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Old 05-03-2013, 03:15 AM   #4591
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turk View Post
Front sprocket change, any tips as I've never changed one before?

Does the chain need to be slackened first? Bike in gear? Any info appreciated ;)
I did the 13t, and also had never changed one. It was easier than expected. The torque figure for those 2 bolts is only 7 ft/lb, which is basically nothing, I didn't even use a torque wrench. I didn't need to loosen the chain, but you want the bike level, not on the side stand. I had 1,200 miles on mine, so the chain had more slack in it than when new, so you may have to loosen the chain.Those two bolts don't really hold the gear to the shaft the way you might think. There's a "fixing plate" that's bolted to the sprocket, and the gear can float a bit on the shaft. Difficult to explain, but when you get in there you'll see what has to be done. Make sure the stamped 13 is facing out. The fixing plate won't line up with the holes on the sprocket, but there's a cut out in the shaft, which allows the plate to move to the right position once it's in that groove. Way easier to do, than explain. With the rear wheel off the ground, getting the right amount of slack in the chain, will be too tight once it's back on the ground, I had to re-adjust it. You are going to love the way the bike is after the swap, good luck! Oh yeah, your speedo will read high after. Axle nut torque 65 ft/lb, adjustment lock nuts 20 ft/lb., page 69 in owner's manual.
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SAPB screwed with this post 05-03-2013 at 03:26 AM
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:45 AM   #4592
Auto-X Fil
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SABP covered it pretty well. If you need to loosen the chain, it's no big deal. You are going to have to adjust tension when you're done anyway, so you might as well loosen the rear axle nut and chain tensioner bolts first.


I am in charge of maintenance on three LRPs, and one has the 13/42 setup. The more I commute on my stock-geared bike, the more I realize the gearing is just silly tall. I need to at least put the 13 on mine, if not the 13/42.
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:46 AM   #4593
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Originally Posted by Auto-X Fil View Post
SABP covered it pretty well. If you need to loosen the chain, it's no big deal. You are going to have to adjust tension when you're done anyway, so you might as well loosen the rear axle nut and chain tensioner bolts first.


I am in charge of maintenance on three LRPs, and one has the 13/42 setup. The more I commute on my stock-geared bike, the more I realize the gearing is just silly tall. I need to at least put the 13 on mine, if not the 13/42.
I'm doing the 13/42 on my LRP. The front was easy. I had to take the rear to the LBS. My HF tools weren't tight enough and I was starting to round off the hex head bolts. The LBS had to torch a couple of the nuts too.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:02 AM   #4594
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Originally Posted by G19Tony View Post
I'm doing the 13/42 on my LRP. The front was easy. I had to take the rear to the LBS. My HF tools weren't tight enough and I was starting to round off the hex head bolts. The LBS had to torch a couple of the nuts too.
Maybe there was thread lock on there. They should put less of that on, and more grease on the bearings.
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:48 AM   #4595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turk View Post
Front sprocket change, any tips as I've never changed one before?

Does the chain need to be slackened first? Bike in gear? Any info appreciated ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MBDSUu-utk
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #4596
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There is no thread locking compund on the rear sprocket nuts. They are all-metal lock nuts, torqued very hard.

Always loosen the nut, not the bolt. You should break the nuts loose with an open-end wrench, not the hex key. They hex key is only to hold he bolt while you finish getting the nut off. Even a Snap-On hex in an impact driver would round off if you try to do it that way.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:10 AM   #4597
G19Tony
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Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
Maybe there was thread lock on there. They should put less of that on, and more grease on the bearings.
I did my swingarm and shock bearings yesterday. Easy peasy.

The swingarm bearings were dry! The shock bearings didn't have much.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:23 AM   #4598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auto-X Fil View Post
There is no thread locking compund on the rear sprocket nuts. They are all-metal lock nuts, torqued very hard.

Always loosen the nut, not the bolt. You should break the nuts loose with an open-end wrench, not the hex key. They hex key is only to hold he bolt while you finish getting the nut off. Even a Snap-On hex in an impact driver would round off if you try to do it that way.
Still on the fence about the 42 rear. I have a 17mm open end, but if I decide to go that route, I would get a 17mm box wrench, as a socket will not go in there. Probably break them loose before wheel removal like Krono did. Hey, where is Krono, he's disappeared.......
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:27 AM   #4599
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Originally Posted by Lapchik View Post
Is that a JT sproket? Looks like the other side should face out...........
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:34 AM   #4600
G19Tony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auto-X Fil View Post
There is no thread locking compund on the rear sprocket nuts. They are all-metal lock nuts, torqued very hard.

Always loosen the nut, not the bolt. You should break the nuts loose with an open-end wrench, not the hex key. They hex key is only to hold he bolt while you finish getting the nut off. Even a Snap-On hex in an impact driver would round off if you try to do it that way.
I do it the right way. My HF hex head sockets don't have tight enough tolerance in the bolt. When I felt the socket slipping, while reefing on the the wrench, I knew I needed professional help.

Sometimes you have to go where the proper tools are.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:05 PM   #4601
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Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
Still on the fence about the 42 rear. I have a 17mm open end, but if I decide to go that route, I would get a 17mm box wrench, as a socket will not go in there. Probably break them loose before wheel removal like Krono did. Hey, where is Krono, he's disappeared.......
Hey !

Still here, but in stealth mode
Thank's for remember me

Son rides the CRF, and I now have another bike ... quite similar in apparence




L
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:09 PM   #4602
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Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Hey !

Still here, but in stealth mode
Thank's for remember me

Son ride the CRF, and I now have another bike ... quite similar in apparence




L
Slow down, kids depend on you now....oops, this coming from someone who's gone way to fast almost all the time on whatever bike I'm on....That's quite the geological outcropping in the background, must have been fun to watch while it was still red hot!
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:14 PM   #4603
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Slow down, kids depend on you now....oops, this coming from someone who's gone way to fast almost all the time on whatever bike I'm on...

..
He he !





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Old 05-03-2013, 02:01 PM   #4604
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Hand guards held up

Glad I bought hand guards,probably saved some $ here.bent my rear brake lever around in a circle and scratched up the heat shield plastic and the stock muffler.not bad

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Old 05-03-2013, 04:12 PM   #4605
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Dipped or painted plastic?

Number plates/panels don't hold up very well..well to my abuse..they are dipped/painted plastic and show black underneath when scratched.




Gonna have to go easy on the plastic I guess. Lol. If my f's,r's and x were like this they wouldn't be so pretty. I hate painted plastic.

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