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Old 01-19-2013, 10:03 PM   #2356
Fytclub
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Installed the Q4, next up EJK and powerbomb

I ordered my muffler and pipe and other stuff when I bought my bike. I put about 150 miles on it totally stock just to get a feel for it. It was ok, but I could feel just how restricted it was. My Q4 came in this week so I decided to put it on.I was very surprised by the difference just the Q4 made. More power and more responsiveness. Went on a 100 mile ride today high into the Colorado mountains and the bike performed very well. Bottom, middle, top, all was improved. On the highway, 65mph was very easy as was merging and passing.

Even with the new Q4, I can still feel the bike wants to give more but can't and it feels like it's in the fuel delivery. I cannot wait until the EJK comes in to really wake this bike up.

I was very on the fence when I bought this. Stock it was fun, but I just wanted more power. Thank God for EJK and FMF for throwing their tech into this bike early on.
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Old 01-19-2013, 10:32 PM   #2357
itrack
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Knocked out a few mods today. Fixed the brake line later on but this is the only shot I snapped. I added trials tires front and rear, 13t sprocket, airbox mods, ejk, polisport led tail light, and removed the tool box. Kinda looks like a KTM Freeride tail.


itrack screwed with this post 01-19-2013 at 11:36 PM
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:17 AM   #2358
siyeh
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More info on the trials tires please? Pics?
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:22 AM   #2359
'Flagger
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Location: Columbus, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
Does any company make a handlebar for the 250L that comes predrilled for the switchgear or are the only options to still grind off the knobs on the switchgear housings or drill holes to match them in the new bars?
Don't know of any pre-drilled aftermarket bars ... the combinations they'd have to deal with would be problematic. Grinding off the knobs/pins is not that difficult with a dremel-style grinder. Put enough heat into the metal pins and the surrounding plastic will soften, allowing you to pull the pins. If that doesn't work, just grind 'em down flat.

To keep the controls from rotating on the new bars, just cut up an old tube and put that between the control and bar. When installed, the controls won't move easily and they should rotate a little when crashing in the dirt to absorb some energy.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:29 AM   #2360
DirtyBlackIrish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEKAMOUSE View Post
Stretches out the cockpit nicely height is great helps with stand up trail riding so much. Turn signals do not work as running lights. Btw those are the cycra front triple clamp mounts.
NICE!!!! That is what I want more than anything. I noticed that right away standing up the first time I was offroad. It was very much an awkward position to be in. Yeah I thought those were the ones as they looked different than the Zeta ones. Did you have to do and bending or anything else on the protectors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EEKAMOUSE View Post
I should prob add that the bolts you need to attach the cycra triple tree front mounts are M8 1.25 55mm I picked some up at my local dealer he had them laying around. The cycra mounts don't come with longer bolts to attach them.
Perfect! I had thought about that as well. I figured they would either have no bolts or several sets of different sizes.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:38 AM   #2361
dangerdawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
Above photo was taken while out playing on the back roads south of Raglan, New Zealand. Bike is now at 650kms on the clock and certainly has a bit more power. We will be adding the bashplate and FMF exhaust this week. Only negatives: can't stand the strange metal bars blocking off the fuel tank opening- why the heck are they there? To stop large objects falling in? Also, the chain adjustment marks, I'm used to having hash marks on both upper and lower, don't like the dot underneath. Doesn't feel very precise. Finally, I can still get the bike to stall (every time) when slowing down. Doesn't do it when riding aggressively, only when I get lazy and pull the clutch in while downshifting to a stop. The stalling has yet to show itself when hammering along the back roads so that is a positive. If I keep blipping the throttle as I down shift it doesn't happen. Still a great bike though!
Those bars are there to keep you from damaging the electric fuel pump (located in the fuel tank) with the gasoline filler nozzle.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:41 AM   #2362
tilliejacques
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
Only negatives: can't stand the strange metal bars blocking off the fuel tank opening- why the heck are they there? To stop large objects falling in?
kiwi5, from what I understand with my CBR250R, the fuel pump is in the tank so the bars are to prevent the fuel nozzle from damaging the pump.

To be more on topic with this thread, here's my 250L on El Camino Real (oldest road in the US) just before the 14" of snow closed the forest roads around here.

Somebody had run over the sign so we propped it back up but the top part (with the El Camino Real signage) was gone.

And here are my two favorites together.


From my 230L, soon for sale , DH has refit the bar risers, handguards, and folding shift lever. The rack doesn't fit as the bolt fittings on the 230L aren't even like they are on the 250L and, while the skidplate can be adjusted to fit, it won't protect the water pump outlet well enough for my uh typical "bike naps". But now I get to shop for a skidplate, rad guard, and rack, so thanks to all who've posted their purchases here so I can see pics on bikes! And thanks to Rick Ramsey for the tips on smog can removal (will be done as soon as we can get a service manual, currently backordered) and nasty little kickstand sensor, which has bit me in the past on the 230L!

cheers
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:43 AM   #2363
tilliejacques
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerdawg View Post
Those bars are there to keep you from damaging the electric fuel pump (located in the fuel tank) with the gasoline filler nozzle.
shoot, dangerdawg, finally something that I know and could contribute to this thread and you beat me to it! Ah well, I don't ride very fast either...

cheers
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:43 AM   #2364
DirtyBlackIrish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEKAMOUSE View Post
Another tip if you run front and rear led turn signals you will need a resistor to make them work I recommend the ones wheeling supply sells.
DRC sells a module that plugs in if you're using LED's it looks like. Maybe I'll give them a shout on my days off this week and post results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CR250R View Post
Hi guys I've been lurking this page/site for a long time now but decided to finally sign up. I just picked up my 250L last week and really like it so far but I will def be modding it as money comes in. I actually have a question about the Easton bars, just got them in the mail in the "woods bend" and was wondering if any cables/wires will need to be extended or re-routed? Thanks.
Welcome to the forum! EEKAMOUSE is the first to post pics of the bars installed that I can recall. I think a number of people bought these bars to include myself. I think his is the setup to try and mimic thus far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
Above photo was taken while out playing on the back roads south of Raglan, New Zealand. Bike is now at 650kms on the clock and certainly has a bit more power. We will be adding the bashplate and FMF exhaust this week. Only negatives: can't stand the strange metal bars blocking off the fuel tank opening- why the heck are they there? To stop large objects falling in? Also, the chain adjustment marks, I'm used to having hash marks on both upper and lower, don't like the dot underneath. Doesn't feel very precise. Finally, I can still get the bike to stall (every time) when slowing down. Doesn't do it when riding aggressively, only when I get lazy and pull the clutch in while downshifting to a stop. The stalling has yet to show itself when hammering along the back roads so that is a positive. If I keep blipping the throttle as I down shift it doesn't happen. Still a great bike though!
Nice pics. Speculation thus so far is that they were put in the tank to protect the expensive electric fuel tank that sticks up into the tank at least half way. Seemed to be the most reasonable answer I have heard. If you look at the parts blow up on the Honda website of the tank it clearly shows it.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:49 AM   #2365
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEKAMOUSE View Post
Another tip if you run front and rear led turn signals you will need a resistor to make them work I recommend the ones wheeling supply sells.

Or use an LED flasher unit, no soldering required.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...FWrZQgodaykA1Q
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:53 AM   #2366
DirtyBlackIrish
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LED IC Relay to Use Existing Wiring

Here is the link to the relay for the LED's I was talking about. I am guessing this would also reduce the amount of electricity consumed for anyone sporting heated gear. Every watt is gonna count I would think. Don't have any experience with these, just found it while researching taillights.


http://www.drcproducts.com/elect/d45-69/index.html
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:55 AM   #2367
DirtyBlackIrish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Or use an LED flasher unit, no soldering required.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...FWrZQgodaykA1Q
BAMM!! That looks even better, plug and play.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:06 AM   #2368
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LOL, nice to know were on the same page though.

I use one just like I posted on my Husa to accommodate the HDB integrated LED signals, I haven't used it on the LRP but it should work just the same.




I dropped off the twisted radiator at OK Radiator in Oxnard, CA Friday Morning, picked it up that afternoon and $40 later we have a much straighter radiator. Though after the fix the mount points for the fan didn't quite line up, nothing a couple zip-ties can't fix.

Looks like a Flatland Rad guard is in order, I doubt the repaired radiator will take the same abuse again without causing leaks.








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Old 01-20-2013, 08:14 AM   #2369
DirtyBlackIrish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
LOL, nice to know were on the same page though.

I use one just like I posted on my Husa to accommodate the HDB integrated LED signals, I haven't used it on the LRP but it should work just the same.




I dropped off the twisted radiator at OK Radiator in Oxnard, CA Friday Morning, picked it up that afternoon and $40 later we have a much straighter radiator. Though after the fix the mount points for the fan didn't quite line up, nothing a couple zip-ties can't fix.

Looks like a Flatland Rad guard is in order, I doubt the repaired radiator will take the same abuse again without causing leaks.








Crazy how they bent it back. Is that epoxy or something down in the corner? You surely saved some money on that one.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:18 AM   #2370
EEKAMOUSE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyBlackIrish View Post
NICE!!!! That is what I want more than anything. I noticed that right away standing up the first time I was offroad. It was very much an awkward position to be in. Yeah I thought those were the ones as they looked different than the Zeta ones. Did you have to do and bending or anything else on the protectors?



Perfect! I had thought about that as well. I figured they would either have no bolts or several sets of different sizes.
Had to bend the zeta guards slightly in retrospect just cranking down the bolts prob would have pulled everything into position either way it was very easy
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