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Old 03-25-2013, 02:54 PM   #391
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tete View Post
No concern w the hack job on the cover. However please let me know if you have a smoother way to run the hose. I have it running from my outlet to a old prince Alberta cigar can. Either way more blue smoke from right carb.

Thanks for the advice on the konis and such. I don't have the liberty of changing everything at once. All the "looks" stuff was either free dollars or very cheap.

Thanks for all the advice and will hear you out on all that I can. I will look at the koni dials. As well as the front shocks but to be honest that will have to wait. I have a bud who is parting out a bike w dual disk up front. I'm trying to get that coming my way.

As always adv has great advice. Thanks again.

Sent from iPhone.
But the breather back to stock and see about the smoke. But you got something worn in any event, I'm betting a valve guide. Look inside the rocker cover at the build uo, look through the spark plug hole with the valve open to see the valve lip and do a wet and dry compression check.

Pistons move in and out at the same time. When they are moving in one side is on the power stroke, the other on the intake. As they move down they compress the air in the crankcase. But at the same time the piston on the intake stroke is sucking on the intake manifold. so the crankcase is higher than atmospheric pressure and the intake is lower than atmospheric pressure. The crankcase pressure gets sucked into the intake. A reed valve (poppet on earlier and should be changed) keeps the flow from going the other way and lets the crankcase get negative on the piston up stroke. You use the intake vacuum assist in preventing power robbing (and oil blowing) pressure from building in the crank case. Vent to the atmosphere and you lose this boost (and some top end lubrication). Now the engine pumps first against the reed valve and then only has atmospheric pressure to vent to (rather than a low pressure intake). Go to the atmosphere and you want the vents really big and any hoses really short and any filters really free flowing.

Or you could not do it and say you did..





Free and very cheap is always good.


You do the hose with a bulkhead fitting. Probably make one in this case. But you drill a clean hole for your fitting. Hose attaches to barbs inside and outside the fitting. very clean and you can point that barb any way you want so the hose lays flat and clean to the case. I'm working on one, I'll shoot you a pic when it's farther along.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:25 PM   #392
tete OP
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Sweet. Look forward to seeing your result. I actually thought it my be something w the valves as well. I talk to a machine shop guy recently about my bike and he said the same thing. He said I could ride if like this and no real trouble. I plan on rebuilding over the summer. In which I hope to address alot of these issues.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:25 PM   #393
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This is how mine currently looks. Certainly not winning any "show" awards.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:03 PM   #394
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^Nice! I love to see evidence that not everyone take this stuff too seriously.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:08 PM   #395
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Sweet. Look forward to seeing your result. I actually thought it my be something w the valves as well. I talk to a machine shop guy recently about my bike and he said the same thing. He said I could ride if like this and no real trouble. I plan on rebuilding over the summer. In which I hope to address alot of these issues.
"mommy, why's that mans' motorcycle on fire?"

"It's some just smoke, honey".

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Old 03-25-2013, 06:17 PM   #396
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I like the way Tete has plumed this. Also gets the hose out of the intake runner.
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Old 03-25-2013, 07:08 PM   #397
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Originally Posted by JonnyCash View Post
^Nice! I love to see evidence that not everyone take this stuff too seriously.
I'll take this as a compliment.

I mean, i'm from panama, I've seen some pretty shady stuff that has a bike rollin for years. I'm never going to have a trailer queen or the perfect bike.. If it passes emissions, and gets me to work, alive. then Im cool with it. My bike aint pretty, not the fastest. But currently it's not blowing out blue smoke, dripping oil from underneath, and starts and stops when I need it to. Im not sure in my current condition I could ask for more.

With the help from alot of people here Im pretty happy to be where I am at with it.
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Old 03-26-2013, 06:44 AM   #398
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I meant for you to take it that way.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:30 PM   #399
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I've really learned a lot from this build! great info
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:24 PM   #400
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Well thanks man even tho this summer the real fun starts. Rebuild etc. stay tuned. Certainly I literally know nothing about these bikes. So I'm learning from the guys. I also don't believe it always has to be perfect or expensive. Some times close enough is going to have to good enough. I'm on the road rolling and passing emissions. Two things that at one point seemed impossible. There are guys on this forum that have done everything except literally turn my wrenches for me. Pretty awesome. I'll never see these guys or be able to pay them back but they still do it for me and others. Pretty darn cool.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:17 PM   #401
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/snip I also don't believe it always has to be perfect or expensive. /snip.
You're not going to make it...
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:32 PM   #402
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Back on an Airhead - 1975 BMW R90/6

Hey guys I wanted to say thanks for all your help with this bike. It ran great when done and I lived my time learning and screwing things up. I recently sold it back to the guy I bought it from. It was his fathers that passed away and it made sense to sell it back to the original owners son. A good kid and I hope he keeps it in the family for years to come. A special thanks to Charlie and a few others who honestly walked me thru wrench by wrench on some stuff and were very patient. Thanks again.
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tete screwed with this post 08-30-2013 at 11:40 PM
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:14 AM   #403
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Good Luck Tete. It's now motorcycle buying season so you will have a new bike soon I think. maybe you can get the big brother of this last one, the bike you say in your profile you want anyway, a 1977 R100/7 (or did you want another model?) Those bikes should be plentiful. I had an R100S a few year ago. Still have lots of it in boxes . Any bike after and including 1976 has the 99mm spigots and will take the modern cylinders. So this is a good feature. Some riders really like the more modern bikes and want the lighter flywheel or the shift up date kit...some of these things can be put on or in an older bike but I like the look of the older bikes better. Stay Loose man!
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:30 AM   #404
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I probably should have mentioned I picked this up today 80 r100rs in prestine condition. Just hasn't been started since 2005. 34k miles. Looks like we'll be keeping this story going for a bit longer.

There are Zero issues witht he bike other than it hasn't been started. It was parked in a climate controlled storage since 2005. The gas was drained when stored however the oil was not. Has a deep sump pan and an oil cooler.

Here we go again but don't really know where to start.

I figure a new battery and some gasoline. Do I need to lube parts before going? Ill look at the bowls in the morning and see of there is gunk there. I honestly haven't even cracked into it. If you guys have a procedure for the barn finds let me know. I'm all ears.
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Old 08-31-2013, 01:51 AM   #405
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It would be better to start another thread right away but it sounds great. The last of the heavy flywheel bikes and even though inside a bean can it has ignition points. RS is a great model. I think the best looking of the Airheads. And Nikelsil cylinders will fit someday.

The oil is old enough to drain, engine oil, and replace before circulating. It is going to need changing again after it has been started but I would do this much to it. The insides are very dry and no oil is on anything. Then the motor can be turned over with the starter and the plugs out to pressurize the system. After just a little of that the engine has wetted everything except the cylinder walls and rings. They get lubed by splash while the engine is running. Spray a little oil into each cylinder, it's not perfect but it's good enough.

Use 10w-40 or even 10w-30 for this first oil change. It is going to be taken out and the filter changed after warm up so I guess cheap oil is good enough. Then replace with 20w-50.

I think the gear oils can wait.

The float bowls won't be too bad hopefully.
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