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Old 03-09-2010, 05:30 PM   #1
MudSling OP
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Question Please Help! Swapping Final Drive

I'm in the midst of swapping my stock 1150GS final drive with a 34/11 FD I got from an R1100RS. Actually the swap is done, however to my disgust the bolt holes for the brake calliper are different.

So the question I have is can I swap the back plate from my stock FD with the one on the new RS FD? It looks like they are the same with the exception of the mount for the calliper. Then I guess the more important question is do I need to shim the bloody thing after I swap the back plate?
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:34 PM   #2
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Shimming...

Lookinmg at the maintenance manual it _looks_ like if I only change the back cover of the housing that I do NOT need to re-shim. The manual does the shimming before installing the cover so it would seem the cover does not effect things, correct?

If that's the case then it would appear I can simply swap covers. I better love this new gearing.
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:37 PM   #3
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Scratch my last post. I just re-read the manual and I do need to re-shim things if I swap the covers.

I guess in theory and assuming everything else remains the same I can measure the depth of the covers and if the same simply swap them, if different then shim them accordingly?
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:35 PM   #4
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Ok, I'm having a conversation with myself here but it's helping.

I've had a close look at both FDs, the difference between the two is that mine (1150GS) has a cover which is thinner just below the calliper mounting flanges, where as the 1100RS FD has a cover which is exactly the same thickness all the way around. It is a small amount of the cover which interferes with my brake calliper.... so... I'm going to pull out my trusty grinder and have at it.

My thinking is that if I try to swap covers I have to re-shim. If I want to shim properly I need to pull the FD off the bike (yet again) which I would prefer not to do and then if I screw it up (not unlikely) I have to replace a bearing and a seal and pay someone down the road. Better off to not open the FD at all. A little grinding and all will be good.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:18 PM   #5
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Hi Chris... you're not alone !
I'm just rebuilding mine... hum, I tried...
I wasn't able to remove the cup , so I bring the FD to a BMW specialist in Ottawa (not good time center) and he will end the job (extract the cup and shim)
Jesse impressed me with is BMW knowledge and is sympathy... He very quickly earned my trust... and trust me, it's not easy when you try to sell me some work

IMHO, shimming is the most important thing if you want your FD last long.
Today, Jesse teatche me the other important thing (and I never read anything about that)



The part #7 is, sometime, moving toward the shaft and then you have the oil contaminated with aloy particle (and then the bearing don't last long)

You have to check, while your FD is open... there's a small hole in the housing at the end of the bevel gear... look closer, you will see the part #7
The end of this part is not supposed to be close to the housing (the hole)
You should have a gap.

This is why my 80.000km FD start leaking (particle, cone bearings worn, play...)

If I was you, I'll take the 2 cover and find someone able to compare the depht ... where the bearing sit in the cover to where the cover sit on the FD (0.01 mm accuracy)
Hope my english is understandable
Good luck

Eric
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgdrake
.../... the 1100RS FD has a cover which is exactly the same thickness all the way around. It is a small amount of the cover which interferes with my brake calliper.... so... I'm going to pull out my trusty grinder and have at it..../...
Did not pay attention to this part... such a dilemma
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:33 AM   #7
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Hey Eric, my problem isn't rebuilding the FD, it's that my brake calliper does not fit the new R1100RS FD I bought to lower the gearing on my bike. Anyhow I think I have a solution I can live with. It involves power tools and I like power tools.

Are you planning on going to the training day on May 9th in Bowmanville, ON? I will be going up with a couple friends, there will be a couple 1150GS's an 800GS and an XR650L. Would be great to see you again.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgdrake
.../...
Are you planning on going to the training day on May 9th in Bowmanville, ON?
What happen there this day ?
Don't know anything about that !
So far, I supposed to be free this weekend ... why not !
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgdrake
.../... Would be great to see you again.
Same for me
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:00 PM   #9
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Differences between FD's

So here are the differences between the 34/11 FD from the R1100RS and the 31/11 from my R1150GS.



R1150GS (Left): Notice that the portion of the cover below the calliper mounting lugs is about half the thickness of the rest of the cover.
R1100RS (Right): Notice the cover is the same thickness all the way around. The area below the calliper mounting lugs interferes with the brake calliper on the 1150GS making it impossible to bolt on.




R1150GS(Left): Inner pivot pin area is different from that of the 1100RS. Notice the rounded corners.
R1100RS(Right): On the RS the inner and outer sides are identical, the sharp corners on the inner pivot pin area contact the inside of the swingarm on the 1150GS.


So, after having looked at a number of pictures of various FD covers I've concluded that I cannot simply grind down the area of the cover which interferes with the calliper. If I were to do that I would likely grind a hole in the cover as it isn't solid aluminium as I initially thought, instead I will need to swap the covers.

Tomorrow I will remove the covers from the FD's so that I can swap them, I'll redo the shimming and also replace the seals. Once that's done I'll take my trusty grinder to the corners on the pivot pin area of the new 1100RS housing and then I should finally be good to go!
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MudSling screwed with this post 03-11-2010 at 08:51 AM
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:37 AM   #10
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I don't know a whole lot about the RS, but how about swapping in a RS caliper? I suppose the rear wheels have the disc in different places?
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:49 AM   #11
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I thought of that, the guy I bought the FD from had the disk and calliper but it was just another set of unknowns and added expense. Looking at the covers from the outside they should be 100% interchangeable and I don't see any indication that there is anything inside which will prevent the swap.

Anyhow I've got the cover from the new FD off, just struggling with getting the old seal out. It's is REALLY hard to remove. Once that's out I will pull mine apart to compare. No going back after that!

Few more pics of the progress.


And the gauge I rigged up to shim them when I put it back together.


Wish me luck!
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:34 AM   #12
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Please take detailed photos of everything, and mention here what do you think that could be some tips & tricks.

I have seen the video of the LT FD re-shimming, but I expect to get more details from someone like you, opening it for the first time.

Dan.
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Old 03-11-2010, 09:24 AM   #13
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Go man go

Good luck Chris. I had mine re-shimmed by Jesse in Ottawa as well. still holding up...
Looks like may 9th is toast for me.
A - it is a Sunday which means we have to get back to Montreal after riding all day.
B - and this is killer....it is G-damn Mother's day!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:04 PM   #14
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Just make sure when you measure the gap inside the housing, the crown moves all the way up and down.
I was measuring mine only to find out that when i turn the fd upside down (the crown was steady and the housing was moving) i had another 0,1 mm of play.
Good luck
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtzanos
Just make sure when you measure the gap inside the housing, the crown moves all the way up and down.
I was measuring mine only to find out that when i turn the fd upside down (the crown was steady and the housing was moving) i had another 0,1 mm of play.
Good luck
Thanks for the pointer. I'm finding it a little difficult to get an accurate measurement. Partly because it seems if the FD is not firmly seated on something solid simply pressing down on the crown bearing to re-seat it will change the measurement slightly. I initially tried to sit the FD on blocks of wood but it wasn't working, I'm now using metal bars of various sizes which seems to be better.

The other problem I'm having is that my initial measurements were taken when the cover was still warm (from removing the crown gear) and since it has cooled I get different results. I expect the shimming should be done with all parts at room temperature? Anyhow that's what I'm doing.

Unfortunately the shim I need is not in stock... nor is the replacement lower shock bolt I've been waiting for (it has yet to arrive from germany!) so I have time to fiddle with things still.
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