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Old 09-25-2012, 03:40 PM   #226
tete OP
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Gilbert Az
Oddometer: 348
Well I guess I have one more question in the mean time. I'm prepping my bike for paint and have a chance to trade my /7 tank for the /6 tank.

The /7 tank I am going to paint is really clean. I'm not a huge fan of this shape, but it is clean.

A friend of mine has a /6 tank that is really clean on the inside - original red liner no rust, the outside had a little rust where the pad went, it didn't eat through but was repaired "ok".

I really like
This style tank more but to be honest I'm not sure if its a smart move.

Neither tanks have rust or dents.

The rust spot from the /6 tank I was thinking I could sand and retreat. I put a flash light to it and I see zero pin holes of any sort.

I am going to start sanding and primer this week and want to choose correctly.

Also we are not sure if the black tank is for sure a /6 or maybe /5. I put it up next to a /6 and could see no difference as the both had the clearance for the MC under the tank. Which I guess in my case doesn't matter as mine is by the throttle. I have both a /6 and /7 seat as well.

Keep in mind I will have to prep both anyways

Please share your opinions

Thanks
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:41 PM   #227
disston
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The real difference is the clearance for a MC underneath but in general you can say the /5 has screw on BMW emblems, the /6 has stick on emblems.

I think the /5 gas cap is better. It is Aluminum. The /6 is chrome and they will get pitted eventually. So the aluminum is better because of this but I think it looks better all around anyway.

The /6 tank looks better than a /7. Need correct seat for which ever one you use. That repair on the /6 tank looks fine.
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Old 09-25-2012, 04:49 PM   #228
tete OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
The real difference is the clearance for a MC underneath but in general you can say the /5 has screw on BMW emblems, the /6 has stick on emblems.

I think the /5 gas cap is better. It is Aluminum. The /6 is chrome and they will get pitted eventually. So the aluminum is better because of this but I think it looks better all around anyway.

The /6 tank looks better than a /7. Need correct seat for which ever one you use. That repair on the /6 tank looks fine.
so if i read this correct /6 seat will work fine with /5 or /6 tank, since the tank is essentially the same w exception being a few cosmetic details. However, if i choose to stay w the /7 tank then /7 seat must be used as well.


the good thing is i am currently prepared for both these scenarios.

I also have / 7 front and rear fenders I planned on using regardless of tank, is there a difference fender wise? to me they look identical to the /6 however I seems historically BMW makes adjustments here and there.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:12 PM   #229
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I don't know of any difference in the rear fender but there is a difference in the front fender between /6 & /7. There is also a difference in the lower fender brace which seems to be doing nothing but holding the fender on. It is but it is also the fork brace, lower.

The /6 fender brace is NLA. If you ask for one they will sell you the /7 brace and tell you that is what the book says. It's true the parts book says the /7 brace fits the /6 bike. It will fit until you try to bolt up the fender. The /7 fender is shallower on the sides so the /6 fender, with longer sides, it is deeper in height, will not rest on the top of the /7 fender brace. It's longer sides keep it about 3/8 in. too high. The /6 fender can be altered to make it fit the /7 brace by sanding or somehow cutting away some of the side around the brace.

I have been told this is a bad idea, it weakens the fender. I don't see that it is any problem. I have a /7 brace on my /6 bike because the /6 brace was bent. I sanded the sides of one of my /6 fenders and painted it black to match the bike. Of course the /6 uses the rear stay also. Everything seems fine to me. No pin stripes tho.

There is another difference in the braces. I have heard you can get a slightly larger tire under a /7 fender. Some use the /7 for this reason. I don't think it is a mater of you can buy a bigger tire or larger size. It's just a matter of some tires have a fatter profile kinda thing. But I've not really investigated this any further.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:46 PM   #230
tete OP
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Gilbert Az
Oddometer: 348
Ok so good news I got it to idle. BUT the I could not get it to turn off. The exhaust was RED hot! I mean like just about glowing. It was idling high. My tach don't work but it was relatively high. If I were guessing I would say 3000-3500 rpm.

I tried the kill switch an nothing, I tried just turning the thing off via key, no go. Finally I just pulled the plug wires off.

Overall I would say it felt good tho. I took it around the block etc. I just need to play with the idle screws I guess. The bike starts really easy. I'm not sure I need to choke it. I'm guessing the idle screws need to be let off a bit and also the mixture screw probably in a bit so it leans out a little? This sound about right?

No heat
Red hott


Hard to tell in these pics.
Crazy hot.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:57 PM   #231
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Since I was a much younger man, a teenager really, the advice on carburetors was to never run them too lean. It causes surges and can burn holes in pistons because it gets too hot. Ever since those days I would err on the side of too rich. This too can cause problems but not as bad as too lean.

You've probably got the idle screws too high. Set the mixture screws back to 1 full turn out and see if you can get it to idle by using the speed screws. You should now have some method of balancing the two sides. The shorting method is good, it works. Have you got the little screws used for the shorting method of carb balancing?

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Old 09-26-2012, 06:52 PM   #232
tete OP
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Gilbert Az
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Turns out it was too lean... One of the carbs screw was actually turned in all the way.I must have forgot and acicdently tightened it and never opened her up. So immediately after that last post I realized this and adjust them accordingly. Now it purrs like a sleeping kitten. Starts w/o need of choke and feels like its idling at 1 rpm. Super low idle. I ride it right after the mix screw adjustments for a bit and it felt really good. Soooo smooth and it idles with ease very low, probably too low.

Do you think riding it for under 5 minutes under those lean conditions ruined the piston? I mean it feels fine and if anything I imagine getting it diale and riding it again probably helped cool it off properly.

It's Soo smooth and idles well, starts Soo easy. I just hope I didn't damage anything by having it so lean.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:55 PM   #233
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Fixed spelling. My bad.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:28 PM   #234
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No, you did not cause any damage.The lean carburetor problem takes a lot longer to do it's damage. If it was any faster an effect tho every gear head here would have more ruined machines to his name.

I think I remember that you do not have a tachometer? Do not have the idle rpm set too low. They can idle quit low but too low is another of those things that will cause problems. The red light for the charging system will probably come on but under no circumstances is the yellow oil light to come on or even flicker.

It would be a nice thing to fix the tachometer. Any plans for this?

Will start with out the enrichner if it has been running recently and/or it's warm out. Winter time you will use the enrichners.

Your next step should be to get the carbs balanced.
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Old 09-26-2012, 07:56 PM   #235
tete OP
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Gilbert Az
Oddometer: 348
What should I use to balance them? I guess carb sync / balance is the same thing. Like everything else for an airhead I imagine it probably a special unit.

I was going to order the acewell, probably this weekend. I'm not doing a restore and the acewell seems like a good overall unit. And will go with the final look I want. I really would prefer the VDO gauges but I could find nothing on hooking them up. Others seem to have had succes w the acewell.


Also I notice my steering tightener adjustment thing is leaking. Looks like something that would hold open a tailgate on a hatchback.

I really want to say thanks for all your help. I can't imagine how I would have gotten on solo. I wish u guys could see my face after I got it running good. That single moment won't be forgotten. Still a lot I work to do but I feel like the worse is behind me. Now I can focus on getting it dialed and at some point riding. Can't wait.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:12 PM   #236
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I think I've seen reference to the Acewell speedo. Does this include a Tach?

The steering damper is not needed. You can take it off and put the parts in a box. You may want it back on the bikes someday but a new shock for the OM unit costs a hundred dollars at least and you don't need it on a properly working front end.

Just make sure you are current on your dues. Us old farts are depending on that.
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:58 AM   #237
tete OP
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Yeah, I believe the acewell is a speedo and tach in one unit. I have to do more research but I believe installation is a simple affair and they even make speedo cable / to the trans - something to that nature. Obviously I need tot research it a bit more before I order.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:17 AM   #238
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There are many different methods of balancing the carbs. Most of the over the counter machines that claim to give you the majestic powers to arrive at a perfectly tuned and balanced Airhead cost over a hundred dollars. If you make it to a Tech Day anywhere near you anytime you may find somebody there with one of these magical devices. Watch how they are used and see if you can talk the guy into trying it on your bike. It might give you a little bit of a better out come but the shorting the plugs out balance method is hard to beat. In the interum I suggest you learn how to balance the carbs by the shorting method. The extra tools needed cost less than $13 or you can make them yourself for about $3.


Did you save the spark plug threaded terminal that goes on the top of the plug? You know most engines use this round piece for the plug wire to contact but our bikes are setup to have the plug wire engage the threads. If you take these to your neighborhood hardware store you will most likely be able to find the thread size in a longer screw. I believe they are 4 mm size. You are going to cut the head off the screw to make a threaded rod. Get something at least 2 inches long. They should have it if they have a complete nuts & bolts center in your hardware store. Get two screws and another two nuts for your new tool.

The picture is not too clear but we are going to make the tool you see in the last picture I posted above. The blue picture.

Our you can order this tool from Northwoods Airheads for a total of $13.00;

http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html

Please let me know if you are interested in the rest of this discussion about balancing the carbs. If you are going to buy a machine I'll save my breath.
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Old 09-27-2012, 11:21 AM   #239
tete OP
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Please carry on. I will try the 13$ method until I blow something up.

Then I'll worry about buying an expensive tool.

I still have to buy tires, tach, paint, etc.

A penny saved goes a long way.
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:54 PM   #240
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I need to ask you what kind of ignition you have on this bike? Is the ignition stock as in points and condenser only, no booster box? I know this info is berried somewhere back there in this thread, but I'm not going to go look for it. I think it is stock.

We used to merely disconnect the plug wires and lay them loosely on top of the plugs. The bike would then run at idle on the center stand. The plug wires were lifted one at a time to see if the cylinders were in balance. We are not allowed to do that any more even with the stock points and condenser system. It can cause damage even to a non-electronic system. If the system has any kind of a booster or electronic up grade it will most certainly cause hundreds of dollars of damage to the components. If you see others balance carbs this way I still advise not to do it. The problems caused are usually not immediate and when they show up, later, they are hard to diagnose.

Set the idle mixture screws one turn out. Leave them there.

You have bought or made the threaded rods which will be needed for carb tuning. What is needed is the two sides in balance. Any out of balance causes loss of power and vibration. Install the rod onto the plug and tighten it a small amount with a wrench. Place plug wire firmly on the other end. By using a screwdriver against the rod and contacting one of the fins it is possible to short out one side and then another. If the left side is shorted then the bike is running on the right and vice versa. When you are doing this the engine may die and need restarting. After each plug shorting before moving to the other side the engine needs to be revved. Gas will pool inside the intakes and the bike will idle a little funny sometimes. Rev the engine and try both sides. If the bike is running stronger on one side then raise the idle speed screw on the other or reduce the speed screw on the stronger side. When you have the two cylinders both pulling the same amount they are in balance.

Back in the days when we had real gasoline the side running would fire two or three times and die. We only counted the # of times each cylinder fired. On today's gasoline it doesn't seem to work the same. At least for me, on my bike. You will end up with a setting that runs the bike, barely, on either cylinder or if the bike dies count the number of firings before it dies. What ever it is doing you want doth sides to do exactly the same.

It is possible to over heat the Airhead engine when doing all this idling while trying to balance the carbs. As a general rule limit idling to 5 mins. You will learn to do this in the allotted time but in the beginning you may have to stop because you are taking longer. You can also set up a large box fan in front of the engine which will extend time you can idle. You are the temperature gauge for the bike. If you feel the engine is running too hot it probably is. So stop for awhile or pull out the fan.

This is my take on balancing the carbs at idle. Next up we will attempt to set the cables in sync.
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