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Old 10-14-2013, 04:31 PM   #361
Hewby OP
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Smiling and full of wonder we headed back into Chile towards Torres Del Paine. The corrugations and dust started playing havoc with Alison, who was already under the weather, so we stopped in a beautiful free camp outside the park.

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Camping again on dusk outside the park, with views over Torres del Paine, and a few curious lamas to keep us company.
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Waking up to this one of the best mornings of my life.



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Hewby screwed with this post 10-14-2013 at 04:48 PM
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:39 PM   #362
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Love the pics Deb! They're making me want to get back on the road! Can't believe I missed you and Alisson Puerto Notales by a day.
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:33 PM   #363
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Love the pics Deb! They're making me want to get back on the road! Can't believe I missed you and Alisson Puerto Notales by a day.
Thanks Bryce, they are giving me the same sense too!
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:44 AM   #364
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Originally Posted by Hewby View Post







Waking up to this one of the best mornings of my life.






absolutely love it!
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Old 10-15-2013, 01:05 PM   #365
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Amazing pictures! Man, I love this report!
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:07 PM   #366
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Rock on! Thank you for the little uplift your pics gave me just before I head out for 3 months on tour in Taipei with no moto in sight for me.
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:47 PM   #367
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I could have stayed in Torres Del Paine forever. I had planned to do lots of hiking here when I had envisaged this trip, but somehow time had got away from me. We compromised and camped 2 nights in the park, doing a day walk and enjoying riding the beautiful roads. It is a place I endeavor to return to someday, both for riding and hiking.

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Coming into the park we met up briefly with Fiona and Matt two Australians on 250’s riding the Americas from the bottom up. A brief but lovely encounter, in which I forgot to get a photo until it was too late.

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The seasons were turning and my favorite time of the year, autumn was starting to greet us. And, true to form, the mushrooms of the season were also popping up ready to grace our camp dinners, which they did many a night.

I am excited as always to find a giant puffball
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Once again my luggage racks were giving me grief, and while I thought JB Weld might help, nothing but Alison’s extraordinary skills with tie downs held me together as I rode a few hundred beautiful km to Purto Natles and another welder.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:18 PM   #368
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The race was on, leaving Puerto Natales late in the afternoon after having to make a detour to get my racks welded, we rode again till dusk set in, stopping at a tiny pull off on the side of the road, taking the opportunity to hang out all our newly washed clothes….
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Onwards to Rio Grand we stopped past this awesome ship wreak and I was able to score myself some nice looking mussels to cook up for dinner.
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As we were to cross back into Argentina, we met up with the wonderful Carlos again. He was riding back from Ushuaia with another biker, Michael, whom he had met on the road, who was also riding a 650gs. They were heading on to Punta Arenas where Michael dropping off his bike which he had already managed to sell to a local. Carlos heard of my timing and shipping dilemma, and assured me he could also sell my bike, for a good price and legally. He begged me to take my time in Ushuaia and enjoy the journey and visit the penguins! Not attempting the insane trip I had before me of touching Ushuaia tonight, with crazy windy and rainy weather looking to set in, and spending the next three days racing the 3000km back to Buenos Aires that I would need to do to ship the bike before my flight. My rear tire was balding, and I was terrified I was going to kill myself on the ride north pushing it too hard. Carlos news was a godsend. I felt he had saved my life. I could hardly contain my excitement. Alison and I went through the border with giddy smiles. We were so close. We might be able to sell our bikes (taking away the last headache of what to do with them), and I actually had some time to enjoy it.
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As we rode into the rain around Rio Grande we decided with our new news, and my new found breathing space, that we could call it a day, finding some lovely lodging at the Ruta 40 B&B, where discovered many of our friends had been before us. Alison’s bike was having battery starting issues again, so after a few push starts, so we ended up rolling it into the hostel.
The lovely owner, Willie welcomed us like this was our own home, checked on the safety of my mussels for me, and as with all his guests he took some photos of us, which I have lifted off his facebook site!



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Old 10-17-2013, 08:37 PM   #369
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beautiful pix

Been reading this report for ever , you make it so exciting, thank you for taking us alone on your journey!
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:17 PM   #370
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After all this time I'm still loving your pics and enjoying your writing
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:42 PM   #371
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Originally Posted by OldTriumphRider View Post
Been reading this report for ever , you make it so exciting, thank you for taking us alone on your journey!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuateRider View Post
After all this time I'm still loving your pics and enjoying your writing
Thanks for your patience! Getting there slowly!
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:17 PM   #372
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At last we were almost at Ushuaia. The place I had dreamed of arriving. The funny little point on a map that had encompassed all that was a dream. That, despite the need to ride out of Ushuaia, signified the end of the trip; the end of the road. The accomplishment of something that many times I did not think I could do. Coming down that road, I couldn’t help but continually stop to take in all around me; to enjoy the mountains, to take photos, to savor the excitement.
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We stopped at the sign for an obligatory photo our souls singing with joy.
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We arrived in Ushuaia on International Women’s day, an unplanned, but fitting date to mark the completion of our journey. To celebrate our arrival we went out for a fancy meal celebrating our achievements. After 6 weeks of travelling together, Alison and I had skimped on eating out, instead foraged local food, cooked on our little camp stove, or cooked meals at host’s houses that had taken us in. This was indeed a treat.

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Again I had hoped to take a berth on a boat down to Antarctica, but the lateness of the season, and a promise I had made to my father five years earlier that I would be home for my mothers 60th birthday, convinced me otherwise. Instead I hold a promise to myself that I will return to this part of the world, to hike further in Patagonia, and to cruise to the icy continent of the south.

So instead we took Carlos' advice and went on a boat day trip to see penguins. Though we found out later that he wanted us to take a different one that you could walk amongst the birds, and literally almost “kick a penguin” as he so kindly but hilariously put it, as they waddled through your legs and across your path. Another day!
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Our last leg of our journey south took us to the end of the road, down to the national park south of Ushuaia.

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While the sign said 17,848km to Alaska my odometer suggested that my journey was closer to 60,000km.

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It was a beautiful place, but a little disappointing that there was no ice in the water here!
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From there we could only head north again with our trusty steeds, content with a sense of deep accomplishment.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:30 PM   #373
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Great report!
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:21 AM   #374
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Congratulation!

Thank you both of you for take us along and tank you for great RR.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:24 PM   #375
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Wow. Thanks, Hewby! That's an amazing adventure, and amazing trip report! And you're amazing too!
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