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Old 03-21-2013, 09:41 AM   #3946
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emreturkeli View Post
Can anyone please send me a picture of this friggin thing!!
I can't find it's location.. I have a relay from 12 oclock labs to change but no success today..

Thanks in advance...
It's part #12 on here: http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oempa...b/wire-harness
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:51 AM   #3947
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Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
Ok.. Maybe I'm stupid but where is this number 12 thing on the bike? under headlight? on the tail? underneath one of the side covers? How can I reach it?
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:04 AM   #3948
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emreturkeli View Post
Ok.. Maybe I'm stupid but where is this number 12 thing on the bike? under headlight? on the tail? underneath one of the side covers? How can I reach it?
Others have been there, I have not. According to the wiring diagram, there are 3 wires going to it, black/orange, green, and gray. Trying to remember if you have to take the tank off. Obviously, someone who's done it will be able to tell you exactly where it is.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:46 PM   #3949
gnath9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emreturkeli View Post
Ok.. Maybe I'm stupid but where is this number 12 thing on the bike? under headlight? on the tail? underneath one of the side covers? How can I reach it?
I believe it is behind the horn and over flow bottle. I have seen a post on this somewhere

I would remove your plastics from the right hand side as I don't think the guy had to remove the tank. Maybe lift it a little as I am sure it is tucked up out of the way.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:50 PM   #3950
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I just hand the entire front end of my wife's CRF250L apart and I don't remember seeing a turn signal relay under there. The connections to disconnect the turn signals are there, but I don't remember a relay, but I wasn't looking for it either. My guess would be on the right side by the overflow bottle.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:56 PM   #3951
emreturkeli
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I also dismantled the whole head today and it's not there... Will see the right side cover tomorrow! Thanks Guys!!
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:13 PM   #3952
kiwi5
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Clutch

So what other clutches will fit in the CRF250L? As others have pointed out, the CRF250L clutch may not be the best so would a CRF250R cluth fit?
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:00 PM   #3953
mcrosser
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To Answer KIWI5

The CRF250R is a completely differnt bike design to the CRF250L. The best bet is the CBR250R clutch, its a stronger clutch and it will fit. The added bonus is as there several race series for the CBR so theres plenty of aftermarket engine and transmission compoments that fit the CRF250L.

Hope this is useful info.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:14 PM   #3954
BigAHelm90
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fuel programmers

Hey guys so I finally picked up my first bike the cool little 250l. love it so far. I was planning on doing a couple of mods to just kinda make the bike mine. So far I did a fender eliminator kit to get rid of all that junk hanging of the back and I put on the fmf q4 slip on. I did no mods to the air box or the header. I haven't put a fuel programmer on is. So my question is has anyone one just put the slip on on with no programmer and did it run fine? And do you think my bike is running to lean or rich with just the slip on and no programmer. Sorry for all the questions but just one more. If I absolutely need a programmer are there any suggestions for a good one? I was more of a plug and play type. I don't want to have to hit a buch of buttons or anything. All feed back would be apreciated
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:21 PM   #3955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
So what other clutches will fit in the CRF250L? As others have pointed out, the CRF250L clutch may not be the best so would a CRF250R cluth fit?



I have an opinion on this....

If it isn't broke why try to fix it?

For the very few folks who are spending big bucks seriously modding their engine to produce much more HP than OEM, and are feeling slipping then sure, OK, I understand concern, par for the course taking the motor far beyond it's intended design, and probably why I wouldn't be doing every mod possible to squeeze every ounce of power of the non-race motor. Possibly making the LRP less reliable for our long distance ADVenture Riding, I hate hiking in MC boots. We all have different needs or passions when it comes to bikes so there's no right or wrong IMHO though.
For most folks, even those who do more common mods like just a Stage 1 kit or a fuel controller and/or exhaust why stress about it if there no proven issues? As far as I know we have the first CRF250L clutch replacement needed in our little community online, hardly a common issue yet.

We push our LRP on a weekly basis, beat on it even... I'm no master mechanic, we're spending more time riding instead of tinkering, but even with the Bazzaz fuel controller and power improvements I've never felt the clutch slip on big knarley hill climbs with the lever fully extended.
Our clutch failure was surely caused by operator error while a client was riding the bike, not because these clutches are weak IMHO.

Folks that want a slightly stronger engagement can replace the springs with stronger ones and get rid of the Judder Spring in the clutch assembly for not much cash or work. I have no experience as to if this will make a clutch last longer, just make the engagement stronger feeling or more abrupt.
With what I've done to ours it does feel slightly more definitive in engagement, but like I said I never felt the clutch slip either way with the lever released.

The EBC aftermarket pads part number is the same for CRF and CBR 250, so I'm not even sure how different the clutches actually are, but I'm no CBR expert, I just ride. ;)

See this thread for a little Judder Spring discussion, something I discovered accidentally after replacing the LRP clutch and Ed pointed out the correct term for the springs I removed and a little internet searching.
Or do your own google search on judder springs, lots of various points of views on many forums, while the racers like the mod methinks some riders might want to consider leaving it alone for a while, especially less experienced riders who can benefit from what the judder spring actually does.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=859691&page=3



http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/935...ch-engagement/


http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/864...judder-spring/
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:26 PM   #3956
mcrosser
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Hey guys so I finally picked up my first bike the cool little 250l. love it so far. I was planning on doing a couple of mods to just kinda make the bike mine. So far I did a fender eliminator kit to get rid of all that junk hanging of the back and I put on the fmf q4 slip on. I did no mods to the air box or the header. I haven't put a fuel programmer on is. So my question is has anyone one just put the slip on on with no programmer and did it run fine? And do you think my bike is running to lean or rich with just the slip on and no programmer. Sorry for all the questions but just one more. If I absolutely need a programmer are there any suggestions for a good one? I was more of a plug and play type. I don't want to have to hit a buch of buttons or anything. All feed back would be apreciated

Hi BigA
Any thing you do to the induction or exhaust will make the bike run leaner. As standard the bike will be at the best set up for economy and you can see that from the MPG they return.
You should be ok with the slip-on. for the best results as everyone has said on here you will need the header as well as the slip-on and fuel controller.
Only do the airbox mods, if you decide to do it once you have the fuel controller on the bike
Dont run it lean or your be in danager of damaging the valve seats and possibly the piston.
Depending on where you live there should be many options for the controller.

I hope this info helps you.

Steve
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:45 PM   #3957
BigAHelm90
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Hi BigA
Any thing you do to the induction or exhaust will make the bike run leaner. As standard the bike will be at the best set up for economy and you can see that from the MPG they return.
You should be ok with the slip-on. for the best results as everyone has said on here you will need the header as well as the slip-on and fuel controller.
Only do the airbox mods, if you decide to do it once you have the fuel controller on the bike
Dont run it lean or your be in danager of damaging the valve seats and possibly the piston.
Depending on where you live there should be many options for the controller.

I hope this info helps you.

Steve[/QUOTE]

Hey steve thanks alot for the info. So you think the. I should be fine with just a slip on and no programmer?
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:54 PM   #3958
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I had always figured that the ECU would adjust the fuel injection to compensate for the additional airflow, thereby preventing the lean condition that occurs in a carburated bike with similar mods.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:32 PM   #3959
gaw777
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Stallin

I have been away from the forum for awhile. Ride my bike mostly off-road and just this weekend the bike stalled on me, twice. Once on a single track while decelerating getting ready to go around a corner and another time while decelerating. Once I dumped it, it would not start for a few minutes. I know the bike was pretty hot when it stalled and when it would not re-start.
I do have the megabomb, Fuel programmer and q4 can. Has about 500 miles on it.
Any definitive answer on the stalling? Maybe re-adjusting the programmer for on the idle setting to keep more fuel flowing at the lower rpm?
Thanks
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:00 PM   #3960
mcrosser
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[QUOTE=BigAHelm90;21005725]Hi BigA
Any thing you do to the induction or exhaust will make the bike run leaner. As standard the bike will be at the best set up for economy and you can see that from the MPG they return.
You should be ok with the slip-on. for the best results as everyone has said on here you will need the header as well as the slip-on and fuel controller.
Only do the airbox mods, if you decide to do it once you have the fuel controller on the bike
Dont run it lean or your be in danager of damaging the valve seats and possibly the piston.
Depending on where you live there should be many options for the controller.

I hope this info helps you.

Steve
Hey steve thanks alot for the info. So you think the. I should be fine with just a slip on and no programmer?

Hi BigA....The basic map in the standard ECM should be able to compensate for the slip-on.
If you do any work on the induction side of the bike you will need a fuel controller to re-balance the fuel/air ratio which will increase the torque & BHP and prevent damage to the engine.

Steve
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