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Old 04-02-2013, 05:33 PM   #4156
kiwi5
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Question Trail Stand

Hey Team Lost! Awesome photos as per usual What are the dimensions of your trail stand? What is it made out of? Absolutely perfect tool for changing tires in the field, I've got a piece of wood to hold the rear tire up but have struggled with how to hold the front up. Looks like problem solved.....please send details!
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:43 PM   #4157
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
Hey Team Lost! Awesome photos as per usual What are the dimensions of your trail stand? What is it made out of? Absolutely perfect tool for changing tires in the field, I've got a piece of wood to hold the rear tire up but have struggled with how to hold the front up. Looks like problem solved.....please send details!


Thanks Kiwi!

The stand collapses down to about 10 inches, I believe is steel and is the perfect tool for the job, you can get one here:

http://www.endurostar.com

I do believe enduro star has a vendor thread offering ADV discounts if you can find it in the Vendors Forum.



While I'm at it, the other tool that's priceless for changing tires on the LRP or any bike very quickly is one of these:






http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...FeeDQgod9icATQ


Cheers





Go LRP!


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Old 04-02-2013, 06:01 PM   #4158
kiwi5
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Thanks for that, you know I always insert the valve stem first and then work the rest of the tube in so I've never had to use one of those tools- but having said that my technique is to break the bead on both sides so I can push the rim into the tire. Gives me more room to work the tube in. I'm assuming you only break the bead on one side when changing out the tube?
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:33 PM   #4159
Kevinsterner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainman View Post
Question, do any of you put a pad between the frame and the skid plate, say a strips of rubber on each frame rail.


John
I put some clear fuel line I split in half. It made the ricochet skid plate a little quieter
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:47 PM   #4160
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Roll charts

Need info on getting a roll chart. Anyone use them?
Which one should I get?

Little help please
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:14 PM   #4161
kiwi5
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More questions for Team Lost (sorry!) what sprocket combo are you running? The 13/40 combo on my bike get's me up to around 120kph max so I can pass slow traffic, but I have to use a bit of clutch slipping if I don't have proper momentum to get up steep hills when off road riding. Our work Crf has a 13/48 combo that is not at all fun for any road work but kicks ass on hills.... I may try 13/42......?
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Old 04-02-2013, 11:54 PM   #4162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
More questions for Team Lost (sorry!) what sprocket combo are you running? The 13/40 combo on my bike get's me up to around 120kph max so I can pass slow traffic, but I have to use a bit of clutch slipping if I don't have proper momentum to get up steep hills when off road riding. Our work Crf has a 13/48 combo that is not at all fun for any road work but kicks ass on hills.... I may try 13/42......?


We're running a 13t front with OEM rear, OEM chain.

Seems like a good compromise with having good road manners and is never a problem climbing any very steep hills at slow speeds without slipping the clutch. It just chugs right up for us, when it comes time to replace sprockets I will keep the same gearing for sure.





Quote:
Originally Posted by gaw777 View Post
Need info on getting a roll chart. Anyone use them?
Which one should I get?

Little help please

Do a google search for road book navigation, or road book navigation holder to find what you're looking for.

Or copy this code into google:

site:advrider.com, road book navigation holder

http://www.cycoactive.com/Store/2470/RoadBook-Holders


Going to ride the TAT or are you going to start racing on the LRP?
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:20 AM   #4163
topping
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Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Do you have enough clutch free play? In other words when you feel the cable on the lever going in the clutch housing is there a little slack? Even ours when it came brand new had very little slack until I loosened it.
Clutch freeplay is something that should be checked regularly since as a clutch wears more slack is needed.

Sorry to hear of your troubles, but do you happen to slip the clutch with the lever at high RMP's to get started though? That would be a sure way to make it wear out fast.

if you end up replacing the pads again, you could try the EBC pads, they should be available in the UK, part numbers are in the CRF250L Adventure thread. Personally I don't think there's anything wrong with the stock pads and plates for non-heavily modded bikes, only either incorrectly adjusted clutches or operator error. Of course the reason your first one wore out makes sense also.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=859691&page=3

Good luck!
Yeah i have made sure the free play is slack but i am indeed a new rider and use the clutch a little too much and have been pulling away in 2nd gear for hill climbs ect. I just hope the EBC places and heavy duty springs will make a difference because its starting to get expensive. i have ordered some heavy duty springs from CRG racing thailand. I just need to get the plates from a local dealer in the UK. The EBC ones seem to look like they are not the same as the crf250l ones because of the smaller plate at the bottom of the stack will this be a problem?

Cheers
Phil
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:20 AM   #4164
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Long distance bike set up

I'm not associated in any way with this, but this guy has been there, done that. This was posted on the minimalist thread, gotta love his shirt, "The only trouble with retirement is, you never get a day off"! Scroll down to video. I went through Scouting with my son, but my 20 mile hikes in a day are over. But, I can ride there.

http://www.bigdogadventures.com/
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:39 AM   #4165
BlueLghtning
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Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
I'm not associated in any way with this, but this guy has been there, done that. This was posted on the minimalist thread, gotta love his shirt, "The only trouble with retirement is, you never get a day off"! Scroll down to video. I went through Scouting with my son, but my 20 mile hikes in a day are over. But, I can ride there.

http://www.bigdogadventures.com/
Big Dog (Mark) is pretty well known around ADV and has been sharing his rides for years. He was one of the early ones to actually do the entire TAT and has done just about any well known ride out West plus many others.

It was actually a lot of his reports on why I decided to give up my Husky TE610 and go to the WR250R, and totally loving that bike.

The CRF is turning out to be a pretty decent bike too.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:31 AM   #4166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topping View Post
Yeah i have made sure the free play is slack but i am indeed a new rider and use the clutch a little too much and have been pulling away in 2nd gear for hill climbs ect.


I just hope the EBC places and heavy duty springs will make a difference because its starting to get expensive. i have ordered some heavy duty springs from CRG racing thailand. I just need to get the plates from a local dealer in the UK. The EBC ones seem to look like they are not the same as the crf250l ones because of the smaller plate at the bottom of the stack will this be a problem?

Cheers
Phil

Your first sentence is exactly how the clutch was worn out on our bike when the new dirt rider was trying to start in 2nd gear in sandy hills, it's a little motor with a little clutch and while I believe it's just fine for normal use it just won't stand up to get abused. It didn't take long to fail with high revving and slipping it. To start in second gear, especially on a hill you need to really rev the motor - that's why you're blowing clutches IMHO. I don't think stronger springs or different pads will stop the failing if you keep riding it like that. Learn the "friction zone" using two fingers, practice on a small incline, you don't need much throttle or RPM's to get the bike moving, your fingers should only be moving a tiny bit to control the "on/off switch" and the motor should never be winding out while getting started.
Think of the clutch as an on/off switch instead slipping it to get where you want, and start out in first gear.
A 13t front sprocket could help you too since the 14t makes 1st gear pretty tall.

You can do a search for Judder Springs, there's been discussions in this and the CRF Adventure thread all about it if you want to use EBC pads.
Also when you put it a new clutch, take it easy on it for a while, just like the initial break in, it has to wear in properly and you should change the oil after 600 miles too, the new pads contaminate the oil getting bedded in.

Good luck!
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:34 PM   #4167
topping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Your first sentence is exactly how the clutch was worn out on our bike when the new dirt rider was trying to start in 2nd gear in sandy hills, it's a little motor with a little clutch and while I believe it's just fine for normal use it just won't stand up to get abused. It didn't take long to fail with high revving and slipping it. To start in second gear, especially on a hill you need to really rev the motor - that's why you're blowing clutches IMHO. I don't think stronger springs or different pads will stop the failing if you keep riding it like that. Learn the "friction zone" using two fingers, practice on a small incline, you don't need much throttle or RPM's to get the bike moving, your fingers should only be moving a tiny bit to control the "on/off switch" and the motor should never be winding out while getting started.
Think of the clutch as an on/off switch instead slipping it to get where you want, and start out in first gear.
A 13t front sprocket could help you too since the 14t makes 1st gear pretty tall.

You can do a search for Judder Springs, there's been discussions in this and the CRF Adventure thread all about it if you want to use EBC pads.
Also when you put it a new clutch, take it easy on it for a while, just like the initial break in, it has to wear in properly and you should change the oil after 600 miles too, the new pads contaminate the oil getting bedded in.

Good luck!
Thanks for the tips, From what your saying my main problem is that i just went out and done some heavy riding right after i changed the clutch i didn't really let it wear in. Also i need to get better at clutch control and hopefully i can make a clutch last longer.
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:56 PM   #4168
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topping View Post
Thanks for the tips, From what your saying my main problem is that i just went out and done some heavy riding right after i changed the clutch i didn't really let it wear in. Also i need to get better at clutch control and hopefully i can make a clutch last longer.

Well, with internet diagnosis there's always variables, but from your own description and my experience with having the same thing happen on this specific bike I'd say yes. Wear in the new clutch gently, learn better clutch control and have a great time riding!
Under normal circumstances there's no reason a clutch shouldn't last tens of thousands of miles or 50,000, or more.

You don't need to rev the bike, just learn the friction zone, using two fingers. It's something you can do in front of your house, no throttle input needed to get moving once you learn how to feel the friction zone, at least on flat ground for practice purposes. Maybe loosen the clutch cable even more so the friction zone is closer to the bars, you should be able to hold on to the bars with two fingers/thumb and operate the clutch with your pointing and middle finger.
Think On/Off switch, small movements, friction zone.
Once you gain better control then you can learn when and how is the right way/time to slip the clutch in more technical riding, but high revving and slipping will inevitably lead to a burnt clutch. The goal is to develop muscle memory and not even think about clutch control, with seat time and practice it will come.


I bet if you search in the Perfect Line forum section you can find better clutch control instructions or find instructional DVD's, since this is the owners thread I'll leave my advice at that.

Good luck getting the LRP back in business and making the clutch last many (s)miles.
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:29 PM   #4169
topping
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Wicked Photos of my LRP

I am loving this bike so much all i need now is some decent tyres and clutch control





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Old 04-03-2013, 01:37 PM   #4170
topping
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Muddy!

And i had to post one with it dirty, Notice my Danish pastry waiting to be eaten on the seat

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