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Old 03-06-2014, 03:09 PM   #286
corsa996
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Moe Australia
Oddometer: 30
Dr Bean's Kit Down Under

G'day, Gerben.
Payment sent.

Thank you.
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:23 PM   #287
KarimADV
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Joined: Jan 2013
Oddometer: 52
Hallo Dr_Bean!

Kit recieved in Italy in 4 days: this week end we fitting the kit to my friend's SE pump :)

Thanks for being so awesome!
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:12 PM   #288
Vyxenn
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Joined: Dec 2011
Oddometer: 3
Thank ya DrBean, got the package, will install and test it as soon as it's not freezing with -50Cel here

ok... I'm not laughin'...




Seriously I mean...

That's today



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Old 03-24-2014, 06:48 PM   #289
buzzardair
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Joined: Mar 2004
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 266
I want one for my 950. PM sent.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:22 AM   #290
desbela
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Joined: Mar 2014
Location: Italy
Oddometer: 4
Wink

@DrBean I send you PM
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:38 AM   #291
Dr_Bean OP
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: The Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desbela View Post
@DrBean I send you PM
don't have to post that you send a PM... no added value there.
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Old 04-06-2014, 05:19 AM   #292
corsa996
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Moe Australia
Oddometer: 30
Dr. Bean kit fitted

Spent the last few hours fitting the kit into my 2005 950Adv. Everything fitted up well, and bike runs stronger than ever!!

Thanks Gerben.
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:41 AM   #293
Bowber
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Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria, UK
Oddometer: 84
Fitted mine today, quick to do the actual swap, bit of a pain taking the pump off in the first place though.
Just got back from a 100 mile test run and all working great.
My 950 has done 13132 miles (I saw the mileage while I was checking the conversion was working) and my original points weren't too bad, definitely warn but worth keeping as spares for long trips.

I'm in the UK and delivery was quick, less than a week.
So overall a good service and good conversion.

Thanks
Steve
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:08 AM   #294
Dr_Bean OP
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Oddometer: 96
great, thanks!

I traveled quite a lot myself (on a Honda-XR first actually, later on the 950s..) and even though I have 100% faith in my kit, I would take the small contact breaker set from the pump with me as a spare: So small and light and a good backup. If you have seen how the kit is installed, you know that it is quite easy to revert if needed. preferably with a solder iron, but even doable without in emergency.

That is why I advise people to swap the breaker-points before they are really done.
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:36 PM   #295
Dr_Bean OP
Dr_Bean
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Oddometer: 96
For all that have my kit and still need to mount it:

don't worry nothing wrong, just a caution remark:

The studs that are screwed into the pump only have a very small thread, and the metal of the pump is also very thin. Therefor it is essential that you mount the studs with a 1/4" screwdriver with socket 7 , only finger-tight, and make sure to apply some loctite on the threaded end of the stud before you mount it.

if you have issues with the studs: feel free to contact me. I am working on an improved solution to make it even better.
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #296
juames
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Ottawa
Oddometer: 2,298
Quiet pump

Howdy folks, looking for a little advice...

I installed a Dr Bean kit a couple months back and it has been working well till now, but on a trip last weekend it gave me a bit of trouble. When I installed the kit the pump made the usual quick loud knocking noise, now it doesn't make any noise at all. I took the pump off the bike and tried it by itself and it made a very quiet slow sound. Is this the sign of the actual pump dieing?

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Old 05-13-2014, 11:25 PM   #297
Dr_Bean OP
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Oddometer: 96
Quote:
Originally Posted by juames View Post
Howdy folks, looking for a little advice...

I installed a Dr Bean kit a couple months back and it has been working well till now, but on a trip last weekend it gave me a bit of trouble. When I installed the kit the pump made the usual quick loud knocking noise, now it doesn't make any noise at all. I took the pump off the bike and tried it by itself and it made a very quiet slow sound. Is this the sign of the actual pump dieing?

Hi,

There are a few options for the pump to die...
- contact breakers (fixed with my kit)
- internal diode: I cannt fix that, but ones my kit is installed that will not happen because my kit has a much better diode taking over the internal.
- pump-rod seizing: this only happends when the pump is very corroded. all-winter riders sometimes experience this, but not very often.
- 'external causes': Meaning it is actually not the pump that is dead.. but the connector, FUSE (replace to check), powersupply, pump-relais etc.: This could very well be your case!

My kit behaves like this:
- If the pump works normal, it activates the pump whenever it becomes empty (rod inwards)
- it always activates the pump (when teh power to the pump is on) after ~2 seconds no activitiy. This is a safety. If the optical detection fails due to mud/dust it will pump, but 1 full stroke every 2 seconds... that is enough to go 50km/h and get you home or safe.
- if the pump cannot get rid of its fuel: each 2 seonds it wil activate anyway, but you won't hear much because it is not pumping.
- if the pump does not GET any fuel (tank-to pump clogged): it MAY start switching full speed... this is an option for you problem: Check to fuelline to the pump: can fuel run out freely?
- if the pump is shorted, or gets stuck in the ON position, it will draw so much current that the kit will blow out the fuse in the fusebox. the kit can easily handle that current.


If your pump makes a fast, quiet humbling sound (10x per second or more), it looks like the pump is empty and gets activated but the pump-rod does not move. therefor it runs as fast as it can. It is either empty because it does not get any fuel, or the rod is really stuck, it probably will not give you any fuel. (I have seen the latter, but VERY rarely)

more likely is that the kit activated the empty pump, and the power ON the pump drops because you have a 'high ohmic' connection to the pump. If you measure with a voltage meter you get 12V, but if you draw current the voltage collapses. Below ~5 volt the kit resets and tries again: this gives a very fast vibration (quiet buzz). It sounds like this is your problem.


--> Check the connector and wireing to the pump.
--> remove the pump from the connector: connect a headlight bulb to the pump-connector on the bike side: If you switch ON the ignition(+killswitch) the lightbulb should burn for about 5 seconds and go off again (switched off by the ECU of teh bike because the engine is not running).

The bad connection could be inside, where you soldered the wires to the PCB: If above tests failed: remove the black lid from teh pump again, and inspect. Feel free to send me some pictures (please drop a PM for e-mail address) and I'll try to help you out with it.

IF the kit has failed... you will get a new one; but you would be the first to fail a kit in operation.

Carefull: Do NOT experiment with the pump connected to a separate battery or powersupply (without fuse..): it it likely to reverse connect the pump/kit like this and both WILL die on that (so does the original pump!). I do not give any warranty on that. Always connect the pump to the original bike connector, so you cannot go wrong, and the pump will not run for more than 5 seconds if the engine does not run.

feel free to contact me by PM.
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:14 AM   #298
juames
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Ottawa
Oddometer: 2,298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Bean View Post
Hi,

There are a few options for the pump to die...
- contact breakers (fixed with my kit)
- internal diode: I cannt fix that, but ones my kit is installed that will not happen because my kit has a much better diode taking over the internal.
- pump-rod seizing: this only happends when the pump is very corroded. all-winter riders sometimes experience this, but not very often.
I am able to move pump shaft by hand, so it is not seized

- 'external causes': Meaning it is actually not the pump that is dead.. but the connector, FUSE (replace to check), powersupply, pump-relais etc.: This could very well be your case!
Replaced the fuse and check power supply and all is in spec

My kit behaves like this:
- If the pump works normal, it activates the pump whenever it becomes empty (rod inwards)
- it always activates the pump (when teh power to the pump is on) after ~2 seconds no activitiy. This is a safety. If the optical detection fails due to mud/dust it will pump, but 1 full stroke every 2 seconds... that is enough to go 50km/h and get you home or safe.
- if the pump cannot get rid of its fuel: each 2 seonds it wil activate anyway, but you won't hear much because it is not pumping.
- if the pump does not GET any fuel (tank-to pump clogged): it MAY start switching full speed... this is an option for you problem: Check to fuelline to the pump: can fuel run out freely?
Yes fuel flows freely.
- if the pump is shorted, or gets stuck in the ON position, it will draw so much current that the kit will blow out the fuse in the fusebox. the kit can easily handle that current.
No blow fuse


If your pump makes a fast, quiet humbling sound (10x per second or more), it looks like the pump is empty and gets activated but the pump-rod does not move. therefor it runs as fast as it can. It is either empty because it does not get any fuel, or the rod is really stuck, it probably will not give you any fuel. (I have seen the latter, but VERY rarely)

more likely is that the kit activated the empty pump, and the power ON the pump drops because you have a 'high ohmic' connection to the pump. If you measure with a voltage meter you get 12V, but if you draw current the voltage collapses. Below ~5 volt the kit resets and tries again: this gives a very fast vibration (quiet buzz). It sounds like this is your problem.
Checked and voltage does not drop. The pump makes a very quiet slow pumping noise when empty.


--> Check the connector and wireing to the pump.
All connections are still intact and firm
--> remove the pump from the connector: connect a headlight bulb to the pump-connector on the bike side: If you switch ON the ignition(+killswitch) the lightbulb should burn for about 5 seconds and go off again (switched off by the ECU of teh bike because the engine is not running).
Power stays on for 5 seconds and then goes off as normal

The bad connection could be inside, where you soldered the wires to the PCB: If above tests failed: remove the black lid from teh pump again, and inspect. Feel free to send me some pictures (please drop a PM for e-mail address) and I'll try to help you out with it.
Check soldered connections and they all seem firn and solid

IF the kit has failed... you will get a new one; but you would be the first to fail a kit in operation.

Carefull: Do NOT experiment with the pump connected to a separate battery or powersupply (without fuse..): it it likely to reverse connect the pump/kit like this and both WILL die on that (so does the original pump!). I do not give any warranty on that. Always connect the pump to the original bike connector, so you cannot go wrong, and the pump will not run for more than 5 seconds if the engine does not run.

feel free to contact me by PM.
I have purchased a new OEM pump and will replace the DR Bean fitted kit and see what the results are. Not sure what else to check.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:21 AM   #299
Dr_Bean OP
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Oddometer: 96
did the PCB look clean?

did you look at the pump pumping when the black lid was off?

you say: slow quite pumpping? But it doesn't give any fuel? What is slow?
normal running rate in the bike a 1 to 3 x per second, no more. Empty pump about 8-10x per second. And it shouldn't make a lto of noise...

Please drop me a picture of the PCB (front and back) if you can on: fuelpump at lc8 nl (add some dots etc)

if you want I can send you another pcb to test. no problem.

I am also not sure here.. I cannot understand the behaviour of the kit here: the behavior you describe is not really possible... lol.

so.. trying to learn from this case, independend of whats is the actual cause.
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Old 05-18-2014, 08:55 AM   #300
Monkey Butt
Rusty
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Melbourne Mordialloc
Oddometer: 73
Hi Dr Bean,

Finally got around to fitting your kit, my KTM mechanic fitted it to my 950SE as I am mechanically useless. Well wasn't he impressed with the workmanship and is seriously thinking about ordering a few kits to keep as spares for his KTM Adventure customers.

Thanks again mate, took the bike out tonight for a quick burn and is running like a dream.

Cheers Russ
Melbourne "OZ"
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