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Old 10-22-2012, 06:34 AM   #601
goondock
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Location: Plymouth Meeting PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEKAMOUSE View Post
Just got back from a fall foliage ride near Hamburg pa. The Game Commission opens the roads this time of year what a blast!
did you paint your rear fender and sides or is that a replacement? if so where did ya get the black?
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:13 AM   #602
EEKAMOUSE
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Originally Posted by goondock View Post
did you paint your rear fender and sides or is that a replacement? if so where did ya get the black?
Yes painted rear and sides and fork protectors couldn't handle all the white temporary fix untill New plastics are available!
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:22 AM   #603
13Moose-man
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Location: Central Maine
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Originally Posted by ramz View Post
I started my CRFL tuning page with the EJK install:
http://rickramsey.net/CRF250Ltuning.htm
Sweet! I'm just waiting for mine along with the fmf megabomb header and muffler.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:57 AM   #604
Old White Truck
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Location: Pacific Wonderland
Oddometer: 126
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Originally Posted by StupidDogCoffee View Post
So, about two weeks ago, I did a silly thing. I bought a brand new CRF250L...

Great report SDC! I enjoyed reading this and your restaurant parking lot story.

I hope you continue to keep us up-to-date on the progress with your CRF.

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Old 10-22-2012, 11:04 AM   #605
Secondcreekrider
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Marysville WA
Oddometer: 14
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Originally Posted by joec63 View Post
My experience also. When it's at the last bar I go ahead and fill up. Rather be safe than sorry.
Same here. I suspect the dealer just filled far enough to get the gauge to register full. Several miles off the lot the first bar on the guage disappeared. No issue with mileage from second tank on. Right around 70 mpg each fill up. Over 1500 miles now on the odometer. I fill up when the last bar starts flashing. At that point usually takes about 1.4 gallon to fill up.
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:04 AM   #606
Birdmove
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Location: Keaau, Hawaii
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Might I ask what you owners are paying for this motorcycle out the door? They will certainly be more where I live, and the only Honda dealer on the island is 125 miles away. I am thinking of this bike along with the Yamaha XT250 and TW200, and I see that Suzuki is making the DR200 again also.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:07 PM   #607
Wargasm
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Location: Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Oddometer: 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I'm not blessed with a whole lot of metric tools, so I'm gonna have to buy/borrow the correct ones for the front sprocket change. Can anyone tell me what size socket the axle nut takes and also what size wrenches for the locknut and tensioning bolt for the chain? It would sure save me a bunch of time when it comes time to swap out sprockets.
8mm to get the front sprocket cover off, 10mm to get the front sprocket off and 10 and 12mm for the chain adjusters. The rear axle itself is 19mm and I believe the lock nut is 22 or 23mm, it's a size I don't have so I use and adjustable. Most of this will have been included in the tool kit, except of course the sockets.
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:52 PM   #608
G19Tony
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Location: KLAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdmove View Post
might i ask what you owners are paying for this motorcycle out the door? They will certainly be more where i live, and the only honda dealer on the island is 125 miles away. I am thinking of this bike along with the yamaha xt250 and tw200, and i see that suzuki is making the dr200 again also.
$4499
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:29 PM   #609
SugarDust
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Firestone, Colorado
Oddometer: 862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wargasm View Post
8mm to get the front sprocket cover off, 10mm to get the front sprocket off and 10 and 12mm for the chain adjusters. The rear axle itself is 19mm and I believe the lock nut is 22 or 23mm, it's a size I don't have so I use and adjustable. Most of this will have been included in the tool kit, except of course the sockets.
Rear axle is 24/19 mm
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:45 PM   #610
MartiniUp
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I'm not blessed with a whole lot of metric tools, so I'm gonna have to buy/borrow the correct ones for the front sprocket change. Can anyone tell me what size socket the axle nut takes and also what size wrenches for the locknut and tensioning bolt for the chain? It would sure save me a bunch of time when it comes time to swap out sprockets.
Remove the axle adjuster bolts from the swingarm and give them a good coat of antisieze. Do it now, rather than later or you will pay the price.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:53 PM   #611
Harcomo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarDust View Post
Rear axle is 24/19 mm
I came up with all the sockets/wrenches except for the rear axle nut. Went to the parts store.....they didn't have a 23mm socket but had the 24mm. I brought it home and the 24mm seemed really sloppy on the nut......so I decided it must be a 23 mm. Took it back and ordered the 23mm.....it will be in tomorrow....hmmmm. I may be looking for another 24mm socket now!
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Old 10-22-2012, 06:43 PM   #612
SugarDust
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Firestone, Colorado
Oddometer: 862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I came up with all the sockets/wrenches except for the rear axle nut. Went to the parts store.....they didn't have a 23mm socket but had the 24mm. I brought it home and the 24mm seemed really sloppy on the nut......so I decided it must be a 23 mm. Took it back and ordered the 23mm.....it will be in tomorrow....hmmmm. I may be looking for another 24mm socket now!
My Craftsman 24mm fits right...I've used it changing the front and rear sprocket as well as putting new shoes on my baby...
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SugarDust screwed with this post 10-22-2012 at 06:50 PM
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:10 PM   #613
Downstater
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Location: Eastern PA
Oddometer: 70
Drc tail light install...

Fellow CRFL owners...

I don't know about you but the one thing I really hated on this bike (and most bikes for that matter) was the ridiculously huge and fugly rear tailight and plate holder assembly. I had to do something about it, so I finally got around to installing the DRC edge2 smoked tailight assembly. This one is actually for the KLX250s because they do not yet have one for our bike and probably wont for a year since they are in Japan...

This was not a plug and play install. If you are not mechanically inclined I would highly suggest against trying this install. As a young kid I worked as a metal fabricator, electrician, etc... so this was right up my alley.

... I started by removing all the old crap and then figured out where to drill the new holes in the DRC unit so that everything lined up nicely witht he stock rear fender. I wanted it to look as stock as possible, almost like honda put it there themselves.



The above shot gives a good idea of where it lined up best for the finished product.

Next I had to buy longer m8 and m6 bolts and then played with washers to angle the plate so that it tucked up tightly under the rear fender.

After a lot of trial and error, I liked the position and then moved on to wiring. The below picture shows the wiring and the washers used to shim the plate to that it sit perfectly under the fender. If you decide to do this I would highly suggest soldering and heatshrinking the connections, and DO NOT cut into the bikes main harness!!!! only cut into the small sub harness that is connected to the tailight. If you want to go back to stock it is a simple procedure.



After that it is a matter of cleaning up the wiring and then closing in the gaping hole left in the fender liner.

For this I used a sheet of .060" black kydex. When heated, kydex becomes extremely pliable and was perfect for making a covering plate. It almost looks stock from a distance. Note: I did trim a little bit of the fender plastic that stuck out jaggedly on the corners to make the kydex cover plate easier to form and less complex.



Sorry for the crappy pics but I am no photographer. just trying to show yall that it is possible and how I did it.

The rest is just screwing the kydex plate to the fender liner and to the DRC taillight. I also used 3m double sided foam tape to seal it all from water penetration. I also used a strip of .5"x.5" foam door insulation to seal inbetween the fender and the top of the DRC tail light. It will be very hard for water to get into the fender now.

The finished product...



I think it came out pretty well.

Side note: I would highly suggest this DRC tailight as apposed to some of the others on the market. It is a bit more expensive but WAAAAYYYY better quality that acerbis, polini, etc... I have tried them all on past bikes and they are all junk and fall apart quickly. These are available from wheeling cycle supply in WV.
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:15 PM   #614
EEKAMOUSE
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Second that drc kit is awsome used on Wr250r and now crf250l good quality stuff I can only add that if ya go to led front blinkers too like I did your gonna need resistors to make signals work
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:19 PM   #615
joec63 OP
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Location: Olmsted Twnshp, OH
Oddometer: 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Downstater View Post
Fellow CRFL owners...

I don't know about you but the one thing I really hated on this bike (and most bikes for that matter) was the ridiculously huge and fugly rear tailight and plate holder assembly. I had to do something about it, so I finally got around to installing the DRC edge2 smoked tailight assembly. This one is actually for the KLX250s because they do not yet have one for our bike and probably wont for a year since they are in Japan...

This was not a plug and play install. If you are not mechanically inclined I would highly suggest against trying this install. As a young kid I worked as a metal fabricator, electrician, etc... so this was right up my alley.

... I started by removing all the old crap and then figured out where to drill the new holes in the DRC unit so that everything lined up nicely witht he stock rear fender. I wanted it to look as stock as possible, almost like honda put it there themselves.



The above shot gives a good idea of where it lined up best for the finished product.

Next I had to buy longer m8 and m6 bolts and then played with washers to angle the plate so that it tucked up tightly under the rear fender.

After a lot of trial and error, I liked the position and then moved on to wiring. The below picture shows the wiring and the washers used to shim the plate to that it sit perfectly under the fender. If you decide to do this I would highly suggest soldering and heatshrinking the connections, and DO NOT cut into the bikes main harness!!!! only cut into the small sub harness that is connected to the tailight. If you want to go back to stock it is a simple procedure.



After that it is a matter of cleaning up the wiring and then closing in the gaping hole left in the fender liner.

For this I used a sheet of .060" black kydex. When heated, kydex becomes extremely pliable and was perfect for making a covering plate. It almost looks stock from a distance. Note: I did trim a little bit of the fender plastic that stuck out jaggedly on the corners to make the kydex cover plate easier to form and less complex.



Sorry for the crappy pics but I am no photographer. just trying to show yall that it is possible and how I did it.

The rest is just screwing the kydex plate to the fender liner and to the DRC taillight. I also used 3m double sided foam tape to seal it all from water penetration. I also used a strip of .5"x.5" foam door insulation to seal inbetween the fender and the top of the DRC tail light. It will be very hard for water to get into the fender now.

The finished product...



I think it came out pretty well.

Side note: I would highly suggest this DRC tailight as apposed to some of the others on the market. It is a bit more expensive but WAAAAYYYY better quality that acerbis, polini, etc... I have tried them all on past bikes and they are all junk and fall apart quickly. These are available from wheeling cycle supply in WV.

Nice job, thanks for the write up. Looks sleek!
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