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Old 09-18-2012, 11:06 AM   #181
disston
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In all honesty I think the Booster means more messing with the points more often. Not as much as with out the Booster but more than with the Dyna III. The Dyna III does require the addition of the magnets to the advance unit. These are held onto the advance unit by set screws. This could be seen as something that stresses your advance unit but ultimately I don't think it is much of a concern. The advance unit, even tho it has the repair, will not be a problem with either system anytime soon or anytime not so soon, IMHO.

The Booster will need maintenance at least once or twice a year. Readjustment of the gap as the rubbing block wears, maybe once every year or every two years. Hard to say. I think people that have the Dyna III rarely have to adjust them. They may in fact forget they are even there or how they supposedly work or what ignition systems do anyway.

There is a big difference in cost tho. And the Dyna III is more than your budget of $200 I think.

For us older guys who grew up with ignition points the Booster is such a big improvement. We all think it's the cat's meow but for a lot of you younger guys the perception of less maintenance is seen as such a big deal. I guess you will get the one you want. I'm a little embarrassed and I want to apologize for being so insistent that you have to make the choice I think is right. Of course get the one you want.

And then all us Old Guys will wave as we are passing you on the Highway because a stray electron knocked out your non-repairable ignition system.

It's been fun. Have you read all the rest of the ignition threads going right now. There are several others. Good luck with it what ever you do.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:48 PM   #182
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I'm still in the pilot /idle circuit of carbs camp.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:23 PM   #183
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Painting my /7 tank this weekend.

I was cosidering using the aircraft removal stuff. Pretty nasty stuff. to get it to the the bare metal. is this the est way to go about it ? Or if I sand the existing paint and primer just as effective. the tank has no dents so I won't need any filler.
feel free to advise.

My bigger concern are the fenders as I can't image the paint / aircraft removal stuff is good for that material.

please feel free to advise.

thanks
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:59 PM   #184
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i'm all about leaving the old paint and prepping well.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:35 PM   #185
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Use whatever stripper you can get at the local place for stripping the metal, but depending of the paint surface some rough sanding before stripping may make things go faster. Just don't let the stripper dry, scrap it off and reapply if necessary.

Those loverly fenders, I would just sand by hand with 220 or such just to give the new paint something so cling to.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:51 PM   #186
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I use aircraft stripper all the time, but it is harsh and I wouldn't use it on something beautiful.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:36 PM   #187
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So i decided to give the Boyer system a try. I did a lot of research and based on several opinions I think this might make the most sense for me. I have had a cam repair done and if installing this limits the amount of times I have to mess with it the better. I talked extensively with a tech about this and at the end of the day i was sold. I plan on vacuum sealing my points and carrying that system with me at all times on the bike as a back up. I will do a complete write up with pics of the install since I have not found one anywhere. Also it might help others down the line, its the least I could do since so many have helped me.
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:15 PM   #188
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ok so I installed the ignition and we are essentially back where we started. The bike has trouble startnig and holding and idle.

To me the starting is the big problem as the idle could be and adjustment.

Since I am confident the timing is ok and the valves are good to go, Im going to start byt dropping the float bowls and removing the idle jet and making sure they are clean and re-seat them properly.

Im not sure why I'm not getting gas at the ignition. but once started its ok.

Would the enrichers play a role. I mean I cleaned them well and re-install on the CORRECT side. I can tell the bike bogs down a bit when I pull them.

anyone share these symptoms?

thanks
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Old 09-23-2012, 05:47 PM   #189
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Since you have eliminated all the other ignition parameters there is only one thing on the ignition to check. Spark Plug gap is 0.7 mm or 0.024 to 0.028 in

What I actually suspect is something in the carbs and my #1 candidate is the enrichners. They are often messed up by well intentioned riders, just trying to help. I think you did replace the O-rings in the enrichners? And to do this they have to be taken apart. You have mentioned that you have them on the correct side. This is good. This is 1/2 of the problems when we find the enrichners at fault. The other 1/2 is the disk that is actually the part that rotates can be put in upside down or backwards. There is a way to orient the disk by referring to the dot on the shaft. I can never remember which way that is the dot is supposed to be placed. The way I did this is look at the carb body and the enrichner and I could tell which way the gas had to flow.

OK, that may not be the most helpful. I have an enrichner here. The progressively larger tiny holes go on the bottom. As the actuating lever on the outside is raised the disk positions a larger tiny hole. The funny wing shape hole goes towards the top.

If I had a camera I'd take some pictures and that's in the works but don't think I'll be doing that till later this year.
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:26 PM   #190
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Here is a pic of how I have it situated
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:36 PM   #191
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So I was looking at this pic and something Don't look right. Look at the year drop. It's facing the wrong direction. It's on the correct side but wrong direction I believe. Keep in mind I did each carb seperatly so for the disc to be switch would mean the PO must have installed the wrong disc. It's the correct shaft as it has a R stamped in the center. Should there be a stamp on the disc somewhere?
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:13 PM   #192
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The disks do not come off the shafts. Not ordinarily. They are designed to not come apart and there is no reason to ever take them apart so I will leave it at, they do not come apart.

It looks like you have them correctly positioned.

Do you have a magnifying glass? Read and post the numbers on each jet. You will need a good picture with the correct names of the different jets. It is important to get the names right so this can be figured out as opposed to jerking off all day.

You wrote "year drop" when you meant "tear drop". It took me ten mins to figure this out.

The picture shows one disk and the hand has another disk. Right disks and left disks. Maybe the publishers of the book have mixed the enrichners. I wouldn't be surprised. I don't know if there is any advantage to what you are pondering.

I'm not sure I'm going to be able to diagnose this problem for you. If you could bring the bike over by my house I'd be glad to look at it for you.
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:18 PM   #193
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tete,

In post # 190 above. You show the enrichner with an R for the right side carb. That carb is the left hand carb. Tell me I'm wrong.

OK, I think I'm wrong. That is a right hand carb?
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:48 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
tete,

In post # 190 above. You show the enrichner with an R for the right side carb. That carb is the left hand carb. Tell me I'm wrong.

OK, I think I'm wrong. That is a right hand carb?
sorry about the spelling, my phone does auto correct and often times makes me sound like an idiot.

yea I meant tear drop.

Also it was the right carb, or " correct carb. I went thru the enrichers both sides and no issues there. They are correct position and the correct side. Still, no start. easily with the spray.

I also pulled both idle jets a blew some compressed air through them. I also shot air thru the main jet and any other orifice I could find.

It just seems so silly. is it possible the needle is wrongly position. I have it in position 2.
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:58 PM   #195
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Position #2 is correct for a 1975 R90/6 with the 64/32/11 & 12 carbs. The clip that holds the jet needles in the slides is like a Bobby pin. The needle has to be inserted so the first notch will engage. If done carelessly it is possible to skip the first notch and when you hit the second you think it is the first. Comprendae?
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