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Old 04-06-2012, 02:36 PM   #181
Dr_Bean OP
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Oddometer: 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
So I've installed the kit today:)

I'm not very good at soldering - ...
Don't worry, that will stay there. There is no force whatsoever on these wires.

for next time: Don't be afraid to keep your soldering iron there for 10 seconds, trying to heat through everything completely.
The PCB and components have no problme with the temperature; just the insulation material of the wire may start to melt a bit more.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:51 PM   #182
gunnr
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Just wanted to post up that I got the Dr_Bean kit in. Didn't have any problems. Bike fired right up after I turned on the gas. I'd recommend it.

Thanks
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:06 AM   #183
TA-Zappa
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Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Another one who have install DR_Bean's kit and it works great so far. Has put around 200km with the pump installed (mostly highway) and have not noticed any difference from the original.

Simple to install (even if soldering was required), clear instructions and everything needed was in the kit.

Cheers,
Zappa
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:44 AM   #184
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Just an update, I have now put close to or more then 6000km on the pump. 99% of the time it has been on tarmac and alot inte heavy rain. Working like a charm.

Thank you DrBean for your brilliant solution.

Cheers,
Zappa
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'09 250 EXC-F SixDays - 184h (Stolen)
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:37 AM   #185
Dr_Bean OP
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thanks.

I can tell you: I have 1 person that actually did over 100'000km AFTER replacing the original breakers with my kit (@ about 30k), and still running.
(but I don't give that in warranty )

quite some kits sold, also in US; apparently everyone is happy because I rarely hear anything ever after selling the kit.

one remark maybe: Please be sure to have a "functional" pump and bike before you do the conversion. If the original pump has a shorted diode (blowing the fuse of the bike) or a frozen pump-rod (no movement on de pump-rod possible) then installing my kit will not help solve the problem (because the problem is not in the contact breakers).

guys feel free to post you positive and negative(if any) remarks here, (or to me directly)
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:38 PM   #186
GrenDesb
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Location: Québec
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My stock pump started to give me trouble few weeks before my trip to Labrador.

Gerben (Dr. Bean) told me two weeks delivery from Netherland to Canada.

I was scared it would arrive too late for my trip but I finnally got it 4-5 days after he shipped it.

Nice kit, install is a breeze, took only 1 hour and some.

Few days later I leaved for Labrador, 6500km later I'm here and highly recommend this kit.

Good product, good service.
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Old 08-17-2012, 03:45 PM   #187
ktm950se
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I installed the kit, which was easy to do, and it functions perfectly.

I even have a spare kit as a back-up, but its extremely likely I'll never need to use it.

ktm950se
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:29 PM   #188
erappaport
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What's the best way to get a kit in the US? Should I PM the doctor directly, or is someone vending them on this side of the pond?

Just replaced my stock pump (still going at 24K miles) with a Facet 40171, but was thinking I'd rebuild the Mitz for a spare..
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:37 PM   #189
Stumpalump
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Part of the reason auto ignition points have a condenser is to stop the points from pitting. I wonder if one of those condensers would stop the pitting problem on these pumps?
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:14 AM   #190
Dr_Bean OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpalump View Post
Part of the reason auto ignition points have a condenser is to stop the points from pitting. I wonder if one of those condensers would stop the pitting problem on these pumps?
The answer is: maybe a bit, but not really.

The problem is: There is energy stored in the coil of the pump. You have to get rid of that. options for this:
- You can store it in a capacitor, but then you still have to get rid of it. it will get it back when the contact breaker closes again and create another spark. or you drain it in a resistor (snubber network): but that will get very hot...
- you mount a reverse diode: The stored energy want to create a reversed current ('drianing the coil'). But a diode doesn't really drain the energy... that is ok, because the losses in the coil will in the end absorb the enegry. this solution is already there: The adventure pump has an internal diode (where the AfricaTwin doesn't). My kit does have similar (better) diode.

HOWEVER the main reason the contact breakers fail is NOT just the spark: The contact breakers simple cannot handle the number of switches...
simple calculation learns this:
-at 50km/h average, the contact breakers open and close about 3x per second.
- hence about 10'000 times per hour
- after 50k (that is 1000 hours of driving) you are at 10'000'000 switches.

now try to find a mechanical switch that can switch 8Amp inductive load, for 10^7 times.... and the answer is: IF you find it, it is more expensive then the whole pump.

the electronic version of such switch costs about 2 euros and does even 1000x more switches without problems. But you need some electronics around it, on a PCB etcetc.

Dr_Bean screwed with this post 08-18-2012 at 01:20 AM
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:17 AM   #191
Dr_Bean OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erappaport View Post
What's the best way to get a kit in the US? Should I PM the doctor directly, or is someone vending them on this side of the pond?
to UPDATE:

to get a kit: just send me a PM here on the forum please.

KIT (everything you need) = 40 euro + 2 euro shipping (to anywhere). please use your own currency translator.

- I make them myself, as hobby, so in the time I have spare. As long as the numbers are reasonable I can supply them (it has always been a few samples a month).
- When finished, I send them in order of payments received. Up till now I mostly had them in stock.
- there are also some local people from e.g. the dutch forum who want it...
- The costs are really the cost of the materials: print, parts, coating, testing, shipping, improvements and occasional loss when that happends (no hours laber, I just don't want to run in the minus from it).
- I do accept every type of payment, but a bank-transfer from the US simply costs YOU 50 $ or more...: that doesn't matter for me . Therefor pay-pal is basically the only way to do it reasonably. also by far the easiest, although they also want a % of it.... If you really want one and don't have paypal: Please arrange something with a friend or forum-pal please.

Dr_Bean screwed with this post 08-18-2012 at 01:35 AM
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:01 PM   #192
erappaport
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Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2012, 05:21 PM   #193
Gustavo.Ramos
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:02 AM   #194
gouralnik
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Part numbers / sources

I will most likely install Dr Beans kit in the near future. I was thinking since I will have the pump out it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter / screen filter. I read on the HOW but there were no references to any part numbers. What are the part number(s) and potential suppliers. Thank you.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:40 AM   #195
Dr_Bean OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gouralnik View Post
I will most likely install Dr Beans kit in the near future. I was thinking since I will have the pump out it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter / screen filter. I read on the HOW but there were no references to any part numbers. What are the part number(s) and potential suppliers. Thank you.
original 950 does not have a fuel filter. You can place an aftermarket filter in between pump and carburator.

The pump has not problems with that. I would NOT advise to put it between gas-tap and pump: that is likely to cause gas-bubbles in the line.
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