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Old 09-07-2012, 07:20 PM   #46
sevenpointsixtwo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abenteuerfahrer View Post
By the way since you were medically treated in NS(Canada) and they have universal health care for all. Mind, telling us how much did it personnally cost you..which of course will be reimbursed by your US insurance!

cheers...
The Canadian health care system ensures full coverage... for all Canadian citizens. However, being an American citizen, I was not entitled to this coverage, and was charged $725 CAD for the privilege. I've submitted the paperwork and ER reports to my US insurance and will hopefully be fully reimbursed, minus of course the ER copay.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:31 PM   #47
Klay
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Thanks for the great ride report...it's got me dreaming about Newfoundland.
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:26 AM   #48
sevenpointsixtwo
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Day 15: Farmington, ME to Quincy, MA

Like Mark, at this point I really just wanted to get home, but I didn't want to resort to too many slab-miles to do it. After a delicious breakfast (I had the Reuben Scrambled Egg Pileup), we split off in Conway, NH and I headed south on Rt. 153, a twisty, scenic, but slow road that winds its way down the border with Maine. As I got deeper and deeper into southern NH and MA, the holiday weekend traffic got worse and worse; welcome back to the US!

Booking it on 93S felt like nothing after the headwinds of New Brunswick, and I was able to fly home in good time. Nothing like some superslab to nicely bookend the trip.

Here's the 'Z, home again:


I had a lot to take care of, being back in the world: AAA reimbursement, medical insurance reimbursement, replacement plates from the DMV, school starting again the next week, and I discovered that my car had been hit'n'run in my absence. All too tempting to hop back on the bike and put all that behind!

Including my transit on day -2, I put my total milage tally a little above 4000 for the entire trip. Not bad for a little dirtbike! We certainly made an adventure out of this trip, intentionally or not, and it will stick with me for a long time. I wholeheartedly agree with everyone who says that far northeastern Canada has a strong draw. See you soon, Newfoundland and Labrador!
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:28 AM   #49
markbvt OP
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Afterword

Yes, this was my third Labrador/Newfoundland trip, though each trip was distinctly different. The first offered the most fun on the Trans-Lab itself -- the combination of lightly-loaded dual-sport bike, good road conditions, and the sense of discovery made for a Labrador experience that was unforgettable. Unfortunately, Newfoundland was badly underrepresented on that trip.

On the second trip, the Labrador portion wasn't nearly as much fun due to much sketchier road conditions and a bike that wasn't anywhere near as good at handling them. But I saw a little more of Newfoundland. But then that trip ended on a very unfortunate note.

And then there's this trip. Third time's the charm. I had a great time in Labrador, and Newfoundland was amazing. The dull transit portions on Highway 1 fade in comparison with the wonders of Gros Morne, Twillingate, and the Avalon Peninsula. And though there were once again stitches involved (though not on me, for once), they were much less serious than last time!

The Tiger was an awesome bike for this trip. It worked really well on the gravel of the Trans-Lab, and the only serious pucker moment I had was in that sandy section 20 or 30 miles before Red Bay. For that I might have chosen a more aggressive rear tire, but overall the Full Bore rear and IRC front tires were terrific.

I'm really happy with the bike setup too (finally, after going back and forth with setups on previous trips/bikes). The Wolfman panniers on Givi racks work great and are easy to get into and out of, and the Twisted Throttle DrySpec tail luggage is a perfect complement.

And despite David's initial worries, his DR-Z completed the trip like a champ. It used up a few quarts of oil en route, but that just meant he didn't need to do a mid-trip oil change.

Best of all, we met some terrific people on this trip, and David and I got along great the entire time.

And thank you, David, for not aiming that stick a few inches lower or higher -- could have taken out your eye or your jugular!

All told, despite losing a taillight, license plate, Chewie, tent, and significant amounts of David's blood in the wilds of Canada, it was an enormously successful trip. Just what I needed, after the shape I was in at this time a year ago!

The experiences we have on these trips are priceless (and I know that on this site I'm preaching to the choir about this). More people should take the time to get away from life as usual, hit the road for a while, and see some of the more amazing parts of this world we live in. The experience opens the mind and lends a lot of perspective. I'm still feeling a bit confined and maybe a little claustrophobic being back home; I miss the wide open spaces of Labrador and Newfoundland. I'll get accustomed to the return to normal life, but meanwhile I'll definitely be thinking about the next trip!

--mark

PS: If you enjoyed this and want to read my earlier Labrador/Newfoundland ride reports, here they are.
2009 trip on an XR650L: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502224
2010 trip on a Wee-Strom: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620129
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:26 AM   #50
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Appendix A: The Bike
Comments in italics

Bike
2000 Suzuki DRZ-400E

Farkles
  • 4.X gallon IMS fuel tank, natural color
    The IMS is great, but somewhat poorly designed; gas sits in the "wings" which cover the radiators, lower than the petcock and therefore inaccessible and adding weight.
  • DRZ-E Adventure Rack
    Again, a huge thanks to Jackpiner57 who builds these racks for all his help in creating and fitting the E-model rack. It held up beautifully! It'll definitely need a respray, as the luggage has worn it quite shiny in places.
  • Tonn's Racing skidplate
    An older model, so slight modifications were necessary; I had to drill 1" holes in the wings to be able to easily access the mount bolts with a socket wrench.
  • Devol radiator guards
  • Factory Pro case savers
  • Topar Racing chain guard
  • Acerbis Rallye-knockoff barkbusters/guards
  • KTM bend Renthal Fatbar, 1" risers
    Next time, I'll go with even more rise or a taller bar; standing still felt like a chore and the bars were too far back.
  • Motobatt replacement battery
  • Trailtech Vapor speedometer/odometer unit
    Works great, except when it runs out of batteries somewhere in northern Quebec and resets the time and milage every time the bike is shut off.
  • Acerbis 35w numberplate/headlight
    Worse than useless; just something I had lying around to get the bike street-legal, but offered zero usable light in nighttime riding. Will replace.
  • Ebay-special taillight/tag bracket
    Left behind somewhere in Labrador. Will replace.
  • Ebay-special LED turn signals
  • EBC sintered brake pads
  • PivotWorks wheel bearing/collar kit

Tuning
  • FCR39 carb (stock); 50 pilot jet, 175 main jet, EMN needle (3rd clip), 100/200 pilot/main air jets, CE removed
    Ran better than it had been, and got decent milage, but still a little too rich.
  • 15/41 JT sprockets, RK O-ring chain
    Almost perfect for this type of riding, but I wound up feathering the clutch a LOT in any slow speed maneuvering. Revved out to ~4000RPM at 70+MPH, which was great for fast gravel or highway cruising. I'd recommend running 15/44 (S-model stock) for any kind of mixed riding.
  • K&N air filter
  • FMF Q exhaust
    Ironically called Q for the "Quiet" model; I found a piece of perforated core lodged in the spark arrestor, and it has probably since blown out any remaining packing. Useless.
  • Stock suspension; preload and damping maxed (shock)
    The E is sprung for a 160 lb. rider with no gear. I weigh 200 lb. plus riding gear and luggage. It sagged pretty badly, but managed to handle ok through most conditions!
  • Mobil 1 20w50 oil, K&N filter
    I started the trip with 15w40 Rotella T6 synthetic oil, and slowly replaced it with Mobil 1 20w50 moto-specific oil. I picked up some moto-specific 20w50 non-synth in Lab City as well, and alternated the two.
  • IRC TR8 Battle Rally front tire, 3.00-21
    A little chiseling by the end of the trip, but this tire wore surprisingly well and handled excellently on both loose gravel and pavement.
  • Shinko S700 rear tire, 130/80-18
    The rear was basically shot by the end of the trip, almost down to the wear bars. It held up well through the gravel, but started wearing heavily on long, fast pavement miles. Great tire for the price, and handled loose gravel admirably.
  • MSR natural rubber heavy-duty tubes
  • Dynabeads (1oz front, 2oz rear)

Kit
  • Twisted Throttle DrySpec D66 top bags
    Excellent modular waterproof system for any kind of touring. It'll see a lot of use! The opening for the D38 could be bigger; it was a challenge to get my sleeping bag in and out, but it did hold a lot of stuff. The MOLLE-style webbing could be stitched better; mine started to tear out at the strap tie-points.
  • MotoPak soft panniers
    Borrowed from Mark for this trip, and decidedly NOT waterproof. Held all my tools, spares, cooking gear, etc. well, but lost a lot of straps, buckles, and zippers en route. They've seen their last trip.
  • "Outdoor Products" lumbar pack/tank bag
    $10 from Wally-world. Works like it was made for bikes. Can't complain!
  • Blitz 2.X gallon fuel can
    Worked, but was awkwardly bungeed to the rack for the whole trip. For any future trips, I'll definitely invest in a Rotopax, which Jackpiner's racks are made to accept.
  • Coleman ATV seat cover
    Added a little comfort, but I'll definitely be investing in a Renazco if I do any more long trips on the 'Z.
  • Alaska Sheepskin natural seat pad
    Lost somewhere on Phase 3. Bye, Chewie! I like to think a wolf is making good use of it.
  • 12V outlet and USB charger
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:33 PM   #51
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Incredible report for a variety of reasons.

Mark, really great to see you doing a 4,000 miler a year after the event-that-shall-not-be-named.

7.62, props for continuing on with the trip after the headache and uncertainty that you started the trip off with. I probably would've called that first flat an omen and backed out; I'm glad you didn't.

My two favorite pictures: Mark scowling through the mosquito net, and the picture of the tent at the bottom of the cliff had me . I could almost hear Mark dropping profanity in the background.

That is a hell of a long time to be on the road together; congrats on keeping it friendly the entire time.

You are both masters of the written word, and the pictures were fantastic. Thanks again for the great read.
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:12 PM   #52
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Meat cove

My wife and I camped at meat cove just after you guys left. We heard about your "gone with the wind" episode. We were further down the western side near Cheticamp during that blow. Did you guys hike up Meat cove mountain? We picked wild blueberries for hours up there!
Nice report with Great pics!
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:54 AM   #53
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Sure beats two weeks in LA

That's an understatement. Heck of a write up, boys. Thank you both for taking the time to document this adventure so thoroughly. The dual perspectives made for an engaging read. It became quite evident that this journey was every bit as much about the spirit of adventure as it was--as sappy as it may sound--an introspective and spiritual journey. But, in this crowd, I suspect it's not a sappy thing to say at all. I haven't had a chance to take a trip like this, and with my job the way it is, asking for two weeks off is like asking for a pink slip. But, maybe that pink-slip isn't such a bad thing. The soul needs to be fed, otherwise what's the point? Weather it's at the racetrack, or just riding to work, when I'm a bike, I'm at peace. And, anyone who thinks of the race line, the tamarack, or the unpaved road as church, needs to ride and ride as often as he, or she can. And riding with like-minded souls makes that ride exponentially better. I've gotta admit, this sort of trip sounds like paradise.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:15 AM   #54
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Exellent Report! I don't think that there can ever be too many Newfoundland/Labrador Ride Reports. Its one of the last "East Coast Canadian Frontiers". I certainly enjoyed reading about your trip.

David - sorry about your "incident" in Five Islands. It was nice to see one of my fellow Nova Scotia Paramedics stitching you up. I hope that you're not left with much of a scar... If you are, well... Chicks dig scars.

Next time you guys come up this way...let me know..I'd be happy to meet up, share some libations and show you some sights.

C.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:24 AM   #55
sevenpointsixtwo
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Appendix B: The Gear

Riding Gear
  • Arai XD
    Picked up a 1st-gen XD used off another inmate in good condition for this trip. Awesome helmet, and way more comfortable than my street helmet for long rides. Besides the whistling (fixed!), it's a near-perfect helmet. Peak plus tinted shield means great visibility in bright sunlight. The only issue is slight neck strain under extreme cross-winds, as the peak scoops air and drags your head to the side.
  • S&S textile jacket
    Mostly waterproof. Comes with a rain liner, but I opted for a Frog Toggs shell instead.
  • S&S textile pants
    Mostly waterproof. Excellent on/off pants, except for the zip-off vent strip that runs from the thighs around the butt. Wound up sitting directly on a zipper for 4000 miles; very uncomfortable. Size large was too big for me anyway; supposedly they fit a 34-36 waist with 4" of velcro "take in" adjustment, but I wear a 32 and they were quite baggy.
  • Alpinestar Scout boots
    Started having buckling issues on the right lower buckle; it would just refuse to lock closed unless I really pounded at it. Otherwise, awesome. Fully waterproof and extremely comfortable.
  • Shift waterproof gloves
  • Icon superduty short gloves
    They may have seen their last adventure. I have since bought the new Icon 1000 Rimfires, but I almost like the Superduty better as a short-cuff street/on/off glove
  • Frogg Toggs rain gear
  • Oakley O-frame goggles
  • Bandana/headband
    Indispensable for keeping shaggy hair at bay underneath a helmet, and keeping dust out of my airway on Phases 2 and 3.
  • Custom ear plugs
    When your exhaust blows out all it's packing on day 1, these are the best investment ever.


Camping Gear
  • North Face Cirrus tent
    Mostly waterproof.
  • L.L. Bean 0C down sleeping bag
    Almost TOO warm. I need to start camping in October.
  • Nemo Astro air mattress
  • Ground tarp
    Read: plastic painter's drop cloth from Lowes.
  • Mess kit
    Including 12mm combination wrench
  • MSR Alpine pots, handle
  • MSR Pocket Rocket stove + fuel
  • Insulated mug
    Note to self: put this inside a roll-top bag next trip so your coffee doesn't wind up all Labradusty.
  • Microfiber towels
    About the most massively useful thing an interstellar hitchhiker can have. Various sizes and uses: showering, cleaning visor/glasses, doing dishes, sopping up massive amounts of blood. If you want to survive out here, you've got to know where your towel is.
  • CREE LED flashlight
  • Princeton Tec headlamp
  • Lighter
  • Firestarter knife
    Used about half the time to light our camp stoves when the lighters got wet.
  • Swiss army knife
  • Bug repellent
    100% deet. Nuke those bastards.
  • Mosquito head net
  • Magpul iPhone Field Case
  • Nalgene/Sigg water bottles
  • Flip flops
    Promptly melted by 100% deet bug repellent.
  • Bungees
  • Nylon straps
  • Paracord
  • Carabiners
  • Ziplock bags
  • Trash bags
  • Bog roll
    Just in case.

Clothes
  • Exofficio boxers
    Washable, quick-dry. Doubles as swimjams!
  • Briko mountain bike shorts
    With internal chamois: my attempt to mitigate monkeybutt.
  • Darn Tough socks
    The best socks on the planet. VT pride!
  • T-shirts
    Wool and quick-dry synthetic compression shirts
  • Sea to Summit long underwear
  • Icebreaker long-sleeve shirts
    Merino wool from NZ; the best camping clothes on the planet. No stank after two weeks!
  • Mountain Hardwear Offwidth softshell
  • Arcteryx fleece
    In lieu of Mark's heated gear.
  • Wool hat

Tools
  • Wrenches (8,10,12,13,14mm)
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Socket wrench and sockets
  • Axle sockets, spare cotter pin
  • Snowboard tool and misc. screwdriver bits
  • Small flathead driver
  • Vice grips
  • Pliers
  • Zip ties
  • Air gauge
  • Gorilla tape
  • Electrical tape
  • Wire
  • JB weld
  • Ultra-Black RTV
  • Loctite 242
  • Dupont teflon Chainsaver wax
  • 20w50 Engine oil
  • Spare spark plugs
  • Spare Emgo oil filter
  • Spare tubes
  • Spare jets, needle, float bowl gasket
  • Misc. washers, gaskets, nuts and bolts

Some of the spares and tools I used, some I didn't. I was glad we had a full set between the two of us, just in case. Luckily, we didn't have to change any tires or do any major roadside repairs, apart from wiring in a new brake light. Be prepared!

Etc.
  • Passport
  • AAA card
    As much good as it did me...
  • Dr. Bronner's
    Tea tree flavor. For all your alpine-lake bathing needs.
  • Deodorant
  • First aid kit
    Possibly the most important piece of kit is a well-stocked first aid kit. I was lucky to have been at a well-populated campground when my incident occurred, but had it been on Phase 3, things could have gone nastily, and quickly. The only thing I didn't have was suture needles and thread, unfortunately.
  • Cat crap lens cleaner/anti-fog
    Even so, my new visor on the XD got scratched to hell by the Labradust.
  • Sony camera
    The Jesus camera. It died on Day 3 and was resurrected by some time to dry out in my tail bag!
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:27 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by C-Stain View Post


Exellent Report! I don't think that there can ever be too many Newfoundland/Labrador Ride Reports. Its one of the last "East Coast Canadian Frontiers". I certainly enjoyed reading about your trip.

David - sorry about your "incident" in Five Islands. It was nice to see one of my fellow Nova Scotia Paramedics stitching you up. I hope that you're not left with much of a scar... If you are, well... Chicks dig scars.

Next time you guys come up this way...let me know..I'd be happy to meet up, share some libations and show you some sights.

C.
Thanks! I definitely intend to make it up that way again at some point. Drew the Paramedic did an excellent job stitching me up. A little over a week later, and it's already barely-noticeable. I'm sure I'll be left with a little souvenir, but that just adds to the "rugged" appearance.
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:21 PM   #57
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Holy crap, David's even more of a nerd than I am!

I brought... a bunch of stuff. Some synthetic t-shirts and underwear, a few pairs of wool socks, some fleece and an electric vest just in case, etc. Couldn't tell you the brand of any of it (aside from the Tourmaster electric vest). Also brought a pouch containing tools (common socket sizes, a ratchet, screwdriver handle and bits, etc) plus a breaker bar with axle nut socket and tire irons. Basic Primus gas camping stove, a military surplus mess kit, a set of nested pots of a brand I don't recall, and so on.

Camping gear was a Eureka Apex 2 tent (poor lost tent...), Mountain Hardwear 35-degree sleeping bag, Big Agnes sleeping pad, and Alite Monarch collapsible chair (packs up nice and small).

Other odds and ends such as a Surefire flashlight, Petzl headlamp, Swiss Army knife, titanium fork and spoon, Slime tire pump, and cigarette lighter/Powerlet adapter cable.

I was wearing a Scorpion EXO700 helmet, British Motorcycle Gear Adventure jacket, FirstGear Sport Tour overpants (leather but surprisingly waterproof -- these pants keep me dry underneath in all but the heaviest downpours; unfortunately they don't make them anymore), Aerostich Elkskin Roper gloves, and Sidi Discovery boots.

Camera gear is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1 with 20mm f/1.7 pancake lens and a Canon SD400 compact point&shoot for on-the-bike shots. There are also a couple of shots from my iPhone mixed in.

That's all I can think of for now.

And C-Stain, the invitation goes both ways! If you find yourself in northern Vermont, drop a line and I'd be happy to show you around.

--mark
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My ride reports: Missile silos, Labrador, twisties, and more

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Old 09-09-2012, 03:25 PM   #58
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Nice reporting. thanks for the tag-team approach.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:58 AM   #59
JohnCVermont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catamount View Post


Incredible report for a variety of reasons.

Mark, really great to see you doing a 4,000 miler a year after the event-that-shall-not-be-named.

7.62, props for continuing on with the trip after the headache and uncertainty that you started the trip off with. I probably would've called that first flat an omen and backed out; I'm glad you didn't.

My two favorite pictures: Mark scowling through the mosquito net, and the picture of the tent at the bottom of the cliff had me . I could almost hear Mark dropping profanity in the background.

That is a hell of a long time to be on the road together; congrats on keeping it friendly the entire time.

You are both masters of the written word, and the pictures were fantastic. Thanks again for the great read.
I agree with Catamount. Great RR & I love 7.62 technical details. It is getting me thinking and dreaming.
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Old 09-11-2012, 11:31 AM   #60
lakota
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Mark and David
great ride reportreally enjoyed it. brought back great memories of two years ago. Am still telling people if they want to ride through Vermont send Mark an email for a route.

Marty
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