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Old 09-01-2012, 01:54 PM   #1
mountain eagle OP
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Wicked Unswitched fan for 950SER

I've always been a tad annoyed with how hot these bikes run. So this last week I changed up to engine ice which claims to shed up to 50 degrees off the water temps. The other equal reasoning was that propylene glycol isn't poisonous for the animals we often have running around. In addition I added the lower temp radiator switch. Even without these additions I didn't like having to wait for the fans to stop before turning the key off. As hot at it could get sometimes it would be a while. Now some feel that since the motor isn't pushing fluid there's no point to having the fans run. Fair enough. I'd just as well let them run like happens on several of the bikes and cars I've had over the years.

Turns out it's a fairly easy task on the SE. I'd guess it's not too different on the ADV but I'll let someone else say yea or nay on that. Since I haven't used either of the stock acc circuits and it was the easiest way to do it, I converted the fan and ACC2 to constant power. Additionally since I'm running the easternbeaver fuesbox it was easy to provide unswitched power.

First locate the fuesbox under the seat. The fan was the fourth fuse in. Unscrew the box so it can lift up and turn it over.



For reference the 16 goes towards the front of the bike, and the fan is number 13. While I think could be done with out removing the female spade, though I think it's easier if you do. Look down the outside edge of the inside and see the holding tab. Squeeze it in and pull out the spade.

You should see that the orange wire which is your switched hot, daisy chains down the fuse block. I chose to interrupt the circuit as it left the fuse before the fan giving me a little wire to tie onto. And snip. If your ACC2 is in use, you could also snip the middle of the wire instead and close snip the wire between the fan and ACC2 at the fan side then jumper the wires to bypass the fan spade.



Crip or solder on a length of wire to take to a constant hot.



Don't forget the shrink tube. The orange wire is where I'm getting my keyed relay power for the switched portion of the PC-8 so I put that back on.



You can see where I used a little vibra-tite to protect the snipped wire. Not it's intended use but it was on hand and would do the job. Note, I use the hell out of this stuff on thumpers and twins.

Then replace the fan spade if you removed it, and replace the fuse block making sure to avoid pinching any wires.

Since it was already in place and handy I just took the new fan/acc2 hot wire to the PC-8 unswitched terminal fused at 10A and done.



Now to be fair, I've no idea where to get unswitched and protected power if you don't have some sort of aftermarket fuse block. Any auto parts store should have inline fuses available that you could take to the battery and would work fine.

Now as quick as the temperature comes up I'm still not convinced it's burped right yet.........

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-03-2012, 02:06 AM   #2
wilso122
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Thank you!

Thanks for taking the time to post this, great info! Will be running a fused live straight from the battery so will post this up when done.

Just a quick question, what is the point of the PC-8? don't mean that its unnecessary just want to understand why its fitted Is it an extra protection to to the main fuse box?

Cheers Wilso.
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:03 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by wilso122 View Post
Thanks for taking the time to post this, great info! Will be running a fused live straight from the battery so will post this up when done.

Just a quick question, what is the point of the PC-8? don't mean that its unnecessary just want to understand why its fitted Is it an extra protection to to the main fuse box?

Cheers Wilso.
In the long run I expect to have more load then the acc1 or acc2 should handle. As well I like to have better control or separation of circuits. The PC-8 or any fuse block is for distribution of power. The protection provided is for the devices that are powered from it. If I were to put a pair of heated grips, GPS and aux running lights. It may be too much for one acc circuit. Additionally each device would only be protected, fused, in the one location. The amperage at which it was fused may be good enough protection for the wire (10A) and the load of the devices combined, but may not protect the individual device such as heated grips which should be fused at 3A or 4A. I'm just starting on my first cup of coffee so I hope this isn't too confusing......
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:18 AM   #4
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that's a great explanation thank you. so if i were to run a socket, sat nav and road book it would help to separate the supply and fuse accordingly rather than generic ampage.. if I've understood correctly.



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Old 09-04-2012, 01:13 AM   #5
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that's a great explanation thank you. so if i were to run a socket, sat nav and road book it would help to separate the supply and fuse accordingly rather than generic ampage.. if I've understood correctly.
Ya, I think your saying the same thing. While it could all be done on one fused circuit, I prefer to break things up and know what's what.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:54 AM   #6
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Top Man!! works a treat, had a horrible up hill first gear slippy slidey, fan kicked in, got off for a break fan kept going with ignition off, stopped then kicked in again as the heat rose

Took a wire from the live behind the battery using an inline micro 10amp blade fuse direct wired to lead as you show above.

Piccy

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Old 09-23-2012, 10:42 AM   #7
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Funny because the EXC models are wired direct to the battery, so on all the time.

A popular modification is to make the fan only run when the engine is running....... to avoid flattening the battery ;)
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:44 AM   #8
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KTM owners, never happy us lot
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Old 09-23-2012, 11:26 AM   #9
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So you keep the fans running the whole time (even when the engine is not hot)?

Keep in mind that this will wear the fans a lot faster than they normally would.
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:07 PM   #10
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No its still on the thermostatic switch so only operates when the engine gets to temp to start the fans. Originally when you turn the key off, fans dont work, not they still do....

My car gets hotter when stopped after a drive, you then hear the fans kick in. Same as the bike, I ride it through london, gets hot and hotter when stopped, so this helps the after-ride cool.

Not permanently on.
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Old 10-13-2012, 12:30 AM   #11
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Update: Yup, As was warned and predicted under low speed and stop and start conditions I drained the battery. So I just kicked the wire over to a switched terminal on the fuse block.

I was doing a bunch of stop and start while trying to tune the suspension at a local track.....



So, hopefully just the fans kicking on 30deg sooner will keep the temps down enough that I won't hit 5 and 6 bars next summer.......
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:16 PM   #12
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Snap

After a day of teking newbies on lanes riding slow, stopping starting the next day the battery was dead as a dodo.....

New battery in, started once and now thats dead! Have put it on charge and reverted back to traditional method.

Wonder if it drawers even if the fan is not going?

Other than that great mod
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:01 PM   #13
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Well we can't be afraid to try new things right?
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:03 PM   #14
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Too right, definitely worth a try and did work well, shame the SE needs so much power from the battery! Nice mod all the same
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