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Old 01-22-2013, 02:53 PM   #2461
Krono
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I guess I didn't realize this......if I ever read about it, I had forgotten!

So you just unbolt the slipper and flip it over with the beveled end now on top and facing the rear?
I dont remember ... but just unbolt it and you'll figure out

L
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:55 PM   #2462
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I guess I didn't realize this......if I ever read about it, I had forgotten!

So you just unbolt the slipper and flip it over with the beveled end now on top and facing the rear?
No, if you turn the chain guide slipper upside down, it will wear very quickly. I think Krono rotated the chain guide slipper 180 degrees, so it did not extend so far from the rear of the chain guide. I imagine a larger rear sprocket will rub the extended rear of the chain guide slipper, unless you rotate it.

Given the way I ride, I would just remove the chain guide slipper entirely. However, I don't jump my bikes, et cetera. A very aggressive rider should keep the chain guide slipper; otherwise, he risks derailing the drive chain.

Spud
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Spud Rider screwed with this post 01-22-2013 at 03:50 PM
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:19 PM   #2463
roundtripping
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Looks like things are moving along over at Scott's...

http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabiliz...L&BI_ID=243800
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:54 PM   #2464
Spud Rider
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I didn't see any grease zerks on the parts diagrams for the CRF250L. Did I miss them?

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Old 01-22-2013, 04:19 PM   #2465
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I didn't see any grease zerks on the parts diagrams for the CRF250L. Did I miss them?

Spud
No, you didn't miss them..Honda's been missing them for a long time..my 1996 XR400R had none, and what a frikkin mess there when the swing arm pivot bolt siezed onto the inner bushings that the roller bearings ride on. Took 40 hrs plus a new swing arm to fix

a set of instructions to add them would be a wonderful thing .....I've got a set of instructions to do my KLR....before spring
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:34 PM   #2466
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All this talk about sprocket swapping prompts me to share a bad experience. I have had numerous hondas that have the same spline arrangement for attaching the countershaft sprocket to the output shaft. Cheap sprockets have VERY poorly made internal splines that are very prone to wobble around on that shaft....and promptly destroying the spline on the output shaft....the fix involves $$$ parts, splitting the cases, and lots of labor. Do yourself a favor....only use Renthal or factory Honda countershaft sprockets...might cost $10 extra...but cheap insurance. I think it was mentioned that Honda XR250R, maybe XR400, or XR600R probably fit the CRF spline...I think...but am not 100% sure that these bikes have different tooth count sprockets available in the Honda parts books. I have all sizes from 12 to 16 for my XR400R (Renthal brand)...but haven't gotten to test fit one on my new CRF.

ALSO...my ride buddy has a WR250R Yamaha and had some really UGLY wear on his C/S sprocket...took the tips of the teeth right off. Turns out the stock sprocket has a big rubber step on either side of the sprocket to reduce chain noise....well, the chain side plates hit that rubber, and keep the chain from setteling into the channels between the teeth and causes bad sprocket wear. I believe the CRF has similar rubber moulded onto the C/S sprocket. Cut it off or just get a different sprocket (without that rubber)...even if you plan to keep the 14T stock sprocket
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:49 PM   #2467
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Stock shock Mods

There are folks that are spending BIG bucks on rear shocks for the CRF. Certainly many of those folks ride hard enough to be able to feel the improvement and appreciate it. I'm older, and my old ass can appreciate selected improvements, but my wallet appreciates a good price.. Example in point is my 2009 KLR650...a bike with a supposedly "non-rebuildable" shock, that had waaaay too much rebound damping. To aggravate that, us normal mechanics couldn't even remove the KLR spring (fortunately the CRF springs appears to be removable, with a real threaded preload adjuster). I was able to get the KLR shock modified for a little over $100....and the difference is frikkin' amazing. The high buck suspension shops don't like to piddle with these sorts of low $ jobs. Has anyone looked at the CRF manual and the shock to see if MAYBE the shock is rebuildable/revalveable...or has taken it to a reliable shock shop for modification? The guy who did my KLR shock was SLOOOOOW....so I have no plans to go back to him...and I have no clue what mods the CRF shock needs anyway.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:08 PM   #2468
Bob80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
There are folks that are spending BIG bucks on rear shocks for the CRF. Certainly many of those folks ride hard enough to be able to feel the improvement and appreciate it. I'm older, and my old ass can appreciate selected improvements, but my wallet appreciates a good price.. Example in point is my 2009 KLR650...a bike with a supposedly "non-rebuildable" shock, that had waaaay too much rebound damping. To aggravate that, us normal mechanics couldn't even remove the KLR spring (fortunately the CRF springs appears to be removable, with a real threaded preload adjuster). I was able to get the KLR shock modified for a little over $100....and the difference is frikkin' amazing. The high buck suspension shops don't like to piddle with these sorts of low $ jobs. Has anyone looked at the CRF manual and the shock to see if MAYBE the shock is rebuildable/revalveable...or has taken it to a reliable shock shop for modification? The guy who did my KLR shock was SLOOOOOW....so I have no plans to go back to him...and I have no clue what mods the CRF shock needs anyway.
just looking at the shock section in the manual now...pretty much NO info. on any rebuild-able procedures, other than inspect damper rod, damper unit and bushing...and upper and lower torque specs, of course.....and a 1/3 page of Shock Absorber Disposal...that pretty much sums er up
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:08 PM   #2469
Ed@Ford
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Radiator protector

Those who have thoughts about radiator protectors that are ROBUST, drop over to www dot rickramsey dot net....and scroll around and find his pictures on installing a VERY nice one...it's got some transverse stiffeners that give it some crush strength
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:12 PM   #2470
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob80 View Post
just looking at the shock section in the manual now...pretty much NO info. on any rebuild-able procedures, other than inspect damper rod, damper unit and bushing...and upper and lower torque specs, of course.....and a 1/3 page of Shock Absorber Disposal...that pretty much sums er up
Yup...just like the KLR manual...."non rebuildable"...period

Maybe I'll go out on a limb, ask anyone who has replaced their stock shock to sell it to me, then take it to a new local shop I just found, to have him experiment on it............

Any takers????????????
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:14 PM   #2471
EEKAMOUSE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Another factor to consider is possible interference with the chain guide and/or chain guard when using 45T, or larger sprockets. Also, the larger sprockets might cause accelerated wear of the chain guide slipper, part #9 in the following diagram.



Spud
Lol I have a 48 on mine part # 9 is cheap and easy to replace its worth the smile it puts on my face!
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:17 PM   #2472
soupbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clfarren5944 View Post
Does anyone know if the shifter shaft diameter and spline spacing is common on Honda dirt bikes? If it is, then we would have a large selection of replacements for the LRP. I have no other Hondas in my garage to be able to compare.
Thanks, Chris
I put a 1989 xr 250 (stock) folding shifter on mine. with a little bending . so splines fit perfect. pm your e-mail & I will send pics.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:53 PM   #2473
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
All this talk about sprocket swapping prompts me to share a bad experience. I have had numerous hondas that have the same spline arrangement for attaching the countershaft sprocket to the output shaft. Cheap sprockets have VERY poorly made internal splines that are very prone to wobble around on that shaft....and promptly destroying the spline on the output shaft....the fix involves $$$ parts, splitting the cases, and lots of labor. Do yourself a favor....only use Renthal or factory Honda countershaft sprockets...might cost $10 extra...but cheap insurance. I think it was mentioned that Honda XR250R, maybe XR400, or XR600R probably fit the CRF spline...I think...but am not 100% sure that these bikes have different tooth count sprockets available in the Honda parts books. I have all sizes from 12 to 16 for my XR400R (Renthal brand)...but haven't gotten to test fit one on my new CRF.

ALSO...my ride buddy has a WR250R Yamaha and had some really UGLY wear on his C/S sprocket...took the tips of the teeth right off. Turns out the stock sprocket has a big rubber step on either side of the sprocket to reduce chain noise....well, the chain side plates hit that rubber, and keep the chain from setteling into the channels between the teeth and causes bad sprocket wear. I believe the CRF has similar rubber moulded onto the C/S sprocket. Cut it off or just get a different sprocket (without that rubber)...even if you plan to keep the 14T stock sprocket
The Honda XR650L is notorious for stripped countershaft splines. This problem arises when a dirt/dual sport bike with a torquey engine, but no cush drive on the rear hub, is ridden frequently on pavement. For the Honda XR650L there are two solutions to this problem.

1) Install a rear wheel with a cush hub from Rad Engineering
2) Install a wider, XR650R C/S sprocket

I have had good success using the second option for the last 30,000 miles riding my XR650L.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/867...650r-sprocket/

Honda didn't put a cush drive on the rear wheel of the CRF250L. Presumably, Honda made this decision because the bike doesn't produce enough torque to create a problem. Only time will tell whether or not Honda was correct. Until the verdict is in, I suggest all CRF250L owners should inspect the countershaft splines for wear. If you see even a hint of rust on either the C/S sprocket or the countershaft itself, it's time to take corrective actions.

In this instance, I'm betting Honda was right, and the problem won't arise with the CRF250L. I also think aftermarket sprockets will work just fine for the CRF250L; however, only time will tell.

Spud
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:09 PM   #2474
Gilerd
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Wink 26 miles on the Odo and far less degrees temp

Why do I insist on buying bikes in Dec, Jan, Feb!!? I had to buy this wonderful CRF about 1.5 weeks ago, about the exact time the winter went from the warmest ever here in Virginia, to normal. Coworkers and fellow riders are pissed I picked up a bike after being bike free for several months cuz they know I changed the weather! Amazing! I'm still psyched about this awesome bike. Way heavier than the husky 510 I just sold, but somehow feels lighter in the handling. I just dont get it. What a great well balanced bike. I look forward to some metal bark busters, engine guards, smash plate, carry rack, and some of those boot handlebar thingys. I cant figure out what those are called, so they are hard to find. I will find a way to ride in to work in this weather!
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:17 PM   #2475
lrgart
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Hippo hands

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilerd View Post
Why do I insist on buying bikes in Dec, Jan, Feb!!? I had to buy this wonderful CRF about 1.5 weeks ago, about the exact time the winter went from the warmest ever here in Virginia, to normal. Coworkers and fellow riders are pissed I picked up a bike after being bike free for several months cuz they know I changed the weather! Amazing! I'm still psyched about this awesome bike. Way heavier than the husky 510 I just sold, but somehow feels lighter in the handling. I just dont get it. What a great well balanced bike. I look forward to some metal bark busters, engine guards, smash plate, carry rack, and some of those boot handlebar thingys. I cant figure out what those are called, so they are hard to find. I will find a way to ride in to work in this weather!

I have a pair of Hippo Hands on my '05 Bonnie, and it means that I can ride in the teens or rain with much less worry that I will get to my destination with all digits intact! Go to http://www.hippohands.com/ Quality is great and turn-around time was very quick.

Cheers,
Art
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