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Old 09-07-2012, 01:36 PM   #1
akabeton OP
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New battery not charging at all.

Having solved my last carb problem ( with help from fellow inmates ) I thought I'd head out on another trip.

I only made it about 40 miles when my bike died again, checked things out and the battery ( only 5 days old ) was dead ( reading only 8.5v , after 40 miles of highway riding)

The closest repair shop was a Yamaha dealer, who kindly lent me a battery so I could limp back to his workshop.
On my return he did a quick check to try and diagnose the problem. It was obvious that the loaner battery was not receiving any charge, so I eliminated the duff ( new ) battery scenario from the equation. He suggested it may be a regulator or possibly the alternator, he did not have time to look any further.

I charged my batterry and road home :-(

What should I do now to identify and eliminate all the possible causes?

If we could start with the cheapest stuff first that would be great ;-)
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:40 PM   #2
Sniper X
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Is this on the GSPD? Charge the battery to full, start the bike, check voltage at the battery termanals and see if it is about 13.8 or so at 3K rpm. If NOT, swap out the voltage regulator first test again.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:07 PM   #3
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Cool2 Fear not, there IS help here at the ASYLUM!

At the regulator, JUMP the two wires that are the SAME color.....should be BLUE (at least, on my /5) NOT the GROUND......usually BROWN.
This will BYPASS the regulator...Measure directly across the battery terminals....SHOULD have LOTS of VOLTAGE....maybe as high as 16 0r 17 at 3,000 rpm......Do this QUICKLY. If no higher.....further troubleshooting will be required.
There is the DIODE BOARD, ROTOR, STATOR, BRUSHES, etc.
OOOOH! Almost forgot! Your CHARGE LAMP on the dash MUST LIGHT UP WHEN TH KEY IS TURNED ON! If not, no charging whatsoever.....Perhaps a BAD CHARGE BULB!
GOOD LUCK!
Other inmates are here to help.

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Old 09-07-2012, 02:38 PM   #4
ignatz72
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Cheapest fix first would be to see if your charge light on the dash is burned out... Does the charge light come on with the ignition in On position? If not, you have your culprit.

EDIT: just noticed spo snuck this in his post before me. Grrr.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:40 PM   #5
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Every time I see a bad diode board it shows signs of smoke escaping, maybe black spots around one of the diodes. Don't think this is what would be called a deffinative test but signs of smoke usually mean some thing bad.

To test the rotor you lift the brushes from the slip rings and measure the resistance across the two rings. Some where you'll find a list of what this resistance should be. It changes through the years. It is low tho, like 3 to 8 ohms I think. And if you get infinite then it's a bad rotor. While you are at this notice how well the brushes make contact. How big are they?
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Old 09-07-2012, 03:30 PM   #6
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Thumb keep at it!

On another note......
At the 3 wire connector from the OUTPUT OF THE ALTERNATOR (stator), there should be VOLTAGE at each leg to ground.....Measure this in AC......each leg should be the SAME.....IF your connector is 3 separate connectors, it does NOT matter how they get reconnected.
Perhaps SOMEONE ELSE WILL CHIME IN with the VOLTAGE spec at these outputs.
On top of the alternator is the BRUSH PACK....It has 2 connections....D- to GROUND and DF to REGUALATOR, then D+ to DIODE BOARD and CHARGE LAMP on dash. There should be NO continuity, to ground at the DF (D+) connection.
If I recall correctly, the ohms reading across the ISOLATED slip rings of the ROTOR should be aprox. 3.4 ohms to 4.8 ohms.

That is it for now.
Best wishes always,
spo
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spo123 screwed with this post 09-08-2012 at 11:33 PM
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:32 PM   #7
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Bump

To the top, please.

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Old 09-09-2012, 05:35 PM   #8
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Thanks

Thanks for input so far.

I will start tomorrow and report back my findings.


Quote:
Originally Posted by spo123 View Post
To the top, please.

spo
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:41 AM   #9
akabeton OP
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No charge light

I managed to limp home on the charge from the Yamaha dealer.

I left the battery charging for a couple of days, it is now reading 13.2v.

Turned the key on, no charge light comes on. With the bike running the battery just continues to drain. When the revs are increased there is no change at all.

Should I remove the Voltage regulator off and get it tested, before I start taking things apart?
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:50 AM   #10
ignatz72
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No, you should replace the burned out charge indicator bulb. This is why you are not charging (or at least part of the reason why).

The charge bulb is required by the charging circuit. Bad bulb = no charge.

The charge light should always come on with the ignition in the On position.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:05 PM   #11
akabeton OP
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Wiring

OK thanks ignatz72

I'm looking at the wiring diagram in Clymer, from the charging light it shows blue coming back to the regulator and a green/purple coming to an in line fuse. Should I check that first?

How accessible is the light?
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:17 PM   #12
ignatz72
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Nope, just check the bulb. If it's blown, that's your problem.

If the bulb isn't blown, THEN you will have to start tracing wires and diagrams, etc.

Simple first - check and/or replace the bulb.

If this is for a PD, the bulbs are fairly easy to get to once you remove the tank, and possibly the gauges (maybe just the tach).

The bulb should be a 194/168 if I am recalling correctly. I have the bulb specs in my LED porn thread if you hunt for it.
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ignatz72 screwed with this post 09-10-2012 at 12:46 PM
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:43 PM   #13
eepeqez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akabeton View Post
I managed to limp home on the charge from the Yamaha dealer.

I left the battery charging for a couple of days, it is now reading 13.2v.

Turned the key on, no charge light comes on. With the bike running the battery just continues to drain. When the revs are increased there is no change at all.

Should I remove the Voltage regulator off and get it tested, before I start taking things apart?
The warning lamp is a necessary part of the charge circuit. The current through it when you first start the motor is what provides the field winding current until the alternator output supplies the field winding. Once the motor is running you could remove it and the alternator continues to work fine, but without the warning lamp, the alternator never starts generating any output.
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:22 PM   #14
akabeton OP
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Nicely Accessible

This sure is a humbling exercise.

The warning light is quite hard to get to.

Tank off.
Windshield off.
Front faring off.
Tachometer removed.
Speedometer removed.

[IMG][/IMG]

Having big hands does not help either.
Now the three screws holding the warning light console are almost impossible, even with a small stubby. Any suggestions or do I have to wait for my wife to return home, she has slightly smaller hands. ;-)

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:45 PM   #15
ignatz72
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Just pull the light sockets out from the bottom of the cluster.

No need to unscrew the cluster, that would be awful.

Just be gentle as you pull the rubber sockets out, and mind which ones go where.

Tip for reinstalling the sockets: use a tiny film of dielectric grease on the rubber that slides into the cluster. This will aid insertion and keep the rubber from drying out in the cluster socket.
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