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Old 04-08-2013, 06:11 AM   #4231
SAPB
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Location: Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydpb View Post
I picked up the LRP on Saturday am and drove home (17 miles) to find a small oil leak on the brake pedal side of the engine. It is only a small leak but it is blowing down that side of the bike so looks bad.

I havent spoken to the dealer yet as they were closed yesterday, but I have marked where the leak is coming from on the attached photo - does anyone know what this protusion hides in the crankase - is it some sort of breather or pressure release?



Thanks in advance for any ideas - fantastic bike apart from this, so smooth and easy to ride.
Lloyd.
In looking at the cutaway view in the Helm manual, it appears to be the pressure relief valve. So maybe there was too much oil in there?
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C14 - CRF250L, always cleaned while it's raining

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SAPB screwed with this post 04-08-2013 at 06:28 AM
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:15 AM   #4232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turk View Post
Hey guys, need some info re the tail light wiring as I'll be fitting a universal DRC light/bracket. The DRC wiring is as follows

yellow - tail
red - brake
black - ground

I'm guessing that the green wire on the bike is ground as it also splits to the indicators, but what are the black & green/yellow wires for. I dont want to fry the light or any fuses.

Cheers
T
Green is ground. Green/Yellow is brake light.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:29 AM   #4233
lloydpb
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SAPB, and EmreTurkeli

Thanks, I will keep a close watch on it and report back,
Lloyd

lloydpb screwed with this post 04-08-2013 at 07:55 AM Reason: Another thank you!
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:06 AM   #4234
topping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normsthename View Post
Hi Phil
Thanks for the Info, which exhaust did you actually fit?
Fancy one that's not too loud

Andy
Hi Andy sorry for the late reply, I went for the FMF Q4 and megabomb header.

Cheers
Phil
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:11 AM   #4235
callison
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emreturkeli View Post
Exact same thing happened to a friend of mine, we took it to the service and they controlled and tightened all the screws, etc.. and said that if that's keep doing then we will go in more detailed.

But luckily it stopped!
Mine is doing the same thing, I'll snap a pic to illustrate later today. I plan on torquing the crank case bolts to spec this evening. Hopefully that sorts the issue out, if not I'll take it in to the dealer and let them dig into it.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:41 AM   #4236
Rocket123
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Unfortunately I managed to submerge my LRP save for the right handlebar in deep muddy water. After I had recovered the bike from the water (alone) I removed the side of the airbox and out gushed half gallon brown water. I removed the sodden airfilter and spark plug (which seemed dry) let the bike stand for a while and turned her over on the starter motor. The mud, ruts and water where too much and too far to push the bike to a main road so I kitted up started her on the second or third attempt and rode as gingerly as possible in 2nd for about a mile until to my relief I came to a metalled road.


The oil level glass looked like this!!




Fortunately I managed to freewheel down hill for a couple of miles to a main road and called for a recovery truck to get me home:










......anyway I drained the oil and removed the oil filter replaced with new two or three times just turning the engine over with the starter motor, but couldn't get rid of the white emulsioned oil. I mixed a 50/50 mix of oil and kerosene ran this through on the starter motor and this did the trick so I then added new oil/oil filter and started her up and idled for 10-15 minutes, drained down and was 98% clean. Carried out another refill and new filter took the LRP for a spin. It ran perfectly and the oil was clean in the glass window. I changed the oil/filter once more and this morning came to work. Still managed 75 mph, oil looks like new, small amount of water in the breather but other than that seemingly no damage!!


Lucky? Or just good Honda engineering?


I am sure the water came into the engine via the crankcase breather which is the lowest pipe from the airbox to the engine. I am wondering whether it might be possible to fit a one way valve.


Rocket
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:28 AM   #4237
EEKAMOUSE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjon View Post
[/IMG]recently purchased a 250l and had a great day on the trail. However dismounting from a hitch rack at home was its first fall (with me) and broke the lever clamp. I know I can just replace the clamp part but I would like to replace the levers with ASV or something (2-3 fingers). I do not know what I need specifically since Ive never looked at replacing one before. I got confused with all the selections such as with or with out hot starts???

Also I would need a mirror mount also and was thinking of folding ones. Any recommendations?

I would also like to get the beefy hand guards and would like to know if anyone here has a combination of all of these together and if they like or dislike the setup.

thanks in advance.
Righteous stunt metal clutch in IMO is best just get rid of the ignition cut out switch on the factory lever.

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Old 04-08-2013, 11:32 AM   #4238
Turk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
Green is ground. Green/Yellow is brake light.
Cheers fella, all wired up and fitted now
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:03 PM   #4239
RayMurdock
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Location: Netherlands
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi5 View Post
Highly recommend you do the basic snorkel & spark arrestor screen removal with you EJK - you will need the extra air to compliment the extra fuel the EJK will give the engine. I absolutely noticed a performance increase with the airbox mods. But then again, was I influenced by the extra noise?? I will call EJK and report back.
Thanks for the advice. The 'basic snorkel' removal is that the complete snorkel or only the part which is on the inside?
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:24 PM   #4240
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket123 View Post
Unfortunately I managed to submerge my LRP save for the right handlebar in deep muddy water. After I had recovered the bike from the water (alone) I removed the side of the airbox and out gushed half gallon brown water. I removed the sodden airfilter and spark plug (which seemed dry) let the bike stand for a while and turned her over on the starter motor. The mud, ruts and water where too much and too far to push the bike to a main road so I kitted up started her on the second or third attempt and rode as gingerly as possible in 2nd for about a mile until to my relief I came to a metalled road.


The oil level glass looked like this!!




Fortunately I managed to freewheel down hill for a couple of miles to a main road and called for a recovery truck to get me home:










......anyway I drained the oil and removed the oil filter replaced with new two or three times just turning the engine over with the starter motor, but couldn't get rid of the white emulsioned oil. I mixed a 50/50 mix of oil and kerosene ran this through on the starter motor and this did the trick so I then added new oil/oil filter and started her up and idled for 10-15 minutes, drained down and was 98% clean. Carried out another refill and new filter took the LRP for a spin. It ran perfectly and the oil was clean in the glass window. I changed the oil/filter once more and this morning came to work. Still managed 75 mph, oil looks like new, small amount of water in the breather but other than that seemingly no damage!!


Lucky? Or just good Honda engineering?


I am sure the water came into the engine via the crankcase breather which is the lowest pipe from the airbox to the engine. I am wondering whether it might be possible to fit a one way valve.


Rocket
If you didn't hit the kill switch, then the bank angle sensor killed it, preventing water getting sucked in. THAT would have been expen$ive.
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C14 - CRF250L, always cleaned while it's raining

CRF250L Service Manual http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owni...F250L13_OM.pdf
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:38 PM   #4241
kiwi5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayMurdock View Post
Thanks for the advice. The 'basic snorkel' removal is that the complete snorkel or only the part which is on the inside?
Try just removing the internal portion (with backfire screen removed as well). That should be plenty, you can try removing the snorkel completely but that only seems to add more noise without a noticeable increase in power.
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:11 PM   #4242
Rocket123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
If you didn't hit the kill switch, then the bank angle sensor killed it, preventing water getting sucked in. THAT would have been expen$ive.
I hit the kill switch as I'm sure the sensor didn't kill the engine. I've dropped the bike a few times and had the engine running whilst on its side so I'm not sure it works quite so instantly. If you don't switch the ignition off and back on after a fall the starter motor spins but no start.

Rocket
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:15 PM   #4243
SAPB
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Mods

I was thinking of getting the SpeedoDRD since I've done the 13t, and also, every tire swap is going to effect the mph. I checked on Ramz' site for info, and he has instructions on getting the evap. can off, but it's a blue link to get you there, I never saw this before. He's done modding to the stock exhaust, and quieted down the FMF here: http://rickramsey.net/CRF250Lcccmods.htm
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C14 - CRF250L, always cleaned while it's raining

CRF250L Service Manual http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owni...F250L13_OM.pdf

SAPB screwed with this post 04-08-2013 at 04:33 PM
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:18 PM   #4244
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket123 View Post
I hit the kill switch as I'm sure the sensor didn't kill the engine. I've dropped the bike a few times and had the engine running whilst on its side so I'm not sure it works quite so instantly. If you don't switch the ignition off and back on after a fall the starter motor spins but no start.

Rocket
Quick thinking! I've heard the stories of people who have sucked water into the cylinder, not quite as easy to compress as air/gas.
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CRF250L Service Manual http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owni...F250L13_OM.pdf
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:01 PM   #4245
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Originally Posted by callison View Post
Mine is doing the same thing, I'll snap a pic to illustrate later today. I plan on torquing the crank case bolts to spec this evening. Hopefully that sorts the issue out, if not I'll take it in to the dealer and let them dig into it.
Focus is rather shitty but you can see the dark area spreading out from the crank case gasket. Getting ready to go read up on the torque spec then clean things up.

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