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Old 05-19-2013, 07:49 PM   #4816
G19Tony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siyeh View Post
Hey Tony, what size Kenda 761 did you put on front? They look good and priced right.
I think they were whatever the stock size is. I'll check for sure when I get home tomorrow.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:35 AM   #4817
SugarDust
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVBMR View Post
bikerzbits. They're in Thailand. Took me a while to find them, but it makes sense since the bikes are built there. If you place an order, be patient. Tracking may end in Bangkok, then stuff just appears at your door, or you may be able to track it to San Francisco and a week later it just shows up. I found the same to be true with Europe. Prices are pretty good.

http://www.bikerzbits.com/about-bikerzbits-store
thank you!
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:52 AM   #4818
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charleston View Post


Speaking of plastic parts, has anyone had their fairing melt behind the radiator fan? I was riding it pretty hard and the fan ran for quite a while but I never got any high temp warning. The fairing is now distorted.




Ours looks something like that, I thought it was from all the crashes when the plastics got tweaked. Maybe that fan does get it hot enough to warp the shrouds, looks like yours is pretty clean and undamaged so it's logical to think the heat did it. Maybe folks could add some heat shield insulation to prevent that warping if it becomes more common with something like this I've used on my Berg' to shield the tank from the header pipe.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006STT3QE/...SIN=B006STT3QE








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Old 05-20-2013, 09:54 AM   #4819
Buckshot77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Ours looks something like that, I thought it was from all the crashes when the plastics got tweaked. Maybe that fan does get it hot enough to warp the shrouds, looks like yours is pretty clean and undamaged so it's logical to think the heat did it. Maybe folks could add some heat shield insulation to prevent that warping if it becomes more common with something like this I've used on my Berg' to shield the tank from the header pipe.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006STT3QE/...SIN=B006STT3QE








I think I'll stick some reflective heat shield on the shroud to prevent it.
Gets so hot on the leg I've felt it and been surprised it hasn't distorted,now I know it will.

Cool, Nancy and I have the same rotopack
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:38 AM   #4820
Charleston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Ours looks something like that, I thought it was from all the crashes when the plastics got tweaked. Maybe that fan does get it hot enough to warp the shrouds, looks like yours is pretty clean and undamaged so it's logical to think the heat did it. Maybe folks could add some heat shield insulation to prevent that warping if it becomes more common with something like this I've used on my Berg' to shield the tank from the header pipe.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006STT3QE/...SIN=B006STT3QE








I think that the heat shield is a good idea. My left side fairing hasnít had a bad hit yet. I checked that the radiator hadnít bent back which could have buckled the fairing.

The right side has had a couple of whacks and the last hit tore the fairing panel at the lower fastener. I was able to plastic weld it from the back side by making a series of partial depth tack welds with the tip of a soldering iron and then adding some filler from a polyethylene milk jug. The polyethylene didnít mix all that well (but it worked) so maybe the fairing is not polyethylene. I then smoothed over the crack from the outside with the soldering iron and now itís hardly noticeable.

I also kept losing the 2 plastic blind fasteners from the right side fairing so I finally replaced the plastic pins with stainless hardware.
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:53 PM   #4821
Wargasm
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handle bars

Ok, odd request, I'm looking for a pair of stock CRF250L handle bars, they're going on my GSX1100. Tried them the other night and they were perfect on the big Suzuki, but alas the bike tipped over on the garage and tweaked the bars and now I really want another set. PM or email please, this thread grows afr too quickly to keep track of responses.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:28 PM   #4822
ryguy83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVBMR View Post
bikerzbits. They're in Thailand. Took me a while to find them, but it makes sense since the bikes are built there. If you place an order, be patient. Tracking may end in Bangkok, then stuff just appears at your door, or you may be able to track it to San Francisco and a week later it just shows up. I found the same to be true with Europe. Prices are pretty good.

http://www.bikerzbits.com/about-bikerzbits-store
I'm guessing by looking in the site,you could order the white plastics to make our u.s. model like the white oversreas models? Just wanted to make sure...if soo, that would be awesome.i really liked the look of that honda white on the new crf250ls

-ry
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:30 PM   #4823
Chris S
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Quote:
you could order the white plastics to make our u.s. model like the white oversreas models?
Correct. I bought mine in San Diego about 2 months ago (used) in all white and not a decal in sight.

Just converting back to OE red for selling.
May have white rad scoops, fender and silver seat to sell. PM me.

Ch
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:50 PM   #4824
Turk
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I fitted a pro taper CR high today...feels great so far. I had a small problem when fitting though, each control unit had a little piece of metal sticking out that sit in holes in the original bar, which obviously didnt work with the pro taper. A small hacksaw and 5 minutes later they were gone. A small strip of inner tube positioned in the unit keeps them in place.

How did others with aftermarket bars get around this? Drilling holes in the bars was the last thing I had in mind...

edit...ok I've had a little snoop & noted that some grinder the feckers off..and someone used self adhesive grippy thing....good luck to the next victim

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Old 05-20-2013, 07:30 PM   #4825
Harcomo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turk View Post
How did others with aftermarket bars get around this? Drilling holes in the bars was the last thing I had in mind...
I just replace my bars last week with a set of Renthals and I drilled the new bars for the throttle and the switchgear housings......no problems whatsoever.
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Old 05-20-2013, 11:02 PM   #4826
Turk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I just replace my bars last week with a set of Renthals and I drilled the new bars for the throttle and the switchgear housings......no problems whatsoever.
Other than ergonomics I bought the fat bars for their strength. I'm no scientist but I would have thought that drilling holes in them would comprimise the structure? It also limits switchgear positioning.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:42 AM   #4827
RayMurdock
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Question

I got stall problems coming down from higher speeds - close throttle, no rpms or sounds from the exhaust anymore and 2 out of 10 slowdowns ends hitting the starter button. Is there a method to increase the idle rpm?

( Open exhaust and dobeck EFI 2/2/4 - no airbox mods )
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:28 PM   #4828
kiwi5
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Try unclipping your O2 sensor, that stopped my stalling which was happening frequently ( after I installed the EJK tuner). Also, check out ThumperTalk forum, there is an excellent stalling thread that discusses several fixes.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:58 PM   #4829
kiwi5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayMurdock View Post
I got stall problems coming down from higher speeds - close throttle, no rpms or sounds from the exhaust anymore and 2 out of 10 slowdowns ends hitting the starter button. Is there a method to increase the idle rpm?

( Open exhaust and dobeck EFI 2/2/4 - no airbox mods )
Another comment: the team at EJK recommend removing the backfire screen on the air filter as well as pulling out the snorkel (after installing the tuner); can't hurt to try as you can always replace the snorkel and put in a new air filter.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:18 PM   #4830
RayMurdock
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Thanks for the advice - i'll try the o2 first and then continue onward to the airbox if needed
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