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Old 09-04-2012, 05:43 AM   #61
Horsehockey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tete View Post
I have a question. is it needed to remove the spring assemble on the butterfly / throttle connection and remove those parts to clean? I used some carb cleaner and removed most of the gunk.

Also where do i get rweal seafoam? and also how much do I add per gallon of gasoline? what is the dilution.
No, you need not remove the throttle spring or levers to clean them. Seafoam is available at NAPA and most other auto parts stores. Some hardware stores sell it too. Dilution rate is specified on the can. About 1 oz. per gallon IIRC.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:08 AM   #62
tete OP
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Dumb question: how do you clean the gunk off the floats without damaging them?


2 hours later:

I went ahead and just decided to float them in simple green.

hopefully it doesn't ruin them

Im surprised how much different the two different carbs are.


for some reason I thought they would be identical

tete screwed with this post 09-04-2012 at 09:12 AM
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:25 AM   #63
disston
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There are several parts in the carbs that are wear items that may strike you as over kill or a waste of time or something like that. I take my carbs apart to clean them. Others report getting them clean by soaking in either Simple Green or Pine Sol? I've not tried either idea on carbs. I have compressed air so it is easy to blow through them and get all the jets very clean, I still use a complete can of Named Brand spray carb cleaner on each carb when I do this. It takes a little bit more than one can so 3 cans does one bike.

The floats turn yellow with age. It is an indication they are soaking up the gasahol they work with and they may need changing. Try floating them in a pan or something you have enough gasahol in to float them in. If they look like they have good buoyancy you might be OK. That's the deal, they float, when they get gas soaked they stop floating so they sink. Then there is the test by weight method. You need an accurate triple beam scale, an accurate scale of some kind. And test to see if they are getting heavier. I'm not sure but think new they weigh 12 grams. You can find a whole lot more info on testing floats on Snowbum's Web Site.

I usually end up replacing them every few years. Not sure how old the ones I have now are. I think only a year. I replace the needles when I replace the floats. There is another problem with the needles. It is the seats that need replacing and that gets a little more specialized. The part is only available from Bing.

So we've talked about the floats and needles, I think Bill covered the diaphragms, be sure the enrichners are not put on the wrong carb. Locktight, Blue, the enrichners screws.

There is one other thing to cover. The needle and the jet. I have to use links so you will see the diagrams, sorry.

Part #9 on this page is the jet that the needle works in;

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...92&hg=13&fg=11

Part #1 on this page is the needle;

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...95&hg=13&fg=11

These are wear parts. The needle rubs inside the jet. Both items are replaced. Bing says these parts start to show signs of wear at 25K miles. (I think they want to sell more jets!) You can probably get better than that out of them but some riders will replace on Bings schedule.

Good luck with the carb rebuild. There is a lot to it.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:45 PM   #64
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everything is getting pretty clean. Tomorrow I will get some air thru all the holes etc and start looking forward towards re-assembly. I'll take it slow and try to get it right the first time..... well even though I am e-using the jets and needles. If they are no good, I'll know pretty quick and now since I am getting a better understanding can see it's pretty easy to replace. I also got new cables both throttle and clutch as well as brake. Battery should be here soon. and we can start moving in the direction of starting it.

I still have the tank to get to as well as well as a few other things, the main thing is we are moving forward. Hopefully this weekend I can get enough done to start it.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:39 PM   #65
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a few moer things to note.

The floats float fine. I decided to leave them in simple green overnight. so remove any gunk on them. Also left the carbs in simple green another night even tho they look great already.

I've kept both carbs and thier components seperate from one another. Also which are the enrchment screws. Im sure i'll find out in the clymers manual.

Should I put some lube on the orings before I put them back in the crab body? if so what kind is recommended?

also do you put any kind of gasket seal in addition to the floatbowl / choke assembly?

do you locktite any of the other screws?

Also seems that my choke assembly is stuck and does not move freely I will take it apart and take a closer look tomorrow.

the butterlfy, altho moves freely now, that return spring is pretty stiff, is that normal?

The butterfly does seal very good and all the gunk is out of there.

thanks
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:02 AM   #66
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It is my understanding that the Styrofoam floats are coated with something. Sort of like shellac. But we have never found any substitute to seal them against the Gasohol. I mention this because I also don't know if Simple Green is any good for them? Good Luck with that.

The thing you are calling the Choke is the Enrichner. The four screws for the Enrichners should have Locktight Blue. You can also use a thin layer of RTV or other sealant. The Gaskets for the Enrichners do get blown out and go bad causing poor performance. This is the only place on the carbs that should ordinarily get Locktight or RTV.

No sealant on the float bowl gaskets. In use it will sometimes be necessary to pull the bowls off to inspect for debris or water in the gas. Sometimes we look in the bowls just to see if there is any gas. Those cork gaskets on the float bowls work very well if they are installed properly. (Oh, I have put some motor oil on used ones that were a little dry. But if they get too old you need new ones. They do last a long, long time.)

I lube O-rings with a Silicone type spray lube. You can use axle grease or motor oil. You can lube the O-rings with spit for that mater. The only purpose is to help installation with out damaging the O-rings.

You may have the nut too tight on the enrichner. This causes them to bind up.

There is an after market throttle return spring that alleviates some of the problem with throttles being too stiff. These are called EZ Throttle Springs. They can be found at many parts supplier houses. Ask for them. Many dealers will even have them. I think Bob's is out of stock though.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:24 AM   #67
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Okay. So this morning I finished cleaning the carbs. They are drying at as outdoor temp in a clean location. I remove the gas tank and mixed seafoam in with the gallon or so of gas and shook the hell out of it. I drained the gas and then cleaned it with water and left it to air dry. I will do that proceedire again a few more times the reassemble. I will run seafoam and gas in the first few tanks one running. Hopefully that will help as well. No rust by the way.

Then I used that gas in my car. We'll see how that goes. But it is diluted with another ten gallons.

The floats cleaned up well in simple green. And still float how they are suppose to.

I used a can I compressed air, with the needle (made for computers and electronics cleaning) to blow out every possible orifice of the carbs and jets.

The petcocks are off and now I'm waiting to figure my next step with them as the were not gummy and worked fine. They did have a sheath of sorts over the two gas tubes. I will Definetly be using those again. A also have a new washer for them so when I replace.

The air filter was removed it is of k&n variation but I will replace it with a clean one that is not overly saturated with oil.

I should be recieving an oil pan gasket by the end of the week. Which is much needed. Mine is gunky and looks to be leaking.

I'm sure it's the first of many leaks but I'll address those after I get it running.


Next I figure I'll re-assemble the carbs, the tank, continue to clean, find a way to
Mount my incoming battery as the lame as chrome battery tray is too big either way. Once that arrives I'll install the battery. By then I shoul have the carbs on as well and ready to see what happens.

I'm not expecting it to turn over as I was told by the PO son that it had a Bad starter or alternator...,?!

I plan on using spray seafoam into the chamber to hopefully help unstick the valves and breakdown some I that shit in there.

Commites to doing everything myself. I hope we can avoid rebuilding the whole damn thing but if that's the way it goes so be it.

Here is a pic of two cocks in my hand.
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:26 AM   #68
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I personally don't like K&N airfilters. Or any of their filters for that mater. I use stock filters. I think they work better and perform better. To each his own.

If you can get those screens clean they are reusable. If they are worn thin or torn at all there is a new style replacement screen that comes with the gasket now part of the screen. The new gasket is aluminum and should last longer. But if you have good screens and gaskets they will work fine.

Under the screen are the straws, part of the petcocks. There is a long straw that feeds the petcock when the lever is down, on main. And a short straw, that is on when the lever is up on reserve. Cut the short straw, if it hasn't been done yet, so that it is only a mm or so higher than the recess it is protruding from. This will give you more reserve gasoline. The main straw can usually be trimmed a little also but you probably want a gallon of reserve so don't cut it too much. Not as much as the reserve straw.

At the other end of the petcock is the nipple that the fuel hose goes to. You are using new fuel hose? There is sometimes a small screen on the nipple end, under that smaller nut.

The whole system as designed held much more water and debris before they needed cleaning. From now on to prevent this from being a problem you should clean the tank every year.

So this bike has not been started for how long? And you are worried about the engine being dry? With fresh oil in the engine it would be a good idea to turn the the engine over several times. You need to disable the ignition when doing this to prevent it from starting. You can do this by disconnecting any wire, primary wire or the normal size wires, not the spark plug wires, going to the coils. There is a blue/green (or some color) wire on the left coil, this one is hot so disconnect the black wire going to the right coil. This removes the points from the circuit and it will be safe to turn the engine over with the starter to circulate the oil.

You do have stock ignition? No electronic conversion?

Run starter for 15 to 20 seconds. Do this twice then let engine sit for at least ten minutes and repeat. Do this as many times as you like but probably at least 5 times. This will get the oil circulated. After the first several times of doing this the starter should be run long enough for the yellow oil light to go out from oil pressure. If the yellow light will not go out with 20 seconds of running the starter there is a problem. But go ahead and try 30 seconds before you tell us about it. The reason for the short bursts with the starter is to not over heat the starter motor.

Do not over tighten the oil pan bolts. They will strip the threads in the block very easily and need to be repaired. The gasket is put on with out any additional sealant. Clean the surfaces well. Assemble dry.

How do you know how the floats are supposed to float? I never know this.
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:00 PM   #69
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Nice detailed explanation of pre-start oil circulation, but at least be smart enough to pull the damned spark plugs so the starter isn't fighting cylinder compression.
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:33 PM   #70
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Old 09-05-2012, 03:37 PM   #71
Biebs
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K&N air filter

2nd on the not using a K&N filter. Get a stock air filter. I had an airhead specialist rebuild my R100GS he took the cylinders off took one look and asked if I was running a K&N filter could tell by the fine scratches in the cylinder walls.

I was not running a K&N filter but bike was new to me so don't know what previous owner used.

But by their own advertisement K&N filters let more air pass by not filtering as well as a stock filter.

2nd but they K&N or other high performance air filter manufacturers are good marketers.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:43 PM   #72
tete OP
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This thing came off any ideas


It looks like it was held on by some rubbish glue. Ill have to clean it off and reapply.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:52 AM   #73
tete OP
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Also I was inspecting the bike more thoroughly while cleaning it and found an oil leak that has me thinking. It's on the jug where it connects to the motor / short block - on the bottom seam as seen here.

Between the two push rods.

the more research I do the more it seams this is probably coming from somewhere else but of course in not convinced. Is a slight oil gather here consistent with any symptoms?

When I say slight I mean just a thin layer as seen in the pic. Keep in mind i drained the bike and have not started it yet. So I assume it's residual from somewhere.

Thanks for any input.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:32 AM   #74
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Likely culprits would be from either the pushrod rubbers or the joint between the crankcase and the cylinder, the cure is the same, remove the cylinders and heads, replace the pushrod rubbers and remake the join between the crankcase and the cylinder, using a tiny smear of gasket seller such as Driebond. this is not that expensive, head gaskets, pushrod rubbers, 2 O rings and I would think about replacing the alloy cylinder base gasket. Whilst you are in there you could treat the bike to a pair of shiny newstainless steel
pushrod covers

I would leave this until you have the engine running and you can see how bad the leak is. It might well be liveable with.
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:42 AM   #75
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NO on the o-rings! Your bike is a 75 model, didn't use them.
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