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Old 08-27-2012, 03:05 PM   #16
chasbmw
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Oddometer: 1,687
Looks good, nice bike.

I suggest all new fluids, regrease wheel and swinging arm bearings, I strongly suggest clean and regrease of headstock bearings.

On the starter issue, you need to find out what you have, count the teeth on the ring gear, 92 teeth = 8 tooth starter, 111 teeth = 9 tooth starter. If it is an 8 tooth a rebuild of the starter is the most cost effective solution, but new solenoids for the 8 tooth starters are difficult to find. If you have a 9 tooth starter then the cheapo Chinese Valeo copy will work fine.

Starter problems can be due to starter relay problems and remember that 90% of airhead electrical problems are down to corrosion of the red leads at the starter relay.

A carburetor rebuild kit is very worthwhile.

Treat this bike as a long term project and remind your wife how much cheaper parts are than depreciation on a new one!
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:23 PM   #17
tete OP
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Wow. Great feedback and input. I expect to have this bike running sooner than perhaps I let on. Especially when the other Honda sells. It will have to be a long term project till it Is complete. But as far as running and reliable I expect a month or so.

This may be ambitious but better than sleeping on it.

First order of business is getting the battery and to see where the downfall of the starter truly is. (60$)

As well as basic fluid changes and lubrication as well as plugs. (60$)
New carb fuel lines and rebuilds will probably run about (60$) as well.

So for what I figure is about 180$ I should be able to at least source the basic problems and where they exist.

A battery tender I image is a good idea as well +$25. This to me is all within reason. Once we discover the reals problems, which I'm sure will exist, we can see how to cross those bridges.

If anyone has a couple other things I should consider it any parts they are selling that I have mention please PM me

The tires will be the very last thing I do as I don't expect to be riding this thing anywhere for a bit.

I plan on doing a 600 mile road trip in Jan. on THIS bike.

Yep.

I know I have extra parts to sell, not everything is pictured. Extra mirrors, fenders, other bits here and there, that I will list in the classifieds to help fund this project. And I will most certainly join AzAirheads.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:26 PM   #18
tete OP
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There is alot I can do on this bike at little cost. Like cleaning it!!!!!
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:07 AM   #19
tete OP
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stuff

So I decided to go through my box of parts that I received with the bike. If you guys could fill me in on some of this stuff that would be great. Is all of it simply bolt on mods or does this require modifications? I wasn't sure if I should post here or in the thrift mart sticky so I took the safer route. If you are looking for any of these send me a PM and once I determine what direction I am going with the bike, perhaps we can make a deal, feel free to include an offer as I need cash to get this girl rollin'. all parts look to be genuine BMW parts.

Here is the tank, no dents a scratch as in the picture but no dents anywhere. looks good inside. matching fenders


here is the cap

fairing and parts that go along with it such as plenty of bracket, as well as the gauges and gauge holder.


mirrors - I got 4 of these. all the same I believe

seat cowl of a 100T?

some koni shocks - look to be pretty nice!


And bracket for saddlebag/cases - genuine BMW stamped and in new or like new condition - have both left and right sides and cowl as well.


If the pictures are too big please send me a message to make them smaller. I will gladly downsize them (all taken with iphone.

I also found the OEM pump. Where does that fit on the bike?

Additionally there are all kinds of odds and ends that maybe applicable with some of the above such as brackets, wires, bolt and nuts etc..

thanks
again for your help.

tete screwed with this post 08-28-2012 at 07:10 AM Reason: pictures!
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:17 AM   #20
ontic
 
Joined: Jul 2008
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put these Konis on your bike, unless they are shot then they are better than the ones you have on there at the moment.
If they are shot, then you can rebuild them. Koni are no more, but Ikon bought out their rights or something like that... so you can get the rebuild stuff from here
http://www.ikonsuspension.com/
I've got a set of Ikons on the bike and Konis on the shelf. They are pretty good.
I got a whole bike in parts as spares when I bought my 90/6.

I like your bike. The blue is great. Good score.
I'll leave the rest of the parts to others.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:31 AM   #21
tete OP
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The konis look to be in fine shape. Everything was stored away very neatly. And well taken care of. This was by no means a barn yard find.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:36 AM   #22
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The tank looks like a /7 or later to me. Might end up with a gap between the tank and seat, but not sure. A version of the larger tank is desireable over what you've got (4.5 gals or so), so I'd check fitment and then decide whether to sell the tank. The gas cap you show should fit the tank - but just leave it off for now - we can discuss stuck gas caps later. Your mirrors are, I think, the longer stem OEM mirrors that you would use if you mount your S fairing. Can't tell what's in the little plastic bag, but I'm not seeing the mounting hardware for the fairing. You really need that hardware to get serious about mounting the fairing. The voltmeter and clock are the "green faced" later versions: not OEM for your yeargroup, but they'll work fine and will fit in the S fairing fine. Can't really tell, but the Koni shocks look pretty good - the 7610's were stock for that bike and are great provided they're not worn out. I'd keep that front fender - if it's correct for your bike, you might want to eventually paint it and replace the existing front fender which a PO did a bodge job on with mounting the brake line bracket (incorrectly) to it.

The pump mounts under the seat on the driver's side subframe rail - you'll find a little mounting peg there.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:39 AM   #23
Foot dragger
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I brought a 76 /6 back from the dead once,I dont think it was much over 3500.00 before it was at the point where it needed cosmetics and a top end rebuild/timing chain/look at the gearbox. Its probably best to cash out the children's college fund now.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:40 AM   #24
tete OP
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There looks to be plenty of additional hardware not pictured. I would assume the stuff bundled with the fairing and gauges all work to mount it up.
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:15 AM   #25
disston
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It looks to me that somebody was building themselves an R90S from an R90/6. Have you run the serial number yet to see what it really is? If in fact it is an S bike it is a primo score. But like I say I think somebody was building an S bike which is still a nice deal to do.

Run the 7 digit # stamped into the head stock and checked against the number above the dipstick hole on this site; http://realoem.com/bmw/

The R90S tanks look like the /7 tanks and they might be but I think there is some minor difference. It fits like a /7 tank anyway and will match that seat frame you have once it is finished, need a little more parts collecting. If you use a /7 tank with a /6 seat, what you have now, there will be a larger gap between seat and tank. That's doable though.

The front fender is a /6 not an S fender.

You have 90% of everything needed for this mod. Will need the parts to make a dual front brake set up. But most of the serious money has already been spent. If you have a different vision or want to go in another direction there's money in those parts.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:49 PM   #26
tete OP
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well...

using the website RealOEM.com it states the bike is a R90/6 manufactured 5/75.

So if I understand you guys correctly for the best fitment with no modifications are:

If I use the R90/7 tank then I should use a R90/7 seat as well.

and or R90/6 tank and R90/6 seat.

This would result in a seat and tank combo with no gaps.

Either way it should be a simple bolt on / Slide on affair ?

I don't see myself using the fairing. or those gauges so if any of you are interested feel free to shoot me an offer. I will also post in the thrift section You will have to guide me through the hardware, as I am sure it's there just would have to account for it.


I don't care for the R100 cowl seat frame as well.

I haven't decided about the saddle bag / case mounting hardware yet.

The wheels I actually like. I generally hate mags, as most my hondas have wire wheels but I think the mags will add a more aggressive look. I have to find out if these Lesters can be ran tubeless.

tete screwed with this post 08-28-2012 at 12:52 PM Reason: removed text
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:08 PM   #27
tete OP
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I went ahead and remove the oil today. I figured this would at least begin to tell the story of the bike. To my surprised the oil looked relatively fresh. not black at all and didn't have a chemical residue or anything that would indicate any breakdown.

I also went ahead and removed the float bowl to see how it would look.

Once again I was pleasantly surprised in that it wasn't as bad as some of the bikes I have worked on in the past. As a matter of fact everything look really good and moved freely. The gas had not turned to gel by any means.




also I was looking at my seat and I am starting to wonder if I already have a /7 seat going. there seems to be a large gap on the seat tank meet - see attached.



SO far I'm actually please with what I have seen and think this will be running much sooner than later.

I have a carb rebuild kit coming and then a battery. Then I can start electrical to find if it really is the starter.

I also visited a BMW mechanic and he said the starters on these bikes are really heavy duty and more than likely something else failed.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:00 PM   #28
Bigger Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
I brought a 76 /6 back from the dead once,I dont think it was much over 3500.00 before it was at the point where it needed cosmetics and a top end rebuild/timing chain/look at the gearbox. Its probably best to cash out the children's college fund now.

You gave up too soon.










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Old 08-28-2012, 09:11 PM   #29
Bigger Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tete View Post
using the website RealOEM.com it states the bike is a R90/6 manufactured 5/75.

So if I understand you guys correctly for the best fitment with no modifications are:

If I use the R90/7 tank then I should use a R90/7 seat as well.

and or R90/6 tank and R90/6 seat.

This would result in a seat and tank combo with no gaps.

Either way it should be a simple bolt on / Slide on affair ?

I don't see myself using the fairing. or those gauges so if any of you are interested feel free to shoot me an offer. I will also post in the thrift section You will have to guide me through the hardware, as I am sure it's there just would have to account for it.


I don't care for the R100 cowl seat frame as well.

I haven't decided about the saddle bag / case mounting hardware yet.

The wheels I actually like. I generally hate mags, as most my hondas have wire wheels but I think the mags will add a more aggressive look. I have to find out if these Lesters can be ran tubeless.
Just for future reference, there was no R90/7, but rather an R100/7. Not a big deal, but it might help figure out what you need with less effort on your part.

The silver tank is from a /7, and is longer, hence it won't fit with the smaller /6 seat that is on the bike. You can find used seats pretty easily, and the prices are all over the map due to condition and such.
Once you have the matching /7 stuff it will just bolt/slide on.

You can try to fit the other tank and your current seat to see it things match up. One of the nicest things about an Airhead is that they're easy to work on.

You'll get a metric shit-ton of opinions about running the Lesters and early BMW mags tubeless, but it's not a good idea. Neither wheel comes with a safety bead that will help keep the tire in place in the event of a flat, and the Lesters are known to be pourous at times depending on condition. Running tubes can be a PIA, but in this case it's the safest option.


I swapped my starter out to a newer model Valeo from Euro Moto Electric, and installed the Odyssey PC680 battery. My bike has never started better. Again, you'll get varying opinions on the quality of the Valeos, and there is nothing at all wrong with rebuilding your current Bosch. Once done it'll last a long, long time.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:43 PM   #30
tete OP
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Thanks I'll look into your setup. The key here is to do this once and move on. Get the right battery and starter set up first time around. Also is there replacement electrical kits that are know to eliminate alot of the electrical bugaboos that exist? I'd like to knock it all out at the same time if possible.

Sold my other Honda. Flood gates just opened.
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