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Old 03-13-2013, 09:23 AM   #3781
BlueLghtning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NesquikNinja View Post
All I meant was how high I could rev it for everyday riding....sorry for the confusion and thank you for the input
Well technically, you can go till you hit the rev-limiter.

Getting up that high in the RPM range occasionally isn't going to hurt anything. Going miles down the road with the engine screaming or bouncing of the limiter isn't such a good thing.

Pick somewhere in the middle!
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:13 AM   #3782
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NesquikNinja View Post
All I meant was how high I could rev it for everyday riding....sorry for the confusion and thank you for the input
Here's a idea....find what RPM is peak torque and what RPM is peak horsepower....between those two the engine ought to run forever, because any engine manufacturer that has a brain will run wide open throttle durability going back and forth between these two points for HUNDREDS if not thousands of engine hours....I'd guess 7000 to 8500...THAT is really screaming it!
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:15 AM   #3783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
Maybe a stupid question; is the EJK tuner a unit that can be used multiple times (we have a 250L at work and I own one as well)? My theory is too buy one for the work bike and then borrow it to tune my own bike....
Hello kiwi5, to answer your question about the EJK tuner. Its a piggy back style fuel tuner so it would have to stay on the bike.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:36 AM   #3784
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1st Service

Threw the dealer a bone, and let them do the 1st service, $198.26. Dropped it of with 692 miles on it. 2.25 hours of labor, valves in spec. They called and asked why I had over 100 lbs. of air in the front tire, DOH. It's got TUbliss, didn't put the stickers on the rim, or for that matter no stickers at all. Stickers add more weight, right?

On the other shift point thing, it does "fall off of power being made", before it bounces of the rev limiter, so I've not bounced it as of yet. First bike I've had in a while without a tach. Maybe get one of the ones that wraps a wire on the spark plug lead.
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:11 PM   #3785
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Lamda Probe??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schrauberklaus View Post
Finaly , read all 255 Page , have a CRF too , now for about 3 Weeks .

In former Time i was reading about the CRF mainly depend its a nice cheap Spare part Source for my XR's here in Thailand .

The upper and lower Triple clamp is about 65 USD here in Thailand at the Honda Dealership .
It fits the 83 XL600R Frame and the USD Forks from the XR250/400 .
(In Asia XR's have USD Forks from 2004 on )

That goes in my XL if i am back home , but the Forks (with XR Breaks and Axle will fit the CRF to . XR Axle is 17 mm , so for the use in the CRF the Bearings must be change in the CRF Front Wheel .

But all my XR's (250/280/600/XL600 )Stand hat Home looked away as
i came to Ayutthaya a few weeks back .
And here i get informed that the Project will need a little longer .
Just 5 Month insteed of 5 weeks .

So without a ride and the terrible Taxi situation here i go to the
Honda dealer opposide the Hotel drop 129000 THB on the Table
(about 4350 USD) and ride a new CRF out of the Show room 35 Min later .

20 km later i know that bike runs much to lean and pull the Plug on the Lamda Probe , much better .

removing the Air Intake snorkel , to loud and lose low end .
Cutting the Inner part of the Snorkel of and put the outer Part back and it runs nice now .

I am Impessed , that LRP run better as i had expect .

Did 1000 km already , Seelevel up to 1100 m .
450 Km on the first Day . No Problems at all .
Seat is nice for me , Shock/Fork O.K.

Try to order the Stage 1 Kit from BDSB , 359 USD for Shipping with UPS.
That is with Tax and inport duty 1/3 of the price for the bike , no way .
Got enough XR Parts at Home , so furter Mods have to wait .

First thing will be to put the Horn button where it shut be .
Under the Indicator . That Thing drive me Nuts .

Manrack /Skidplate i can do in my Workshop .
Change the Taillight and Indicators to LED no Problem that Parts are cheap here . Muffler , i try first a few from my XR'S .

@MCrosser
Where is API in Bangkok ?
I see Website before but can not find the location . GPS ??

Here is a Link to a Shop in Bangkok , they make 70 Differnt Decal Sets for the CRF .
Very interesting- when I had a TTR250 I cut back the snorkel in the airbox and it ran much better (and without any re-jetting), so I will try cutting back the internal snorkel. What is the Lamda Probe? What does it do? I want to see how many mods I can do without having to dump big money on a EJK fuel tuner......
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Old 03-13-2013, 01:43 PM   #3786
Ed@Ford
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Spare fuel tank

http://www.kolpinpowersports.com/fue...-brackets.html

I had one of the above 1.5 gallon fuel tanks on my thirsty Husky TE610. Re- adapted it and the mount for my CRF ManRack. The Kolpin design is similar to the rotopax tanks, (actually predates them) but I do not know if the hold-down bracket works with both. If I had to do it over again, it would be easier to mount it on the flatland racing rack plate that has the 4 vertical bolts that pierce the fender and go directly into the rear subframe.

Also, long term I would prefer to mount Kolpin or rotopax fuel tanks vertically on a side case rack...if for nothing other than keeping the fuel weight lower. But this has got to get me by for this year.

If anyone knows if the Kolpin hold-down-mechanism IS compatible with the rotopax, please advise, as I would like to use one of their tool/emergency packs sandwiched under the fuel tank to carry tools, spare tubes, etc

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Old 03-13-2013, 01:51 PM   #3787
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
http://www.kolpinpowersports.com/fue...-brackets.html

I had one of the above 1.5 gallon fuel tanks on my thirsty Husky TE610. Re- adapted it and the mount for my CRF ManRack. The Kolpin design is similar to the rotopax tanks, (actually predates them) but I do not know if the hold-down bracket works with both. If I had to do it over again, it would be easier to mount it on the flatland racing rack plate that has the 4 vertical bolts that pierce the fender and go directly into the rear subframe.

Also, long term I would prefer to mount Kolpin or rotopax tanks vertically on a side case rack...if for nothing other than keeping the fuel weight lower. But this has got to get me by for this year.
I have had neither Klopin/Rotopax, but in researching, the K is thinner, so less weight, but less durable. Be curious if the tanks were interchangeable with the mounting.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:03 PM   #3788
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Regarding speed in gears, I doctored nick ramsey's table but for standard gearing so I knew how much it was revving during the break in period.



Hope that helps

Rocket

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Old 03-13-2013, 02:10 PM   #3789
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Here's a idea....find what RPM is peak torque and what RPM is peak horsepower....between those two the engine ought to run forever, because any engine manufacturer that has a brain will run wide open throttle durability going back and forth between these two points for HUNDREDS if not thousands of engine hours....I'd guess 7000 to 8500...THAT is really screaming it!
Taking it sorta easy, like the owner's manual says (break in), who's to say if that's the "right" way. It will cruise on flat terrain at 40, 6th gear, but, less than that you feel the "thumper effect" through the bars. You can scream it, probably trashing the mpg, but WTF, even screaming, probably gets great mpg. Off road, in 2nd, and 3rd gear, not so good mpg, duh. Terrain way different where you live, most of us probably aren't really caring about mpg. Myself, just doing road to get to off road mostly, but errands around town, it's a no brainer, compared to a cage.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:18 PM   #3790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket123 View Post
Regarding speed in gears, I doctored nick ramsey's table but for standard gearing so I knew how much it was revving during the break in period.



Hope that helps

Rocket
Not having a tach yet, not sure where the power falls off, but it's telling you to shift up, anyway. Not having an opportunity yet to see where it falls off power in top gear, level terrain or otherwise. I mostly stick to non-interstates anyway, so it's not a big deal.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:37 PM   #3791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
I have had neither Klopin/Rotopax, but in researching, the K is thinner, so less weight, but less durable. Be curious if the tanks were interchangeable with the mounting.
The empty tanks can't be much different in weight for a given size, and most likely, the 6.5 #/gallon gasoline will predominate. I could weight what I have of course....and the cobby adaptation I've done is NOT light. Yes, I'm excited to know if the oblong hole are the same dimensions....if anyone knows the length and width of the part of the hold-down that goes thru the tank, that info would be nice to know, and compare to the kolpin I have.

And....1.5 gallons ought to be around 90 miles...VERY decent!!
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:40 PM   #3792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
http://www.kolpinpowersports.com/fue...-brackets.html

I had one of the above 1.5 gallon fuel tanks on my thirsty Husky TE610. Re- adapted it and the mount for my CRF ManRack. The Kolpin design is similar to the rotopax tanks, (actually predates them) but I do not know if the hold-down bracket works with both. If I had to do it over again, it would be easier to mount it on the flatland racing rack plate that has the 4 vertical bolts that pierce the fender and go directly into the rear subframe.

Also, long term I would prefer to mount Kolpin or rotopax fuel tanks vertically on a side case rack...if for nothing other than keeping the fuel weight lower. But this has got to get me by for this year.

If anyone knows if the Kolpin hold-down-mechanism IS compatible with the rotopax, please advise, as I would like to use one of their tool/emergency packs sandwiched under the fuel tank to carry tools, spare tubes, etc
I haven't verified this information myself. However, from previous research I concluded the Kolpin mount is exactly the same as the RotoPax mount. However, the late-model, Kolpin fuel containers leak fuel. The RotoPax containers don't leak.

If anyone is interested, I still have one, 2-gallon, RotoPax fuel container for sale. Since all my dual sport bikes have large, aftermarket fuel tanks, I don't need the RotoPax fuel container; it has never been used.

Spud
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:55 PM   #3793
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I haven't verified this information myself. However, from previous research I concluded the Kolpin mount is exactly the same as the RotoPax mount. However, the late-model, Kolpin fuel contains leak fuel. The RotoPax containers don't leak.

If anyone is interested, I still have one, 2-gallon, RotoPax fuel container for sale. Since all my dual sport bikes have large, aftermarket fuel tanks, I don't need the RotoPax fuel container; it has never been used.

Spud
Hmmmm....mine is a 2007 vintage Kolpin...BUT according to their tech support, my tank has a different cap than current....but they do list a cap that does NOT have a spout with it....wonder if it's the cap or the spout that leaks........?????
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:55 PM   #3794
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
The empty tanks can't be much different in weight for a given size, and most likely, the 6.5 #/gallon gasoline will predominate. I could weight what I have of course....and the cobby adaptation I've done is NOT light. Yes, I'm excited to know if the oblong hole are the same dimensions....if anyone knows the length and width of the part of the hold-down that goes thru the tank, that info would be nice to know, and compare to the kolpin I have.

And....1.5 gallons ought to be around 90 miles...VERY decent!!
The mounting hole in my Kolpin, 2-gallon fuel container has the following dimensions.

Length: 4-inches
Width: 1-3/16 inches
Depth: 2-1/2 inches

Spud
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:58 PM   #3795
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Hmmmm....mine is a 2007 vintage Kolpin...BUT according to their tech support, my tank has a different cap than current....but they do list a cap that does NOT have a spout with it....wonder if it's the cap or the spout that leaks........?????
If my memory serves me correctly, I believe the EPA forced Kolpin to change the design of the fuel caps, resulting in the leaks.

Spud
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