The CRF250L Owners thread

[Wargasm]

Originally Posted by Downstater

An aftermarket exhaust and power commander programmer (both available soon) will uncork this bike nicely and make popping the front up easy... Although mine already does without the aforementioned parts. Another thing you might want to look into is a 13 sprocket up front.

I'll have to look into the 13 tooths sprocket. The bike has enough torque to pop wheelies to be sure, but when bombing down a fire road at 50-60km/h in third in about the middle of the rev range it just doesn;t have that snap to pop the fron t up when hitting a big water hole. As far as the breaks go I find them pretty good, can definitely lok up the rear and it's pretty progressive and the front has enough bite to pull endos easily enough. Maybe I'm just too used to old bikes and crap brakes. any word when TCI will hae those racks available?

[SugarDust]

Originally Posted by ramz

In my description, I use a box end wrench to loosen the nut and an allen key to keep the head from moving. The force required to loosen the nut is very great - I had to use a 3ft pipe extension on the box end wrench. And for two of the bolts, the bolt heads twisted right out of the stationary allen key.

I think they overtightened the nuts.

If I could have gotten an air gun/socket onto the nuts, it would have been easy-peasy - no-go, the spokes are in the way.

Anyway, I tightened the nuts to the correct torque and they loosen just fine, now.

http://rickramsey.net/CRF250Lmods.htm#gearing
.

I wonder if first applying heat to the sprocket nuts would help...probably not a good idea


Final Update

I installed the 13T front with no difficulty. In the rear 5 of the 6 nuts came loose without difficulty, of course there's always that one - heated it up didn't help - rounded the hex side even after trying to heat it - Took it to the local shop and they had it out for me pretty quick. Picked up a replacement sprocket bolt and just waiting for the replacement rear sprocket from sprocket center. (put it back together so I could ride it in the meantime.) - Sprocket Center was true to their word - got it Saturday!

[fastdadio]

Originally Posted by SugarDust

I wonder if first applying heat to the sprocket nuts would help...probably not a good idea

Alot of sprocket and brake rotor nuts are assembled with thread locker. This is a good thing. Feel free to heat them up to break them loose. Go easy here, don't heat them cherry red. Just passing the torch over the nut a few times is usually all it takes to soften it up.

[TNC]

Originally Posted by fastdadio

Alot of sprocket and brake rotor nuts are assembled with thread locker. This is a good thing. Feel free to heat them up to break them loose. Go easy here, don't heat them cherry red. Just passing the torch over the nut a few times is usually all it takes to soften it up.

True. Some assemblers at the factory often go nuts with the threadlocker on their nuts. A little heat carefully applied to some of these locations usually works. Some areas aren't conducive to this method, as they're too close to o-rings and other sensitive components. The sprocket bolt location looks plenty far enough away to be safe for the application of a little propane torch heat, though for total insurance I'd slip the chain off the sprocket and lay it over to the side.

[SugarDust]

Looks like I got a rear sprocket that won't fit - I ordered the 10320-42 from sprocket center - the invoice says that - they sent me the JT sprockets JTR210 -42 - the bolt holes are smaller and also beveled. I called the Sprocket Center and it seems that the supplier that made the XR650L rear sprockets had been no longer making them for a while, so what they have been doing is having the sprocket I received machined to fit. They will machine one appropriately and will have another one out to me by Saturday.

[Carmwes]

How I have mine set up so far. Have about 500 Miles on it.

[bungie4]

Originally Posted by Carmwes

How I have mine set up so far. Have about 500 Miles on it.

Nice, what luggage is that and what have you done for support for it?

[Carmwes]

Thanks. Excuse the small pic? My first attempt. OK, the Luggage is Chase Harper "B" Bag. It has fit alot of my past Bikes. Attaches with 3 straps. Easy on and off. Expands with Gear. Very Stable.

[joec63]

Originally Posted by Balkan Boy

First of, for those who were concerned about my butt - it survived. Towards the end I had to stop every hour to get the blood flowing, but I certainly had worse experiences riding in busses. It was 99% asphalt and 10km road-construction-gravel and those 10km were the best.

Thoughts about the bike:

- It's a better bike then my Kawasaki Versys. Apples and oranges, but still a better apple overall.
- No vibrations at all. Position on the bike is comfortable for my 190cm (6'2'') frame. Not much to hold on to when standing on the pegs, though.
- Best gearbox on any type of vehicle I ever used.
- Engine pulls predictably in every gear. I had about 10kg of luggage + 90kg of myself and best I got out of it was 120km/h.
- Brakes are non existent. It's my first bike of this kind, but stopping power is really poor.
- Fuel consumption: around 3l/100km. From full to flashing reserve it will do around 200km on full throttle. Then it will take 5.5-6l and do it again.
- Those two parallel bars in the tank are a nuisance.


Is there a .pdf of service manual yet? Preferably free.
Can anyone copy the valve clearance tolerances? Might as well see what's inside of the bike.

Per the Service Manual

Valve Clearance
Index line IN - 0.16 +/- 0.03 mm (0.006 +/- 0.001 in)
Index Line EX - 0.27 +/- 0.03 mm (0.011 +/- 0.001 in)

[roundtripping]

http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/Bi..._HONDA_CRF250L

[ramz]

I used an FMF PB header on my WR250R and it added performance AND reduced exhaust noise. I never got a chance to try the MB header for comparison.

I'm trying to remember what was posted comparing the two:
Belay that. I talked to FMF and here's the word:

The MB enhances low and mid and is quieter.
The PB is more mid and top and not as quiet.

The FMF muffler works with the stock CRFL header (and the FMF headers, of course). It uses an adapter to fit.

The FMF headers work with the FMF muffler only, not with the stock CRFL muffler.

The FMF muffler weighs around 5.5 pounds - a savings of a little over 6.5 pounds under the stock muffler.


Pre-orders now, shipping in 10 days or so. Allow plenty of time, they have a lot of rider and dealer orders already. Got $635 + S&H ???

No FMF fuel programmer yet, but they will be working with Bazzaz and plan something soon.

[sect8dr]

Just wondering if anyone has found a skid plate for them in the states yet, and if there is a conversion for the airbox to get rid of that paper filter? Any info would be great as i am positive i will be coming home with one in the morning.

[SugarDust]

Originally Posted by roundtripping

http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/Bi..._HONDA_CRF250L

Sweet!!

Originally Posted by ramz

.... Got $635 + S&H ???

Free S&H on orders over $500.00

[26.2]

Did my valve inspection at 601 miles. Tapered feeler gauges will make your life easier. Forget using bent ones meant for cars. I removed a radiator hose to get the valve cover out. The intake valves checked out on the high side, but one exhaust valve is a tight .010 thousandths. I buttoned it up and will inspect and adjust around 4K. Will order some metric feeler gauges and a digital caliper from Amazon to do it right.

[joec63]

I can attest to the crash worthiness, the stock tires and not meant for agressive riding, and going down is as I remembered