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Old 09-29-2012, 02:20 PM   #256
tete OP
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Gilbert Az
Oddometer: 348
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
Leave your timing light hooked up when you turn the key off.
If it continues to flash than your ignition switch is not doing it's job and you have your Boyer connected to an always hot lead. Needs to be powered by a switched lead.

If it does stop flashing you're dieseling, but I'm tempted to say that your Boyer may be hooked up wrong.

BTW, that plug looks great which reinforces my suspicion that the Boyer is hooked up wrong.
Great idea.!
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:33 PM   #257
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Ok I did you suggestion and you are right. With the ignition off the timing light still fired.

I'll have to look and see how I have it wired tomorrow. The timing is very close to being on tho. I went ahead and checked it again Here is about what it looks like.

I just have to get the wiring sorted out and see what's next.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:37 PM   #258
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Well that sounds better. I thought it was still running hot because maybe you never said it wasn't.

Mysterious thing about the Boyer might be hot. If so it should also power the rest of the bike but maybe not. We're really curious about this particular problem. It's not a common thing with Airheads. I think.

Kai Ju's idea about the timing light will be easier than my idea about testing at the coils.

Glad you are finally getting to use the timing light we made you buy.

BTW, your R90/6 will blow your buddy's R75/5 away.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #259
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You asked earlier and neither of us answered you, I think. Spark plugs will be fine if tightened just a hair past hand tight. They are not holding anything. They have to only not fall out and even if they did just put them back in. I tighten mine less than 1/8 turn past hand tight.
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:49 AM   #260
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It sounds like you have the power feed to the Boyer hooked to something that is hot always. It should be switched, so the Boyer is only hot when the key is on. On my Booster I used the blue/green or green/blue wire that feeds switched current to the coils. This is how it was diagrammed on the instructions. Maybe your instructions aren't as complete or something. On all of these units the blue/green wire will work because it is the hot wire to the coils when you don't have electronic. It is the wire that goes to the outer terminal of the left hand coil.

The bike is rideable with that much too much advance but I wouldn't leave it there. I've had this myself and eventually got the dot down to where it belongs. It seems just a little happier.

I currently have to retime my R90 because the points block has worn it seems. Us Booster guys have to do that. You don't have to do that once you get it right, right? But by all means do get it right.
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Old 09-30-2012, 05:02 PM   #261
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I went ahead and reset the timing. Spot on now. Now I need to do another valve adjustment just to get her a bit more dialed in.

As for shutting it down I still have not addressed that. But hope to this week. I did look it over and can't see an area in which I screwed up. Maybe because its connected directly to the battery? But that's how the instructions suggested to do it. I mean, the battery is always on lol. So that's the only thing that makes sense.
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Old 09-30-2012, 05:19 PM   #262
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Ok so on the back if the intructions there was a note: it states -"we have found that some pre-1979 models, when fitted with the ignition, fail to stop running when the kill switch it operated. This is due to the very small current required to keep the electronics running. To overcome this problem you can operate the brake light or rewire the system to take all its power from the standard ignition wiring.

To do this the red wire and fuse are totally disconnected and removed. The green wires are both joined to the +15 of the left hand coil. The male terminal on the ignition box will require changing to female. "

I can certify my self as a dumbass.

This all makes perfect sense. Maybe I should read ALL the instructions next time.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:38 PM   #263
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OK with the Boyer now wired correctly and the timing set the bike , runs, idles, stop, starts, as it should very smooth and extremely happy. I don't knw if I'm in too deep or not, I mean, i got it for 1300 I probably put $400 into it. and it seems to be a good running bike. $200 for boyer ,$200 , oil filer, airfilter, carb rebuild kits, and a few other bits here and there.

Here is the to do list:

install oil pan gasket, change oil again and replace filter again.

Install throttle cable, clutch cable, and some other cable - rear drum?

Lube splines and add oil for transmission? drain and fill i guess?

Remove front wheel, paint front and rear, add new tires - Rear as well.

Need to flush out old brake fluid for new. Any recommendations?

install acewell.

paint tanks

finish re-upholstery on the seat

So even though it took me 18 pages to get to this point I am far from finished.

The good thing is I have most of the parts needed sitting in front of me. Just need to get back at it.

all the above plus a proper cleaning. more pics to come.

Thanks again guys for getting me this far.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:36 PM   #264
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"Need to flush out old brake fluid for new. Any recommendations? " Tete said.

BMW specifies type 4 brake fluid. In an emergency you can use type 3 it is compatible with 4. It is a pretty straight forward job. One person can do it usually on these bikes. Crack the bleed nipple on the caliper and give a few squeezes of the brake lever. Close nipple and add brake fluid to Master Cylinder. Keep this up until the fluid coming out of the caliper is all new fluid then do it for a little longer to make sure then wrap it up. Wash all spilt brake fluid off with soapy water and rinse well, brake fluid is water soluble. If any brake fluid gets on painted surface while you are doing this rinse it off immediately. Brake fluid will eat paint, and some other things, usually plastic things. It doesn't hurt metals much but could discolor Aluminum I guess.

One point to remember is to not let all the fluid be pumped out of the MC at any time. If the MC runs dry there can be air introduced and you don't want that to happen. Make sure you add fresh fluid before the MC is too low.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:46 AM   #265
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Two throttles and a clutch, then a cable to go from front brake to mc?
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Old 10-05-2012, 01:17 PM   #266
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Got most of the paint off. I'm not going to paint the tank. Just going for that patina look. The tank will have more character than in this pic. But for now. ....


I'm going for that raw look. Black fenders. Black wheels. Etc.
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:43 PM   #267
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Originally Posted by tete View Post
Got most of the paint off. I'm not going to paint the tank. Just going for that patina look. The tank will have more character than in this pic. But for now. ....


I'm going for that raw look. Black fenders. Black wheels. Etc.
You need to at least clear coat, or rub oil on the tank to keep it from rusting.
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:31 PM   #268
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Yea will do. If I do oil what kind? And if I do oil today can I clear coat over the oil later?
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:15 PM   #269
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I'm considering the same with a tank, and the simplist thing seems to be to polish the bare metal as much as you want then just clear coat the darn thing.
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Old 10-05-2012, 05:42 PM   #270
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Yeah clear is what I wa thinking but oil might tint the metal a bit making it look a bit more rustic

I'm pretty happy with where I'm at. This is just a mock up to get me excited,It's not perfect and that's the way I wanted it. I don't want it to look like I was lazy either. It has A few small specks here and there from the previous paint but I think it adds to the story a bit. I plan on painting the canal / part that goes over the frame black.

Got these Magura grips as well

Things are coming along. Gotta get the fenders off now and start primer there. Gonna go black on those. I'm debating about doing the rear or eliminating it with boxer metals block off fender plates. But then I gotta figure out the tail light. Ungh. @bmweuro do you have a pic of a bike w the fender plates instead of a fender?
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