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Old 03-04-2014, 06:39 PM   #1
TNGWag OP
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Location: Knoxville, TN
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Help Needed, KLR Won't Start

First post from a long-time lurker and relatively new member. In advance, sorry for the text-heavy post. Skip to the TLDR if you'd rather avoid my ramblings.

After buying my first bike last October, I took advantage of good weather for my first offroad experience with a buddy who also rides a KLR. I foolishly rode into what I thought to be a shallow puddle and was swallowed by over a foot of silty mud.

After finally extricating the bike, changing the plug, and wringing out the filter, I got the bump started the bike and all seemed well. After this, more problems began.



First, the bike began overheating (so much so that it was boiling). When I killed the engine, the bike would only restart from a bump (lights increasingly weak). Fog and rain rolled in and we could no longer bump start the bike, so I had to leave it on the top of the mountain we were riding.

Predictably, when I went to fetch the bike the next day, the trunk bag was stolen and the bike had been kicked over. I theorize that the freezing rain that made pushing the bike onto my ramp nearly impossible dissuaded would-be thieves from making off with the bike.



I have since put in a new battery (free, thanks to O'Reilly's generous customer service). Turning the key, however, does nothing. No neutral indicator, high beam, turn signal, etc.

Obviously, there are a lot of variables, between the submersion, riding abuse, and night on the top of a mountain in rain, sleet, and snow. My question, however, is where I should begin my search? Not only am I a newcomer to this forum, but I'm also new to bikes and know almost nothing as far as mechanical knowledge is concerned.

In advance, thanks! As promised, the TLDR: Fell in water, battery died, bump started several times, after night in freezing rain bike now totally dead.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:42 PM   #2
clapped_r6
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check fuses. how many volts at battery now?
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:47 PM   #3
TNGWag OP
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Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
check fuses. how many volts at battery now?
Will I need to take off the tank to get to the fuses?

Before night fell I was working to remove the tank.
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Old 03-04-2014, 09:52 PM   #4
flyinfuzz
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I think fuses are under the seat. Crankcase full of water ? Check that the fan is free to spin . I would dump the oil and change the filter anyway .Get a volt meter to check connections . Luck
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:43 PM   #5
clapped_r6
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i would take a look at anywhere water could get in. crankcase, carb, etc. drain the oil to make sure it's not contaminated (with water OR gas) THEN find the electrical problem evidenced by "nothing with the key"
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Old 03-05-2014, 05:54 AM   #6
TNGWag OP
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Originally Posted by clapped_r6 View Post
i would take a look at anywhere water could get in. crankcase, carb, etc. drain the oil to make sure it's not contaminated (with water OR gas) THEN find the electrical problem evidenced by "nothing with the key"
Thanks, good advice. I've ordered a new air filter and will change the oil and plug after class today before tackling some of the other items mentioned.

I did unscrew the carb drain plug yesterday and an outrageous amount of dirty, gassy liquid ran out.
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Old 03-05-2014, 08:06 AM   #7
XDragRacer
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If you have "dirty" gasoline in your carb float bowl, TNGWag, chances are it came from the fuel tank. Draining the fuel tank and adding fresh gasoline might be a good idea.

Here's a link to a wiring diagram, useful for anyone trouble-shooting your electrical system.:

http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-c...ng-diagram.gif

Checking your main fuse, I think, is a good first step. Better check it electrically (as, with an ohmmeter), because--sometimes, appearances are deceiving.
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:43 AM   #8
flyinfuzz
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If he had to wring out the filter the carb needs cleaning , ect . Might want to flush the engine with something as it has sucked in crap. Coil trying to die ?
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:30 PM   #9
TNGWag OP
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Update

Thanks, everyone, for ideas. Here is what my bike currently looks like:

Of note, one of the two fuses was blown (as was the spare). Unfortunately, I didn't remember which fuse went where (can anyone tell me if the spare is 10A or 20A). Replaced that, popped in the new battery and...nothing.

At that point, I decided to see if anything looked out of place, and I removed the gas tank. Foolishly, I didn't read instructions and ended up tearing off what I later found out to be the vacuum hose running off the carb.

I didn't really have time to do anything else because of impending nightfall.

Further ideas, suggestions, or, and most of all, in-person help (I'm in Knoxville near campus) would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:46 PM   #10
AJay112
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Take a breath... stuff a rag in the intake. Clean everything up, clean / dry and oil the filter, dump the tank, replace the fuses, change the oil and filter, then go look for the electrical short. It is possible that you blew the fuse from cranking over on a hot starter.

It will be fine, you will get it running.
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Old 03-05-2014, 04:53 PM   #11
ChromeSux
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Man from the size and description of those mud holes, you must have went to Royal blue or Wind rock. If you did go there, it only takes 1 time on any 650 to realize that was a mistake. BTDT. A DRZ400 is a big as i want in those places, still a pig.
I will PM you my number, i may be able to help, if not i know some Ktown KLR guys too.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:30 PM   #12
NONAME13
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Check the solenoid there not very expensive


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Old 03-05-2014, 09:54 PM   #13
Beezer
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obviously the fuel is a problem, but I would take apart every connector in the main harness, clean the pins & re-connect. I have seen dirty connectors stop more than one KLR (other bikes too). just taking them apart & squirting with wd40 is often enough

the main fuse is a 20A, on the white wire

the other fuse is a 10A from the factory, but it is too small. the Gen I switches from hi to low... 2 elements that aren't supposed to be on at the same time, but sometimes they are during switching. install a 15 or 20A. that would be the holder on the brown wire (the other side is blue & white).

fyi, there is another fuse for the fan, it;s up by the coolant tank. it is wired to the battery & not on the key

diagram:
http://www.buttonhome.org/gallery2/m...geViewsIndex=1
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:11 AM   #14
XDragRacer
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Fundamentally, you must have + 12 VDC on WHITE at all times; + 12 VDC on BROWN when the key is ON.

The two fuses connected under the seat are the 20-amp main fuse, and the 10-amp (stock, should be changed to 15-20 amp, as Beezer recommends) headlight fuse.

Don't fully understand the comment, the "spare" fuse was also blown. Not likely, unless someone placed a blown fuse in the spare fuse holder.

The wiring diagram and a multimeter are your friends, at moments like these. While your electrics are important, a Generation 1 can be bump-started and run without battery voltage (ignition key must be ON, kill switch in RUN position, removing ground from alternator exciter coil voltage lead to CDI).
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:25 AM   #15
canoeguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
removing ground from alternator exciter coil voltage lead to CDI).
So this part is a bit over my head. Is there a pic somewhere? Are you saying remove the ground wire from the alternator? I have a gen one and feel like I should know how to bump start it. I am ignorant on this, but I won't be for long.
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