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Old 11-14-2013, 12:34 PM   #6691
ivel_86
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Big bore kit with many extra goodies was to be shipped today!!!
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Old 11-14-2013, 08:22 PM   #6692
Weevrider
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Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
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TCI Windshield

ScootToots,

How high is your windshield, say from the top of the headlight glass to the top?

I am looking for a windshield to help with rain and cold winds for riding this winter but don't want it too tall for trail riding here on the Island.

It it noisy compared to not having it on and where do you feel the wind starts on your body when riding? ie upper chest, neck, helmet etc. I am 6 ft high.

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:45 PM   #6693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weevrider View Post
ScootToots,

How high is your windshield, say from the top of the headlight glass to the top?

I am looking for a windshield to help with rain and cold winds for riding this winter but don't want it too tall for trail riding here on the Island.

It it noisy compared to not having it on and where do you feel the wind starts on your body when riding? ie upper chest, neck, helmet etc. I am 6 ft high.

Thanks
Andrew
Hey Andrew,

I haven't got it attached right now, but it isn't as high as it might look. As I recall, it is just slightly higher than the mirrors. To me, it's just about perfect. It eliminates wind on the torso. You feel the wind on the head but I get no buffeting. It makes highway miles so much more comfortable.

I have decided to use it only if I am doing a longer highway trip though. I leave the brackets installed. They act as a bit of a protection for the front housing area. It takes about 2 minutes to attach if needed.

Trail riding with it? I had to get a replacement plastic because I left it on, on trails. That wasn't a good idea. I was on a steep, very loose climb, and lost control. The windsheild hit a tree trunk. I was moving very slowly, but it broke into 8 pieces nevertheless. Lesson learned. So though it doesn't interfere with leaning over the bars, it's just not a good idea to ride trails with a screen on.

I really like it for longer trips with FSR's thrown in, but not at all for gnarly trails where you don't know what you'll encounter next.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:35 PM   #6694
Weevrider
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Location: Vancouver Island, B.C.
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TCI Windscreen

Thanks John,
I do tend to ride a few FSRs and some highways to get out and about so this windshield should work for me for now. Before my CRF250L, I had a TW200 and had a Spitfire windshield on it. It provided great protection from the wind and rain but was too big for off road.
I don't get into too much single track stuff yet. My background includes mostly Goldwing long distance style riding so dirt is new to me. I love my Oxford heated grips though as it gets cold up in the mountains.
Take care and thanks for the info
Andrew
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Old 11-15-2013, 02:01 PM   #6695
ScootToots
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Is it wise to remove the snorkel?

I chose to leave the air box snorkel in place after installing the EJK Controller. On examining it, it appears to be designed to reduce air turbulence. Being a larger diameter than the throttle body, no matter how hard the vacuum pulls air, the snorkel will deliver more than asked for, and it will deliver the air smoothly, ensuring it is 100% available, and not caught up in turbulent eddies.

I was attempting to confirm or disprove that hypothesis, when I cam across this: Resonant Airboxes: Theory & Applications.

it is a worthwhile read.
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Old 11-15-2013, 02:47 PM   #6696
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Old 11-15-2013, 04:48 PM   #6697
strongbad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScootToots View Post
...I was attempting to confirm or disprove that hypothesis, when I cam across this: Resonant Airboxes: Theory & Applications...
thanks for the link.
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:59 AM   #6698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScootToots View Post
I chose to leave the air box snorkel in place after installing the EJK Controller. On examining it, it appears to be designed to reduce air turbulence. Being a larger diameter than the throttle body, no matter how hard the vacuum pulls air, the snorkel will deliver more than asked for, and it will deliver the air smoothly, ensuring it is 100% available, and not caught up in turbulent eddies.

I was attempting to confirm or disprove that hypothesis, when I cam across this: Resonant Airboxes: Theory & Applications.

it is a worthwhile read.
It should also be noted that the snorkel will flow air more smoothly than the hole in the air box when the snorkel is removed. Such a hole is called a "sharp edged orifice", and almost always flows less air than the smooth snorkel. "Smooth" flowing air is always quieter than turbulent air that is produced by a sharp edged orifice. And...for a given cross section a snorkel will flow more air than a sharp edged orifice. I cut off some of the inner portion of the snorkel on my CRF...I think it flows a little more...but is noisier.
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:31 PM   #6699
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Location: Los Angeles
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Hey guys, I'm selling!

If anyone has wanted a tricked out CRF, this is the bike for you. I'm in no hurry, but am ready to start to put together another build. I'm asking 5k Tons of upgrades.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...6#post22726046
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:42 PM   #6700
Cfk
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Stretched chain...?

Hi all
Recently I have taken lrp for first long trip,290 km 50/50 road/dirt,and have had a blast,bike took it no problems.
I have noticed that my chain has a massive slack,60 mm under swing arm.
I run 13 t sprocket installed by honda. Bike has done 600km in total.
Chain adjustment line is borderline on red,do I need a new chain? Would be possible that new chain would stretch so much? Or can I adjust on to red and that is steel acceptable.
It might be basic knowledge for some... I'm just getting into motorbike riding,so any help will be appreciated.
Reading forum for second time now...page 266,so much to learn.
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:05 PM   #6701
schmittx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydpb View Post
Managed to get a set of the Wolfman sideracks before they are extinct!

As expected they fitted perfectly and I managed to keep my nomadic rack as well - just needed 2 longer bolts and a smaller spacer on one side, def a result as I was expecting to have to sell the rack as it wouldnt fit with the side racks.

I bought a set of the expedition dry side bags (which wont be used 'til next year now, and also a set of the small hoop bags for everyday use, these are pictured below.
Lloyd.

Looking good!...what skid plate have you got on there?...I really like the looks/coverage of it


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Old 11-17-2013, 04:40 PM   #6702
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cfk View Post
Hi all
Recently I have taken lrp for first long trip,290 km 50/50 road/dirt,and have had a blast,bike took it no problems.
I have noticed that my chain has a massive slack,60 mm under swing arm.
I run 13 t sprocket installed by honda. Bike has done 600km in total.
Chain adjustment line is borderline on red,do I need a new chain? Would be possible that new chain would stretch so much? Or can I adjust on to red and that is steel acceptable.
It might be basic knowledge for some... I'm just getting into motorbike riding,so any help will be appreciated.
Reading forum for second time now...page 266,so much to learn.
I have 2500mi on mine and just switched to a 13t front, I'm way past the beginning of the red on the rear axle markings to get the tension right, loose is better than tight, but since we are running 'non-standard' sprockets the markings on the rear axle are off. I'm probably going back to the 14t on mine, I don't do that much offroad and it's killing my gas mileage running the 13t, but if I was keeping it I would remove a link. I doubt you've worn out the chain/sprockets yet with that few miles. If your sprockets teeth aren't leaning just adjust the tension, just don't get it too tight, that will make things wear super fast. I know this from experience.....
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:57 PM   #6703
SAPB
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Location: Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cfk View Post
Hi all
Recently I have taken lrp for first long trip,290 km 50/50 road/dirt,and have had a blast,bike took it no problems.
I have noticed that my chain has a massive slack,60 mm under swing arm.
I run 13 t sprocket installed by honda. Bike has done 600km in total.
Chain adjustment line is borderline on red,do I need a new chain? Would be possible that new chain would stretch so much? Or can I adjust on to red and that is steel acceptable.
It might be basic knowledge for some... I'm just getting into motorbike riding,so any help will be appreciated.
Reading forum for second time now...page 266,so much to learn.
I've got the 13t swap, but did it myself. Me, I would check if axle nut, and chain adjust stuff is not loose. If not, just follow owner's manual. Not sure what "red" is. Be careful to notice if the smaller of the chain adjust nuts moves as you loosen the large one, and also, if the small one moves as you sock down the large one. Do each side the same. Axle nut 65 ft/lb (or just tight, if you don't have a torque wrench). The rubber thing on the top of the swing arm keeps the chain from rubbing. The chain slack will be different if you are on the bike. I believe the OM says adjust is on side stand. You are way more likely to do it properly than the dealer. Don't make the chain too tight, you will toast the output shaft bearing. Good luck!
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SAPB screwed with this post 11-17-2013 at 05:04 PM
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:59 PM   #6704
JGPAGE2
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Location: ELGIN, TX....A LONG RIDE TO MOTORCYCLE HEAVEN
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just an update

I have not posted in some time and just wanted to update every one on the awesome crf250l my wife and I just took a 1300 mile ride to BigBend National park 2up with camping gear. the LRP worked amazingly i have just ordered my 3rd new rear tire at 8000 miles. The roads in big bend are really hard on tires. since i bought my new crf in July it has been nothing but fun. I did have to take it into Honda to have the muffler replaced as it cracked from vibration and both of the cams had defects in them(pitting or small holes in the metal most noticeable at the lobes oh well) Honda paid for it so now better than new. I will keep yal posted.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:35 PM   #6705
Cfk
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Location: Melbourne Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky62 View Post
I have 2500mi on mine and just switched to a 13t front, I'm way past the beginning of the red on the rear axle markings to get the tension right, loose is better than tight, but since we are running 'non-standard' sprockets the markings on the rear axle are off. I'm probably going back to the 14t on mine, I don't do that much offroad and it's killing my gas mileage running the 13t, but if I was keeping it I would remove a link. I doubt you've worn out the chain/sprockets yet with that few miles. If your sprockets teeth aren't leaning just adjust the tension, just don't get it too tight, that will make things wear super fast. I know this from experience.....

I've got the 13t swap, but did it myself. Me, I would check if axle nut, and chain adjust stuff is not loose. If not, just follow owner's manual. Not sure what "red" is. Be careful to notice if the smaller of the chain adjust nuts moves as you loosen the large one, and also, if the small one moves as you sock down the large one. Do each side the same. Axle nut 65 ft/lb (or just tight, if you don't have a torque wrench). The rubber thing on the top of the swing arm keeps the chain from rubbing. The chain slack will be different if you are on the bike. I believe the OM says adjust is on side stand. You are way more likely to do it properly than the dealer. Don't make the chain too tight, you will toast the output shaft bearing. Good luck!


Thanx for reply.
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