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Old 10-30-2012, 09:01 AM   #706
dsn11487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarDust View Post
I don't think it matters for mostly dirt riding - I'ves used Knobbie/trials combinations before. However I put on a set of Dunlop 606s on my CRF - they are great. - One thing you should consider is putting heavy duty tubes in there as well.
I second the 606's. Awesome off road tire. Had them on my CRF and KLR
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:38 AM   #707
ramz
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Quote:
Where online can I purchase shorter replacement bolts for the seat and rear fender? I'm looking for stainless round head allen bolts for both the seat and the fender if there is such a thing out there. I saw the ones on Ramz's website and I'm looking for 4 bolts like he's used on the fender provided they are stainless. Is there some that are made for another bike that will fit the Honda? I believe they are 8mm?
You can buy the bolts at your local hardware store. Look for M8x1.25 25mm stainless-steel round head allen bolts.


I changed the wording on the Long bolts panel on the mods page to say:

I used two stainless-steel round head allen bolts for the fender bolts. They look nicely recessed, and I don't anticipate having to remove the bolts in the field. I bought the bolts at the local TrueValue hardware store: M8x1.25 25mm.
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:51 PM   #708
Harcomo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramz View Post
You can buy the bolts at your local hardware store. Look for M8x1.25 25mm stainless-steel round head allen bolts.

Thanks Ramz! That's just the info I was looking for! Just placed and order for them from Drillspot as the hardware stores in my town don't carry them. That's a good idea to change the info on your website as I'm sure it will help other's in the future.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:01 PM   #709
Harcomo
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AXP/Moose skid plates

I just got an email from Moose Racing about the availability of the AXP/Moose Pro Skid Plate. Here's what it said.......

"It will be available soon...hopefully we will have stock by the end of November."

That's good news for those wanting an AXP polyethylene skid plate here in the U.S.A.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:18 PM   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post
I just got an email from Moose Racing about the availability of the AXP/Moose Pro Skid Plate. Here's what it said.......

"It will be available soon...hopefully we will have stock by the end of November."

That's good news for those wanting an AXP polyethylene skid plate here in the U.S.A.
Good to hear, thanks for the heads up.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:08 PM   #711
jglow
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Getting the wife's bike battle ready with some hand guards, and a skidplate. I am also adding some creature comforts like dirt bags racks, 12v outlet, heated grips, and hooking up the hardwire for her electric vest. I took some pics along the way...


I robbed the Eastern Beaver 3cs circuit solution off of the wife's old KLX250s. It's a clean way to hook up electrics to the bike, and I found a nice empty spot under the tail plastic to put it all.



The Eastern Beaver 3cs is set up to have 1 circuit that is always on and 2 that are switched (only powered when the key is on). I use the switched for the grips and the vest and the circuit that is always powered goes to the 12v outlet so we can charge things when the bike is off.

Overhead shot of the dash:



I mounted to handguards to the triple clamp front mount.



and the finished product...





jordan
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:34 PM   #712
SugarDust
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jglow View Post
Getting the wife's bike battle ready with some hand guards, and a skidplate. I am also adding some creature comforts like dirt bags racks, 12v outlet, heated grips, and hooking up the hardwire for her electric vest. I took some pics along the way...


I robbed the Eastern Beaver 3cs circuit solution off of the wife's old KLX250s. It's a clean way to hook up electrics to the bike, and I found a nice empty spot under the tail plastic to put it all.



The Eastern Beaver 3cs is set up to have 1 circuit that is always on and 2 that are switched (only powered when the key is on). I use the switched for the grips and the vest and the circuit that is always powered goes to the 12v outlet so we can charge things when the bike is off.

jordan
Nice, I used to have a KLX250s - I sold it to get my CRFL - What heated grips are you using?
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:55 PM   #713
'Flagger
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Shock update

After receiving some suggestions from the boys over in the 'Adventure in Ohio' thread in Regionals (thanks, boyz!), I pieced together a spring compressor for two exhaust flanges and some threaded rod.



Compressed the spring far enough to expose the lock nut buried under the spring seat and bump stop.



Then got it apart! Took a little bit of a soak in WD-40 to loosen things up ... but it's done.



Measurements taken so far:

Shock length (eye2eye, uncompressed): 15 9/16"

Travel to bump stop: 2 3/32"
Travel to hard stop: 3 3/16" (The hard stop is the lock nut.)

Spring free length: 9 13/16"
Spring diameter: 3"
Wire diameter: 0.475" (didn't scrape the paint off, however, so this is a little high)

What else should I do while I have this apart? Anything you guys want to know?

Ideally I'd find a stiffer spring before I put it back together. Any shops you can recommend for custom spring?
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:38 PM   #714
MrFurious
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Ok, given that data and using the formula here, it appears the stock spring rate should be right around 744 ibf/in (pound force per inch). To me that seems a little high as I know for a fact the stock spring on my Yamaha Road Star was a 720 spring. hmm

Using a calculator on another site (here), I get a rate result of just over 400.
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MrFurious screwed with this post 10-30-2012 at 07:46 PM
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:39 PM   #715
jglow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarDust View Post
Nice, I used to have a KLX250s - I sold it to get my CRFL - What heated grips are you using?

We used the Symtec Grip Heaters that i got here: http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/mo...ips/16025.html

I've used these on several of our other bikes and they have been awesome.

I also replace the stock grips with the Pro Grip 714 - super comfy


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Old 10-30-2012, 09:00 PM   #716
gaw777
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Long time reader, first time poster on here.
Purchased my CRF250L about 2 weeks ago. Did 120 mile of trial riding over the weekend, what a ton of fun!
Questions:
I know some have switched the front sprocket to a 13T.
How easy was it?
Can keep the stock chain, correct?
What kind of difference did it make?
Anyone calculate the speedo difference with the 13T?
Not looking to change the rear at this point.

Thanks for all the great information
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:08 PM   #717
727driver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaw777 View Post
Long time reader, first time poster on here.
Purchased my CRF250L about 2 weeks ago. Did 120 mile of trial riding over the weekend, what a ton of fun!
Questions:
I know some have switched the front sprocket to a 13T.
How easy was it?
Can keep the stock chain, correct?
What kind of difference did it make?
Anyone calculate the speedo difference with the 13T?
Not looking to change the rear at this point.

Thanks for all the great information
Very easy to do. Should take no more than 15 min if you take your time. Keep stock chain, move the rear wheel back to re-tension the chain correctly and you are done. I used the 12oclock labs SpeedoDRD to fix the speedometer and the correction factor ended up being -10.3% on my bike. In other words, if you do not correct your speedo, it will be over reading by around 10% The 13t front is great and is the way the bike should have been delivered from the factory IMO. Good luck!
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:53 PM   #718
StupidDogCoffee
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How does the 13t perform on the road, particularly at highway speeds?
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:17 PM   #719
Kevinsterner
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Horsehoe Dam to Sheeps Bridge the hard way

Ok I have tried to post these before but I didn't know how to have them show up until I created a Flickr account.

This was a little trip I took about a month ago. It was supposed to be a short little ride to Horseshoe Dam and back. it turned out to be about 120 miles and 5 hours. I have seen other posts with people running this route, but I did it backwards. This made getting up to Sheeps Bridge a bitch. I went to Horseshoe Dam up to Sheeps Bridge on to fire road 24 and back to Cave Creek.














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Old 10-30-2012, 10:18 PM   #720
itrack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Flagger View Post
After receiving some suggestions from the boys over in the 'Adventure in Ohio' thread in Regionals (thanks, boyz!), I pieced together a spring compressor for two exhaust flanges and some threaded rod.



Compressed the spring far enough to expose the lock nut buried under the spring seat and bump stop.



Then got it apart! Took a little bit of a soak in WD-40 to loosen things up ... but it's done.



Measurements taken so far:

Shock length (eye2eye, uncompressed): 15 9/16"

Travel to bump stop: 2 3/32"
Travel to hard stop: 3 3/16" (The hard stop is the lock nut.)

Spring free length: 9 13/16"
Spring diameter: 3"
Wire diameter: 0.475" (didn't scrape the paint off, however, so this is a little high)

What else should I do while I have this apart? Anything you guys want to know?

Ideally I'd find a stiffer spring before I put it back together. Any shops you can recommend for custom spring?
Yes can you measure both mounting ends, width OD, width ID, and hole sizes, I think we can retro fit CR250 double adjustable shocks if the measurments are close.
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