The CRF250L Owners thread

[Lost Rider]

Originally Posted by kiwi5

Took this photo of our new CRF while breaking it in out on the back roads near Raglan, New Zealand....great fun. I'm heading back up this way this weekend to see if it still has the stalling issue. Forecast is going to be perfect sun (again)

I've almost got the photo upload technique sorted, just need to figure how to make the photos larger....

Beautiful!


Yesterday while removing the radiator to take in for repairs I poked around a little and it seems like there's a set screw on the throttle body you could adjust to bring the idle up a bit if you keep having the bike stall. Maybe that would help and something to consider it if still happens after the first service.

[TNC]

Originally Posted by itrack

Ok, so I'm going forward with this project. I ordered every seal and bushing I could find for these forks. I am bolting on 43mm KYB forks off a 1995 CR250. I ordered Racetech Type 1 Gold Valves FMGV 2530, AB Fork Bushing Kit 38-6014, MSR Forks Seals and Wipers 56-137, Racetech Springs FRSP 395150, 215.VM2.K5 fluid 54oz, Motion Pro Damper Rod Tool, and a Motion Pro Fork Seal Driver.

I know there are some guys that know way more than me about rebuilding forks, so anything I missed? Any instructional youtube vids or write ups on the KYB 43mm? This will be my first fork rebuild.

I did the Race Tech Gold Valve kit on my '06 KLX KYB 43mm fork, so the procedure will very close or identical. You'll receive an excellent video with your kit that will have Paul Thede of RT walking you through the steps. There are also very good pics and text in paper instructions that come with the kit. I also did the MSR fork seals, those red ones, and by all accounts those are made by All Balls bearing and seal outfit. I didn't get those red fork seals or my rear shock main seals to last more than a month. I didn't have a leak with my original KYB seals before the revalve on both ends of my bike. There are no irregularities or damage to my fork legs/stanchions or the rear shock shaft. I went back with actual KYB fork and shock seals and haven't had an issue. I've seen other similar reports of some issues with those red All Balls seals, so be aware. Maybe there has been an improvement since then, but IMO the OEM KYB seals are pretty darned reliable.

[Krono]

Originally Posted by trainman

You guys are really going to a lot of work to improve your new Honda's, I never thought that when I purchased mine that I would go through the bike like some of you have. I guess I've never been that much on performance and if I wanted more I just purchased a bike that had it already, that is I just rode what the factory produced, other then some farkles for comfort or convenience. I debated for two months on rather to buy the CRF250L or the WR250R and the $2300.00 difference never came into play. I knew that the WR would blow the Honda away in just about every pace you could put it through, but I still went with the Honda as this was the type of bike I wanted at this time. I guess what I really don't understand is why the little Honda, when you could buy a nice used DRZ400 and blow this bike away for even less money, I know, I have owned three of them in the past. So guys, what is it about the LRP that makes you do what you do?

John

Of course, I might as well buy a KTM for performance, weight and so on.

... but I would not have had anything to mod on it

I like to tinker, and it is also part of the fun, isnt it ?


Beside this, im an Honda fan , and already have a collection of them : lawn mover, generator, shredder, trimmer. I only miss a chain saw, but they dont make it ...

L

[bungie4]

Originally Posted by trainman

So guys, what is it about the LRP that makes you do what you do?

Because it's not all about power.

[DirtyBlackIrish]

Originally Posted by Lost Rider

Beautiful!


Yesterday while removing the radiator to take in for repairs I poked around a little and it seems like there's a set screw on the throttle body you could adjust to bring the idle up a bit if you keep having the bike stall. Maybe that would help and something to consider it if still happens after the first service.

Crazy how bent that is! It didn't think it looked that bad when you showed the photos after the spill. At least it can take a bit without being compromised.

[goondock]

Originally Posted by trainman

You guys are really going to a lot of work to improve your new Honda's, I never thought that when I purchased mine that I would go through the bike like some of you have. I guess I've never been that much on performance and if I wanted more I just purchased a bike that had it already, that is I just rode what the factory produced, other then some farkles for comfort or convenience. I debated for two months on rather to buy the CRF250L or the WR250R and the $2300.00 difference never came into play. I knew that the WR would blow the Honda away in just about every pace you could put it through, but I still went with the Honda as this was the type of bike I wanted at this time. I guess what I really don't understand is why the little Honda, when you could buy a nice used DRZ400 and blow this bike away for even less money, I know, I have owned three of them in the past. So guys, what is it about the LRP that makes you do what you do?

John

It is a hobby, modifying that is, tinkering. I don't own anything stock that is just the way I like it.. Stock it boring to me, maybe not to other folks out there, but there is just something about slapping on some parts and feeling the difference in performance, handling, looks, function, feel... Basically like LEGOS for grownups. If I bought a WR or a used DRZ I would then put money into modifying them as well. For me the Hondas price point was spot on, cheap and left some money in the pocket for me to play around with. my 2¢

[topping]

For anyone using the Symtec heated grips and Highway Dirybikes topclamps and want a water proof rocker switch cover i found a uk ebay seller selling the same switch with a waterproof cover. I have ordered one and swapped the cover on to my Symtec switch and it works great.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2607088296...84.m1497.l2649

I will post some photos soon of the CRFL when the sun comes out.

[TNC]

Originally Posted by trainman

You guys are really going to a lot of work to improve your new Honda's, I never thought that when I purchased mine that I would go through the bike like some of you have. I guess I've never been that much on performance and if I wanted more I just purchased a bike that had it already, that is I just rode what the factory produced, other then some farkles for comfort or convenience. I debated for two months on rather to buy the CRF250L or the WR250R and the $2300.00 difference never came into play. I knew that the WR would blow the Honda away in just about every pace you could put it through, but I still went with the Honda as this was the type of bike I wanted at this time. I guess what I really don't understand is why the little Honda, when you could buy a nice used DRZ400 and blow this bike away for even less money, I know, I have owned three of them in the past. So guys, what is it about the LRP that makes you do what you do?

John

What bikes like the CRF250L, WR250R, and KLX250S bring to the table over a KTM and similar bikes is anvil-like reliability and long term durability. KTM's are damn fine bikes, and in the vein of other competition bikes that can be street legal, they rank among the best. But, the bikes I mention here are more overbuilt...yes, slightly heavier as a result...and not as stressed as racing-platform bikes you might compare them too. Lower starting price, both new and used, is also a factor for many riders. I bought a used '06 KLX250S in '09 and incrementally modded the suspension with a revalve...something guys even do with 10K priced bikes. I've also added a 300cc kit and a pumper carb...yes, even some brand new race bike owners add displacement and FI programmers and pipes to the latest high end bikes. I haven't even scratched the surface of the entry price of a basic competition KTM that could be street legal...and still have a very competent bike that is superior on the pavement to most all of those competition level bikes...and is able to cover the same ground and rough, off road conditions with more than adequate competency, albeit not as fast or quite as easily.

I'm not looking at things through rose colored glasses. I raced enduros for decades and know the edge you get with a real competition bike in rough off road conditions. If you're racing, you need a race level bike. Otherwise, riding a decently modded, more modern DS bike of certain models allow great trips out west in the mountains and deserts with almost guaranteed reliability and durability over many years with most service concerns involving oil changes, the occasional valve clearance check, and replacing worn tires.

[Ed@Ford]

EEKAMOUSE was looking for torques for the triple clamp pinch bolts. I loosened up mine in the process of taking dimensions for some tie down tabs to the forks. HOLY CRAP....one was massively tight...WAAAAY over 24 lb-ft, the other was barely snug...same for all the other pinch bolts. Combine that with the massively tight rear sprocket bolt nuts tells me our Thai friends on the Honda assembly line don't do much torque wrench calibrating. Also makes me think of the CRF owner who felt that the front end was real squirrelly at 70 mph. I can say from experience on my XR400R loose triple clamps bolts will do this. SOOOO, my message is, check bolt torques, add lock-tite if appropriate on every important bolt (or fasteners on stuff you don't want falling off) on the bike.

[SAPB]

Just a bit off topic, the AFX-39 DS helmet (Fly makes the same but with D-rings) has a unique latching system that you can even latch/unlatch with gloves on, but no way to use the helmet lock with it. I'm just going to go to the hardware store and get one of those cables, with loops at either end, then leave it either in the lock, or tank bag when not in use. Yeah, in the middle of nowhere, just put it over a mirror, or just leave it on the ground/seat, but in town, at the market I usually take my favorite ride, LRP. On sale on MC superstore, now my Christmas gift card is toast.

[Ed@Ford]

Originally Posted by trainman

You guys are really going to a lot of work to improve your new Honda's, I never thought that when I purchased mine that I would go through the bike like some of you have. I guess I've never been that much on performance and if I wanted more I just purchased a bike that had it already, that is I just rode what the factory produced, other then some farkles for comfort or convenience. I debated for two months on rather to buy the CRF250L or the WR250R and the $2300.00 difference never came into play. I knew that the WR would blow the Honda away in just about every pace you could put it through, but I still went with the Honda as this was the type of bike I wanted at this time. I guess what I really don't understand is why the little Honda, when you could buy a nice used DRZ400 and blow this bike away for even less money, I know, I have owned three of them in the past. So guys, what is it about the LRP that makes you do what you do?

John

Reason why I sold my DRZ400S was the crap gear ratio selection of the transmission. Stock it was a great streetbike, but 1st gear was WAAAAY to high for anything off road. Put on the offroad gearing...1 less tooth on the c/s spkt, about 5 more on the rear sprocket, it would climb anything...but SCREAMED on the road at 55 mph. Powerwise, the DR was very decent though...but not as torquey as my XR400R, was a WIMP compared to my XR bored to 440! (And no frikkin radiator to bend like Linda's). BUT, I don't ride like that anymore...and have just taken delivery of a CRF....as it fit me better and is $$$$$$ cheaper than my riding buddie's WR250R.

[Ed@Ford]

Originally Posted by DirtyBlackIrish

Crazy how bent that is! It didn't think it looked that bad when you showed the photos after the spill. At least it can take a bit without being compromised.

That Radiator is 100% repairable..my $350 DRZ radiator looked worse than that...go to Myler's, www dot motorcycleradiators dot com or he can make a REAL stout one for reasonable price

[SAPB]

So guys, what is it about the LRP that makes you do what you do?

Had a lot of Honda product over the years, had bikes before I had a car. Used ones mostly, and beat the snot out of em, with nary a problem. Then at some point, I just went more, and more cc, then back to reality with the LRP. Also, worked on, and ridden lots of bike over the years, as many have said, you notice yourself smiling a lot, knowing only you know, because nobody can see behind the helmet.

[Ed@Ford]

Originally Posted by goondock

It is a hobby, modifying that is, tinkering. I don't own anything stock that is just the way I like it.. Stock it boring to me, maybe not to other folks out there, but there is just something about slapping on some parts and feeling the difference in performance, handling, looks, function, feel... Basically like LEGOS for grownups. If I bought a WR or a used DRZ I would then put money into modifying them as well. For me the Hondas price point was spot on, cheap and left some money in the pocket for me to play around with. my 2¢

Yes Goondock...the tinkering is great fun, but the real PITA is when the UPS truck comes with goodies for the bike....and the wife asks "what did you buy now?" BUT, she at least knows that if I'm in the garage with the bike, I'm not in the bar with a floozie!

[DirtyBlackIrish]

Originally Posted by Ed@Ford

That Radiator is 100% repairable..my $350 DRZ radiator looked worse than that...go to Myler's, www dot motorcycleradiators dot com or he can make a REAL stout one for reasonable price

I just think that is awesome how it can bend that much. The one thing I noticed right off the get go was the lack of protection on the radiator. I'm new to motorcycling in general and was kinda surprised it didn't have protection. Then I looked at other bikes and they were much the same. It certainly gives me more confidence in that area. I am gonna wait until some more info comes out on which radiator protection has been tested best and go that route I think.

Do you think those ones @ motorcycle radiators will do without protection? I am certainly not an aggressive rider anyway. But i do want to "harden" any soft spots just for insurances. I already ripped off one rear turn signal on a tree going through some tighter single track in the mud. So I ordered something to remove the long turn signals and bring them into the taillight. We'll see how that works.