand being an option.
I think your chain cleaning (a dirty job but you'll be going link by link which is good) might turn up something.
Be sure to take off your chain guard and clean the crap out of the front part where the fling of grease builds up inside it.
Clean along the top run of the chain so you will never have to worry about getting your fingers jammed, simply clean on the top run by rotating the wheel forward and clean the links closer to the middle.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:11 AM   #25
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So you had this symptom once before and a new chain cured it. You have it again and you are worried it might be something else.

I don't know why you detect it only in 5th gear, but I think it should lead you to believe it is the same problem.

I still think it is a chain issue. It is not unusual for chains to get frozen links in them, one of those signs it should be replaced. I have never been able to fix them. It might be hard to detect on the bike, at least loosen the axle to get a lot of slack in the chain to look for it.

The chain is made by CZ for BMW. Even the "new version" is not as good as many others. Worn or not, at some point you are going to have to replace it, so not like throwing money away.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:27 AM   #26
fiwi OP
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You are right Gary, replacing the chain and sprockets might fix the problem, just trying to figure out what the actual problem is though . There is a user here who lives not far from me, he has a DID ZVM2 116 links for sale, appropriate?.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:29 AM   #27
fiwi OP
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It's a 525
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:47 PM   #28
GH41
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"I don't know why you detect it only in 5th gear"

It is probably just the sweet spot where the load on the drive, rpm, and road speed are best to notice it. GH
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:58 PM   #29
GH41
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"I did chain adjustments by the book (only a couple) on the side stand but also on the center stand and found no noticeable difference. I am convinced they say side stand because the bike was available with the center stand being an option"

How do you find the tight spot when adjusting on the side stand? The tight spot on my chain is probably 1/2" tighter than the loose spot. I guess if I didn't have the center stand I would adjust the chain to the slack end of the recommended spec. No way I would be rolling the bike back and forth to find the tight spot! GH
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:06 PM   #30
itsatdm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiwi View Post
It's a 525

Thats the correct chain, new I hope. Did the dealer change the sprockets with the first chain? If not you are probably due.

As to the tight spot, some swear you got to find it. Maybe I just do not understand it well enough to worry about it. What causes it? The only thing I can think of is the spline hole is not concentric with the diameter of the sprockets. Piss poor quality control if you ask me.

The problem appears to me is if 1 is 16 tooth and other a 42 tooth, a ratio of 2.6225 to 1, the tight spot is a moving target even if you locate it the first time. At least do 3 complete revolutions of the chain to try to pin it down.
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