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Old 09-24-2012, 06:08 PM   #211
tete OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
I use music wire.
yeah man, that might have been nice as well. I am so paranoid of damaging aything I figured nylon fishing wire was the best bet. And 120PSI though that hole for five minutes, followed by B12 Chemtool. lol. that stuff is nasty.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:35 PM   #212
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so my next step, possibly tomorrow will be,

1. turn mixture screws all the way in then back out to 1 full turn.
2. turn in idle screws in a considerable amount.
3. start bike and let warm up, then see where it idles at if it doesn't idle I will open up mixture screws 1/4 turn
4. repeat.

5. Once idle holds, if too high I will back out idle screws till a reasonable idle.

Does this sound reasonable?


Thanks
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:41 PM   #213
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My r90 takes a good couple of minutes to a the way heat up. Will it idle once hot with the enricheners off?

Also; your bike starts. That rules.
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Old 09-24-2012, 07:48 PM   #214
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Originally Posted by Kt-88 View Post
My r90 takes a good couple of minutes to a the way heat up. Will it idle once hot with the enricheners off?

Also; your bike starts. That rules.


I dunno. I mean I let it warm up pretty good and it shuts off with the enrichers off. Half way "enriched" it idles fine. 15 pages of threadand finally starting no problem. I don't think it makes a difference. just cuts out as soon as I let off the throttle with enrichers off.

Yeah, I still can;t believe it.. Turns out to be something smaller than a pin hole causing trouble.

Bummer.
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:37 PM   #215
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starting fixed, next step

Let's move on to the next problem, getting it to idle.
As we already saw, little things make a big difference.
What are your pilot fuel screws set at ? Should be about a turn, give or take a quarter.
Does it idle after riding the bike for 15-20 minutes ?
If not there are two things to check.
Fuel in the pilot circuit, and an airleak.
Let's do airleak first. Make sure that the two clamps that hold the carb to the head are tight. Loosen the one that tightens the elbow to the carb. Grasp the carb top and bottom and see if you can rotate the carb body. If you can the intake spigot is loose and needs to be tightened. Once you get that done set the pilot fuel screws to one turn out from seated and go for a long testride. Does it idle now ? Will adjusting the idle screws give you an idle ? If it does but the rpms don't go down after blipping the throttle your pilot jet(s) are at least partially plugged and need to be cleaned.

You should be able to drown the engine by turning the pilot fuel screw out and starve it by turning it in.
Check back with us and let us know what happens.

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Old 09-24-2012, 10:40 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
Let's move on to the next problem, getting it to idle.
As we already saw, little things make a big difference.
What are your pilot fuel screws set at ? Should be about a turn, give or take a quarter.
Does it idle after riding the bike for 15-20 minutes ?
If not there are two things to check.
Fuel in the pilot circuit, and an airleak.
Let's do airleak first. Make sure that the two clamps that hold the carb to the head are tight. Loosen the one that tightens the elbow to the carb. Grasp the carb top and bottom and see if you can rotate the carb body. If you can the intake spigot is loose and needs to be tightened. Once you get that done set the pilot fuel screws to one turn out from seated and go for a long testride. Does it idle now ? Will adjusting the idle screws give you an idle ? If it does but the rpms don't go down after blipping the throttle your pilot jet(s) are at least partially plugged and need to be cleaned.

You should be able to drown the engine by turning the pilot fuel screw out and starve it by turning it in.
Check back with us and let us know what happens.
Good deal will do the following tomorrow after work.

THe engine feels pretty good. It's also nice to know the Boyer ignition is working fine. overall I think I can smile knowing we have made progress. I took the idle jets out yesterdaya nd cleaned them with compressed air and chemtool. The should be ok in that regard. The boots I actually checked as well. I've gone thru so much trying to get her started I pretty much tried everything but that pin hole I'll definently try a long warm up tomorrow and see what happens.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:26 AM   #217
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Do set the ignition timing on the Boyer first.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:40 AM   #218
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Do set the ignition timing on the Boyer first.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:31 AM   #219
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You don't need idle. The bike now starts so anytime it dies you will be able to start. No problem.

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Old 09-25-2012, 07:49 AM   #220
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So I seem to remember the valves were set and checked not long ago for the starting problem. So valves are set.

Next is ignition. With the Boyer all you really need to check is timing. But you should check it at idle and at full advance.

And then the start position for the idle mix screws is one turn out. (BTW the correct name is the "idle mixture screw") If you try to learn this it will someday prevent a misunderstanding)

After having seen the inside of your carb bowl I think I should say I own several carbs and parts. I have cleaned many. I have never seen a carb body this dirty after cleaning. I think you probably have plugged jets in those carbs. They may need a little reaming with your nylon string but you may also find some thinner guitar string or something that works better. I think I would start with the idle jet. Since this sort of makes sense regards the current problem.

It is possible to be aggressive enough to get the tiny holes clean and not cause damage.

There are also some passage ways in the Aluminum body of the carbs. Tiny holes in front of the butterfly are circuits that feed the idle gas. There are several of these, some of them in pairs. What I always do is hold the straw of the carb cleaner up to any orifice holes like these and spray some cleaner directly into the hole. While doing this I look for where the carb cleaner is coming out. There should be another hole or sometimes a jet that this passage way leads to and it should be obvious when it's not plugged you can see the carb cleaner coming out.

One that is not too obvious is under the carb idle screw. The idle screw is a point be careful not to damage this. Take it out. Hold the straw in the hole the carb idle screw came out of and see if this is clear by finding where the spray exits.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:38 AM   #221
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A long time ago I purchased a small set of orifice drills at a local plumbing wholesaler and have used them over the years to clean carb jets and passages with great success. Care must be used not to enlarge the hole size but usually you can "sneak up" on the correct size with a smaller drill size.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:22 PM   #222
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mixture scerw (installed with a spring over it) - I pulled cleaned and re-installed

Idle jet looks similar to this

I pulled from the bowl blew some compressed air through it and cleaned. Looks clear when I hold a flashlight to it, the tiny holes look un obstructed. I lubed the o ring and re-installed. I also blasted the all the holes with air. I'll clean the bowl again, this time with sea foam only.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:03 PM   #223
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A name brand carb cleaner has the advantage of the pressure in the can to blast through passages. And/or we also use compressed air if we have it. I do. I would be lost with out compressed air.

And all the jets and other things work through passages drilled in the aluminum carb body. For instance. The idle jet is brand new, great, is the passage it works in clear?
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:55 PM   #224
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Sorry, those pics are for reference. Mine are used, but I did go thru them and the passages. At the current state. I used my compressor at 120psi and blew though everything. Also chemtool and which is essentially compressed carb cleaner. I reassembled and once again everything starts really easy. I still haven't done a thorough warm up ride, which I will do shortly. Then come back and start trying to set idle.
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:04 PM   #225
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OK. I guess no more suggestions at this point. it sounds like you are on the right path.
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